I spent two unforgettable days exploring Nanjing, China's ancient capital that seamlessly blends imperial history with modern vitality. Cruising the lantern-lit Qinhuai River at dusk, feeling the mountain breeze atop Purple Mountain's observatory, and wandering through the restored hutongs of Laomendong—this journey revealed why Nanjing has captivated travelers for millennia. From the bustling Confucius Temple district to the quiet grandeur of the Ming City Wall, every corner told a story of China's complex past. If you're seeking a destination that offers both iconic landmarks and hidden neighborhood gems, Nanjing delivers an experience that lingers long after you've boarded your flight home.
Trip Overview
When: July 2020 (Summer)
Duration: 2 days
Travelers: With friends
Budget: ~1,500 RMB (~$210 USD)
Transportation: Metro + Taxi
Day 1: Arrival at the Qinhuai River
My journey to Nanjing was completely spontaneous. After months of nonstop work, I suddenly needed to escape—the destination mattered less than the act of going itself. When a friend mentioned they had business nearby, we made the decision in minutes. No overthinking, no elaborate planning. We booked flights and suddenly found ourselves in one of China's most historically significant cities.
My memories of Nanjing from twenty years ago were fragmented at best: the endless stone steps of Sun Yat-sen's Mausoleum, colorful rain flower stones at Yuhuatai, and the wise gaze of Confucius's statue at the Confucius Temple. This time, I wanted to skip the familiar tourist sites and discover what had changed. Some quick research revealed Nanjing's tourism has evolved dramatically. The city is now organized around "one river, one wall, one lake, one mountain"—the Qinhuai River (秦淮河 Qínhuái Hé), the Ming City Wall, Xuanwu Lake, and Purple Mountain (钟山风景区 Zhōngshān Fēngjǐngqū). Add to that the newly developed Laomendong neighborhood and the Nanjing Eye Bridge, and you have a city that respects its past while embracing the future.
I couldn't believe my luck with the hotel location. I stayed at the Jinjiang Metropolo Hotel near Confucius Temple, just a five-minute walk from the commercial district. The lobby, though compact, created an striking atmosphere—scholarly elegance met modern lighting design in a way that immediately signaled this wouldn't be an ordinary trip.
Practical Info
Hotel: Jinjiang Metropolo Nanjing Confucius Temple Location: 5 min walk to Confucius Temple, near metro Area: Surrounded by restaurants, shops, transport
After dropping my bags, I headed out immediately—adventure was calling, and my stomach was growling. Within minutes, I spotted the iconic archway of Confucius Temple. Like any proper tourist, I snapped a photo to prove I'd arrived.
A nearby restaurant caught my eye—spicy Sichuan fish and tomato beef with an ice-cold beer. There's something profoundly satisfying about simple pleasures when you're traveling: good food, good company, and the feeling that the world has opened up before you.
Fully satisfied, I strolled toward the Confucius Temple pedestrian street. Yes, it's touristy—much like commercial districts you'll find in ancient towns across China—but the Qinhuai River's cultural heritage elevates it. This stretch of river represents the essence of Qinhuai's scenic beauty. Boat tours glide past historic residences, ancient bridges, and traditional lanterns. The day cruises cost 60 RMB (~$8.50), evening cruises 80 RMB (~$11). I considered joining the queue, but the line was impossibly long. Instead, I found a spot along the riverbank and simply watched. As night fell, the river came alive with red lanterns reflecting on the water, the murmur of crowds, and a gentle breeze. Sometimes the best experiences come from simply being present.
Day 2: Purple Mountain and the City Wall
The next morning, I skipped the cable car and took a taxi from Gangzicun Metro Station directly up Purple Mountain. Within minutes, I arrived at the Purple Mountain Observatory entrance. The 15 RMB (~$2) admission felt like a steal. After climbing just five minutes of stone steps, I reached the exhibition areas.
The Observatory houses several exhibition halls: astronomical photography, meteorite displays, art exhibitions, and educational exhibits. It's cool, peaceful, and surprisingly uncrowded. Even without specialized knowledge, I found myself drawn into the wonders of astronomy. It's the perfect place to bring children for an educational yet enjoyable experience.
But the true revelation came when I climbed the final stone steps to the upper platform. A cool breeze greeted me, and suddenly the view opened up completely. This is what makes Purple Mountain unforgettable—the panoramic vista of Nanjing spread before me. On one side, the full sweep of Zhongshan Mountain stretched toward the distant Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum and Ming Xiaoling Tomb. On the other, Xuanwu Lake shimmered below. The combination of lake, mountain, and urban landscape created that rare "king of the world" feeling that explains why people become addicted to mountain climbing. The weather was unbelievably perfect—cool, humid, with gentle breezes. In the middle of summer, finding such comfortable conditions while gazing at such beauty felt like a gift. I wanted the wind to tangle my clothes and time to stand still.
Descending the mountain, I had hoped to visit the botanical gardens at the base, but they were closed for maintenance. Disappointed but undeterred, I headed to Nanjing Impressions at Shiziqiao for lunch. My friend had questioned the value of chasing "internet-famous" restaurants, arguing that the journey matters more than the destination. I disagreed—travel is about discovering the unknown, and the anticipation of searching for these places brings its own joy. Even disappointment is part of the experience.
Practical Info
Restaurant: Nanjing Impressions (南京大牌档 Nánjīng Dàpáidàng) Location: Shiziqiao Branch Style: Traditional Nanjing cuisine in heritage setting Price: Mid-range, portions on smaller side
Nanjing Impressions exceeded my expectations. Despite the name suggesting a street food stall, the decor is elegant, the service refined, and the menu beautifully presented. The portions were modest but the quality justified the price—certainly better value than typical tourist traps. After devouring my meal, I finished with aged Shaoxing wine, thoroughly satisfied.
Fueled and ready, I entered Xuanwu Lake Park through Xuanwu Gate. Health code check complete, I was in. The park is expansive—like East Lake in Wuhan or West Lake in Hangzhou. You can walk or take electric carts. Lotus flowers were in bloom, and from the lakeside, I could spot Nanjing's tallest landmark building. After a brief stroll, I moved on to my next destination.
I still had the Nanjing Eye Bridge on my list, but checking the map revealed it was over 10 kilometers away. Fatigue was setting in, so I made a decision that experienced travelers learn to embrace: I let it go. Sometimes leaving something for next time is wiser than forcing exhaustion. Life is full of such small regrets that eventually create a complete picture.
With time still on my side, I returned to the Confucius Temple district's core area for evening explorations. The neon-lit nightscape was spectacular. Passing through Xinjiekou, another of Nanjing's iconic commercial zones, I was reminded that every Chinese city has these bustling districts selling the same products to tourists from across the country.
Day 3 Morning: Laomendong and the City Wall
After a restful night, I woke naturally and walked to Laomendong, an emerging historical and cultural district. Located east of Zhonghua Gate, this area preserves authentic Jiangnan architecture. Unlike the overwhelming crowds at Confucius Temple, Laomendong offers tranquility. The developers have meticulously restored historical residences including the Jiang Shoushan Residence and Fu Shanxiang Residence, along with the Shangjiang Examination Hall and Junhui Academy.
Winding through the crisscrossing alleys, I found myself surrounded by traditional Jiangnan-style houses with whitewashed walls and black-tiled roofs. Walking along the bluestone paths, I felt the pulse of generations of Nanjing residents flowing through every brick, every tile, every bridge, every well. This is where the city's soul lives.
From Laomendong, it's just steps to Zhonghua Gate and the Ming City Wall. The wall is impressively massive and tall—walking the entire length would take a full day. I focused on the Zhonghua Gate Barbican section, which reportedly has 27 hidden soldier caves capable of housing over 3,000 troops. It's considered the world's largest barbican, significant in military, historical, cultural, and architectural terms. Standing on the wall looking down at Laomendong, I saw nothing but peaceful rooftops, far removed from the urban noise below—a rare moment of serenity in a bustling city.
Practical Info
Location: Zhonghua Gate (中华门 Zhōnghuámén) Feature: World's largest barbican city gate Hidden Caves: 27 soldier caves for 3,000+ troops History: Ming Dynasty military architecture
Standing atop the city wall, I gazed toward the spire of the rebuilt Porcelain Tower of Nanjing, reluctant to bid farewell to this ancient capital. Half of life's journeys are about pursuing beauty along the road. With a final toast of green plum wine, I looked forward to my next adventure, carrying Nanjing's memories with me.
Travel Tips for Nanjing
Best Time to Visit
Spring (March-May): Comfortable temperatures, blooming flowers Autumn (September-November): Clear skies, golden ginkgo trees Avoid: Summer heat and winter dampness
Getting Around
Metro: Extensive network connecting major attractions Taxi/DD: Affordable and convenient Walking: Many sites are walkable in the city center
Must-Try Food
Salted duck (盐水鸭 Yánshuǐ Yā) - Nanjing's signature dish Duck blood vermicelli soup (鸭血粉丝汤 Yāxuè Fěnsī Tāng) Pan-fried beef dumplings (牛肉锅贴 Niúròu Guōtiē) Tofu dumplings (豆腐涝 Dòufu Lào)
Budget Breakdown (2 Days)
Accommodation: 300-600 RMB/night (~$42-85) Food: 200-400 RMB/day (~$28-57) Attractions: 100-200 RMB total (~$14-28) Transport: 50-100 RMB (~$7-14)