I spent six extraordinary days in Shanghai, turning my stay at the legendary Peace Hotel into a gastronomic pilgrimage through the city's finest Michelin-starred restaurants and most storied neighborhoods. From sizzling shengjian bao at humble street stalls to exquisite French cuisine overlooking the Bund, every meal told a story of Shanghai's evolution from colonial outpost to global culinary capital. Walking the plane tree-lined avenues of the former French Concession, I felt the city's dual soul—European elegance meets Chinese vitality. This isn't just a food tour; it's a journey through time, flavor, and the living history of one of the world's most dynamic cities.
Trip Overview
When: Late April / Early May (April 30 - May 5)
Duration: 6 days
Travelers: Solo
Budget: ~¥3,500-5,000 (~$500-700 USD) for high-end dining
Transportation: Walking + Taxi + Metro
Base: Fairmont Peace Hotel (和平饭店) on The Bund
Day 1: Arrival and The Bund at Night
When I stepped into the Fairmont Peace Hotel (和平饭店), I immediately understood why this 1929 art deco masterpiece has hosted everyone from Charlie Chaplin to Barack Obama. The revolving door swept me into a world of marble floors, chandeliers, and the lingering echoes of jazz that has played here since the 1930s. My room overlooked the Huangpu River, offering a panoramic view of Shanghai's futuristic Pudong skyline on one side and the colonial grandeur of the Bund on the other.
After settling in, I headed to THE NEST for my first dinner in the city. Located in the buzzing Bund waterfront district, this modern European restaurant didn't disappoint. I indulged in their signature M9 Wagyu tomahawk steak—perfectly marbled and cooked to medium-rare perfection. The salmon platter appetizer was as visually stunning as it was delicious, and I ended the meal with their famous lava chocolate cake that oozed richness with every spoonful. As I dined, the glittering lights of Pudong reflected off the river, setting the tone for what would be an unforgettable culinary journey.
🎯 THE NEST - Practical Info
Cuisine: Modern European Location: 6 Zhongshan Dong Er Road, The Bund (中山东二路6号) Signature Dishes: M9 Wagyu Tomahawk (¥688/~$95), Salmon Platter, Lava Chocolate Cake Price Range: ¥400-600 per person (~$55-85) Reservation: Essential for dinner, especially weekends Best For: Romantic dinner with Bund views
Day 2: Michelin Beginnings and French Concession Charm
The morning of May 1st, I woke up hungry for adventure—and breakfast. I made my way to Da Hu Chun (大壶春), a Michelin Bib Gourmand establishment that has been serving Shanghai's iconic shengjian bao (生煎包 – pan-fried pork buns) since 1932. Unlike the more common xiaolongbao, these buns are pan-fried to golden perfection, creating a crispy bottom that contrasts beautifully with the fluffy dough and savory pork filling. Standing in line with locals, I felt like I was participating in a daily ritual that has remained unchanged for nearly a century.
🎯 Da Hu Chun (大壶春) - Practical Info
Cuisine: Shanghai Street Food Location: Multiple locations; I visited the Sichuan Road branch (四川中路136号) Signature: Shengjian Bao (生煎包) - ¥15-20 for 4 pieces (~$2-3) Michelin: Bib Gourmand (2016-2021) Pro Tip: Arrive before 9 AM to avoid lines English Menu: Limited; point to pictures or say "shengjian bao"
Fueled by dumplings, I spent the morning wandering Wukang Road (武康路), one of Shanghai's most picturesque streets in the former French Concession. The avenue is lined with French plane trees and historic villas dating back to the 1920s and 1930s. I passed by the former residences of literary giants and political figures, each building telling stories of Shanghai's cosmopolitan past. The mix of European architecture and Chinese life creates a uniquely Shanghainese atmosphere—elegant yet lived-in, historic yet vibrant.
For lunch, I treated myself to Yi Dao (逸道), a refined one-Michelin-star restaurant specializing in Huaiyang cuisine. This culinary tradition, originating from the Jiangsu province, is one of China's four great classical cooking styles, known for its delicate knife work, balanced flavors, and artistic presentation. The braised pork belly melted in my mouth, while the crystal shrimp showcased the chef's precision—each shrimp identically sized and cooked to translucent perfection. The elegant interior, with its minimalist design and subtle traditional elements, provided the perfect backdrop for this sophisticated meal.
🎯 Yi Dao (逸道) - Practical Info
Cuisine: Huaiyang (淮扬菜) - Refined Chinese Location: 8th Floor, SML Center, 618 Xujiahui Road (徐家汇路618号日月光中心8楼) Michelin: 1 Star (2017-2021) Price Range: ¥300-500 per person (~$40-70) Must-Try: Braised Pork Belly, Crystal Shrimp, Lion's Head Meatballs Reservation: Book 2-3 days ahead
As evening approached, I found myself at Salon de Thé de Joël Robuchon, the legendary French chef's Shanghai outpost. While I didn't have a full dinner here, I couldn't resist sampling their famous pastries and bread in the elegant tea salon. The croissants were buttery perfection—flaky, golden, and unmistakably Parisian. Sipping coffee while watching the world go by on the Bund, I felt the unique blend of French sophistication and Shanghai energy that defines this city.
Day 3: Crabs, Culture, and Contemporary Art
May 2nd began with what might be the most indulgent breakfast I've ever had. I headed to Xie Jia Da Yuan (蟹家大院), a restaurant that serves only one thing: crab roe noodles. At ¥360 (~$50) per bowl, this is street food elevated to luxury status. The dish features hand-pulled wheat noodles topped with a generous mound of fresh crab roe and meat—golden, glistening, and impossibly rich. Each bite tasted like the essence of autumn, even though it was spring. The restaurant's zen-like interior, with its wooden furnishings and minimalist aesthetic, created a meditative atmosphere perfect for savoring every strand.
🎯 Xie Jia Da Yuan (蟹家大院) - Practical Info
Cuisine: Specialty Crab Noodles Location: 59 Guangdong Road, near The Bund (广东路59号) Signature: Crab Roe Noodles (蟹黄面) - ¥360 (~$50) Menu: Only 2 items - Crab Roe Noodles and Crab Meat Noodles Includes: Free flow of plum juice and peanuts Pro Tip: Share one bowl between two people if not super hungry—it's very rich
With a satisfied stomach, I spent the afternoon exploring the French Concession further, then made my way to Tianzifang (田子坊). This labyrinth of narrow alleyways has been transformed from traditional Shikumen (石库门) houses—Shanghai's distinctive lane residences—into a trendy arts and crafts enclave. Wandering through the maze-like passages, I discovered boutique galleries, artisan workshops, and cozy cafes tucked into renovated 1930s architecture. The contrast between the historic brick facades and the contemporary creative energy inside was captivating.
In the afternoon, I visited the Shanghai Museum of Glass Art, a surprisingly engaging contemporary museum that showcases both traditional glass-making techniques and avant-garde installations. The building itself—a converted 1950s glass factory—added industrial chic to the experience. Interactive exhibits allowed me to understand the chemistry and artistry behind glassblowing, while the stunning collection of international glass art demonstrated the medium's incredible versatility.
For dinner, I chose Mr & Mrs Bund, a Michelin Plate French restaurant overlooking the Bund. The restaurant occupies the 6th floor of Bund 18, offering breathtaking views of the illuminated Pudong skyline. Chef Paul Pairet's menu blends classic French techniques with modern creativity. I started with the famous lemon tart—served deconstructed with meringue and citrus segments—followed by a perfectly executed sea bass. The wine list was extensive, and the service was impeccable, striking that perfect balance between formal and friendly.
🎯 Mr & Mrs Bund - Practical Info
Cuisine: Modern French Location: 6th Floor, Bund 18, 18 Zhongshan Dong Yi Road (中山东一路18号6楼) Michelin: Plate (2016-2021) Price Range: ¥500-800 per person (~$70-110) Must-Try: Lemon Tart, Sea Bass, Wagyu Beef View: Request a window table for best Bund views Reservation: Book at least one week ahead
To end the night, I returned to my home base—the Peace Hotel—and ascended to the 9th floor to visit the Cathay Room (华懋阁). This elegant rooftop terrace offers one of the most spectacular views in all of Shanghai. As I sipped a cocktail and watched the neon lights of Pudong dance across the river, I felt deeply connected to the countless travelers, diplomats, and adventurers who had stood in this same spot over the past century, looking out at a city that never stops evolving.
Day 4: Dumpling Legends and Jiangsu Excellence
On May 3rd, I dedicated the morning to one of Shanghai's most iconic culinary experiences: Nanxiang Steamed Bun Restaurant (南翔馒头店). Located in the historic Yu Garden area, this Michelin Bib Gourmand establishment has been making xiaolongbao (小笼包 – soup dumplings) since 1900. Watching the chefs through the glass window, I marveled at their speed and precision—each dumpling perfectly pleated with exactly 18 folds. When my order arrived, I carefully lifted the delicate parcels with my chopsticks, bit a small hole to release the hot soup, then savored the explosion of pork and crab flavor. It was a masterclass in culinary craftsmanship.
🎯 Nanxiang Steamed Bun Restaurant (南翔馒头店) - Practical Info
Cuisine: Shanghai Dim Sum Location: 85 Yuyuan Road, Yu Garden (豫园路85号) Michelin: Bib Gourmand Signature: Crab Roe Xiaolongbao (蟹粉小笼) - ¥68 for 6 (~$9.50) Price Range: ¥60-100 per person (~$8-14) Warning: Very crowded on weekends; expect to queue 30-60 minutes Pro Tip: Visit the upstairs dining room for table service
For lunch, I experienced what many consider the best Jiangsu-Zhejiang cuisine in Shanghai: Xin Rong Ji (新荣记). This one-Michelin-star restaurant has achieved legendary status among Chinese food lovers for its unwavering commitment to quality ingredients and refined technique. The signature yellow croaker fish was simply prepared yet deeply flavorful, showcasing the restaurant's philosophy that great ingredients need little manipulation. The braised sea cucumber demonstrated the kitchen's mastery of texture—silky, succulent, and richly savory. Every dish told a story of the region's coastal bounty and culinary heritage.
🎯 Xin Rong Ji (新荣记) - Practical Info
Cuisine: Jiangsu-Zhejiang (江浙菜) Location: 3rd Floor, 688 Plaza, 688 Nanjing West Road (南京西路688广场3楼) Michelin: 1 Star Price Range: ¥400-600 per person (~$55-85) Must-Try: Yellow Croaker, Braised Sea Cucumber, Drunken Crab Reservation: Essential; book 1-2 weeks ahead Wine: Excellent selection of Chinese rice wines
The afternoon was spent wandering the classical Chinese gardens of Yu Garden (豫园), a peaceful oasis amidst the modern bustle. Built during the Ming Dynasty in the 16th century, these gardens exemplify traditional Chinese landscape design—winding paths, rockeries, ponds, and pavilions arranged according to feng shui principles. I found a quiet corner by the koi pond and sat for a while, watching elderly locals play mahjong and practice tai chi. It was a reminder that despite Shanghai's rapid modernization, ancient traditions still thrive in its pockets of tranquility.
Day 5: Southeast Asian Flavors and French Elegance
May 4th brought a change of pace. For breakfast, I sought out Song Fa Bak Kut Teh, a Singaporean import that has become wildly popular in Shanghai. The peppery pork rib soup, served with white rice and youtiao (fried dough sticks), was comfort food at its finest. The broth was deeply aromatic with white pepper, and the pork ribs were fall-off-the-bone tender. It was a delicious reminder of Shanghai's role as a global crossroads, where culinary traditions from across Asia converge and evolve.
🎯 Song Fa Bak Kut Teh - Practical Info
Cuisine: Singaporean/Malaysian Location: Multiple locations; I visited the Jing'an Kerry Centre branch (南京西路1515号嘉里中心) Signature: Bak Kut Teh (肉骨茶) - Pork Rib Soup - ¥68 (~$9.50) Price Range: ¥80-120 per person (~$11-17) Includes: Free soup refills Pro Tip: Add extra white pepper to taste
The afternoon was dedicated to exploring more of the Bund's historic architecture. I walked the full length of Zhongshan Dong Yi Road, admiring the eclectic mix of architectural styles—neo-classical, art deco, Romanesque, and Gothic—all built by foreign powers during Shanghai's colonial era. Each building once housed banks, trading houses, and clubs that controlled the flow of goods and capital through China. Today, they've been repurposed as luxury hotels, high-end boutiques, and restaurants, but their facades remain unchanged, preserving the street's distinctive historic character.
For my penultimate dinner, I splurged on Jean Georges, the three-Michelin-starred flagship of legendary French chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten. Located on the 4th floor of Three on the Bund, this restaurant represents the pinnacle of fine dining in Shanghai. The tasting menu was a symphony of flavors and textures—caviar with egg and vodka cream, foie gras brûlée, black sea bass with tender herbs, and a chocolate lava cake that redefined the genre. The service was theater—attentive yet unobtrusive, professional yet warm. As I looked out at the illuminated skyline, I understood why Shanghai has become one of the world's great food cities.
🎯 Jean Georges - Practical Info
Cuisine: Contemporary French Location: 4th Floor, Three on the Bund, 3 Zhongshan Dong Yi Road (中山东一路3号4楼) Michelin: 1 Star (3 Stars in NYC) Price Range: ¥800-1,200 per person for tasting menu (~$110-165) Dress Code: Smart casual required Must-Try: Tasting Menu, Caviar Egg, Chocolate Lava Cake Reservation: Book 2-3 weeks ahead
To cap off the evening, I returned once more to the Peace Hotel, this time to visit the legendary Jazz Bar (老年爵士乐队). This intimate venue has hosted China's oldest jazz band since 1980, though the musicians themselves have been performing since the 1940s. Watching these octogenarian musicians play standards like "Fly Me to the Moon" and "Take the A Train" while sipping a whiskey sour, I felt transported to old Shanghai—the Shanghai of the 1930s and 40s when jazz filled the clubs and the city was known as the "Paris of the East." It was the perfect end to a perfect day.
🎯 Peace Hotel Jazz Bar - Practical Info
Location: Ground Floor, Fairmont Peace Hotel Show Times: 7:00 PM - 11:30 PM daily Cover Charge: None, but drinks are pricey (¥100-150/~$14-21 per cocktail) Band: Old Jazz Band (average age: 75+) Best Time: Arrive by 8 PM for good seats Atmosphere: Intimate, nostalgic, unforgettable
Day 6: A Michelin Star Farewell
My final day in Shanghai, May 5th, began with a leisurely morning tea at Yu Bao Xuan (御宝轩), a two-Michelin-star Cantonese restaurant. This elegant establishment offers one of the finest dim sum experiences in the city. The har gow (shrimp dumplings) were translucent and delicate, each containing whole fresh shrimp with a satisfying snap. The char siu bao (barbecue pork buns) were fluffy clouds of perfection, while the chicken feet demonstrated the kitchen's mastery of texture—silky, gelatinous, and deeply flavored with abalone sauce. It was a refined, unhurried meal that embodied the Cantonese tradition of yum cha (饮茶 – drinking tea).
🎯 Yu Bao Xuan (御宝轩) - Practical Info
Cuisine: Cantonese / Dim Sum Location: 5th Floor, 99 Beijing East Road (北京东路99号5楼) Michelin: 2 Stars Price Range: ¥300-500 per person for dim sum (~$40-70) Must-Try: Har Gow, Char Siu Bao, Chicken Feet, Egg Tarts Best For: Weekend brunch (9 AM - 2:30 PM) Reservation: Essential for weekend brunch
As I finished my tea and prepared to check out of the Peace Hotel, I took one last walk along the Bund. The morning light cast long shadows across the colonial facades, and the Huangpu River flowed steadily past, carrying cargo ships and tourist boats. I thought about everything I'd experienced over the past six days—the Michelin stars and street food, the historic lanes and futuristic skyline, the ancient traditions and cutting-edge innovation.
Shanghai is a city of contrasts, where east meets west, old meets new, and humble street food stands shoulder-to-shoulder with world-class fine dining. It's a place that rewards curiosity and appetite—both culinary and cultural. As my taxi pulled away from the hotel, heading toward Pudong International Airport, I knew I'd be back. This city has a way of getting under your skin, of showing you just enough to make you want more.
If you're planning your own culinary journey through Shanghai, my advice is simple: come hungry, bring comfortable walking shoes, and be prepared to have your expectations exceeded. Whether you're dining at a three-Michelin-star temple of gastronomy or a hole-in-the-wall serving shengjian bao, Shanghai delivers flavors and experiences that will stay with you long after you've boarded your flight home.
Quick Reference Guide
Restaurant Reservations
Michelin-starred restaurants: Book 1-3 weeks in advance Popular local spots: Arrive early or expect to queue English: Most high-end restaurants have English-speaking staff Payment: WeChat Pay and Alipay preferred; credit cards accepted at hotels
Getting Around
Metro: Clean, efficient, and signs in English Taxi: Have your destination written in Chinese Walking: Best way to explore the French Concession and Bund Maglev: Take it at least once from the airport—it's the world's fastest train!
Budget Breakdown
Michelin dining: ¥3,000-5,000 (~$420-700) for 6 days Accommodation: Peace Hotel ¥1,500-2,500/night (~$210-350) Transportation: ¥200-300 total (~$28-42) Attractions: Most are free or under ¥100
Best Time to Visit
Spring (April-May): Mild weather, blooming flowers—ideal for walking Fall (October-November): Clear skies, comfortable temperatures Avoid: Summer (hot and humid) and Chinese New Year (crowded)