I spent two delicious days exploring Kaifeng, an ancient capital that most international foodies haven't discovered yet. Walking through streets that have served emperors for over 4,000 years, I tasted five legendary dishes that have defined this city's culinary identity—from century-old soup dumplings that burst with savory broth to a patriotic sweet potato mash with a hilarious diplomatic backstory. Kaifeng's food scene isn't just about eating; it's about experiencing centuries of history on every plate. If you're a traveler who believes the best way to understand a culture is through its cuisine, this hidden gem in Henan Province will surprise you at every turn.
Trip Overview
When: July (Summer)
Duration: 2 days
Travelers: With friends
Budget: ~1,000 RMB (~$140 USD) per person
Transportation: Local taxi + Walking
Day 1: Stepping into History
When I first arrived in Kaifeng (开封, Kāifēng), I couldn't believe this unassuming city was once the capital of eight different Chinese dynasties. Known historically as Daliang, Bianzhou, Dongjing, and Bianjing, this 4,100-year-old city sits on the Yellow River's floodplain in eastern Henan Province. The constant flooding over millennia has created what's known as a "suspended river"—the Yellow River actually flows above the city level, creating a unique geographical situation that has shaped everything here, including its food.
Kaifeng is considered the birthplace of Yu cuisine (豫菜, Yù Cài), one of China's major culinary traditions. The city's precarious position relative to the Yellow River has made its people creative and resourceful with food—always ready to adapt and preserve ingredients, always finding ways to create something extraordinary from simple elements.
Stop 1: Chao Liangfen (炒凉粉) – Childhood Memories on a Plate
As I wandered through Kaifeng's old streets, I suddenly heard a familiar call—"Chao Liangfen! Chao Liangfen!" It was the sound of my childhood. Street vendors here have been selling this humble dish for generations, and I couldn't resist stopping at a small stall.
The vendor worked quickly, tossing cubes of liangfen (凉粉, liángfěn)—a smooth jelly made from sweet potato or mung bean starch—into a small iron wok. The sizzle was immediate and intoxicating. She added doubanjiang (fermented bean paste), spring onions, ginger, and garlic, then finished it with a drizzle of fragrant sesame oil.
When I took my first bite, the contrast hit me immediately—the exterior was beautifully caramelized and slightly crispy, while the inside remained silky and tender. The savory-salty flavors of the fermented bean sauce combined with the aromatic oils created something so simple yet so deeply satisfying. I understood why this is comfort food for Kaifeng locals.
🎯 Practical Info: Chao Liangfen
What it is: Fried starch jelly cubes with fermented bean paste and aromatics Price: ¥8-15 (~$1-2 USD) Where to find: Street vendors throughout the old city, especially around Gulou Square Best time: Evening, when vendors set up for dinner crowds
Stop 2: Kaifeng Guantang Bao (开封灌汤包) – Soup Dumplings Fit for an Emperor
My next stop was legendary. Kaifeng's soup dumplings (开封灌汤包, Kāifēng Guàntāng Bāo) have been famous since the Northern Song Dynasty (960-1127 AD). According to historical records in the "Eastern Capital: A Dream of Splendor" (东京梦华录), a restaurant called Wang Lou served something called "Mountain Cave Plum Blossom Buns" that were considered the best in the capital.
I sat down at a traditional restaurant and watched as baskets of these delicate parcels emerged from the kitchen, steam rising like morning mist. The art of eating these dumplings has its own local saying: "First open the window, then drink the soup, then enjoy the full fragrance" (先开窗，后喝汤，再满口香).
Following tradition, I carefully lifted a dumpling with my chopsticks, bit a small opening at the top, and gently slurped the rich pork broth inside. The filling was made from lean pork hind leg, wrapped in thin, almost translucent dough made from refined wheat flour. The broth was deeply savory, the meat tender, and the experience absolutely transcendent. I could easily see why these have been celebrated for over a thousand years.
🎯 Practical Info: Guantang Bao
What it is: Steamed soup dumplings with pork filling and rich broth Price: ¥25-45 (~$3.50-6 USD) per basket (8-10 pieces) Recommended spots: First Lou (第一楼), Huang Jia Lao Laozi (黄家老老子) Pro tip: Go early (before 10 AM) for the freshest batches How to eat: Bite a small hole, sip the soup slowly, then eat the whole dumpling
Stop 3: Chao Hongshu Ni (炒红薯泥) – The Patriotic "Ice Cream"
The afternoon led me to one of Kaifeng's most unique dishes with a fascinating story. Chao Hongshu Ni (炒红薯泥, Chǎo Hóngshǔ Ní), or Fried Sweet Potato Mash, is a local specialty that looks deceptively cool but hides a burning surprise.
Here's the legendary backstory: During the Qing Dynasty, the patriotic official Lin Zexu was once invited by foreign dignitaries to eat ice cream. Seeing the cold dessert "steaming," Lin mistakenly thought it was hot and blew on it before eating, much to the amusement of the foreigners. Embarrassed but determined, Lin later had his chance for revenge when he was asked to host a banquet for the same foreigners.
He had his chefs prepare this dish—mashed sweet potatoes fried with sugar and lard, then topped with a layer of oil. To the foreigners, it looked like a cool dessert with no steam rising. They eagerly scooped large portions, only to find the inside was scalding hot! The foreigners were caught completely off guard, and Lin's clever response earned this dish the nickname "Patriotic Dish" (爱国菜, Àiguó Cài).
When I tried it, I understood the trick immediately. The dish glistens like amber, looking innocent enough, but one bite reveals intense heat and sweetness. The texture is smooth and creamy, almost like a warm pudding, with the natural sweetness of sweet potatoes amplified by the cooking process. It's a dish that tells a story while delighting the palate.
🎯 Practical Info: Chao Hongshu Ni
What it is: Mashed sweet potatoes fried with sugar and lard Price: ¥20-35 (~$3-5 USD) Where to try: Traditional Kaifeng restaurants serving Yu cuisine Warning: Looks cool but is extremely hot inside! Taste: Sweet, creamy, with a caramelized exterior
Day 2: Imperial Cuisine and Traditional Delights
Stop 4: Liyu Beimian (鲤鱼焙面) – The Dish That Impressed Nixon
My second day started with Kaifeng's most prestigious dish. When I asked locals what I absolutely must try, everyone immediately said: "You have to eat Liyu Beimian!" (鲤鱼焙面, Lǐyú Bèimiàn)—Carp with Baked Noodles.
This dish gained international fame when President Richard Nixon visited China in the 1970s and was served this specialty. The translator, seeing the fine noodles draped over the fish like a blanket, creatively named it "Carp Covered with a Quilt" in English—a description that perfectly captures the visual presentation.
The dish arrived at my table with theatrical flair—a whole carp, deep-fried until the skin was a beautiful reddish-brown, covered with what looked like golden threads. These "threads" are actually crispy wheat noodles, finer than angel hair pasta, deep-fried until they're feather-light and crunchy.
There's a traditional way to eat this: "First eat the dragon meat, then eat the dragon beard" (先食龙肉，后食龙须). I started with the fish flesh, which was tender and coated in a sweet-and-sour sauce that balanced perfectly. Then I used the crispy noodles to scoop up the remaining sauce, enjoying how they absorbed the flavors while maintaining their delicate crunch. The contrast between the soft fish and crispy noodles was extraordinary.
🎯 Practical Info: Liyu Beimian
What it is: Deep-fried carp with sweet-sour sauce, topped with crispy wheat noodles Price: ¥68-128 (~$9-18 USD) depending on fish size Recommended restaurants: Old Kaifeng restaurants in the Gulou area How to eat: Fish first, then use noodles to scoop sauce History: Served to President Nixon during his 1972 China visit
Stop 5: Zha Ba Kuai (炸八块) – Eight Pieces of Heaven
For my final meal in Kaifeng, I sought out a dish with nearly 200 years of history—Zha Ba Kuai (炸八块, Zhà Bā Kuài), or "Fried Eight Pieces." While Luoyang is famous for its "Eight Treasures," Kaifeng has its "Eight Pieces"—a traditional dish that's beloved by locals but relatively unknown outside the region.
The "eight pieces" refer to a whole young chicken that's been cut into eight portions and marinated for at least an hour before being twice-fried. What surprised me was that unlike many fried chicken dishes, this one isn't battered. The chicken pieces are fried in their own skin, which creates an incredibly crispy exterior while keeping the meat juicy and tender inside.
When my plate arrived, the eight pieces were arranged artfully, glistening golden-brown. The first bite revealed why this dish has endured for centuries—the skin was shatteringly crisp, the meat beneath it succulent and infused with aromatic spices from the marinade. The double-frying technique meant there was no greasiness, just pure, concentrated chicken flavor with textural perfection.
Over the years, local chefs have refined and improved the recipe, but the core technique remains unchanged. It's a dish that represents Kaifeng cooking philosophy: take simple ingredients, apply time-honored techniques, and create something extraordinary.
🎯 Practical Info: Zha Ba Kuai
What it is: Twice-fried young chicken, cut into 8 pieces, without batter Price: ¥48-78 (~$7-11 USD) Best places: Local Yu cuisine restaurants in the old city History: Nearly 200 years old, continuously refined by local chefs Taste: Crispy skin, juicy meat, aromatic spices
Culinary Reflections: More Than Just Food
As my two days in Kaifeng came to an end, I realized something important: eating here isn't just about satisfying hunger—it's about connecting with history. Every dish I tried told a story. The street vendor's liangfen represented the resourcefulness of people living with an unpredictable river. The soup dumplings connected me to Song Dynasty emperors who ate the same delicacy a thousand years ago. The patriotic sweet potato mash reminded me of China's complex relationship with the outside world. The carp dish represented culinary diplomacy at the highest level. And the fried chicken showed me how simple techniques, perfected over centuries, can create something transcendent.
Kaifeng may not be on the typical international tourist circuit, but for food lovers, it offers something priceless: authentic flavors that have been refined over millennia, served without pretension in a city that has seen empires rise and fall.
If you're planning your own culinary journey through China, don't skip this ancient capital. Come hungry, bring an open mind, and prepare to taste history.
Quick Reference Guide
🍽️ Must-Try Dishes (In Order)
Kaifeng Guantang Bao – The signature dish, available city-wide Liyu Beimian – For special occasions, book ahead at top restaurants Chao Liangfen – Street food, best found near Gulou Square evenings Zha Ba Kuai – Traditional restaurants, lunch or dinner Chao Hongshu Ni – Dessert/side dish, available at most Yu cuisine spots
💰 Budget Breakdown (Per Person)
Street food/snacks: ¥30-50 (~$4-7 USD) Mid-range restaurant meals: ¥80-150 (~$11-21 USD) Fine dining (Liyu Beimian): ¥150-200 (~$21-28 USD) Total for 2 days: ~¥1,000 (~$140 USD) per person
📍 Getting Around
From Zhengzhou: High-speed train (30 minutes), regular train (1 hour) In Kaifeng: Taxis (¥8-20 per ride), walking in old city Key areas: Gulou Square (鼓楼广场), Songdu Yujie (宋都御街)
🗣️ Useful Phrases
"Wǒ xiǎng chī guàntāng bāo" – I'd like soup dumplings "Zhè shì shénme?" – What is this? "Hǎo chī!" – Delicious! "Mǎidān" – Check, please