Trip Overview
When: March 2021 (spring, pleasant weather)
Duration: 1 day
Travelers: Self-driving trip
Budget: ~200 RMB (~$28 USD) including tickets and transport
Transportation: Self-drive to Niushou Mountain East Gate
Essential Foreigner Info
Getting There: Niushou Mountain is located in Nanjing (南京), about 30 minutes from downtown. Rent a car or take a taxi to East Gate of the scenic area. Parking is available.
Ticket: 98 RMB (~$14 USD) for full park entry
Language: Most signage has English, but learning a few Chinese phrases helps: 佛顶寺 (Fó Dǐng Sì - Foding Temple), 牛首山 (Niú Shǒu Shān - Niushou Mountain)
Best Time: Spring and autumn for comfortable walking. The temple complex is outdoors, so avoid extreme heat.
Day 1: Exploring Foding Temple at Niushou Mountain
Our route today: East Gate → Foding Qianyuan (Temple Front Garden) → Foding Temple → Ming Dynasty Cliff Carvings → Niutou Zen Cultural Garden → Foding Pagoda → Foding Palace → Worry-Free Gate Square → Return via East Gate.
Walking time: 2021.3
Mode: Self-driving
Address: Niushou Mountain Scenic Area, Nanjing (南京牛首山风景区)
Ticket: 98 RMB
Following the stone-paved path, we arrive at the famous Foding Temple nestled in the mountains. This Tang-dynasty-style complex follows traditional central axis layout, with layers of buildings nestled among green peaks, their upturned corners creating a picturesque skyline.
The thriving incense in the temple courtyard's censer represents people's prayers and best wishes. Connecting the censer to the mountain gate is a stone bridge with a release pond beneath.
On both sides of the release pond are ten water-spraying dragon heads—one of the dragon's nine sons, called Paxia (趴蝮). The bridge entrances feature lifelike dragon sculptures.
Crossing the bridge and climbing the steps, a bronze censer stands prominently in the center.
Here we reach the mountain gate of Foding Temple (佛顶寺). The lintel displays golden-touched characters "佛顶寺" in relief, and two majestic stone lions guard the gate. I remember passing by Niushou Mountain years ago when this temple didn't exist yet. The temple was started in 2012 and fully completed in 2015—a reconstructed cultural site.
Looking back from beneath the mountain gate
Passing through the mountain gate, we see the impressive building complex above. The temple is built into the mountain, with several pine trees accompanying the front stone carving "Assembly at Mount Lanka," depicting Buddha Shakyamuni teaching at Gridhrakuta Mountain. The central hall is the Heavenly King Hall (天王殿), with Bell Tower (钟楼) and Drum Tower (鼓楼) standing on either side.
On the east side between the mountain gate and Heavenly King Hall stands a royal-style triple-lion monument with麒麟 carvings beneath—remarkable craftsmanship.
The temple's garden-style architecture is exquisite and delicate, with灵动 charm everywhere.
The realistic expressions of the mythical beasts
The sounds of bells and chimes
The stacked roof of the Heavenly King Hall
The rear view of the Heavenly King Hall
Behind the Heavenly King Hall, at a higher elevation, stands the Grand Hall of the Great Heroes (大雄宝殿). The浮雕 in front depicts the scene welcoming and enshrining the sacred relics. There are three plaques in front of the Grand Hall: center reads "万德庄严" (Majestic Virtue), one side shows "佛日增辉" (Buddhist Light Growing), and the other "普度众生" (Saving All Beings).
On the east side of the Grand Hall is the Founder's Hall (祖师殿)
On the west side is the珈蓝殿
Exquisite and heavy stone carvings
The Grand Hall of the Great Heroes
From the platform in front of the Grand Hall, we can see the Heavenly King Hall with its Bell and Drum Towers on either side. Morning bells and evening drums—108 tolls in the morning, chanting the "Bell Verse," praying for national prosperity and favorable weather.
The imposing closed doors
Blessings seen everywhere
The area beyond the Grand Hall is currently closed to visitors.
We could only look up from the sides of the Grand Hall and descend toward the mountain gate. Foding Temple, built into the mountain, covers a large area, divided into five functional zones: worship, preaching, dining, monks' quarters, and tea garden. Geographically, it divides into north and south areas—the north area is what we've been touring, including worship and preaching zones, mainly palace-style layout following the traditional Zen Buddhist "Seven Halls" system. The south area beyond the Grand Hall, currently off-limits, includes tea garden, monks' quarters, and dining areas. It's遗憾 we couldn't see the entire temple in one visit. Perhaps like all things in life, not everything can be understood at once.
Viewing the Grand Hall from this angle makes it appear even more massive.
The temple's landscape is also meticulously designed, full of Zen atmosphere. Looking at these adorable little monk statues, my heart fills with childlike joy.
Tranquility
Leaving the temple complex and walking through the beautiful park, the spring scenery of pink peach blossoms and green bamboo is refreshing and delightful.
The impressive Foding Temple archway
Clear signposts guide our way.
This is the park bus stop, where you can catch buses to other attractions in the park.
We chose to continue walking. By now, the rain had completely stopped, and we proceeded through the post-rain refreshment. Breathing the fresh mountain air, listening to the wind rustling through the trees—being in nature is wonderful.
Looking up along the way, the building clusters on the hilltops are the temple's southern area—currently inaccessible to visitors.
From here, we can see the twin pagodas standing in the mountains ahead—that's our next destination. Continue walking with me!