Trip Overview
When: September 2021 (Early Autumn - best weather for autumn colors)
Duration: 3 days
Travelers: Friends group
Budget: ~1,500 RMB (~$210 USD) per person
Transportation: Self-driving from Chengdu
Essential Foreigner Info
Getting There: From Chengdu, take Chengdu Ring Road → Rongchang Expressway → 317 National Road → 248 National Road → 347 National Road → 500 Township Road to Lianbao Yeze. Total drive: approximately 6 hours. Alternatively, take a bus from Chengdu's Chadianzi Bus Station to Aba (阿坝), then transfer to the scenic area.
Money Matters: Cash and mobile payment both work. Entry ticket is 120 RMB (~$17 USD). Most restaurants and hotels in the area accept Alipay and WeChat Pay.
Altitude Warning: The scenic area sits at high altitude (over 4,000 meters). Foreign visitors from low-altitude areas should prepare for altitude sickness. Bring oxygen cans, stay hydrated, and avoid strenuous activity on Day 1.
What to Pack: Sunscreen and sunglasses are essential. Temperature drops significantly at night—bring a down jacket or hardshell jacket. I highly recommend Kailas (凯乐石) gear, a fantastic Chinese outdoor brand with excellent value. Their Mont-X jacket handles extreme weather changes perfectly.
Prologue: Why We're Here
Tucked away in the southern region of Mount Bayangara (巴颜嘎拉山), this is a sacred mountain and heavenly lake dominating the area. The slanting sun adds frosty holiness to this blessed land. From that moment, I fell deeply in love with this place of extraordinary mountains and beautiful waters—Lianbao Yeze (莲宝叶则) in Aba (阿坝), the hidden gem of western Sichuan.
Expansive and majestic, it's known as the "Source of Shu Mountains, Ladder to Kunlun," praised as the God's Back Garden, a world of strange peaks and bizarre rocks—an art gallery carved by nature. Whether spring, summer, autumn, or winter, each season offers unique scenery, making it worth visiting again and again!
Nature's supernatural craftsmanship creates this stone mountain's extraordinary character. Some call it a transcendent wonderland, a bizarre魔界 (demon realm), a warm and affectionate human world. The宏伟 external surface is even dubbed the "World of Warcraft" landscape. Coming here to inhale the continuous mountain灵气, gazing at the great mountains and rivers of western China—this mountain journey is truly fulfilling.
They say an interesting life is half mountains and lakes, half daily烟火. These years of travel experiences keep my passionate初心 alive on the road, viewing scenic beauty with fresh eyes. I've always believed western Sichuan mountains are unique—you can see snow-capped mountains, grasslands, forests, and lakes along the way. The biggest surprise? Due to the high altitude, a sudden drop in temperature might treat you to an unexpected snowscape, making mountain peaks reveal icy edges while the earth dresses in silver, transforming into a pure, dreamy realm beyond the mortal world, filled with fantasy and romance.
In early September, when my friends and I embarked on this long road for a glimpse of the mysterious "Peak of Jade Honor" (尊严的玉石之峰), I felt deep reverence in my heart. It felt like a pilgrimage path toward the soul—perhaps other peaks are more magnificent, but we simply follow human nature, bowing deeply to the strong.
Day 1: Lianbao Yeze Under Snow
The westward journey is quite distant. After 6 hours of self-driving from Chengdu, we finally arrived. After resting for the night, we couldn't wait to head out early the next morning. The scenery along the way kept amazing us—the lack of human development makes the views look exceptionally pristine. The first lake we passed, called Baixiang Lake (柏香海), has autumn vegetation that becomes natural dye, making the scenery full of layers, from deep to light, sketching a misty意境.
The white restaurant across the lake looks like a piece of white jade in the landscape, refreshingly elegant. A jade by the lake, weathered by mountain rain—it's the most beautiful embellishment in these mountains.
The temperature dropped sharply, the weather changed dramatically, and suddenly a heavy snowfall surprised and delighted us. We immediately sped up toward the mountain's viewpoint. Standing on the observation deck, that proud atmosphere rushes over you like crashing into a fairyland. The mighty Shu Mountains, difficult to traverse—comparable to reaching the blue sky!
This scene reminds me of the magical visuals from the Chinese RPG series "Chinese Paladin" (仙剑奇侠传)—beauty beyond words. Cold winds rise, snowflakes fall. Xu Changqing is no longer the Xu Changqing of old. Climbing the mountain, standing between ice and snow—from now on, worldly affairs are no concern of mine. This mountain has the noble spirit that reaching its peak can make one forget worldly matters.
This sacred mountain, which should have allowed us to feel nature's gift in autumn's coolness, instead let us experience winter's cold while admiring the strange scenery across the mountains. Mountain wildness, human excitement—the scene after scene at the viewpoint reflects Lianbao Yeze's transcendence, strange peaks and bizarre rocks, and magnificent grandeur. Each strange peak has a strong overall character, every peculiar posture appearing as if meticulously carved. We can only sigh that even stubborn stones can be as beautiful as emerald jade.
Mountain ranges rise, mountain bodies shine, revealing obsidian-like depth. The jumbled rocks give a sense of ever-changing artistry. The overall black and white looks like a chess game left by the gods here millions of years ago. We wander through the chessboard, contemplating the ancient divine prophecies.
Reaching the summit to view the mountains, the biggest advantage is being able to see the mountain's trajectory. Compared to appreciating just a glimpse from the mountain foot, understanding its form better reveals the mysteries of hiking through mountains. As the snow gradually melts, the mountain reveals its wild black color again, wrapped in sky-high mist, directly forming a magnificent landscape painting.
Snow peaks stretch continuously. Every step we take in the mountains reveals more of its black color. We also become painters of nature, using our feet to extract the most unique stroke in the mountains—this stroke is high, crossing peaks and passing through clouds; low, circling lakes. The mountain's lying dragon transforms into spiritual lakes, dark pools shaped like crouching dragons, clouds and mist circling, as if about to emerge.
The emptiness of the mountains awakens primal wildness in people. Shouting in the mountains not only breaks the endless silence but also relieves physical fatigue and releases inner pressure.
The mountain path turns, sea of clouds spreads. Between towering peaks, amidst rushing thick fog, what presents itself is exactly the roaring sea in my heart. High mountains have no water, yet they have water's momentum. One after another of winding upright trajectories seem like waves of time frozen in furious wind, leaving us only with surging emotions.
Walking along the mountain ridge boardwalk, it's like shuttling above a black dragon.
Lianbao Yeze is one of the ten sacred mountains in Tibetan areas. What you see everywhere is people's faith toward it. The玛尼堆 (stone cairns) stacked in the mountains—whose prayers do they carry?
Finally, we arrive at Yuanyuan Yuan Coffee House below the observation deck. This scene instantly becomes the focal point of the entire venue. It's a circular transparent house built on the open space in the middle of the mountain wall. It can enjoy the sun's nourishment while avoiding strong winds. The glass building makes it completely bright—it's an elegant existence even in this uninhabited wilderness.
The comfortable indoor seats are the best supply after climbing the mountain all day. Sitting by the window, holding a steaming hot coffee—after taking a sip, my whole body seems to melt like ice and snow. Between breaths, cold and warmth alternate—particularly pleasant. Of course, not afraid of the cold, you can also enjoy an outdoor coffee, drinking with the cool wind, contemplating deeply, enjoying the most natural wonderful taste. After this elegant yet rich coffee, the road ahead will surely be smoother.
Day 2: Lianbao Yeze Under Blue Sky and White Clouds
Still having fun, we continued to explore the scenic area on the second day. Fortunately, the weather obliged, presenting a different scenery along the way that intoxicated our eyes. The sky was blue, white clouds were scattered. Along the route, we also saw some village scenery. The familiar highland yaks made this day full of vitality from the start. We'll continue exploring Lianbao Yeze's charm and fun with immense fresh interest. When the breeze rises, let the new day's vitality begin.
If yesterday was winter, then today is deep autumn. The vast grasslands have shown their tender yellow weariness, carrying a lazy atmosphere, making one want to go back to sleep. Perhaps it's the few moos from the yaks that call our souls back to the mountains and grasslands.
Laughter echoes through the mountains. The village huddled at the mountain's foot appears especially serene.
We couldn't help but stay a little longer, watching groups of cattle grazing and playing, looking at the ancient mountain temple gradually being swallowed by shrubs and trees. Our thoughts also drifted with the chanting scriptures to the end of the sky.
Playing around the village gave us a different leisurely experience from yesterday. Holy light beams descended from the sky. Mountains and rivers seemed to receive the message of the deity's descent, revealing brilliant radiance, welcoming this day's highlight moment.
The winding stream looks like a walking snake, green given by the green mountains, extending from this side to the mountainside until the sun's halo passes through the clouds, placing a brilliant golden crown on it. Only then can we tell which is head and which is tail. The vast lawn stimulates our not-yet-faded childlike innocence, arranging for us to run with the cattle. Distant village chimneys rise—this moment feels like experiencing all the world's beauty.
After entering the Lianbao Yeze scenic area, we went straight to the beautiful lake—Zhagari Lake (扎嘎尔措). The scenery around the lake let us understand what a true "mirror of the sky" is. The mountains surrounding the shore like mighty giants, holding Zhagari Lake as if presenting the most beautiful gift to the heavenly deity. We are merely passersby. The only way to leave part of it is to quietly take a photo with it.
What makes Lianbao Yeze unpredictable, besides the clouds' colors, is the lake's colors. We observed it carefully—from yesterday's black dragon to today's transparent emerald. This piece might also be a treasure that even heaven cannot take away.
Legend has it that the Lianbao Yeze area is the ancient battlefield where King Gesar (格萨尔王) fought. Looking into the distance, you can really feel the藏匿于山峰间的肃杀之气 (the killing atmosphere hidden among the peaks).
On the other side of the lake, we encountered more玛尼堆 (stone cairns). The sacred atmosphere instantly made the ambiance rich. At first glance, it seems naturally formed, fitting especially well with these mountains and waters.
Along the way, we also pass by the 1314 boardwalk. As the name implies, it's exactly 1,314 steps upward. It's called the "Stairway to Love" and is a place couples shouldn't miss. The viewpoint at the top is called "4520," meaning "I love you." Walking through this steep path filled with原始气息 (pristine atmosphere), surrounded by flowers and wild grass, it's not lacking a bit of romance.
The sun's rays don't stop, as if催促 (urging) all worldly things not yet awakened in this day. We successively climbed the observation deck, wanting to confirm Lianbao Yeze's colors once more. Today's mountains really look different from yesterday's.
Local people have another name for it: "Stone Castle" (石头城堡). I think this name is more vivid and accurate. The mountain road twists, slowly extending toward the castle's depths.
On the way back, we also sped along the highway, wanting to explore all the beauty here. Along the way, we encountered a large stone standing in the mountains, covered with colorful text. On one side of the stone, its Chinese meaning is marked: "磐石" (Solid Rock), considered by locals to symbolize rock-solid love.
Lianbao Yeze in western Sichuan's secret area is also a very suitable place for self-cultivation. Few people, beautiful scenery, good air. Next to Baixiang Lake (柏香海), we also saw many small wooden houses, said to become inns within the scenic area.
The excellent geographic location of being next to mountains and lakes gives a harmonious flavor of returning to nature, like a paradise.
Walking forward along the footpath, the rising人间烟火气 (worldly life atmosphere) lets one experience the unique leisurely feeling of Lianbao Yeze.
The "Heaven and Earth Raft" (天地浮槎) coffee shop by the lake is also a photo spot not to be missed. The meaning behind it: "The Yellow River's water comes from heaven, Sichuan people explore the source river by raft."浮槎 (raft) refers to the wooden raft in ancient legends that traveled between heaven and earth. According to records, when Zhang Qian (张骞) was sent as an envoy to the West, he rode this raft to the Star Sea, placing the Weaver's "Support Stone" (支矶石) in Chengdu, forming "Support Stone Road."浮槎 thus became an intermediary connecting the human world and heaven. It's said that couples who make vows of love together on the raft can have their vows ride the raft to reach heaven, heard by the Matchmaker. Their love will also be blessed by the Matchmaker, remaining unchanged.
Time flies. Our Lianbao Yeze trip is coming to an end. But I must say every step in Lianbao Yeze is liberating and clear.
Conclusion
Lianbao Yeze, with its ever-changing face, makes us have infinite imagination about this mysterious pure land. A short time is truly not enough to understand it. The first meeting's grandeur, the second meeting's gentleness—it becomes another unsolved mystery in our lives. One side is horizontal swords and lying horses, a general who has fought a hundred battles, how can he return, proud bones, winds blowing a hundred zhang, the future unknown without regrets. The other side is a gentle beautiful maiden, soft light skin evoking fondness, willow waist, rain hitting the railings, a longing gaze awaiting the beloved's return. Passing through the vast mountains, we've embarked on our return journey. Looking back, Lianbao Yeze truly deserves to be called the secret realm of western Sichuan, a pure land on earth!
If you're wondering where to go during National Day (国庆), I really recommend coming here. The main attractions within the Lianbao Yeze scenic area are four lakes and four valleys. If you have enough time, you can slowly explore. If you brought camping equipment in your car, you can also stay overnight inside, watching the starry sky and waiting for the sun to light up the golden mountain. It will be unforgettable for life and worth the trip.
Practical Information
Coordinates: Lianbao Yeze · Stone Mountain Scenic Area, Aba County (阿坝县), Sichuan Province (四川省)
Self-driving: Chengdu → Chengcheng → Rongchang → 317 National Road → 248 National Road → 347 National Road → 500 Township Road → Destination
Public Transport: Chadianzi Bus Station → Aba (阿坝) → Destination
Ticket: 120 RMB (~$17 USD) per person
Tips: The scenic area has high altitude. Visitors from plains should prepare for altitude sickness in advance. Bring sunscreen and sunglasses. Temperature difference is particularly large between morning and evening—you must wear a hardshell jacket or down jacket. I personally recommend Kailas (凯乐石). During this trip, I wore this brand from head to toe. It's truly a shining example of domestic products with excellent value. Unafraid of snow and rain. Especially the new Mont-X, which can handle extreme sudden weather changes at any time. The oxidized orange color is also eye-catching, very suitable for outdoor photos. It's truly an essential good for mountain hiking and travel...