I spent a peaceful day at Zhenru Temple (真如寺 Zhēnrú Sì), one of Shanghai's oldest and most significant Buddhist temples, tucked away in the Putuo District. Walking through the ancient Yuan Dynasty main hall, marveling at the 700-year-old ginkgo trees, and climbing the magnificent Zhenru Pagoda revealed a spiritual side of Shanghai that most visitors miss. This temple, whose history shaped an entire town, offers a rare escape from the city's hustle—perfect for anyone seeking authentic Chinese Buddhist culture without leaving Shanghai.
Trip Overview
When: January (Winter)
Duration: 1 day
Travelers: With spouse
Budget: ~100 RMB (~$14 USD)
Transportation: Subway to Zhenru Town Station, then short walk
Morning: Discovering Shanghai's Oldest Temple
When I first stepped through the gates of Zhenru Temple at 9 AM, I was immediately struck by how quiet it felt—despite being in the middle of Shanghai. This ancient Buddhist temple (禅寺 chán sì, or Zen temple) dates back over 700 years to the Yuan Dynasty (1320 AD), making it one of the oldest wooden structures in Shanghai and one of only a handful remaining from that period in all of Jiangnan.
🎯 Practical Info
Location: 399 Lanxi Road, Zhenru Town, Putuo District, Shanghai Entry Fee: ¥10 (~$1.40) per person Best Time: Early morning for peaceful atmosphere Opening Hours: 7:00 AM – 4:30 PM
What's fascinating is how the temple gave its name to the entire town. The saying goes: "先有真如寺，后有真如镇" (First came Zhenru Temple, then came Zhenru Town). The original temple was called Wanshou Temple (万寿寺 Wànshòu Sì), built during the Song Dynasty, but was rebuilt in its current location in 1320. The temple flourished during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1398) when it was expanded twice, becoming a major religious center.
Unfortunately, like many cultural treasures in China, Zhenru Temple suffered during the Anti-Japanese War in the 1930s. Most of the complex was destroyed, leaving only the main hall standing—but in ruins. The temple was designated a Shanghai Municipal Cultural Relic in 1959 and later elevated to a National Key Cultural Relic Protection Unit in 1996. After extensive restoration work, it finally reopened to the public in 1992.
The Yuan Dynasty Main Hall: A Rare Treasure
The highlight of my visit was entering the Yuan Dynasty main hall. The moment I stepped inside, I noticed the massive wooden beam above the central chamber. Carved into it are ancient Chinese characters: "旹大元岁次庚申延佑七年癸未季夏月乙巳二十乙日巽时鼎建"—marking the exact date of construction: 1320 AD. This inscription, combined with documentary evidence, confirms that this humble-looking hall is the oldest wooden structure in Shanghai.
I was amazed to learn that most of the beams, columns, brackets, and other structural elements are original Yuan Dynasty work, making this one of the most precious surviving examples of Yuan architecture in Chinese Buddhist temples. The hall follows the traditional three-bay by three-bay layout (三间三进) with complex interior construction that has been repaired through various dynasties but never replaced.
Walking Through the Temple Grounds
As I explored further, I discovered that modern additions blend seamlessly with the ancient structures. The temple has added new buildings including a heavenly king hall (天王殿 Tiānwáng Diàn), Guanyin Hall (圆通殿 Yuántōng Diàn), sutra pavilion (藏经楼 Cángjīng Lóu), and various meditation halls. The architectural style maintains the Yuan Dynasty aesthetic—green tiles, white walls, single-eave hip roofs with dragon-shaped ridges—all built from natural wood materials.
The old mountain gate on Qianshi Street (寺前街15号) has been preserved and sealed, with a wooden plaque inscribed "真如寺" in the calligraphy of Zhao Puchu (赵朴初), former president of the Chinese Buddhist Association. The new main entrance faces east, with beautiful wooden gates marked "无愿解脱" (Liberation Without Desire) on the left and "无相解脱" (Liberation Without Form) on the right.
The newly constructed meditation hall connects ingeniously with the east wing via an overhead corridor, creating a unified architectural whole. Every building follows the Yuan Dynasty style—green tiles, white walls, single-eave hip roofs with dragon-shaped ridge ornaments, all using natural wood as the primary decorative element.
Midday: The Wishing Tree and Heavenly King Hall
Entering the first courtyard facing south, I passed through the newly constructed Yuan-style Heavenly King Hall (天王殿), completed in November 1993. The hall features a unique name plaque reading "兜率内院" (Inner Court of Tusita), with new bronze Maitreya statues, clay sculptures of the Four Heavenly Kings, and two Vajra guardian figures (哼哈二将).
But what truly captured my heart were the two ancient ginkgo trees (银杏树 yínxìng shù) standing in the temple courtyard. The one on the west side was planted by the temple's founding monks over 700 years ago, making it the same age as the temple itself—truly a treasure of Zhenru. Despite visiting in winter when the leaves had fallen, I could imagine how magnificent it would look in autumn when the golden leaves frame the temple buildings.
🌳 The Legend of the Wishing Tree
During the Cultural Revolution, the ancient ginkgo was severely damaged and remained barren for years. But when Master Miaoling arrived in 1992 to revive the temple, the tree miraculously came back to life, sprouting new leaves as if responding to the temple's renewal. Locals call it the "Wishing Tree" (许愿树) because so many devotees pray and make wishes before it.
A protection plaque from the Shanghai Municipal Government identifies it as a Class-1 Protected Ancient Tree (一级保护古树), #0067, approximately 650 years old. Standing before it, watching the red prayer ribbons tied to its protective fence fluttering in the breeze, I couldn't help but feel the weight of centuries of devotion.
Afternoon: The Magnificent Zhenru Pagoda
Behind the Guanyin Hall lies the Zhenru Pagoda Courtyard (真如塔院), dominated by a stunning 51-meter tall, nine-story square pagoda built in the Song-Yuan architectural style. Rising majestically into the sky, this pagoda took 15 months to construct, from September 1998 to December 1999. The pagoda's design harmonizes perfectly with the rest of the temple complex.
📿 Sacred Relics
Zhenru Temple was the first temple in Shanghai to house authentic Buddha relics. On November 14, 2004, Master Miaoling personally welcomed the sacred relics at Pudong International Airport to be enshrined in the pagoda's underground palace. The pagoda has 9 exterior levels, 10 interior levels, plus the underground palace—11 levels total.
Someone poetically described the pagoda: "The majestic Zhenru Pagoda rises like a giant dragon soaring into the clouds. The two black marble stones in the lotus pond are its eyes, the stone pillars are its whiskers, the two osmanthus trees are its horns, the pagoda itself is the dragon's body, and the cloud-patterned path before it represents the dragon's scales."
Before the pagoda stands a scripture pillar (经幢) adorned with small lion and bodhisattva sculptures, believed to protect the pagoda and bring good fortune. On both sides of the stairs stand eight Tang-style Sumeru stone lanterns (仿唐须弥石灯), each 3.5 meters tall, arranged around the pagoda. These lanterns, carved with exquisite detail, symbolize "wonderful height and brightness."
At the pagoda's base, two steles erected in 2002 (壬午年四月初八) commemorate the temple's history. The left stele bears "The Record of Zhenru Pagoda" (真如塔记), while the right one records "The Restoration of Zhenru Temple" (重修真如寺记).
Exploring the Sutra Pavilion and Stone Stele Gallery
Behind the pagoda stands the Zhenru Abbot's Quarters and Sutra Pavilion (真如丈室及藏经阁)—a three-story wooden structure with double eaves. The first floor serves as the abbot's quarters, simply furnished with traditional redwood seats and tables. The second and third floors house over 12,000 volumes of Buddhist scriptures, including more than ten editions of the Tripitaka and over 1,000 calligraphy works by famous artists—a quiet, sacred space for Buddhist teaching and meditation.
The entire sutra pavilion uses natural wood doors, windows, and railings, creating an atmosphere of solemn dignity. On either side of the Heavenly King Hall, two-story bell and drum towers extend northward, with the east side featuring the Bell Tower, Ksitigarbha Hall, Manjushri Hall, Medicine Buddha Hall, and meditation halls connected by corridors.
To the west of the main temple complex, along the Taopu River (桃浦河), stretches a 200-meter wooden gallery featuring calligraphy and stone steles. The northern section displays various styles of steles—pagoda-shaped, screen-shaped, drum-shaped, and scripture-pillar-shaped—all inscribed with Buddhist themes by renowned ancient and modern calligraphers.
This stone stele gallery is quite rare in modern temples, showing the abbot's vision. Contemporary Zen paintings hang under the eaves, making this Buddhist culture corridor one of Zhenru Temple's distinctive features.
In the southern section of the gallery, 13 ancient bells dating from the Ming Dynasty Wanli period to the Republican era stand in a row.
Unexpected Encounters: Temple Life
As I wandered through the temple, I encountered its most charming residents—the temple pigeons. These birds seemed incredibly intelligent, responding to human voices. Local devotees told me that if a pigeon flies to you, it means you have a kind heart. Sure enough, within minutes, several pigeons landed nearby, cocking their heads and watching me curiously.
In an irregularly shaped area behind the temple, I discovered a meticulously designed Zen garden with rockeries, flowing water, curved bridges, spherical seats, flower trellises, and a release pond. The entire landscape represents harmony and completeness.
Final Impressions: A Sanctuary in the City
As my day at Zhenru Temple drew to a close, I walked along the riverbank gallery north of the temple complex. The wooden corridor follows the Taopu River for 200 meters, offering peaceful views of the water.
At the intersection of Taopu River and Liyuan Stream stands the Zhenru Bridge (真如桥), a picturesque crossing that completes the scene.
Despite being in the middle of bustling Shanghai, Zhenru Temple maintains an atmosphere of tranquility that makes it ideal for those seeking spiritual peace. As one of Shanghai's four great temples (alongside Jing'an, Longhua, and Jade Buddha), it offers something the others don't—the feeling of having stepped back in time to ancient China.
The temple's quiet elegance, beautiful scenery, lush trees, and green lawns—far from the noise of urban life—make it a rare sanctuary. Whether you're interested in Buddhist culture, ancient architecture, or simply need a peaceful escape from Shanghai's intensity, Zhenru Temple delivers a profoundly moving experience that stays with you long after you leave.
Quick Reference Guide
Getting There
Subway: Line 11 to Zhenru Station (真如站), then 10-minute walk Bus: Routes 01, 105, 129, 319, 323, 340, 551, 706, 717, 742, 750, 827, 838, 858, 950, 948 to Zhenru Town Taxi: Show driver "真如寺, 兰溪路399号"
Best Time to Visit
Spring (March-May): Pleasant weather, blooming flowers Autumn (September-November): Golden ginkgo leaves, comfortable temperatures Avoid: Chinese New Year and major Buddhist holidays if you prefer quiet
What to Bring
Comfortable walking shoes Modest clothing (cover shoulders and knees) Camera (photography allowed in most areas) Cash for donations and offerings
Nearby Attractions
Zhenru Town walking area Putuo District shopping centers Shanghai Urban Planning Exhibition Hall (downtown)