Trip Overview
When: July 2020 (peak summer season)
Duration: 5 days
Travelers: Group of 4 friends
Budget: ~3,600 RMB per person (~$520 USD) including everything
Transportation: Self-drive rental car
Why This Route?
2020 was the year of pandemic-era travel deals. When I spotted flights from Shanghai to Xining for just 1,500 RMB (down from the usual 4,200-4,500 RMB), I immediately rounded up my travel buddy. Within three days we'd booked flights and hotels—thankfully, Ctrip's one-stop booking made it seamless. The goal? Qinghai Lake (青海湖) and Zhangye's legendary Danxia landforms.
Day 1: Shanghai to Zhangye
Our evening flight landed at Gansu's Ganzhou Airport (甘州机场)—it's tiny, no jet bridges, just stairs down to the tarmac and a short walk to the arrivals hall. Our rental car was waiting, delivered directly to us. Pro tip: We scored a brand new Hyundai ix35 with just 30 kilometers on the odometer. The trunk fit all four 20-inch suitcases with room to spare.
Reality Check: Local driving habits take some getting used to. On two-lane highways, oncoming traffic frequently overtakes by drifting into your lane. Stay alert and drive defensively.
We checked into Yibis Hotel (宜必思酒店) in downtown Zhangye—255 RMB per room. The city is relatively small; by 9 PM, most shops had closed. Temperatures were a pleasant 25-33°C—warm but not oppressive.
Day 2: Matisi Temple & Zhuoer Mountain
Hotel breakfast featured a tiny but satisfying spread. The highlight? A steaming bowl of sajiao noodles (臊子面) freshly made to order.
Matisi Temple (马蹄寺): A 1.5-hour drive from Zhangye. This massive temple complex consists of seven cave temple sites spanning 70+ grottoes, originally built during the Northern Liang dynasty (北凉). The temple gets its name from a legendary hoof print left by a heavenly horse—visitors can see the actual impression preserved in the Putong Temple's Horseshoe Hall.
For southerners like us who'd never seen Buddhist grottoes, Matisi was impressive. If you've already visited Dunhuang's Mogao Caves, this might feel underwhelming—hence the mixed reviews online.
We explored three main areas: Thousand Buddha Caves (千佛洞), Thirty-Three Heaven Grottoes (三十三天石窟), and King Gesar's Hall (格萨尔王殿). The caves are dark and cramped—you'll need to hunch or crawl in places. Pro tip: Always announce yourself before entering narrow passages to avoid awkward encounters!
Lunch was at Renjia Courtyard (仁家大院) in nearby Minle County—a solid farmhouse restaurant.
Zhuoer Mountain (卓尔山): Another 3.5 hours of driving brought us to Qilian County's Zhuoer Mountain. This stunning Danxia formation is known in Tibetan as "Zongmu Maoyama" (宗穆玛釉玛), meaning "the beautiful red jade queen."
The view from the summit is breathtaking—no obstructions in any direction. Facing you is Niuxin Mountain (牛心山), which showcases all four seasons at once. To the left and right stretch Ladongxia and Baiyangou valleys, with the endless Qilian Mountains behind. At the mountain's base, the Babao River (八宝河) winds around the county like a white silk scarf.
We stayed at Tianyu Jingdu Resort (祁连天域景都度假村), 340 RMB per room—just a few hundred meters from the scenic area. That evening, we were treated to a double rainbow stretching across the sky. I've never seen a rainbow so close, so vivid—it felt reachable.
Dinner in Babao Town (八宝镇) was lively, with plenty of dinner and late-night options. The sun sets around 9 PM, so expect late dinners and long days.
Day 3: Qinghai Lake
Departing early from Qilian, we faced 400 kilometers of driving—essentially a full day in the car. Just 20 kilometers out, we hit 80 kilometers of road construction on National Highway 213. Mountain roads, potholes, and a bumpy ride that was more thrilling than any roller coaster.
Foreigner Tip: This road was still under construction as of 2020. Check current conditions before your trip.
After 4.5 hours, we reached Gangcha County (刚察县), on Qinghai Lake's northern shore. Lunch was at Gesang Tibetan Restaurant (格桑藏餐吧)—authentic Tibetan fare. Pro tip: Don't touch the thermos on your table unless you've ordered酥油茶 (buttered tea); each pot belongs to a specific table.
Qinghai Lake (青海湖): China's largest inland lake,藏语 called "Cewenbu" (措温布), meaning "blue sea." It sits at 3,200 meters elevation on the northeastern edge of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau.
We drove south along Lakeside West Road (环湖西路) from Gangcha to Heima River (黑马河)—122 kilometers in about 2 hours. Heima River marks the starting point of the lake's circular road; from here, 70 kilometers east lies the famous Bird Island. Many hikers and cyclists begin their Qinghai Lake journey here. Autumn offers the best sunrise views, and Heima River's western bank is the prime sunrise-spotting location.
Local families have sectioned off lakeside lavender fields—5 RMB per person for access and lakeside photos. Alternatively, 10 RMB gets you roadside parking and a path to the water.
We continued 80+ kilometers to Chaka Town (茶卡镇) in Ulan County, arriving at Chaka Salt Lake Tianyu Holiday Hotel (茶卡盐湖天域假日酒店)—691 RMB per room, the priciest accommodation of the trip, but worth it.
Dinner at Yifengyuan (伊峰源) featured the famous pit-roasted lamb (坑锅羊肉)—absolutely delicious.
Day 4: Chaka Salt Lake
A short 10-kilometer drive to Chaka Salt Lake (茶卡盐湖). The weather turned windy and cold at just 15°C—thin down jackets were appropriate. We bundled up in all our layers, wrapped ourselves in scarves, and wore long Bohemian dresses over skinny jeans. Warmth was essential before tackling the salt flats.
Chaka Salt Lake (茶卡盐湖): Also known as Chaka or Dabusunnao'er, this natural crystalline salt lake in Ulan County, Haixi Mongolian and Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, is one of the four major salt lakes in the Qaidam Basin. "Chaka" (茶卡) means "salt pool" in Tibetan; "Dabusunnao'er" is the Mongolian equivalent. Travelers call it China's "Mirror of the Sky," and National Geographic ranked it among "55 Places You Must Visit in Your Lifetime."
Two entrances exist: Sky Mirror (天空之境) and Sky No.1 (天空一号). Based on online reviews, we chose Sky No.1—a comprehensive scenic area combining accommodation, attractions, and outdoor activities.
We rode the small train through the salt flats, stopping at four stations. The wind was so strong it prevented the mirror effect; no blue sky reflected back—a small disappointment. Without perfect conditions, you'll need to imagine the "Mirror of the Sky" beauty.
Reality Check: Weather makes or breaks this experience. Calm, sunny days create that legendary reflection. Windy or overcast conditions? Not so much.
Before leaving Chaka, we returned to Yifengyuan for another round of pit-roasted lamb—because why not?
That afternoon, we drove 290 kilometers (5 hours) along Qinghai Lake's southern shore toward Xining, passing Erlangjian Scenic Area (二郎剑景区) and Rudong Erhai Scenic Area (湖东洱海风景区). The sun finally emerged.
Xining's Boliyabu Hotel (博丽雅布酒店), 508 RMB per night, was brand new with modern amenities. Located at Tangdao 637 in the city center, it's walking distance to Wanda Plaza, Haihu Plaza, Qinghai Grand Theater, and Xinhuilian Shopping Center—everything at your doorstep. We found a hotpot restaurant for a lamb hotpot dinner.
Xining (西宁): Located in eastern Qinghai Province at the heart of the Huangshui River valley, Xining serves as the eastern gateway to the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. It's a historic stop on the Southern Silk Road and Tang-Tibet Ancient Road, known as "Xihai Suoyue" (西海锁钥, "Key to the Western Sea") and "Haizang Yindong" (海藏咽喉, "Throat of the Sea and Tibet"). One of the world's highest-altitude major cities.
Day 5: Return via Menyuan
Our longest day: 450 kilometers back to Zhangye, approximately 7 hours, passing through Menyuan's rapeseed flower fields.
Leaving Xining, we entered endless mountains shrouded in mist and clouds. At 3,800 meters elevation, we wound through mountain roads with hairpin turns—the ultimate road trip experience.
Emerging from the fog and countless tunnels, we reached Menyuan—now basking in sunshine. Menyuan County (门源) is the origin of China's northern rapeseed, cultivating the world's largest rapeseed area—500,000 mu (about 83 square kilometers). The Menyuan Hundred-Li Rapeseed Flower Sea (门源百里油菜花海) is spectacular, far more impressive than roadside flowers elsewhere.
Our goal: reach Zhangye's七彩丹霞 (Colorful Danxia) by 4 PM for sunset—timing the perfect ending to our journey.
Zhangye Colorful Danxia (张掖七彩丹霞): At 1,850 meters average elevation, stretching 45 kilometers east-west and 10 kilometers north-south. These Danxia landforms are extraordinary—massive, concentrated, with intersecting strata and towering cliffs. The colors are astonishing: red, yellow, white, green-blue. Some formations undulate like waves; others slope downward like a multicolored blanket, gleaming in sunlight like red gauze. These are China's most典型 (typical) Danxia landforms in arid regions—and a different geological type entirely from the colorful hills themselves. The colors are unparalleled, the scenery unparalleled, the scale unmatched. Absolutely world-class.
Shuttle buses connect four viewing points, each more stunning than the last. It reminded me of Arizona's Grand Canyon, except with more vibrant colors.
Our 8:30 PM flight back to Shanghai closed out this unforgettable journey.
What We Learned
Weather is Everything: Weather dramatically affects both scenery and mood. Forecasts are unreliable—ignore them. Temperatures ranged 15-35°C with significant day-night variation. Ulan County's Chaka was especially cold at 10-18°C—bring a light jacket. UV radiation is intense; sunscreen is non-negotiable. Scarves and floral dresses are essential.
Food: The region offers halal beef and lamb. The lamb has no gamey taste—preparation methods differ from Shanghai. Must-try dishes: grilled lamb skewers, sliced lamb, hot lamb hotpot. The pit-roasted lamb at Chaka's Yifengyuan was exceptional. Portions are generous—four people need only three dishes. Due to high altitude, water boils below 100°C; rice cooks differently and is slightly underdone. Rice is rarely grown locally; a small bowl costs about 5 RMB.
Driving: Total distance: 1,519 kilometers over 30+ hours. Fuel cost: 500 RMB. Tolls: 96 RMB (most national and provincial roads started charging on our second day—bonus!).
Costs: Per person: 3,600 RMB (including everything)
Pro Hack: For more comfort, fly Shanghai to Xining, return from Zhangye. This avoids 7+ hours of backtracking but adds 1,500 RMB for one-way car rental. Alternatively, start and end in Xining.