Trip Overview
When: Late March 2021 (spring, best weather for mountain visits)
Duration: 1 day
Travelers: A group of friends with park entry cards
Budget: ~150 RMB (~$21 USD) including ticket and extras
Transportation: Self-driving, parking available at underground lot
Essential Foreigner Info
Getting There: Niu Shou Mountain (牛首山) is located in Nanjing's Jiangning District. The scenic area has only one entrance now—the East Gate—since COVID restrictions. Drive and park in the underground garage; the elevator takes you directly to the ticket office.
Money Matters: Tickets are 98 RMB (~$14 USD). You can use mobile payment (WeChat/Alipay) at most venues. The free mask dispensers and convenience store near the ticket hall are nice touches.
Language: Most staff speak Mandarin. Key terms: 牛首山 (Niú Shǒu Shān), 佛顶前苑 (Fó Dǐng Qián Yuàn), 佛顶宫 (Fó Dǐng Gōng).
Pro Hack: The park offers several route options. We chose the "Highlight Route" which covers the main attractions efficiently. Arrive early to avoid tour groups—spring weekends get crowded!
Entering the Scenic Area
Walking out of the grand ticket hall, I notice the impressive facilities: automatic ticket machines, vending machines, and ATMs. Near the convenience store, there's a free mask self-service station—handy for anyone who forgot theirs. The Red Cross rescue station shows this is a well-established tourist destination.
The long exhibition boards introduce Jiangning's tourism highlights. One details Niu Shou Mountain's overview: located in Nanjing's Jiangning District, the mountain consists of several peaks including Niushan, Zutang Mountain, and others. It's a sacred Buddhist mountain, the birthplace of the Niutai Chan school. Around the mountain you'll find natural springs, caves, and historical sites like Hongjue Temple and the Zheng He Tomb.
Despite light rain, visitors keep coming—spring Niu Shou is clearly famous nationwide. Many tour groups with guides wander around. Nanjing has a saying: "Spring Niu Shou, Autumn Qixia." I'd always dismissed this, but now I understand the hype.
The ticket checkpoint. Since COVID, only the East Gate remains open. Even with drizzling rain, nothing stops people from enjoying spring at Niu Shou.
The East Gate's inner plaza is massive and distinctive, like a giant eagle spreading its wings.
We consult the recommended route map—several clear options. We choose the Highlight Route.
The Buddha's Front Garden (佛顶前苑)
A beautiful lake called Tingxin Lake (停心湖) sits before us, its surface misty like a fairyland. Colorful fish play happily in the clear waters. This scenic area has a lovely name—Buddha's Front Garden.
The misty lake looks like a graceful fairy gently caressing the landscape with a veil of thin fog.
We walk along the north side of Tingxin Lake in the gentle rain, not using umbrellas. The air is exceptionally fresh and moist—penetrating deep into my lungs. I greedily breathe in: the scent of soil, grass, flowers, and the mist from the lake... I want to hold onto all of it.
Among the greenery, clusters of small white flowers appear—elegant from afar, delicate up close. I search and find they have a fitting name: Pearl Spiraea (珍珠绣线菊).
Plum blossoms ready to bloom.
Throughout the scenic area, every few steps you'll find adorable, kind-faced little monk statues. Each monk has a different facial expression—worth examining closely.
This long pavilion has a beautiful name—Yumei Xuan (玉梅轩).
Workers maintaining the lake.
On the north side of the lake, a stone path leads up to a small hill with a peach grove—not yet in bloom.
Crossing Jixian Bridge (集贤桥), a five-arch bridge with beautiful curves connecting the east and west sides of Buddha's Front Garden.
The bridge features cloud-pattern lion carvings at the ends for peace and good fortune. The railings use auspicious cloud patterns carved with openwork, making the bridge look elegant and airy.
Viewing from the bridge—a spring scene with reeds, and the tree trunks have a weathered, beautiful quality.
Looking out from the bridge, the distant mountain (Niu Shou) appears blue-green while the lake water is crystal clear below.
The scenery is serene and beautiful—distant mountains, a distant pagoda, the nearby lake, open lawns, bamboo paths, streams, and rocks... together forming a beautiful mountain-lake ink painting.
Looking at layered peaks up close, grass and trees in profusion, listening to flowing water—the scenery is intoxicating.
From another angle, the openness is striking. Staring quietly at this scene, I suddenly understand—"Tingxin" (停心, meaning "stop the heart") probably means to slow down, appreciate the scenery before you, feel the things around you, and deeply ponder life.
Looking back toward the scenic area.
The lake island and wooden walkway combine artfully, winding and arranged in layers.
The beautiful scenery becomes even more vivid with people in the frame.
We cross Jixian Bridge to the south side of Tingxin Lake.
Walking alongside the lake, every step reveals a new scene. On the artificial rock mountain, there's a "Ten Ox Paintings" mural, created by Song Dynasty monk Kuangyan Shiyuan. The "Ten Ox Paintings" depict the process of taming an ox through ten pictures.
In front of the rock mountain, there's an area of white sesame stone with five stone oxen in various poses.
Viewing Jixian Bridge from before the Ten Ox Paintings.
Every step reveals a different view.
Looking back at Tingxin Lake from Fahua Square.
This large yellow-green lawn square has a spiral, sunken terrain. Stone water channels follow the slope, with pebbles creating rippling water sounds. A tulip tree dots the center. This square also has a beautiful name—Xinlian Square (心莲广场, Heart Lotus Square). Not far away stands the majestic architectural complex of Fotu Temple. The square creates a pure, natural scene before the temple.
The outermost circular road leads to Fotu Temple.
Final Thoughts
This is the first course of Niu Shou Mountain's deep, diverse culture—Buddha's Front Garden. The garden's grand scenery is magnificent and elegant, giving me a feeling of grandeur with restrained elegance. I have a habit when writing travel journals: for two-day trips, I introduce each scenic spot separately. For Nanjing city scenery, I usually finish in one comprehensive article. When preparing this Niu Shou Mountain journal, looking at so many photos and content, I felt at a loss where to start. So I'll follow the format of my out-of-town travel journals. That's why this first introduction of Niu Shou Mountain ends here—to be continued.