I fulfilled a lifelong dream by driving China's legendary Highway 318 from Chengdu to Lhasa, then returning via Highway 109 through the Tibetan Plateau. Over 15 unforgettable days, my friend and I navigated hairpin turns at 4,200 meters, battled altitude sickness, crossed the treacherous 72-turns pass, and witnessed landscapes that defy imagination—from snow-capped peaks and pristine lakes to vast grasslands where Tibetan antelopes roam.
Trip Overview
When: July 2020
Duration: 15 days
Travelers: With a friend (2 people)
Budget: ~9,000 RMB (~$1,300 USD) per person
Total Cost: ~19,000 RMB (~$2,700 USD) for two people
Vehicle: 1.6L sedan (yes, it can be done!)
Route: Highway 318 (Chengdu → Lhasa) + Highway 109 (Lhasa → Golmud) + Xi'an
Day 1: Journey to Chongqing
I had dreamed of driving the Sichuan-Tibet Highway (Highway 318) for years. The call of "Must Drive 318 in This Lifetime" was too strong to resist. In July 2020, I finally decided to take my small sedan on this legendary route, entering via the Sichuan-Tibet Highway and exiting via the Qinghai-Tibet Highway.
Our first day started with a drive to Chongqing. I had planned to see the city's famous night views, but we got stuck in traffic for two hours. Missing the sunset views, I met up with a university classmate I hadn't seen in 11 years for a late-night dinner. It was a poignant reminder of how much life changes—we're not young anymore.
Day 2: Chongqing to Chengdu
Today's drive was relaxed. We left at 10 AM and arrived in Chengdu by 4 or 5 PM. Here, I met up with travel companions we had arranged online to meet. Since I had been to Chengdu before, after dinner we just walked around briefly and rested early—we needed our energy for what lay ahead.
Day 3: Chengdu to Batang—The Real Adventure Begins
This was the longest drive of the entire trip. We drove directly from Chengdu to Batang, not arriving until around midnight. Along the way, we passed Luding Bridge, Hailuogou Glacier, Kangding, Zheduo Mountain, Xindu Bridge, and Jianzha Mountain.
Luck was with us on this first real day—clear skies meant we saw everything. Most attractions were right along the road, so we didn't lose much time. The real challenge came when we climbed our first 4,200-meter pass with endless switchbacks. My little 1.6L car somehow made it, though at high altitude, even flooring the accelerator couldn't get us past certain speeds. I silently vowed to buy a proper 4x4 with a turbo engine after this trip.
🍽️ Food Highlight
Location: Kangding
Dish: Tibetan family-style cuisine
Verdict: Absolutely delicious! One of the best meals of the trip.
Day 4: Batang to Bangda—Altitude Sickness Strikes
After the grueling Day 3, we decided to take it easier. Our planned destination was Baxoi (Bā Sù), but we took it slow and ended up reaching Bangda around 9 PM—only to find the road closed for night restrictions. We had no choice but to stay overnight in Bangda.
That night at 4,100 meters altitude proved disastrous. The altitude sickness hit hard. The next morning, I felt absolutely terrible—driving while vomiting, then driving some more. This was the reality check about high-altitude travel.
Day 5: Bangda to Bomi—The 72 Turns
Despite feeling awful from altitude sickness, the drive from Bangda to Bomi was actually smooth—no landslides, no roadblocks. The famous 72-turn descent tested both our nerves and the car's brakes. We also crossed the viral "water-crossing" section where cars splash through a shallow river—great fun, though I managed to pick up a nail in my tire in the process.
Fortunately, I had brought an air pump. We inflated while driving for 20 kilometers until we found a tire repair shop—50 RMB (~$7) and we were back on the road. Along the way, we passed Ranwu Lake and Midui Glacier, though at this time of year, Midui was more about viewing snow-capped mountains than actual glacier hiking.
🎯 Practical Tip
Essential Gear: Portable tire inflator and basic repair kit
Why: Tire punctures are common on these rough roads
Cost: Repairs are cheap (~50 RMB / $7) if you can reach a shop
Day 6: Bomi to Nyingchi—The Switzerland of Tibet
The drive from Bomi to Nyingchi took us through some of Tibet's most beautiful scenery. We crossed the famous Tongmai Bridge (a popular photo spot), passed through Lulang Town—where I discovered the legendary Lulang Stone Pot Chicken (石锅鸡, Shíguō Jī), which was absolutely amazing. The pastoral landscapes here really earned the nickname "Switzerland of Tibet."
After crossing Serkhyim La Pass (色季拉山, Sèjìlā Shān), we continued past Ranwu Lake again before reaching Nyingchi. Unfortunately, we didn't get to see Namcha Barwa Peak (南迦巴瓦峰, Nánjiābāwǎ Fēng)—the famous "spear piercing the sky" mountain remained hidden in clouds. A disappointment, but reason to return.
Day 7: Nyingchi to Lhasa—First Major Sightseeing
We finally paid for our first major attraction—the Yarlung Tsangpo Grand Canyon (雅鲁藏布江大峡谷, Yǎlǔzàngbù Jiāng Dàxiágǔ) with a 240 RMB (~$35) ticket package. Honestly, the attraction itself was underwhelming, but the drive from Nyingchi to this point had been spectacular. The real highlight was the journey, not the destination.
After the canyon, we drove the free Lhasa-Nyingchi Expressway all the way to Lhasa—a smooth, modern highway that felt surreal after days of mountain passes. At one service station around 9 PM, it was pitch black and deserted. When two dogs suddenly ran toward us from the darkness, I was terrified—we jumped back in the car and drove off without using the bathroom. (Couldn't find it anyway in the dark!)
Day 8: Lhasa City Exploration
A full day exploring Lhasa! We visited Jokhang Temple (大昭寺, Dàzhāo Sì), walked around Barkhor Street (八廓街, Bākuò Jiē), and got those classic Tibetan-style photos. Here's something I didn't expect—the raw yak beef in Lhasa is incredibly delicious.
I have to be honest: modern Lhasa doesn't feel very "Tibetan" anymore. It's been largely taken over by Sichuanese migrants—most businesses and restaurants are run by people from Sichuan. Jokhang Temple wasn't as large as I imagined, but it was impressive. Most pilgrims come here to worship the Buddha Shakyamuni statue inside.
Day 9: Lhasa—Yamdrok Lake & Cultural Show
Another day exploring Lhasa, this time visiting Yamdrok Lake (羊卓雍措, Yángzhuō Yōngcuò)—one of Tibet's sacred lakes. After all the lakes we'd seen on the journey, Yamdrok still managed to impress with its stunning turquoise waters. Best part? No entrance fee required—don't let anyone at the gate convince you to buy tickets.
In the evening, we watched the "Princess Wencheng" large-scale cultural performance—a spectacular show that brings Tibetan history to life through music, dance, and stunning visuals. At 290 RMB (~$42), it was well worth it.
Day 10: Potala Palace—The Icon
The Potala Palace day. During COVID times, advance booking was essential. We toured about 20 chambers inside this architectural marvel. The palace is imposing—there are murals depicting the meeting between Emperor Shunzhi and the 5th Dalai Lama, numerous Buddha stupas, and countless treasures.
🎫 Booking Essential
Potala Palace: Must book tickets in advance
Entrance Fee: Around 200 RMB (~$29) depending on season
Time Limit: Visitors are limited to about 1 hour inside
Tip: Book online 1-7 days in advance during peak season
Day 11: Lhasa to Namtso Lake & Nagqu—Entering Qinghai-Tibet Highway
Today marked our official entry onto the Qinghai-Tibet Highway (Highway 109). The road to Namtso Lake (纳木错, Nàmù Cuò) was good, and we arrived around noon after a 7 AM departure. The entrance fee was 110 RMB (~$16).
Namtso is massive—you can't see the other side; it looks like the ocean. The water is incredibly clear and beautiful. After Namtso, we continued to Nagqu, which sits at 4,400 meters altitude. Here, we splurged on an oxygen-enriched hotel room (420 RMB / ~$60 per night)—absolutely worth it for a decent night's sleep. Since I was driving a sedan, we couldn't reach the famous "Saint Elephant Gate" (圣象天门) on the other side of the lake, but honestly, we didn't feel like we missed much.
Day 12: Nagqu to Golmud—The Toughest Day
This was the hardest day of the entire trip. We drove from Nagqu directly to Golmud, crossing Tanggula Pass (唐古拉山口), Tuotuo River, Hoh Xil (可可西里, Kěkěxīlǐ), and Kunlun Pass (昆仑山口, Kūnlún Shānkǒu). The entire route is above 4,500 meters—prepare for altitude sickness.
The landscapes were otherworldly: red rivers in Hoh Xil, snow-capped Kunlun Mountains, and the distinctive red mountains of Fenghuo Mountain. We even spotted Tibetan antelopes and wild donkeys. But Highway 109 is rough—massive potholes everywhere, constant bumping and jolting. My poor sedan scraped its undercarriage multiple times. Thank goodness I had installed a steel engine guard before the trip!
We arrived in Golmud exhausted at around 9 PM after 13+ hours of driving. This section truly tests both driver and vehicle.
⚠️ Critical Preparation
Engine Guard: Install a steel skid plate before attempting Highway 109
Why: Massive potholes will destroy your oil pan otherwise
Gas: Fill up whenever possible—stations are scarce
Altitude: Most of this day is above 4,500m—bring altitude sickness medication
Day 13: Golmud to Chaka Salt Lake & Xi'an Direction
From Golmud to Chaka Salt Lake (茶卡盐湖, Cháká Yánhú)—by this point, we had seen so many beautiful lakes that Chaka didn't wow us as much as it might have otherwise. We spent about two hours there before heading toward Xi'an.
Day 14: Arrival in Xi'an
We reached Xi'an and explored the famous Datang Everbright City (大唐不夜城)—a spectacular night scene with Tang Dynasty-themed performances and lights. We stayed right next to it (528 RMB / ~$75 per night) and enjoyed Xi'an's famous cuisine.
Day 15: Homeward Bound
The long drive home—our epic journey was complete.
Summary & Practical Tips
Can a Sedan Handle This?
Absolutely yes! I completed the entire route in a 1.6L sedan. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise. While a 4x4 SUV would be more comfortable and safer, a regular car can make it if you're careful and well-prepared.
The Reality of the Journey
This trip was dusty, exhausting, and full of challenges. Highway 318 has endless hairpin turns and frequent landslides. Highway 109 has fewer turns but countless potholes that will test your suspension and your patience.
Regrets & Missed Opportunities
My biggest regret: not having time to visit East Taijinar Lake (东台吉乃尔湖), Jade Lake (翡翠湖), and Water Yadan (水上雅丹) in Qinghai. These stunning locations require extra days that we didn't have.
Costs & Accommodation
Two people, 15 days, approximately 19,000 RMB (~$2,700 USD) total, or about 9,000 RMB (~$1,300 USD) per person. This included gas, accommodation, food, and tickets.
🏨 Accommodation Strategy
Golden Rule: Stay at the lowest altitude possible each night
Why: Altitude sickness hits hardest during sleep
Examples:
Stay in Batang (2,500m) instead of Litang (4,000m) Stay in Nyingchi (3,000m) instead of higher passes Splurge on oxygen-enriched hotels in high-altitude areas like Nagqu
Booking:
Book in advance during peak season (July-August)
Fuel & Supplies
Don't worry about fuel—there are gas stations along the entire route. We never had issues finding fuel. However:
Fill up whenever you drop below half a tank Carry extra water and snacks Pack altitude sickness medication (Diamox/Acetazolamide) Bring sunscreen, sunglasses, and warm clothes (temperatures vary dramatically)
The Bottom Line
"Read ten thousand books, travel ten thousand miles"—this journey taught me more than any book could. The Sichuan-Tibet and Qinghai-Tibet Highways offer some of the world's most spectacular driving, but they demand respect and preparation. If you're seeking adventure, challenge, and scenery that will change your perspective on nature's grandeur, this road trip delivers.
One day, I hope to traverse mountains and rivers with the person I love, watching the scenery slowly unfold across a lifetime...