I returned to Shawan, a quiet riverside town that time seems to have forgotten, after twenty years away. What started as a quest to rediscover the flavors of my student days—steamed pork intestines, blood tofu, and that unforgettable aroma drifting from the paper mill—turned into a profound reminder of how some places never change. As I walked past the statue of Guo Moruo and through ancient archways, memories flooded back: the 6-liang rice meals, the nights spent dreaming of feasts, and those carefree days when we celebrated traffic jams just to skip evening classes. This isn't just a food pilgrimage; it's a journey back to a simpler time.
Trip Overview
When: October (Autumn)
Duration: 1 day
Travelers: Couple
Budget: ~50 RMB (~$7 USD) per person
Transportation: Car (2 hours from Chengdu)
Morning: The Drive Down Memory Lane
The night before, rain fell hard and winds howled. By morning, yellow leaves carpeted the courtyard. Sitting on the balcony with a cup of tea, the crisp autumn air carried the faint scent of jasmine and roses. It was the perfect moment to surrender to nostalgia.
"Mostly seeking joy in mountains and waters, frequently making excursions by boat." With just one day to spare, I wanted to revisit the tastes of memory.
From Chengdu to Shawan is about 160 kilometers—just over two hours by car now. When I was a student, traveling from Leshan to Chengdu took more than four hours. Shawan is an unassuming riverside town rarely visited by tourists. It was once called "Leshan's Ruhr"—back then, my school sat beside massive steel factories and paper mills. Every evening, that distinctive, traditional smell from the paper mill would drift into the dormitories. In Sichuan dialect, we'd say: "That flavor—simply unmatched."
🎯 Practical Info
Distance: ~160km from ChengduDrive Time: 2-2.5 hoursBest Route: Chengdu-Leshan-Shawan via highway
Noon: A Feast of Memories
Circling past the statue of Guo Moruo (郭沫若 Guō Mòruò) in the town center, then passing through the old street archway—everything felt like yesterday, unchanged. The steamed pork intestines (蒸肥肠 Zhēng Féicháng) and steamed beef (蒸牛肉 Zhēng Niúròu), the blood tofu (血旺 Xuè Wàng) and tofu pudding (豆花 Dòuhuā)—those hole-in-the-wall eateries still stood by the roadside, just as I remembered them. Along the willow-lined banks of the Dadu River, the wind carried willow catkins into the air, timeless and unchanged.
Back in school, we might eat like this once a year, maybe twice if we were lucky. Those were the happiest times. The cafeteria food seemed to lack any oil or substance—I'd eat six liang (about 300g) of rice per meal and still need a steamed bun to feel full. This led to burning through my monthly food ration tickets far too quickly.
The small eatery's pork intestine blood tofu and the occasional steamed pork from the school cafeteria—the smell in the air at this moment was different from the paper mill. This was the smell of joy.
This hole-in-the-wall restaurant only opens for lunch! For decades, it has stood faithfully across from Guo Moruo's former residence, serving the same honest flavors day after day.
🍽️ Culinary Highlights
Must-Try Dishes: Steamed pork intestines (蒸肥肠), Steamed beef (蒸牛肉), Blood tofu (血旺), Tofu pudding (豆花)Best Time: Lunch only (arrive before 2 PM)Location: Across from Guo Moruo's former residencePrice: ~15-20 RMB per person (~$2-3 USD)
Afternoon: From Shawan to Emei
"The moon over Mount Emei is half an autumn moon." This is the season perfect for a post-lunch stroll at the foot of Mount Emei.
From Shawan to Emei, passing the cement factory at Jiuli, I always recall our school spring outings. Especially the return trips, when too many cement trucks blocked the road and we couldn't get back to school—everyone was so happy, so joyful. In truth, we just didn't want to attend those two evening self-study sessions.
During holidays, Mount Emei bustles with traffic and crowds. Not wanting to join the masses, we drove to Huangwan Town by the river, where few visitors venture.
We also took advantage of free EV charging at the Holiday Inn Express—four brand new fast chargers, though two had parking locks on them.
🔋 EV Charging Tips
Location: Holiday Inn Express, Huangwan TownChargers: 4 fast chargers (2 with parking locks)Cost: Free for guests
Evening: Reflections
The osmanthus blooms three times in autumn, filling the air with fragrance. "Let's drink together, friend." Twenty years since I last walked these streets of Shawan.
Traveling as a youth, now departing with a full charge.
Today, too, I must love my life.
Quick Reference Guide
Destination: Shawan District, Leshan City, Sichuan Province
Best Time to Visit: Spring or Autumn
Duration: 1 day (or combine with Mount Emei for 2 days)
Highlights: Local Sichuan street food, Guo Moruo's former residence, riverside walks
Budget: ~50-100 RMB (~$7-14 USD) per person
Language: Sichuan dialect (Mandarin understood)
Getting There: 2-hour drive from Chengdu or high-speed train to Leshan plus local transport