I spent an unforgettable autumn day exploring Qixia Mountain (Qīxiá Shān) in Nanjing, where 40 varieties of maple trees transform the landscape into a living canvas of crimson, gold, and amber. Walking through the legendary "Kingdom of Maple Leaves" with my friends, I discovered why locals say "Autumn belongs to Qixia." From the breathtaking Hongye Valley with its ancient maples and mysterious rock formations to the enchanting night scenes illuminated by thousands of lights, this journey revealed a side of China's ancient capital that guidebooks rarely capture.
Trip Overview
When: Late October to Early November (Peak Autumn Foliage)
Duration: 1 day
Travelers: With friends
Budget: ~200 RMB (~$28 USD)
Transportation: Bus or Taxi within Nanjing
The Perfect Autumn Day at Qixia Mountain
When I first stepped into Qixia Mountain on that crisp late-October morning, I immediately understood why this place is called "Half of Jinling's History." The gentle autumn sunlight filtered through a canopy of maple leaves in every shade imaginable—brilliant crimson, burnished gold, and deep amber. The mountain air carried that distinctive crispness that makes autumn so special, and I couldn't help but feel my spirits lift with every breath.
My friends and I had chosen to visit during the 21st Annual Red Maple Art Festival, and the timing couldn't have been more perfect. As a local saying goes, "Spring belongs to Niushou, autumn belongs to Qixia," and I was about to discover exactly what that meant. We'd decided to wear traditional Hanfu robes for the occasion, and as we walked through the sea of colorful leaves, I felt like we'd stepped back centuries into ancient China.
🎯 Practical Info
Entry Fee: Varies by season (~40 RMB / ~$6 USD) Best Time: Late October to November for peak colors Address: 南京市栖霞区栖霞街88号 (88 Qixia Street, Qixia District, Nanjing) Festival: Annual Red Maple Art Festival (21st edition in 2021)
Phase One: The Kaleidoscope of Colors
Qixia Mountain's maple viewing season spans over two months and unfolds in three distinct phases. We arrived during the first phase—what locals call "Wǔcǎi Bānlán" (五彩斑斓), meaning "A Kaleidoscope of Colors." And what a kaleidoscope it was! With over 40 different maple species, each changing colors at slightly different times, the mountain looked like an artist's palette had exploded across the hillsides.
I found myself stopping every few steps just to take it all in. Unlike the somber autumn moods I was used to back home, this autumn felt vibrant and full of life. There was none of that lonely, melancholic feeling—instead, I felt energized and alive, surrounded by the most intense display of natural beauty I'd ever witnessed.
Hongye Valley: Where Ancient Maples Tell Stories
Following the winding trail upward, we reached Hongye Valley (红叶谷) or "Red Leaf Valley"—the absolute highlight of our journey. Nestled between the Imperial Garden and Fengxiang Peak, this hidden gem features bizarre rock formations, ancient maple trees that have stood for centuries, and twisted vines creating natural archways overhead.
Standing there among those ancient giants, I felt incredibly small yet deeply connected to something much larger than myself. My friend pointed out a particularly magnificent maple that must have been over 200 years old. Its gnarled branches stretched out like welcoming arms, covered in leaves that seemed to glow from within when the sunlight hit them just right.
🌸 The Three Phases of Maple Viewing
Phase 1 (Late Oct): "Kaleidoscope of Colors" – Most colorful period with multiple hues Phase 2 (Early Nov): "Layers of Color" – Deep reds and golds dominate Phase 3 (Mid Nov): "Ten Thousand Leaves Dancing" – Dramatic falling leaves
More Than Just Maples: The Art Festival
The Red Maple Art Festival, which has been running since 2001, has evolved far beyond just admiring leaves. This year's edition featured red-themed cultural exhibits, eco-tourism programs, educational workshops, historical storytelling sessions, and handmade cultural products. I was impressed by how thoughtfully the organizers had woven together nature appreciation with cultural experiences.
Unexpected Delights: Activities and Night Markets
What surprised me most was how much there was to do beyond hiking and photography. The festival organizers had created an entire "Maple Tribe Camp" (枫采部落营) filled with interactive games that delighted both children and adults. My friends and I spent a good hour trying our hand at traditional archery, playing an oversized flying checkers game, and attempting the ancient Chinese game of Touhu (投壶)—pitching arrows into a pot from a distance.
As the sun began to set, we stumbled upon the "Night Market at Sheshan" (摄山夜肆), a charming evening bazaar selling local handicrafts, souvenirs, and snacks. The atmosphere was electric—strings of lanterns cast warm glows over the stalls, the smell of street food filled the air, and the sound of laughter echoed through the cooling evening. I'm a sucker for night markets, and this one had me completely captivated. I picked up a beautiful hand-painted maple leaf bookmark as a memento.
The Night Concert: Maple Leaves Under the Stars
The absolute highlight of the evening was the "Night Maple Theme Concert." We settled into individual small tents set up like a pop-up campground, each with a perfect view of the stage. As traditional Chinese instruments blended with modern melodies, the surrounding maple trees were illuminated by carefully placed lights that made the leaves appear to change colors magically—shifting from green to gold to red to purple.
Lying back in my tent, listening to the hauntingly beautiful guqin music while watching the illuminated canopy above, I felt a profound sense of peace. This was the ancient China I'd read about in books—the refined culture, the appreciation of nature's fleeting beauty, the poetry of everyday moments.
🎭 Festival Activities
Interactive Games: Archery, flying checkers, Touhu (arrow pitching) Night Market: Local crafts, souvenirs, street food Evening Concert: Traditional and modern music under the maples Educational Programs: Workshops on local history and nature
A Place Steeped in History
As I explored further, I kept encountering reminders of Qixia's historical significance. The mountain has witnessed over 1,500 years of Chinese history, serving as a retreat for scholars, monks, and emperors alike. The saying "One Qixia Mountain holds half of Jinling's history" (一座栖霞山，半部金陵史) suddenly made perfect sense. Every path seemed to whisper stories of the past.
Walking back down the mountain in the cool night air, I reflected on how this day had exceeded every expectation. Qixia Mountain in autumn isn't just a pretty place to take photos—it's an immersive experience that engages all your senses and connects you deeply with Chinese culture and natural beauty.
Practical Tips for Your Visit
📝 Quick Reference
Getting There: Take Bus 206, 207, or 138 from downtown Nanjing; or take Metro Line 2 to Xianlin Center Station then transfer to bus Best Viewing Spots: Hongye Valley, Tiankai Rock, Taiping Square What to Wear: Comfortable walking shoes, layers for temperature changes Photography Tip: Arrive early morning or late afternoon for best light Food: Try local vegetarian dishes at the temple restaurants
Reflections: Why Qixia Stole My Heart
As our day at Qixia Mountain came to an end, I realized that this experience had changed my perspective on autumn travel. In the West, we often view autumn as a prelude to the harshness of winter—a time of endings and retreat. But here in Qixia, autumn felt like a celebration, a peak moment of beauty and abundance before renewal.
The combination of natural splendor, rich history, cultural activities, and the warmth of sharing it all with good friends made this one of my most treasured travel memories. As the famous saying goes, autumn truly does belong to Qixia. And now, a piece of my heart belongs there too.
So if you find yourself in Nanjing during autumn, don't miss this magical place. Come see the maple leaves in their full glory, walk the ancient paths, and create your own memories in this corner of paradise. Qixia awaits, and trust me—you won't regret answering its call.
At a Glance
Location: Qixia District, Nanjing, Jiangsu Province
Best Season: Late October to mid-November
Duration: Full day (including evening activities)
Budget: 200 RMB (~$28 USD) per person
Highlights: 40 maple varieties, 10km scenic trails, night concerts, cultural festival
Don't Miss: Hongye Valley at sunset and the Night Maple Concert