Trip Overview
When: June 2020 (rainy season—embrace the drizzle!)
Duration: 3 days
Travelers: Couple
Budget: ~1,500 RMB (~$210 USD)
Transportation: Self-driving from Shanghai
Essential Foreigner Info
Getting There: Shanghai to Nanjing via Huhang Expressway (沪宁高速), about 4 hours drive. Note: Expressways can get crowded during holiday periods.
Money Matters: Mobile payment (WeChat Pay, Alipay) is dominant in Nanjing. Most restaurants, hotels, and attractions accept digital payment. Bring 200-300 RMB cash for small vendors who might not have QR codes.
Language: Mandarin is universally understood. Younger staff at tourist spots speak some English. Download an offline map or translation app before visiting—Google Maps works but can be spotty.
Transportation: Nanjing's Metro (地铁) is excellent and the most convenient way to get around the city. Lines 1, 2, 3, and 4 cover most major attractions. Use the app "Nanjing Metro" or Alipay's transit function.
Weather Reality: June is plum rain season (梅雨季)—expect intermittent showers. Don't let rain ruin your plans; Nanjing in rain has its own poetic charm!
Day 1: Arrival and Historical Wander
We set off from Shanghai on the morning of June 15, 2020. The expressway was a washout—pun intended—heavy rain greeted us as we entered Jiangsu Province. But nothing was going to stop our Nanjing adventure!
By afternoon, we arrived at our destination: Nanjing Greenland Financial Center (南京紫峰大厦), the iconic skyscraper that dominates the skyline. We checked into our pre-booked hotel right downstairs—super convenient with the metro station literally at the building's doorstep. Gulou Station (鼓楼站) is just a stone's throw away.
Foreigner tip: The area around Purple Peak Tower (紫峰大厦) is modern and well-connected. This is a great base for exploring northern Nanjing.
With car parked and bags dropped, we officially started our Nanjing tour. From Gulou Station, we caught Line 4 towards Xianlin Lake—just one stop to Jiming Temple Station (鸡鸣寺站).
Jiming Temple (古鸡鸣寺): The ancient temple's unique architecture immediately impressed us. Due to pandemic restrictions, only part of the temple was open, and visitors had to follow a strict one-way path. Still, the atmosphere was serene.
Despite the rain, there were plenty of worshippers—interestingly, mostly women. Locals say Jiming Temple is famous for finding love matches. (Looks like I need to spread the word back home!)
Reality check: Because of COVID-19, temple access was limited. Check current policies before visiting.
Just around the corner from Jiming Temple lies the Ming City Wall (明城墙)—one of the best-preserved ancient city walls in China. Built nearly 600 years ago, these walls still stand proud.
Those bricks have stories to tell. Look closely—you might spot names of the craftsmen who made them, a traditional practice ensuring quality accountability.
Beyond the wall spreads Xuanwu Lake (玄武湖), one of Nanjing's largest lakes. We walked along the lakeside paths, surrounded by ancient plane trees—their lush canopies were intoxicating.
The lake was once a Ming Dynasty naval training ground. Today, it's a peaceful retreat where locals practice tai chi, dance, and fish.
The lotus flowers were about to bloom—delicate and elegant, like nature's own sculptures.
Cosmos flowers added splashes of vibrant color, as if mourning spring's departure or celebrating youth itself.
Walking along the lake, we reached the iconic Xuanwu Gate (玄武门).
Hilarious moment: Every time we visit Xuanwu Gate, we overhear guys telling their dates the story of Li Shimin and the Xuanwu Gate Incident from Tang Dynasty history—except it's the Xi'an one, not Nanjing! And without fail, the storytellers are guys, the listeners are ladies. We couldn't stop laughing!
After a full day of exploring, we headed back to the hotel. The rain had stopped—perfect timing for some exterior shots of Purple Peak Tower!
For dinner, we went old-school local—Nanjing Daban Ting (南京大牌档) at Purple Peak Plaza. Authentic Nanjing cuisine, super affordable, and incredibly tasty.
Pro hack: This chain is famous for local favorites like duck blood soup (鸭血粉丝汤), salted duck (盐水鸭), and lion's head meatballs (狮子头). Great for first-time visitors wanting to sample Nanjing specialties in one place.
Day 2: Presidential Palace and Ancient Sites
June 16—rainy but calmer. We slept in (vacation mode: ON). Originally planned to try Nanjing wonton soup (南京小馄饨) for breakfast, but pandemic concerns made us play it safe. Next time!
The hotel bed was heavenly—the bedding quality is truly top-tier. Sometimes the best travel memories are the simple things, right?
By midday, weather had cleared enough for adventure. We took Line 4 one stop to Jiming Temple, transferred to Line 3 for two stops to Daxinggong Station (大行宫站)—and just steps away from the Presidential Palace (总统府).
Presidential Palace (总统府): This site has served as the headquarters for China's provisional government, the Kuomintang, and Sun Yat-sen's provisional government. The three characters "总统府" were a mystery for 66 years—recently verified as written by Zhou Zhongyue.
The famous "天下为公" (The World Belongs to the People) plaque—we waited forever to get a shot without people! How many visitors snap photos without knowing what it means?
The Sen Building (森字楼) has appeared in many films and TV shows. The gardens have a peaceful, artistic vibe.
The quiet waterside pavilions were perfect for contemplation.
This lion seems a bit mischievous...
Just outside the palace exit is 1912 Block (1912街区), a trendy bar and dining district. Perfect for a snack break before continuing!
Next stop: Da Bao En Temple (大报恩寺). From Daxinggong, Line 2 one stop to Xinjiekou (新街口), transfer to Line 1 for three stops to Zhonghuamen Station (中华门站).
The area around this station? Honestly, the dirtiest, most chaotic street we saw in Nanjing. But the glass pagoda of Da Bao En Temple was visible from afar, calling us forward. It's only a 10-minute walk!
Da Bao En Temple Relic Park (大报恩寺遗址公园): This is a modern reconstruction—hence "Relic Park." The original was the magnificent Porcelain Pagoda, destroyed during the Taiping Rebellion. Only a few fragments remain, like this archway.
Modern engineers couldn't rebuild the original, so they created a striking steel-and-glass structure. Love it or hate it, the design is impressive.
Reality check: There are few original artifacts left. The experience is more about modern architecture and reflection than historical relics. Still worth visiting for the unique design.
Reflection: Da Bao En Temple made us appreciate how important education is for rural children. The temple's founder, funded by a wealthy merchant, believed in empowering the next generation through learning.
We wanted to see the pagoda lit up at night, but the area around the temple has zero dining options or cafés. We couldn't wait around—time to head to Laomen East (老门东) for food!
Tourist buses were suspended due to the pandemic, but regular buses to Laomen East worked fine—just 2 stops. The bus passed through Zhonghuamen Gate and under the city wall—cool experience!
Laomen East (老门东): This area was developed from old neighborhood preservation. Many buildings are now boutique hotels or hanfu photo studios (lots of girls in traditional Chinese dresses taking photos!). Some traditional courtyard houses have been converted to guesthouses—most were closed due to pandemic.
Most shops were closed. We pivoted and walked along Madao Street (马道街) to a local favorite: Pingzi Restaurant (瓶子菜馆) in Xinannanli (熙南里). The riverside scenery along the way was lovely!
Dinner at Pingzi Restaurant (瓶子菜馆): A local friend recommended this place, and it didn't disappoint—excellent dishes, authentic flavor, and reasonable prices. Another local favorite is Little Chef Girl (小厨娘)—also highly rated.
Since Xinannanli is near Confucius Temple (夫子庙), we continued there for a post-dinner stroll. The rain had stopped—perfect for walking off dinner!
Confucius Temple (夫子庙) at night: The area was surprisingly lively! The lighting on the Imperial Academy (学宫) was beautiful.
Back to the hotel via metro: Line 3 from Confucius Temple 4 stops to Jiming Temple, transfer to Line 4, 1 stop to Gulou. Easy!
Senior alert: If you're traveling with elderly, the metro is MUCH easier than taxis or buses. Nanjing's metro network is extensive and well-maintained. We should be grateful for modern infrastructure that genuinely improves daily life.
Day 3: Zhongshan Mountain and Farewell
June 17—finally sunny! But temperatures jumped. Last day of our Nanjing wander: Zhongshan Scenic Area, then home via expressway.
Check-out after breakfast. Pro tip: Hotel parking is FREE for guests. We set导航 for Zhongshan Scenic Area Tourist Service Center—a large parking lot.
Navigation got confused and tried routing us through suspicious detours. After some back-and-forth, we found the right way—frustrating but manageable.
Zhongshan Scenic Area (钟山景区): Massive area covering Sun Yat-sen's Mausoleum, Ming Xiaoling Tomb, Meiling Palace, and more. At the service center, the ticket lady was incredibly impatient and unhelpful. No clarity on reservations or how to enter.
Decision: Skip the chaos—head straight to Meiling Palace (美龄宫) instead. No parking there either, but the security guard kindly pointed to a paid parking lot 50 meters away. His directions were clear, his attitude warm. Five stars!
Meiling Palace (美龄宫): This building is stunning—Chinese architectural soul meets Western manor elegance. A masterpiece of Republican-era architecture, reflecting its distinguished owners.
Those plane trees lining the drive—the former First Lady was clearly a fan. The result is absolutely gorgeous.
The interior ceiling detail was exquisite.
Whose vintage car is this? Probably just a prop now.
Reality check: Interior exhibits felt like peeking into someone's home—photographing felt intrusive. We respected the space.
The banquet hall's underfloor heating? Absolute luxury! They were way ahead of their time.
From Meiling Palace, a short walk leads to Ming Xiaoling Tomb (明孝陵) and Sifangcheng (四方城).
Sifangcheng (四方城): Houses a massive stele erected by Yongle Emperor (永乐皇帝) for his father, Hongwu Emperor (太祖朱元璋).
Philosophical thought: Did building such a huge stele ease a son's psychological burden? Interesting question...
Then comes the famous Avenue of Stone Figures (石像路)—the most scenic part of Ming Xiaoling.
Pro tip: This avenue is stunning in autumn when ginkgo trees turn golden. Plan a fall return trip!
This archway is gorgeous too!
Ming Xiaoling is huge—walking the full area is tiring under the blazing sun. We opted for an electric cart back to Sifangcheng. Smart decision!
Originally planned: Music Terrace (音乐台) and Lingxu Temple (灵谷寺). But time was running low, and energy was spent. Sometimes leaving something for next time is wise.
Homeward bound via Huhang Expressway!
Epilogue
This Nanjing trip was spontaneous—pure relaxation and wandering. The rainy season meant no stunning natural scenery, but Nanjing's historical sites shine regardless.
Nanjing's best seasons: Spring and autumn. The saying goes: "Spring at Niushou Mountain, Autumn at Qixia" (春牛首, 秋栖霞)—for good reason. Qixia's crimson maple leaves in fall are legendary.
Hope: May the pandemic end soon. Next time, we'll return in autumn for Qixia red leaves and the Avenue of Stone Figures' golden ginkgos.