I spent an unforgettable day exploring Kaifeng, a city that once stood as the world's most magnificent capital during the Northern Song Dynasty. Walking through the towering Iron Pagoda that has survived earthquakes, floods, and centuries of history, then ascending the Dragon Pavilion where emperors once ruled, I felt transported back to China's golden age. This journey revealed a side of Chinese history that guidebooks rarely capture—the resilience of ancient architecture and the layers of civilization buried beneath our feet.
Trip Overview
When: June 2021
Duration: 1 day
Travelers: With friends
Budget: ~100 RMB (~$15 USD)
Transportation: Walking + Local transport
Morning: The Iron Pagoda (Tieta)
When I first arrived at the Iron Pagoda Park (Tieta Gongyuan, 铁塔公园), I couldn't help but stare up in awe. Despite its name, this isn't actually made of iron at all—it's a magnificent glazed tile pagoda that has earned its metallic moniker from its iron-grey appearance and incredibly robust presence.
Standing 55.88 meters tall with thirteen stories, this octagonal masterpiece dates back to the Northern Song Dynasty (around 1073-1077 AD). What struck me most wasn't just its height, but the fact that it has survived 43 earthquakes, numerous floods, and nearly a thousand years of weather. When I learned about the engineering wisdom behind it—the glazed tiles that prevent lightning strikes, the innovative arched doorways that distribute weight—I gained a new appreciation for Song Dynasty ingenuity.
The pagoda's exterior features 28 different types of molded glazed bricks, each depicting intricate patterns that have somehow survived the centuries. As I walked around the base, I noticed how each level slightly recedes from the one below, creating that distinctive tapering effect that makes the tower appear even more majestic.
🎯 Practical Info: Iron Pagoda
Entry Fee: ~40 RMB (~$6 USD) Best Time: Morning (before 10 AM to avoid crowds) Duration: 1-1.5 hours Don't Miss: The "Yingjie Hall" (接引殿) in front of the pagoda, built in 1986 to house a Northern Song Dynasty Buddha statue
Before leaving, I spent some time in the park surrounding the pagoda. It's beautifully landscaped with traditional Chinese gardens, making it a peaceful contrast to the ancient stone structure rising above.
Afternoon: Dragon Pavilion (Longting)
After exploring the Iron Pagoda, I headed west through Kaifeng's famous Song Dynasty Imperial Street (Songdu Yujie, 宋都御街), making my way to the Dragon Pavilion Park (Longting Gongyuan, 龙亭公园) at the northern end of Zhongshan Road. If you visit Beijing and must see the Forbidden City, then in Kaifeng, you absolutely cannot miss Longting.
The history here is absolutely mind-boggling. As I walked through the gates, I learned that this site has served as:
The Yongping Military Governor's office during the Tang Dynasty (780-805 AD) The imperial palace for five successive dynasties (Later Liang, Later Jin, Later Han, Later Zhou) The imperial city (Da Nei, 大内) during the Northern Song Dynasty The imperial examination grounds (Gongyuan, 贡院) starting in 1659
Standing on the same ground where emperors once walked gave me chills. The current structures date back to the Qing Dynasty, but the location's significance spans over a millennium.
The park is surrounded by water on three sides, with the Pan Yang Lakes (Panjia Hu and Yangjia Hu) creating a mirror-like reflection of the pavilion. According to local legend, the eastern Pan Lake has muddy water while the western Yang Lake remains clear—a symbolic division between the treacherous official Pan Renmei and the loyal general Yang Yejia from Chinese folklore.
Crossing the Jade Belt Bridge (Yudai Qiao, 玉带桥)—a 40-meter long, 18-meter wide structure that gracefully curves across the water—I made my way toward the main pavilion. The bridge gets its name from its appearance, curving like a jade belt across the shimmering lake.
Walking through the Songhu (Mountain Call) gate—a traditional ceremonial structure where local officials would bow toward the emperor's tablet—I caught my first glimpse of the Dragon Pavilion itself. The sight of the pavilion rising above the lake, framed by traditional architecture, took my breath away.
🎯 Practical Info: Dragon Pavilion
Entry Fee: ~35 RMB (~$5 USD) Best Time: Late afternoon for golden hour photography Duration: 2-3 hours Fun Activity: You can rent imperial costumes and take photos on the throne!
And speaking of fun—yes, I couldn't resist! For a small fee, I got to dress up in traditional imperial dragon robes and sit on a replica throne. It was a bit touristy, but honestly? It was absolutely worth it for the photos and the experience of "being emperor for five minutes."
Quick Reference Guide
Getting There
From Zhengzhou: High-speed train to Kaifeng (20 minutes), then taxi or bus Within Kaifeng: Both sites are accessible by local bus or taxi Between Sites: Walk through Song Dynasty Imperial Street (about 2-3 km) or take a taxi
Best Time to Visit
Spring (March-May): Pleasant weather, blooming flowers Autumn (September-November): Cool temperatures, clear skies Avoid: Summer heat and winter cold
What Makes Kaifeng Special
Kaifeng's history is literally layered beneath your feet. Archaeological evidence shows at least four ancient cities are buried beneath the current city—a "city upon city" phenomenon created by the Yellow River's flooding and sedimentation over centuries. While you can't see these underground layers, walking through Kaifeng gives you a sense of how deeply history runs here.
Why These Two Sites Matter
Unlike the reconstructed Qingming Shanghe Yuan (which, while beautiful, is a modern creation), the Iron Pagoda and Dragon Pavilion are authentic survivors from imperial China. They've witnessed the rise and fall of dynasties, survived natural disasters, and continue to stand as testaments to Chinese architectural genius and cultural resilience.