Trip Overview
When: May (shoulder season, pleasant but sunny)
Duration: 5 days
Travelers: A group of friends who love photography
Budget: ~2,000 RMB (~$280 USD)
Destination: Xining (西宁) and Kumbum Monastery (塔尔寺), Qinghai Province
Why This Place Matters
Xining (西宁), a city I've passed through countless times—always as a transit point, never a destination. On my return from Tibet earlier this year, I once again changed planes here. But after visiting the Ta'er Temple in Guazhou, Gansu Province, I discovered something fascinating: there are actually TWO Ta'er Temples in China. The Guazhou site, often dismissed by tourists as nothing but rammed earth ruins and crumbling walls, versus the one I'm about to explore—Xining's Kumbum Monastery, draped in荣誉 and officially listed among "Top 100 Miracles of Northwest China."
First Impressions: The Eight Auspicious Towers
What I knew most about Kumbum Monastery (塔尔寺) came from online photos—not its famous "Three Artistical Masterpieces" (butterfly sculptures, thangka paintings, and appliqué embroidery), but rather the iconic "Eight Auspicious Towers" (八宝如意塔) standing in the monastery square. We arrived at 5 PM, right after checking into our hotel—some fellow photography enthusiasts among us couldn't wait to explore. But the scenic area had already closed. No problem, we thought. We'll stay for sunset photos of these legendary towers instead.
And that's when we first laid eyes on this symbol of Kumbum Monastery—the如意八宝塔.
Evening at the Monastery
Though we couldn't enter the temple complex, we photographed everything visible from outside. The scenic area had closed, but the public square remained alive with tourists and pilgrims—proof that Kumbum Monastery's appeal extends far beyond its grand architecture and internationally renowned "Three Artistical Masterpieces." Locals often say: visit Qinghai without seeing Kumbum Monastery, and you've wasted your trip. Though we hit a closed door, we gained something unexpected—an entire evening to capture the monastery in different light.
May in Northwest China means brilliant blue skies with drifting clouds. At noon, you'd better wear sunscreen or risk serious sunburn. But sunset brought surprises—watching clouds thicken and tumble overhead felt far more interesting than a cloudless sky. Drone photography was a must for this unique perspective.
The Drama Unfolds: Rain and Double Rainbow
Once our drone took flight, the dramatic light left us breathless and amazed. Kumbum Monastery is cradled by mountains, and as sunlight broke through the clouds, one snow-capped peak nearby glowed with a golden halo. Below, the monastery complex spread out—only the golden roofs still gleaming brightly. Suddenly, wind picked up. Rain began falling, drop by drop, then increasingly heavy...
Just as we were about to call it quits, something magical appeared above the Eight Auspicious Towers—a massive rainbow gradually materialized, growing clearer and clearer, until a faint second rainbow emerged above the first one. A double rainbow arced over Kumbum Monastery, while rain fell like ice pellets, striking our hands and faces. The sudden wind brought a sharp temperature drop—chilling!
The sky's colors transformed under the rainbow's glow—dark clouds turning blue, colorful clouds flashing through, the sun appearing and disappearing while scattering its last rays...
Beautiful moments are fleeting. Fortunately, we'd return the next day for more shots. The weather that defines Northwest China—still a novelty to us—continued to impress. Even at scorching noon, the visibility remained crystal clear, with fluffy or wispy clouds drifting lazily overhead...
The Legend of the Butter Tree
Towers stand out prominently throughout Kumbum Monastery. In legend, the tree near the main pagoda seems to mock you—making you wonder if THIS is the actual pagoda from the story.
In reality, the true Butter Tree (菩提宝塔), also known as the Tsongkhapa Memorial Pagoda, is located on a small hill outside the monastery entrance, as our guide explained. The towers INSIDE the scenic area are mostly later reconstructions, rebuilt and expanded multiple times over the centuries. Yet the story transmitted for over 600 years remains unchanged!
The Three Artistical Masterpieces: No Photos Allowed
Honestly, visiting Xining without seeing Kumbum Monastery is遗憾 (regrettable). But entering Kumbum Monastery only to see—without photographing—the "Three Artistical Masterpieces" is ALSO somewhat disappointing. Photography inside the halls is absolutely prohibited, as are images of the monks. We followed the rules, simply observing and personally experiencing these rare artistic treasures.
Kumbum Monastery monks primarily study Mahayana and Esoteric Buddhism, also learning medicine, craftsmanship, astronomy, and calendar-making. They engage in block carving, printing, embroidery, paper-cutting, and statue-making. Among these, butter sculptures (酥油花), appliqué (堆绣), and thangka paintings (壁画) form the monastery's unique artistic tradition, long celebrated in the art world.
A Monastery Like No Other
While many hall scenes prohibit photography, if you look carefully, you can find replicas of thangka elements and appliqué decorations adorning the walls. The architecture itself—especially around the Butter Pagoda Hall (菩提塔殿), commonly called the Golden Tile Hall (金瓦殿)—forms the monastery's heart. With countless halls and pagoda upon pagoda, the complex covers over 600 mu (about 100 acres). Its magnificent scale, ancient history, exquisite artistry, and rich collection of Buddhist artifacts make Kumbum Monastery unparalleled among Tibetan Buddhist temples in Northwest China.
The Grand Silver Pagoda
Its preeminence isn't just from Buddhist artifacts, but also from repeated renovations and expansions funded by emperors, princes, and foreign donors throughout history! In 1642, the Fifth Administrator of Kumbum Monastery, Choegye Namgyal, used funding from Mongolian donor Erdeni Hong Taiji to wrap the pagoda in silver and decorate it with gold patterns and various gems. In 1712, Prince Dashen of Qinghai donated 100 taels of gold and 10,000 taels of silver, further enlarging and elevating the pagoda into today's Grand Silver Pagoda. This majestic structure is Kumbum Monastery's most sacred site!
The main Butter Pagoda Hall, also known as the "Golden Tile Hall" (金瓦殿), was expanded in 1708 during the Kangxi Emperor's reign, funded by Prince Dashen, Mongolian Prince Tegshi Erdeni, and local official Sonam Drakshi. Just two years later, the Prince donated another 1,300 taels of gold and 12,000 taels of silver to overlay the middle roof tier with golden tiles. In 1740 during the Qianlong Emperor's reign, Prince Aierke funded another major renovation, donating 27,000 taels of silver and sending master craftsmen to completely restore and repaint the Great Golden Tile Hall.
A Poetic Ending
Beneath Kumbum Monastery's Eight Auspicious Towers
Do your past devout bows still echo here?
A drop of butter, transformed into lifelike butter flowers
An oil lamp, reflecting exquisitely colorful thangka paintings
Each drop and lamp eternally reincarnates past beauty
At sunset, after the sun shower, rainbows span the towers again
Just like the unchanged face of a wandering youth upon return...