Trip Overview
When: September 2020 (early autumn, comfortable weather)
Duration: 3 days
Travelers: With parents
Budget: ~500 RMB (~$70 USD) per person
Transportation: Local bus, taxi, and walking
Why Kaifeng (开封)?
A city with water has soul. As someone from Yangzhou in the south, I understand this intuitively. But due to China's geographical climate, the north is often associated with drought and water scarcity. Yet there's an ancient capital that was born from water, flourished by water, and even declined because of water—Kaifeng.
Known as the "Northern Water City," Kaifeng (开封) is one of China's eight ancient capitals, with over 2,200 years of history. What makes it unique? Six cities lie buried beneath its modern streets, layered like a geological cake—the result of flooding and reconstruction over millennia.
Day 1: Night Cruise on Dai Yu Royal River
We arrived at Kaifeng in the afternoon and checked into the Yinxiang Hotel (银祥酒店), ranked #1 on Ctrip. The location is perfect—right on Drum Tower Square (鼓楼广场), steps away from the famous Drum Tower Night Market. Within 15 minutes by taxi to any major attraction.
Foreigner tip: This area is tourist-friendly with English menu translations at most restaurants. But have your hotel name written in Chinese characters handy—show it to taxi drivers when they can't find addresses.
As night fell, we headed to Bao Gong Lake (包公湖)码头. Stepping onto an elegant cruise boat, we began our evening journey on the Dai Yu Royal River (大宋御河).
Every city has a river that carries its essence, but Kaifeng's Royal River is special. It doesn't just pass through the city center—it connects Bao Gong Lake with Dragon Pavilion Lake (龙亭湖), the very heart of Kaifeng's historical and cultural legacy.
"Half a city of Song Dynasty charm, half a city of water—dreams floating on Bianjing." As the eight-capitals capital, Kaifeng's 2,200-year history is literally submerged beneath the water's silt. From the Warring States period to the Ming Dynasty, six cities lie buried underwater. Legend has it that Judge Bao (包公) still sits in Kaifeng Prefecture, and Zhao Kuangyin crown princes at the imperial academy—all scattered along these riverbanks.
Opposite our boarding dock lies the world-famous Kaifeng Prefecture (开封府), but the real Kaifeng Prefecture has long been submerged beneath Bao Gong Lake.
Kaifeng at night is different from daytime—less noise, more serenity. As our boat glided along, the riverside unfolded like a scroll painting. Eleven distinct bridges, each with Song Dynasty architectural styling, arch across the water. Passing beneath them feels like traveling through a time tunnel back to ancient Bianjing.
The antique buildings along the banks are illuminated, their reflections dancing on the water. Every time we pass through a bridge arch, a new scene appears—it's like walking through a living Along the River During the Qingming Festival (清明上河图) painting.
Suddenly, melodious Song Dynasty poetry drifted from a riverside pavilion. Actors in period costumes were performing familiar Song lyrics. In the prosperous Eastern Capital (东京), Song Dynasty music and dance were the entertainment of choice for royalty and nobility.
Lanterns reflected on water, boats floated on waves, oars created shadows in the lamplight—accompanied by Song Dynasty music. I felt like a Song Dynasty lady, chatting cheerfully with friends on this royal river.
The cruise ends at Dragon Pavilion Lake (龙亭湖), where the former Song Dynasty imperial city stood. This is also where Kaifeng's "city upon city" was discovered—during a routine desilting project, six ancient cities沉睡了千年 were rediscovered. The ancients were so devoted to this location that they built city after city here, without even changing the central axis.
Pro hack: The night cruise is best done at sunset (around 6-7 PM in autumn). You'll see the city transform from day to night, and the illuminated bridges are even more magical after dark. Budget 60-80 RMB per person for a 50-minute cruise.
Why Flood-Prone Kaifeng Became a Capital
Many wonder why Kaifeng, frequently hit by floods, repeatedly became an important capital in history. The answer lies in its rich water system.
Water brought Kaifeng its lengthy history, the wonder of stacked cities, but also immense suffering. The Yellow River's breaches and course changes not only buried Kaifeng's history and prosperity but also transformed the world-famous Eastern Capital Bianliang into today's modest Kaifeng.
Stepping back onto the Bao Gong Lake dock felt like returning from a thousand-year Song Dynasty journey to modern times. Reflecting on the experience: "Boat on Royal River, passenger on boat—hundred views on hundred meters of river, hundred feet of river seeing Song Dynasty charm."
Where We Stayed: Yinxiang Hotel
We chose the Yinxiang Hotel (银祥酒店), ranked #1 on Ctrip for Kaifeng accommodations. Located on Drum Tower Square (鼓楼广场), the location is a major advantage—step outside to the world-famous Drum Tower Night Market, where street food and souvenirs fill the endless stalls.
The hotel has 130+ rooms across 17 floors, with both Chinese and Western decoration styles to meet various travel needs. It's managed as a four-star property with rigorous cleanliness standards—after housekeeping, rooms are inspected by the shift leader, then the manager, and finally the duty manager. Linens are changed for every guest.
Foreigner tip: Free bottled water and coffee in rooms, plus free parking with security directing traffic. The service is exceptional—feels like family even in a foreign city. The location alone makes it worth it, but the service is the cherry on top.
For Kaifeng accommodation, Yinxiang Hotel is the answer.