Trip Overview
When: September 19, 2020 (Golden Week preview)
Duration: 5 days
Travelers: Friends
Budget: ~800 RMB (~$115 USD) per person
Transportation: Local transport within Kaifeng
Essential Foreigner Info
Getting There: Kaifeng is easily accessible by high-speed train from Zhengzhou (30 minutes). The city is compact—all major attractions are in Longting District, within walking distance of each other.
Money Matters: Mobile payment (Alipay/WeChat Pay) is standard. Some small vendors still accept cash—carry 100 RMB just in case.
Language: English is limited outside tourist areas. Key Chinese phrases help: 开封 (Kāifēng) for the city, 清明上河园 (Qīngmíng Shànghéyuán) for the theme park.
Navigation: All attractions are centrally located. Walking is the best way to explore—distances are under 4km from north to south, east to west.
Why Kaifeng?
Kaifeng (开封), nicknamed "Northern Water City" (北方水城), is one of China's oldest and most historically significant cities. As one of the Five Great Ancient Capitals and capital of eight different dynasties, it boasts the unique distinction of having its city center remain unchanged for over a millennium. The city is built along the Yellow River, giving it canals and waterways earning it the "water city" nickname. While Beijing and Xi'an hog the tourist spotlight, Kaifeng offers equally breathtaking historical sites without the crushing crowds—and the food scene is legendary.
Day 1: Qingming Shanghe Garden
Qingming Shanghe Garden (清明上河园) is the crown jewel of Kaifeng tourism, and for good reason. This theme park is built based on the famous painting "Along the River During the Qingming Festival" by Song Dynasty artist Zhang Zeduan—a 5-meter-long masterpiece depicting daily life in Kaifeng during its golden age. Walking through the park feels like stepping into that 12th-century painting.
The park captures the essence of Song Dynasty Kaifeng—the commerce, the culture, the chaos. Street performers dot the pathways: traditional musicians, puppet shows, acrobatics. Vendors in period costumes sell local snacks. It's China meets Disney, but way cooler because it's all based on real history.
Pro hack: Visit in the late afternoon and stay for the evening lantern lighting. The garden transforms into something magical as thousands of lanterns illuminate the waterways.
Foreigner tip: The giant boat on the lake is a must-ride—it recreates the river traffic from the painting. Don't miss the Bazhou performance (fighting monks) at 10 AM and 3 PM.
Day 2: Kaifeng Prefecture
Kaifeng Prefecture (开封府) is the former administrative headquarters of the city during the Northern Song Dynasty—essentially the governor's office of medieval Kaifeng. But let's be real: most visitors come for one name. Judge Bao (包拯/Bao Zheng).
Judge Bao was the legendary Song Dynasty magistrate known for his incorruptibility and fairness—basically China's answer to Judge Dredd, but the good kind. The "three courtyards and one lake" layout (东府西祠楼阁碧水) is gorgeous: elegant buildings reflecting in lotus-filled ponds, create a scene straight out of a Chinese ink painting.
Reality check: This is one of Kaifeng's most touristy spots, but it's still worth it. The historical exhibits are well done, and the twice-daily "Bao Court" performances (at 9:30 AM and 2:30 PM) are surprisingly entertaining—complete with mock trials and audience participation.
Pro tip: After visiting Kaifeng Prefecture, walk next door to Bao Gong Temple (包公祠). Same ticket, different vibes—it's smaller but more atmospheric.
Day 3: Longting Park
Longting Park (龙亭公园) sits on the site of six successive dynasties' imperial palaces. The main pavilion, with its golden roof glinting in the sunlight, has been Kaifeng's most recognizable landmark for centuries.
The park is massive—seriously, give yourself 2-3 hours. Beyond the main pavilion, you'll find beautifully landscaped gardens, a lake perfect for wandering, and the most photogenic pagodas in the city.
Timing tip: If you visit during October (Chongyang Festival), the park hosts Kaifeng's famous chrysanthemum exhibition—over 3 million potted菊花 in bloom. It's absolutely spectacular.
Day 4: Daxiangguo Temple and Tianbo Yangfu
Daxiangguo Temple (大相国寺) is one of China's most important Buddhist temples, founded in 555 AD—yes, that's over 1,400 years ago. The temple's fame reached peak levels during the Song Dynasty when it became the first "royal temple" in Chinese history.
Fun pop-culture connection: This is where the fictional monk Tang Sanzang started his journey to India in Journey to the West. And in Water Margin (Shuihu Zhuan), the legendary monk Lu Zhishen—famous for uprooting a willow tree—lived here and caused mayhem in the temple vegetable garden.
Nearby, Tianbo Yangfu (天波杨府) commemorates the Yang family—a legendary clan of military heroes who defended the Song Dynasty against the Liao. The "Stele of Loyalty" (无佞天波滴水楼) is a sight to behold, and the gardens are serene.
Kaifeng City Wall at Night
The Kaifeng City Wall (开封城墙) is an engineering marvel. At 14.4 km, it's the second-largest ancient city wall in China (after Nanjing). Here's the wild part: there are actually five separate city walls stacked on top of each other, dating from different dynasties, buried beneath the current wall.
Walking the wall at night is magical. The city lights illuminate the ancient bricks, and you can see the contrast between old and new Kaifeng stretching out before you.
Foreigner tip: The night view is free—the walkable section near Gulou is best for tourists. Rent a bicycle (20 RMB/hour) to cover more ground.
Gulou Night Market
No trip to Kaifeng is complete without experiencing its legendary night market (鼓楼夜市). Here's the wild historical fact: while most Chinese cities had curfews in ancient times, Kaifeng didn't. The city was the first in world history to operate 24/7. That's right—Kaifeng had a bustling nightlife over 1,000 years before modern cities even tried.
Tonight, the tradition continues. The Gulou area (鼓楼市中心鼓楼街) comes alive with hundreds of food stalls, street performers, and locals gathering for evening strolls. The Shudian Book Street (书店步行街) runs parallel, adding cultural vibes to the nightlife.
Must-try foods:
- 桶子鸡 (Tongzi Chicken) -特色
- 炒凉粉 (Fried Liangfen) - potato starch noodles
- 羊肉汤 (Lamb Soup)
- 小笼包 (Soup Dumplings)
Where to Eat: Kaifeng's Food Scene
Kaifeng's culinary heritage is legendary in Henan Province. The city has been a food capital for over a millennium.
Dongdasi Gate Breakfast Spot (东大寺门) is the local favorite for morning eats. Get there early (7 AM) for the legendary lamb soup (羊肉汤), siweicai (四味菜—four vegetable combo), and yangshuangchang (羊双肠—lamb intestine soup). The steamed dumplings (蒸饺) and shaomai (烧卖) are also exceptional.
First Floor Restaurant (第一楼包子馆) is the most famous spot in Kaifeng for xiaolongbao (小笼灌汤包). Here's the story: these soup dumplings originated in Kaifeng during the Song Dynasty, called "Mountain Cave Plum Blossom Buns" (山洞梅花包子). In the 1930s, First Floor's chefs changed from large steamers to small bamboo baskets—and the modern xiaolongbao was born.
Pro tip: First Floor's famous "buns feast" (什锦包子宴) lets you try multiple varieties. It's tourist-friendly, clean, and the buns are genuinely delicious.
Youyixin Restaurant (又一新饭庄) is Kaifeng's premier spot for authentic Henanese cuisine (豫菜). Established in 1908, this place has served everyone from Chiang Kai-shek to opera legend Mei Lanfang.
The story: in 1933, Kang Youwei (the famous reformist scholar) visited Kaifeng and dined here, so impressed that he personally wrote the restaurant's sign. Since then, it's been the place for official Henanese cuisine. Reservations recommended.
Where to Stay
The best area is around Gulou (鼓楼)—the heart of the old city. All the attractions, restaurants, and night markets are within walking distance.
Pro tip: The old city is small—under 4km from east to west, north to south. Book a hotel near Gulou and you can walk to everything. Many offer free parking if you're road-tripping.
My recommendation: Look for hotels near the Gulong area with good reviews. The area has plenty of budget options and a few boutique inns that have converted traditional courtyard houses. The service at these local hotels is exceptional—expect warm hospitality and helpful staff who might even draw you a map of the best food stalls.
Final Thoughts
Kaifeng is a hidden gem. While tourists flock to Beijing, Shanghai, and Xi'an, this ancient capital offers equally impressive history, stunning architecture, incredible food, and—most importantly—a fraction of the crowds. The city's compact size makes it perfect for a 3-5 day trip, and the value for money is incredible: 800 RMB (~$115 USD) covers accommodation, food, entrance fees, and transportation.
The bottom line: Kaifeng isn't just a destination—it's a time machine. One weekend here, and you'll understand why this city was the economic and cultural capital of China for centuries.