I spent five incredible days driving through Henan Province, the birthplace of Chinese civilization, with my family. From marveling at ancient bronze treasures in Zhengzhou's museum and walking through the bustling streets of Kaifeng that inspired the famous Qingming Festival scroll, to standing in awe before the legendary Shaolin Temple and discovering the serenity of Buddhist art at Longmen Grottoes—this journey was a profound immersion into China's rich history. Each stop revealed layers of stories spanning thousands of years, while the spicy Hu noodles (Hulatang) and authentic Luoyang water banquet satisfied our culinary curiosity. If you want to understand the roots of Chinese culture beyond Beijing and Shanghai, this self-drive adventure through Central China delivers an unforgettable experience.
Trip Overview
When: July 11-15, 2021 (Summer)
Duration: 5 days
Travelers: Family (parent-child)
Budget: ~¥4,000 per person (~$550 USD)
Transportation: Flight to Zhengzhou + Self-drive rental car (Volkswagen CC)
Day 1: Arrival in Zhengzhou & Ancient Treasures
When I boarded the China Southern flight from Guangzhou at 9:15 AM, I felt a mix of excitement and curiosity about this province that calls itself "the heart of nine provinces" (九州腹地, Jiǔzhōu Fùdì). After landing at Zhengzhou Xinzheng International Airport at 11:40 AM, a quick 40-minute taxi ride (¥26 / ~$4) brought us to our home for the next two nights—the Sheraton Zhengzhou Hotel (郑州美盛喜来登大酒店).
The hotel impressed us with its elegant design and clean rooms. They welcomed us with fresh flowers and complimentary minibar items on the first day. The breakfast buffet was generous, featuring local specialties like Hulatang (胡辣汤 – spicy peppercorn soup) and tofu pudding. While the facilities were excellent, the service at the entrance could use some polish—don't expect staff to proactively open doors or assist with luggage unless you ask.
🎯 Hotel Practical Info
Name: Sheraton Zhengzhou Hotel (郑州美盛喜来登大酒店) Cost: ¥1,387 (~$190 USD) for 2 nights (deluxe twin room with breakfast) Location: Near commercial center, convenient for exploring Pro Tip: Try the Hulatang at breakfast—it's a local specialty!
By 2:00 PM, we were ready to dive into history at the Henan Museum (河南博物院 – Hénán Bówùyuàn). I had pre-booked our free tickets through their WeChat official account (essential for entry!). Walking through the exhibition halls, I found myself face-to-face with three of China's most precious national treasures: the Jiahu Bone Flute (贾湖骨笛 – Jiǎhú Gǔdí), an 8,000-year-old musical instrument carved from crane bone; the Cloud-Pattern Bronze Banquet Vessel (云纹铜禁 – Yúnwén Tóngjìn), showcasing intricate lost-wax casting techniques; and the Fuhao Owl-Shaped Bronze Zun (妇好鸮尊 – Fùhǎo Xiāo Zūn), a 3,000-year-old wine vessel from the Shang Dynasty. Standing before these artifacts, I felt an overwhelming sense of pride—this is where Chinese civilization was born and flourished.
🎯 Henan Museum Practical Info
Entry: Free (must reserve via WeChat official account "河南博物院" in advance) Best Time: Afternoon (opens at 2:00 PM) Must-See: Three national treasure artifacts on display Gift Shop: Mystery boxes available (¥60-90 / ~$8-12) Pro Tip: Allocate at least half a day for the full experience
As evening approached around 6:30 PM, we made our way to the Erqi Square (二七广场 – Èrqī Guǎngchǎng). Due to nearby construction, we had to get off the taxi early and walk. The square sits at the heart of Zhengzhou's commercial district, surrounded by shopping centers like Walmart and Asia Plaza. The centerpiece is the striking Erqi Memorial Tower (二七纪念塔), standing 63 meters tall with 14 floors. Built to commemorate the 1923 Beijing-Hankou Railway Workers' Strike, its green glazed-tile roof and traditional Chinese architectural elements are beautifully illuminated at night—a fitting end to our first day.
🎯 Erqi Square Practical Info
Entry: Free (public square) Best Time: Evening for illuminated tower views Nearby: Shopping malls, restaurants, and commercial areas Note: Check for construction that may affect access
Day 2: Kaifeng – Stepping into Ancient Paintings
The next morning, we picked up our rental car through Ctrip—a Volkswagen CC for 4 days at ¥1,500 (~$205 USD) including fuel. Smart tip: We chose a license plate ending in 5 to avoid Friday traffic restrictions in Zhengzhou, Kaifeng, and Luoyang. By 9:00 AM, we were on the highway heading east toward Kaifeng.
About an hour later, we arrived at our first stop: Da Xiangguo Temple (大相国寺 – Dà Xiāngguó Sì). I immediately thought of the classic Chinese novel "Water Margin" (水浒传) and the famous scene where Lu Zhishen pulls up the willow tree—yes, there's actually a bronze statue of this legend at the temple entrance! Originally founded in 555 AD during the Northern Qi Dynasty, it was renamed by Emperor Ruizong of Tang in 712 AD to commemorate his ascension from Prince of Xiang. Walking through the temple complex, I was struck by the ancient architecture—though some paint is peeling and surfaces are weathered, this only adds to the authentic atmosphere.
The temple follows a traditional layout: Heavenly King Hall (天王殿 – Tiānwáng Diàn), Mahavira Hall (大雄宝殿 – Dàxióng Bǎodiàn), and the stunning Octagonal Glazed Hall (八角琉璃殿 – Bājiǎo Liúlí Diàn), also known as the Arhat Hall (罗汉殿 – Luóhàn Diàn). Inside the octagonal corridor, 500 arhats (enlightened Buddhist disciples) stand in various poses, each uniquely crafted. But the true centerpiece is the massive wooden statue of the Thousand-Handed Thousand-Eyed Guanyin (四面千手千眼观音 – Sìmiàn Qiānshǒu Qiānyǎn Guānyīn), standing about 6 meters tall and carved from a single white fruit tree during the Qing Dynasty's Qianlong period.
🎯 Da Xiangguo Temple Practical Info
Entry Fee: Included in combined ticket ¥96 (~$13) with Kaifeng Government Office Parking: ¥10 (~$1.50) for daytime Best Time: Morning (10:00 AM arrival recommended) Incense: Available at each hall (¥20 to several hundred yuan) Highlight: The 500 Arhats and Thousand-Handed Guanyin statue
By 11:00 AM, we drove about 10 minutes to the Kaifeng Government Office (开封府 – Kāifēng Fǔ). This modern reconstruction sits on the site of the original Song Dynasty government complex that was destroyed by floods centuries ago. Walking through the main gate, I couldn't help but think of Judge Bao (包青天 – Bāo Qīngtiān), the legendary incorruptible official, and his three famous execution guillotines that once symbolized justice. The site is arranged along a central axis with the Main Hall, Council Hall, and Plum Blossom Hall, flanked by the Tianqing Temple, Mingsi Academy, and Hidden Dragon Palace. While entirely reconstructed, the educational performances and cultural activities make it worthwhile, especially for families with children.
🎯 Kaifeng Government Office Practical Info
Entry Fee: Combined ticket ¥96 (~$13) with Da Xiangguo Temple Parking: ¥10 (~$1.50) Best Time: Morning to catch cultural performances Features: Educational shows, historical reenactments Nearby Dining: Try "Huang's Old Restaurant" (黄家老店) for lunch
Lunch at Huang's Old Restaurant was our introduction to authentic Kaifeng cuisine. Then at 3:00 PM, we headed to the highlight of the day: Qingming Shanghe Yuan (清明上河园 – Qīngmíng Shànghé Yuán). Getting there was an adventure—my GPS led us through narrow residential alleys barely wide enough for one car, causing a frustrating 15-minute detour. Lesson learned: Navigate directly to the Jinshui Gate Parking Lot (金水门停车场) instead!
Based on the famous painting "Along the River During the Qingming Festival" (清明上河图) by Zhang Zeduan of the Northern Song Dynasty, this theme park recreates the bustling capital of Bianliang (ancient Kaifeng). The moment we entered, I felt transported back 1,000 years—every staff member and vendor dressed in Song Dynasty costumes, ancient-style buildings lining the streets, and traditional workshops where craftsmen demonstrate their skills. The park is divided into three sections: Welcome Plaza, North Garden, and South Garden, each offering different experiences. We watched live performances including the "Wang Family's Daughter's Wedding" (王员外嫁女), "Yue Fei Spearing Liang Wang" (岳飞枪刺梁王), and exciting cockfighting matches.
After dinner in the park's food street—featuring mutton noodles, soup dumplings, grilled gluten, and almond tea—we settled in for the evening's grand finale: "Song Dynasty: Dongjing Dream" (大宋·东京梦华), a spectacular large-scale water performance. Using eight classic Song Dynasty poems and the Qingming Festival scroll as narrative threads, this 70-minute show transported the audience through music, dance, and stunning visual effects back to the glory days of ancient Kaifeng. We didn't leave until 9:30 PM, arriving back at our Zhengzhou hotel around 80 minutes later—exhausted but exhilarated.
🎯 Qingming Shanghe Yuan Practical Info
Entry + Evening Show: ¥299 (~$41) for Area A seats Parking: Jinshui Gate Parking Lot (金水门停车场) recommended Best Time: Afternoon arrival (3:00 PM) to explore before evening show Food: Park food street available for dinner Show Time: Evening (varies by season, ~70 minutes) Pro Tip: Book tickets at least 1 day in advance
Day 3: Dengfeng – The Shaolin Experience
Day three started with a relaxed morning at the hotel's excellent breakfast buffet. By 9:00 AM, we were on the road heading west toward Dengfeng and the legendary Shaolin Temple (少林寺 – Shàolín Sì). This is where kung fu was born, and I could barely contain my excitement to finally see this iconic place in person.
We planned to enter from the Sanhuangzhai (三皇寨 – Sānhuángzhài) entrance, but road construction and poor signage caused us to miss the turn. The entrance sign was too small to spot while driving. After realizing we'd passed it, we pivoted and headed to the main Shaolin Temple entrance instead. Sometimes travel surprises lead to better experiences!
Our route became: Shaolin Temple → Pagoda Forest (塔林 – Tǎlín) → Sanhuangzhai via cable car. At the temple entrance, we hired a local guide for ¥60 (~$8) who proved invaluable in explaining the history and significance of each area. The Shaolin Temple itself was everything I'd imagined—ancient buildings nestled among Songshan Mountain's peaks, monks practicing their forms, and an atmosphere thick with centuries of martial arts tradition.
Just 5 minutes' walk from the Pagoda Forest, we reached the cable car station. Three options awaited: the left Songshan Cable Car (嵩山索道) leads to the Demonic Practice Platform and Erzu Temple (二祖庵 – Èrzǔ Ān); the center path is a hiking trail to "Ladder Valley" (梯子沟) and up to the plank walkway; and the right Shaolin Cable Car (少林索道) takes you directly to the plank walkway and Sanhuangzhai. We chose the right option.
The hiking trail from Ladder Valley has no scenic spots along the way, and the stairs are just as challenging as Sanhuangzhai's famous "Hero Slope" (好汉坡). It takes about 2 hours of pure physical exertion, so bring plenty of water. The cable car, however, deposits you directly at the plank walkway—and this is where the magic happens.
Walking along the hanging plank walkway (悬空栈道 – Xuánkōng Zhàndào), suspended against sheer cliffs with thousand-foot drops on one side and towering rock faces on the other, was the most thrilling experience of the entire trip. The geological formations here are spectacular, with unique rock structures that have formed over millions of years. My heart raced as we navigated the narrow path, but the views were absolutely worth every moment of vertigo. This, I realized, was the true highlight of the Shaolin scenic area.
🎯 Shaolin Temple & Sanhuangzhai Practical Info
Guide Fee: ¥60 (~$8) at temple entrance (recommended) Cable Car: Shaolin Cable Car (少林索道) to plank walkway Hiking Option: Ladder Valley trail (2 hours, strenuous, bring water) Must-See: Hanging plank walkway (most spectacular part) Pro Tip: Road construction may affect access—check current conditions
We finished around 6:00 PM and checked into the Dengfeng Yishe Dengfeng Hotel (登峰颐舍登峰酒店). The rooms were spacious and clean, and the front desk service was efficient. The location was convenient for the evening's entertainment—the Shaolin Zen Music Ceremony (禅宗少林音乐大典 – Chánzōng Shàolín Yīnyuè Dàdiǎn).
Set in a natural valley within the Songshan Mountains, this 180-degree panoramic outdoor performance uses the mountain forests, streams, and ancient temples as its backdrop. Surround sound flows with the natural elements—water, wind, and insects—creating an immersive audio experience. Combined with spectacular lighting design, the show awakens the ancient mountain with breathtaking visuals. The scale, cast, and atmosphere are genuinely awe-inspiring and spiritually moving. Be warned: only VIP tickets get actual chairs—standard seats are cushions on the ground, so prepare for back discomfort during the hour-long performance!
🎯 Shaolin Zen Music Ceremony Practical Info
Ticket Price: ¥279 (~$38) per person Show Time: 8:00 PM (check current schedule) Duration: About 1 hour Seating: Standard tickets = cushions on ground (bring padding!); VIP = chairs Location: Natural valley setting in Songshan Mountains Pro Tip: Dress warmly for evening mountain temperatures
Day 4: Sacred Mountains & Ancient Academies
After a simple hotel breakfast with limited variety, we set out at 9:00 AM for two cultural treasures: Zhongyue Temple (中岳庙 – Zhōngyuè Miào) and Songyang Academy (嵩阳书院 – Sōngyáng Shūyuàn).
Our GPS led us to the Zhongyue Temple parking lot, only to find it temporarily closed due to construction. We had to park much farther away—a 5-6 minute walk in the summer heat along roads also under construction. Travel always throws curveballs! Despite the inconvenience, the temple itself was magnificent. As the largest and best-preserved Taoist temple among China's Five Great Mountains, it's a sacred site of the Quanzhen School of Taoism. Ancient trees shade the courtyards, and the temple houses invaluable cultural relics including the Five Sacred Mountains True Form Stele (五岳真形图碑), Han Dynasty stone figures, and the famous Han Dynasty Three Passes—all national treasures.
🎯 Zhongyue Temple Practical Info
Entry Fee: On-site purchase (check current rates) Parking: Check for temporary closures due to construction Best Time: Morning (before heat of day) Highlights: Ancient trees, Five Sacred Mountains Stele, Han Dynasty artifacts Note: Taoist temple—different atmosphere from Buddhist sites
From the temple, we drove to Songyang Academy, where the parking lot sits conveniently right across from the entrance. On-site tickets were easy to obtain. Though not large, this academy is historically significant as one of the birthplaces of Cheng-Zhu Neo-Confucianism (程朱理学 – Chéng-Zhū Lǐxué), a dominant philosophical school during the Song Dynasty.
The layout follows a traditional central axis: entering through the main gate, we passed the Teacher's Hall (先师祠) honoring Confucius and other scholars, then the Lecture Hall, the Dao Tradition Hall (道统祠), and finally the Library Tower. Notable treasures include the Tang Dynasty Stele and the famous General Cypress (将军柏) trees. The Qing Dynasty architecture has been remarkably preserved, making this a living museum of ancient Chinese educational institutions.
🎯 Songyang Academy Practical Info
Entry Fee: On-site purchase Parking: Directly across from entrance (convenient) Best Time: Morning or late afternoon Highlights: Tang Stele, General Cypress trees, Qing Dynasty architecture Significance: Birthplace of Cheng-Zhu Neo-Confucianism
Due to ongoing road construction, we skipped hiking Taishi Mountain (太室山 – Tàishì Shān) from the academy and headed directly to our next destination: Luoyang. By 3:00 PM, we arrived at the Luoyang Crystal Hotel (洛阳克丽司汀酒店), and I was immediately struck by the overwhelming warmth of the staff. From the moment we entered the parking lot to our room arrival, every interaction was marked by genuine enthusiasm and hospitality—they even offer complimentary fruit, instant noodles, and children's dumplings upon request. It was a welcome contrast to the more reserved service at our previous hotels.
🎯 Luoyang Crystal Hotel Practical Info
Service: Exceptionally warm and attentive staff Complimentary: Fruit plates, instant noodles, children's dumplings (call to request) Location: Convenient for Luoyang sightseeing Pro Tip: Take advantage of the free snacks!
Day 5: Buddhist Origins & Carved Stone Marvels
The final day began with a spectacular breakfast on the hotel's 18th-floor restaurant, offering panoramic views of half of Luoyang. The buffet was extensive and high-quality, the perfect fuel for our last two major sights: White Horse Temple (白马寺 – Báimǎ Sì) and Longmen Grottoes (龙门石窟 – Lóngmén Shíkū).
A 30-minute drive brought us to White Horse Temple. As we approached, numerous private parking lots charged ¥10 (~$1.50) for the day. We bought incense for ¥20 (~$3) and purchased tickets on-site for ¥35 (~$5) per person (Ctrip offers a package with guided tour for ¥75 if preferred).
Founded in 68 AD during the Eastern Han Dynasty, White Horse Temple holds the distinction of being China's first Buddhist temple and the cradle of Buddhism in East Asia. The name "White Horse" commemorates the legendary white horses that carried Buddhist scriptures and statues from India. Walking through this 1,900-year-old complex, I felt the weight of history—this is where Buddhism took root and spread throughout China, Korea, Japan, and Vietnam.
The existing structures date from the Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties, but the true treasures are inside: a collection of Yuan Dynasty dry lacquer statues (夹纻干漆像 – jiāzhù gānqī xiàng) depicting the Three Ages Buddha, two heavenly generals, and eighteen arhats. These are incredibly rare and precious artifacts. We spent about an hour exploring the serene grounds before heading to our final destination.
🎯 White Horse Temple Practical Info
Entry Fee: ¥35 (~$5) on-site; ¥75 (~$10) with guided tour Parking: Private lots ¥10 (~$1.50) Incense: ¥20 (~$3) available at entrance Best Time: Morning (8:00 AM opening) Must-See: Yuan Dynasty dry lacquer statues (rare treasures) Duration: About 1 hour
We hit the highway for the 40-minute drive to Longmen Grottoes, one of China's most important Buddhist art sites. I had pre-booked tickets and time slots the day before (essential!) at ¥90 (~$12) per person. From the entrance to the actual grottoes, it's about a 10-minute walk.
Our route followed the classic path: West Hill (西山 – Xīshān) → East Hill (东山 – Dōngshān) → Xiangshan Temple (香山寺 – Xiāngshān Sì) → Baiyuan (白园 – Báiyuán, the garden of poet Bai Juyi). The guide told us a heartbreaking fact: 90% of the Longmen Grottoes' Buddha statues have been destroyed over the centuries, with only about 100 intact figures remaining. As we climbed stairs up and down the cliff faces, I searched in vain for complete statues—most are missing heads, faces, or entire bodies, victims of theft, vandalism, and time.
The majority of surviving statues are on the West Hill; the East Hill has far fewer. Many caves were carved but never completed, their hollow chambers haunting reminders of interrupted devotion. By the time we finished the West Hill section, we were already exhausted. We breezed through the East Hill, skipped Xiangshan Temple and Baiyuan entirely, and opted for the boat ride back to the entrance for ¥60 (~$8) per person—a wise decision given our fatigue.
One word to describe Longmen: tiring! The constant climbing, the emotional weight of seeing so much destruction, and the sheer scale of the site make it physically and mentally exhausting. But it's an essential experience for understanding Chinese Buddhist art and history.
🎯 Longmen Grottoes Practical Info
Entry Fee: ¥90 (~$12) per person (must book day before) Route: West Hill → East Hill → Xiangshan Temple → Baiyuan Boat Return: ¥60 (~$8) per person (recommended to save energy) Best Time: Morning (allow 3-4 hours minimum) What to Bring: Water, snacks, comfortable walking shoes Pro Tip: Take your time on West Hill (best statues), conserve energy for East Hill
With that, our five-day Henan adventure came to an end. We drove directly to Zhengzhou Xinzheng International Airport to return our rental car and catch our flight home. As I looked out the window during takeoff, I reflected on the incredible journey—thousands of years of history, countless cultural treasures, delicious regional cuisine, and precious family memories. Henan, the cradle of Chinese civilization, had exceeded every expectation.
Culinary Discoveries
No journey through Henan would be complete without savoring its distinctive cuisine. Our taste buds were treated to:
Hulatang (胡辣汤 – Húlātāng): A spicy, peppery soup with a complex blend of spices that warms you from the inside out. Available at hotel breakfasts and street stalls. Luoyang Water Banquet (洛阳水席 – Luòyáng Shuǐxí): A traditional feast featuring multiple soup-based dishes, though we didn't have time for the full experience. Bu Fan Soup (不翻汤 – Bùfān Tāng): A local specialty we sampled during our explorations. Mutton Noodles (羊肉烩面 – Yángròu Huìmiàn): Hearty, flavorful wheat noodles in rich mutton broth—perfect after a day of sightseeing. Guotie (锅贴 – Guōtiē): Crispy-bottomed potstickers with juicy fillings—irresistibly delicious. Soup Dumplings (灌汤包 – Guàntāngbāo): Delicate dumplings filled with hot soup and meat, requiring careful eating technique! Grilled Gluten (烤面筋 – Kǎo Miànjīn): Chewy, savory street snack popular in the region. Almond Tea (杏仁茶 – Xìngrén Chá): A sweet, fragrant beverage made from apricot kernels.
Quick Reference Guide
Cost Breakdown (per person)
Flights: Varies by origin (China Southern from Guangzhou) Hotel (Sheraton Zhengzhou): ¥694 (~$95) for 2 nights Car rental (4 days): ¥375 (~$51) including fuel Da Xiangguo Temple + Kaifeng Government Office: ¥96 (~$13) Qingming Shanghe Yuan + Evening Show: ¥299 (~$41) Shaolin Zen Music Ceremony: ¥279 (~$38) White Horse Temple: ¥35 (~$5) Longmen Grottoes: ¥90 (~$12) Longmen Boat: ¥60 (~$8) Guide at Shaolin: ¥60 (~$8) for group Various parking: ~¥50 (~$7) total Total: ~¥4,000 (~$550) excluding flights
Driving Tips
Zhengzhou, Kaifeng, and Luoyang all have traffic restriction policies—rent a car with license plate ending in numbers that avoid your travel days' restrictions We chose plate ending in "5" to avoid Friday restrictions GPS navigation can be unreliable in older areas—use offline maps and confirm routes with locals Road construction is common—be prepared for detours and closed parking lots
Booking Essentials
Henan Museum: Reserve via WeChat official account (河南博物院) in advance Longmen Grottoes: Book tickets and time slots 1 day ahead Qingming Shanghe Yuan Evening Show: Book at least 1 day in advance All other attractions: Can usually purchase on-site