Trip Overview
When: September 14-23 (prime autumn weather, fewer crowds than summer peak)
Duration: 10 days
Travelers: Couple (married)
Budget: ~6,500 RMB (~$930 USD) per person
Transportation: Private driver (chartered car with driver)
Essential Foreigner Info
Getting There: Fly into Xining (西宁) - the main gateway to Qinghai Province. Most travelers arrive via Xining Caojiabao Airport. We flew directly from Hangzhou to Xining.
Money Matters: Mobile payment (WeChat Pay, Alipay) is ubiquitous in Qinghai and Gansu - bring your phone. Some remote areas still accept cash, but prepare 200-500 RMB for emergencies.
Language: English is very limited outside major hotels. Learn key phrases: 谢谢 (xièxie - thank you), 多少钱 (duōshao qián - how much), 买单 (mǎidān - bill please).
Driving & Roads: The Qinghai-Gansu Grand Loop involves long distances (700-1000km per day). Hiring a driver is strongly recommended - road conditions vary, and some passes reach 3800m altitude. Not for the faint of heart!
Day 1: Arriving in Xining
We landed in Xining around noon - the capital of Qinghai Province feels like a small town compared to eastern China, but it's clean, organized, and surprisingly comfortable. We stayed on Dongguan Street (东关大街), centrally located and close to Mojia Street (莫家街) for food.
First meal: chao pao zhang (炒炮仗) - hand-pulled noodles shaped like little firecrackers. The noodles are chewy and satisfying - definitely try them without sauce first to appreciate the noodles themselves.
Foreigner tip: Xining is Muslim-majority, so you'll find excellent halal food. The city has many mosques - we visited Dongguan Mosque (东关清真寺), though it was closed due to COVID when we were there. The nearby South Mosque (南关清真寺) has beautiful pure white Arabic architecture.
Dinner: Yixin Hand-Grilled Mutton (益鑫手抓羊肉馆) - their signature hand-grab lamb is legendary. Order the lamb and maybe one vegetable - portions are HUGE. We made the mistake of ordering too much.
Day 2: Danggushan Ancient City (A Cautionary Tale)
Our driver picked us up early, heading toward Qinghai Lake (青海湖). We originally planned to visit Ta'er Temple (塔尔寺), but heard it's difficult to access due to vehicle restrictions. Instead, our driver suggested Danggushan Ancient City - our first mistake.
Reality check: Danggushan Ancient City (丹噶尔古城) is essentially a film set from a Chinese movie - nothing authentic, completely touristy, and a total waste of time. The driver admitted he'd never even been there. Learn from our fail: stick to famous attractions.
Onward to Qinghai Lake (青海湖) - the journey through grasslands was breathtaking. We saw yaks, sheep, and prayer flags (经幡) fluttering in the wind. Our driver explained that white towers (白塔) mark areas where people actually live - most of the vast grassland appears empty but is divided into family grazing lands.
We passed Riyue Mountain (日月山) and Daotang River (倒淌河) from the window - some sights are better appreciated from a distance.
Day 2-3: Qinghai Lake & Chaka Sky No.1
Around 12:30 PM, we reached Erlangjian Scenic Area (二郎剑景区). While the official scenic area requires a ticket, many enter through alternative paths without paying. Our driver found one such spot - still crowded but manageable since the lake is enormous.
The iconic "Qinghai Lake" stone marker draws crowds - expect photo queues. We skipped the yak-photo props and walked deeper in. Pro tip: there's a narrow path near the shore where your reflection appears perfectly in a small water channel - magical but watch your step, the edges are muddy!
I made the classic tourist mistake - stepped too close to the water's edge, sank into black mud, and soaked my shoes. Sat on a rock in the sun drying them while watching groups of tourists pose with colorful scarves. The wind was strong but the sun intense - perfect drying weather.
Since sunset isn't until 8:30 PM in these parts, we had time to visit Chaka Sky No.1 (茶卡天空壹号), a newer scenic area about 20km from Chaka Salt Lake (茶卡盐湖). Similar to the famous salt lake but less crowded. We walked through the quiet train parked in the middle of the lake - hauntingly beautiful.
Foreigner tip: There's a newly built hotel at Sky No.1 - pricey but convenient for sunset/sunrise views. We stayed in Chaka Town instead, where hotels are plentiful but food is expensive.
Day 3: Chaka Salt Lake & Delingha
Chaka Salt Lake (茶卡盐湖) is best visited early morning or late afternoon - harsh midday sun flattens the reflections. We arrived at opening and caught stunning mirror-like surfaces. The scenic area is huge - take the tourist train directly to the center rather than walking the crowded outer sections.
Pro hack: Rent shoe covers at the entrance, but bring disposable plastic shoe covers underneath for hygiene. Wear colorful but not all-red - you'll stand out better in photos.
By noon, we drove to Delingha (德令哈), the capital of Haixi Prefecture. This quiet city gained fame from poet Hai Zi's poem "Sister, Tonight I'm in Delingha." There's a Hai Zi poetry exhibition hall, though few tourists visit. Surprisingly, we found many Zhejiang immigrants - the city has a distinct eastern Chinese flavor.
Our driver took us to a special road marked "520" and "1431" - romantic km markers that Chinese couples apparently love. Sweet gesture!
Late afternoon: Emerald/Jade Lake (翡翠湖). This stunning green-colored salt lake comprises dozens of smaller pools separated by sand dunes. The farther you walk from the entrance, the fewer people you encounter. Standing on a sand dune looking at the green lakes below - absolutely breathtaking. Cold though! Even with down jackets, the wind bit hard.
Stayed in Dachaidan Town (大柴旦镇) - accommodation was terrible (cramped, overpriced) but the government is cracking down. Book cancellable rooms in advance! We ate at Yibula (依布拉) - excellent local food at fair prices, packed with locals.
Day 4: 1000km to Dunhuang
A marathon travel day: 1000km from Qinghai to Gansu Province. Up at dawn, driving through endless Gobi Desert - hauntingly beautiful.
Highlights: Watching sunrise on the road, spotting birds at West Taijinaier Lake (西台吉乃尔湖), exploring the unique terrain of Water Yakeng (水上雅丹), visiting East Taijinaier Lake (东台吉乃尔湖) - dubbed "China's Maldives."
The drive down from 3800m at Dangjin Mountain (当金山) to 1500m at Aksai (阿克塞) was white-knuckle stuff. Our driver was experienced and fantastic - he even took great photos for us!
Senior alert: This day is NOT for those with heart conditions or altitude sickness. The altitude changes rapidly.
Arrived Dunhuang (敦煌) exhausted but exhilarated. Weather perfect - caught both sunrise and sunset!
Day 5: Mingsha Mountain & Crescent Spring
Slept in, then visited Dunhuang Museum (敦煌博物馆). Every city museum is worth visiting - understand the history before exploring! The museum gives crucial context for Dunhuang's Silk Road significance.
Nearby White Horse Tower (白马塔) - our second tourist trap. 15 RMB for a tiny white pagoda and nothing else. Skip it.
However, Dunhuang city itself is wonderful - clean, well-signed, genuinely welcoming. Will definitely return!
At 5 PM, we headed to Mingsha Mountain (鸣沙山) - yes, it literally sings (the sand makes a sound when you slide down). Crowded with camel riders. We rented shoe covers and climbed - it's actual climbing in soft sand, harder than it looks.
The view of Crescent Spring (月牙泉) from above at sunset was spectacular. Stay until dark (around 9 PM!) - the illuminated spring and star-filled sky are unforgettable.
Pro hack: Skip the shoe covers if you have flip-flops - warm sand between toes is divine. Do NOT forget sunscreen - UV is brutal. Going down is easy - just lean back and slide. We made it down in 10 minutes.
Day 6: Mogao Caves - The Dream Fulfilled
Mogao Caves (莫高窟) was non-negotiable on this trip - a lifelong dream. Booked the 8:45 AM slot, went through all procedures, viewed 8 caves, then snuck into 3 more.
Foreigner tip: Book online weeks in advance - tickets sell out. The caves are temperature-controlled and strictly managed to preserve the paintings.
Finished at the Taoist Monk Wang Yuanlu's tower (王圆箓的道士塔) - the controversial figure who sold many cave paintings to Western explorers. Still makes me angry thinking about it.
Evening: Shazhou Night Market (沙洲夜市) - enormous, well-managed, fair prices, everything clearly marked. A model for tourist markets everywhere! Bought dried fruit to bring home - regret not buying more.
Day 7: Guazhou, Jiayuguan & Colorful Danxia
Another 700+ km day. Stopped at Guazhou for melons - incredibly sweet. Specialty products are pricey but good for gifts.
Jiayuguan (嘉峪关) - the "First Pass Under Heaven" has little original structure remaining. Drove around, visited the Great Wall Museum, then moved on.
Reached Colorful Danxia (七彩丹霞) in overcast weather - the only gray day of our trip. The colors were still visible though less vibrant. This place is incredibly popular - every viewpoint was packed.
Reality check: Don't just hit Viewpoint 4 (most famous) - all four viewpoints have different characters. Viewpoint 1 is smallest but has clearest color differentiation. Viewpoints 2 and 3 are most grand. Viewpoint 4 is most photographed but most crowded.
Stayed in Qicai Town - disappointing hotels. Drove to Zhangye City (张掖市) for better options. Dinner at Luopangzi Noodle House (罗胖子面馆) - excellent, cheap noodles.
Day 8: Zhangye & Return to Xining
Originally planned to return to Xining via the scenic route, but our driver had no follow-up booking to Xining and the autumn route has few attractions. We took the high-speed train back instead - worked out well.
Planned to visit Zhangye National Wetland Park near our hotel, but it rained - first rain of the trip! Had the local specialty "fish-shaped noodles" (搓鱼面) at the hotel restaurant - named for their fish-like shape. Delicious!
Day 9: Ta'er Temple
Back in Xining, visited Ta'er Temple (塔尔寺). The temple's history comes from an internal devotion - founded to honor the mother of the famous Buddhist reformer Tsongkhapa.
Foreigner tip: Hire a guide - expensive but worth it for understanding the temple's significance. We "borrowed" a tour group from Jinan - as a Jinan native's wife, I felt only slightly guilty!
The temple's "three wonders" (三绝): thangka (堆绣), butter sculptures (酥油花), and wall paintings (壁画) - all exquisite. Take your time wandering.
Reality check: Qinghai Provincial Museum was under renovation - missed it. Check before visiting.
Day 10: Departure
Before heading to the airport, queue up for dog-peeing cake (狗浇尿) - actually a barley pancake, delicious without toppings or with egg and bean sprouts. Paired with local yogurt.
Postscript: Reflections
Ten days flew by. Travel is more than relaxation - it's spiritual cleansing. The landscapes were overwhelming; no camera can capture what the eye sees. I chose to carry these memories in my heart.
The infrastructure in these vast, sparsely populated regions is remarkable - government investment in Western development is evident. Minority communities genuinely appreciate the Party and government - you can feel their gratitude.
Final plea: Be a responsible traveler. Don't litter, minimize waste, respect local customs. These pristine places deserve protection.
Practical Tips Summary
Best Time: Mid-June to mid-August for green grasslands and rapeseed flowers. We went in September - still beautiful but less green.
Must-See Attractions: Ta'er Temple, Qinghai Lake, Sky No.1, Chaka Salt Lake, Jade Lake, East/West Taijinaier Lakes, Water Yakeng, Dunhuang, Colorful Danxia - choose based on time available.
What to Pack: Large day-night temperature variations mean layers are essential. Lots of meat and noodles but bring snacks for remote stretches. Book cancellable accommodation everywhere -旺季 (peak season) prices are insane. Private driver is essential - ensure vehicle has spare seats for comfort. Choose your driver carefully - ours was exceptional: caring, honest, knowledgeable, and gave us better hotel rates than we'd found online!
Sun & Dryness: The sun is merciless - sunscreen is non-negotiable. The air is extremely dry - bring heavy moisturizer. I suffered without hand cream daily. Bring Vaseline!