I spent six extraordinary days traversing from the quiet fishing villages of Gouqi Island to the glittering metropolis of Shanghai—a journey that felt like traveling through time itself. Watching local women weave traditional green fishing nets by hand at dawn, crossing the dramatic Sanjiao River Bridge that connects two worlds, and then finding myself swept into the neon-lit frenzy of the Bund and Nanjing Road, I discovered the incredible duality of coastal China.
Trip Overview
When: Late October 2020
Duration: 6 days
Travelers: Solo
Route: Gouqi Island (枸杞岛 Gǒuqǐ Dǎo) → Shanghai
Transportation: Ferry + Bus + Walking
Gouqi Island: Dawn at the Fishing Market
I woke up at 3 AM to the sound of engines and voices rising from below my sea-view guesthouse. When I opened the window of my "Hai Zhi Du" (海之都 "Sea Capital") room, the autumn air carried the energy of the spontaneous fish market that materializes daily before dawn. Several large fishing vessels had docked just meters from my balcony, and fishermen were unloading crates of fish, shrimp, and crabs directly onto the concrete—business conducted by flashlight, with trucks waiting to haul the catch away.
The owner of my guesthouse mentioned that his son owns a fishing boat worth 16 million yuan. Every day, it ventures into the open sea, and when storms hit, they dock at Jeju Island in Korea, where he said the locals treat Chinese fishermen with surprising warmth. The empty ground in front of the hotel was covered in green fishing nets left to dry—nets that would soon return to the sea.
🎯 Practical Info: Gouqi Island Fishing Market
Best Time: 3:00-5:00 AM for the freshest catch Location: Near the main pier, spontaneous gathering Payment: Cash preferred by local fishermen Pro Tip: Bring a flashlight and don't expect English speakers—use gestures and smartphone calculators
Sanjiao River Bridge: Engineering Marvel Over Troubled Waters
The evening before, I had seen the lights of the Sanjiao River Bridge (三礁江大桥 Sānjiāo Jiāng Dàqiáo) stretching across the horizon. Now, in daylight, I finally understood its significance. Completed on January 6, 2010, after three years and nine months of construction, this bridge changed everything for the islands. Before its completion, the only way to travel between Gouqi Island and Shenshan Island (嵊山岛 Shèngshān Dǎo) was by ferry—a journey dependent on weather and tides that could strand travelers for days.
Walking across the 685-meter span, I felt the full force of the East China Sea wind. The bridge features three towers with double cable-stayed spans, painted in striking blue, white, and yellow stripes that seem almost playful against the serious engineering. At 14.2 meters above the water with a 12-meter-wide deck, it's a marvel of persistence—the Zhejiang Provincial Department of Transportation ranked it among the province's five most challenging projects due to typhoons, complex currents, and the difficulty of building in open water.
Below, I spotted fishermen casting lines from the rocky outcrops—local anglers taking advantage of the shelter created by the bridge's massive pylons. The wind was fierce, but the views were spectacular. Every photo I took seemed to capture a different mood of the sea.
🎯 Practical Info: Sanjiao River Bridge
Length: 685 meters main span Height: 14.2 meters clearance above water Opened: January 6, 2010 Best For: Photography (especially at sunset), connecting the two islands Warning: Hold onto your hat—the wind is intense!
The Hands That Weave: Conversations Along the Road
After exploring the bridge, I walked toward Dawang Village (大王村 Dàwáng Cūn). Along both sides of the road, green fishing nets carpeted the ground like emerald snow. Women sat in small groups, weaving and repairing nets with movements so practiced they seemed meditative. Their hats were fascinating—wide-brimmed cloth coverings that shielded their entire heads, leaving only their eyes visible against the sun and wind.
I had assumed this tedious work belonged to migrant laborers. After all, my taxi driver had told me that locals "don't lack money"—many families earn millions annually and buy apartments in Hangzhou or Ningbo. With only 10,000 permanent residents and a school that only goes to sixth grade (each grade with just a dozen students), parents are leaving for cities where their children can get better education. The driver predicted Gouqi would become a second "ghost village" within a few years.
So I was surprised when one woman told me they were all locals. "Outsiders don't know how to do this work," she said, fingers never pausing. I realized my assumptions were wrong—these wealthy islanders still practiced their ancestral craft not from necessity, but from tradition and perhaps love for the sea that had sustained their families for generations.
🎯 Cultural Context: Net Weaving
Green Nets: Traditional color believed to be less visible to fish Hand-weaving: Still preferred over machine-made for durability and precision Time Investment: Large nets can take weeks to complete Observation: Ask permission before photographing—these are working people, not tourist attractions
Dawang Village: The Quiet Heart of the Island
After an hour of walking past beaches closed for repairs and new construction sites, I reached Dawang Village. Off-season in late October meant the village was surprisingly quiet—fewer shops than I expected, restaurants scattered rather than clustered, and a fraction of the summer crowds. Construction was everywhere, and I couldn't help feeling that Gouqi was transforming into something more commercial, more packaged. I found myself glad to see it now, before it becomes unrecognizable.
I passed guesthouses with balconies far nicer than mine, offering better sea views and newer amenities. The whole island seemed to be building upward, preparing for a future of tourism that would inevitably change its character. When I reached the bus terminal, I caught the return bus, grateful for the ride back.
🎯 Practical Info: Dawang Village
Main Beach: Dawang Beach (大王沙滩) - largest on the island, often under maintenance off-season Transportation: Local bus connects to other villages (¥2-5 per ride) Timing: Visit in early morning or late afternoon for fewer crowds Note: Many facilities close or undergo renovation October-April
Back to Shanghai: From Village to Metropolis
At 1:30 PM, I boarded the ferry back to Nanpu Dock, then endured a two-hour bus ride into Shanghai. The contrast couldn't have been more stark—just hours earlier I'd been watching women weave nets by hand; now I was surrounded by the electric energy of 26 million people.
After dinner, I met up with Xiao Wen, a friend who had visited the Bund (外滩 Wàitān) three times. Her familiarity proved invaluable. Within an hour, she guided me through the most efficient route: the historic Bund promenade followed by Nanjing Road Pedestrian Street (南京路步行街 Nánjīng Lù Bùxíng Jiē).
The Bund: Where History Meets the Future
Standing on the Bund, I faced the Huangpu River (黄浦江 Huángpǔ Jiāng)—China's mother river—while behind me rose 52 buildings of classical revival architecture that tell the story of Shanghai's colonial past. Gothic, Romanesque, Baroque, and Chinese-Western hybrid styles create what locals call the "Museum of International Architecture."
The Oriental Pearl Tower (东方明珠塔 Dōngfāng Míngzhū Tǎ) dominated the Pudong skyline across the river, its distinctive spheres catching the evening light. From a distance, it looked like a sword piercing the sky; up close, like a string of pearls; and in photographs, like a futuristic pagoda. As darkness fell, the tower transformed into a constellation of lights.
Xiao Wen stopped at a directional sign and insisted I photograph it. Only later did I notice the clever design—the street names pointed in their actual directions, a small detail that delighted me.
The Bund at night is pure magic. The colonial buildings glow with warm golden light, the river reflects the neon from Pudong's skyscrapers, and the crowds create an energy that's intoxicating. This is where old Shanghai meets new China, where history and ambition coexist in spectacular harmony.
🎯 Practical Info: The Bund
Best Time: 7:00-9:00 PM for the full light show Entry: Free Key Landmarks: Oriental Pearl Tower, Jin Mao Tower, Customs House clock tower (plays "The East is Red" on the hour) Pro Tip: Walk from south to north to end near Nanjing Road Photography: Tripods discouraged by security; arrive early for tripod spots
Nanjing Road: The World's Shopping Stage
By 8 PM, we reached Nanjing Road Pedestrian Street, which locals proudly compare to Paris's Champs-Élysées and New York's Fifth Avenue. The 1,033-meter stretch is pedestrian-only, lined with century-old Chinese brands, flagship stores, and architectural styles that span from Art Deco to hyper-modern.
This wasn't the Nanjing Road of the "Good Eighth Company" revolutionary songs—this was fashion, modernity, and commerce in full force. The wide central walkway allowed for easy strolling and photography without dodging traffic. Decorative sculptures, flower beds, and even a sightseeing train (¥10 for a full circuit) made the street feel designed for enjoyment rather than just shopping.
Old brands and new global names shared the same street, all wrapped in bright signage and clean lines. We stopped for bubble tea on a bench beneath the trees, scrolling through photos from the day while the city pulsed around us.
🎯 Practical Info: Nanjing Road
Length: 1,033 meters (East Nanjing Road is the pedestrian section) Hours: Shops typically 10:00 AM - 10:00 PM; street open 24/7 Sightseeing Train: ¥10 (~$1.40 USD) for full loop, great for tired feet Best For: People watching, neon photography, souvenir shopping Food: Food court in basement of major department stores
Reflections: Two Worlds, One Journey
Standing on the corner where Nanjing Road meets the Bund, I thought about the morning's net-weavers. The same country that still has women sitting roadside practicing crafts their grandmothers taught them also builds towers that pierce the clouds and bridges that conquer the sea.
Shanghai's luxury and vitality threw Gouqi Island's quiet dignity into sharp relief. Both are authentically Chinese, both are changing rapidly, and both offered me experiences I'll carry forever. This journey from fishing nets to skyscrapers taught me that China's true magic lies in its contradictions—in the ability to contain centuries of tradition and decades of hyper-modernity within the same six days.
Quick Reference Guide
Getting to Gouqi Island
From Shanghai: Take bus or metro to Nanpu Bridge Bus Station, then ferry to Shengsi County, transfer to Gouqi Island Travel Time: 4-6 hours total Best Season: May-October (warmer, all facilities open)
Where to Stay
Budget: Sea-view guesthouses run ¥150-300/night off-season Location: Near the pier for easy access to boats and market Tip: Book in advance during summer; negotiate off-season
Language & Communication
Gouqi Island: Minimal English; download translation app Shanghai: More English spoken in tourist areas Useful Phrases: "Duōshǎo qián?" (How much?), "Xièxiè" (Thank you)
Budget Breakdown (6 Days)
Accommodation: ¥900-1,800 (~$130-260 USD) Transportation: ¥600-800 (~$85-115 USD) - ferries, buses, taxis Food: ¥600-1,000 (~$85-145 USD) - seafood on island, varied in Shanghai Activities: ¥200-400 (~$30-60 USD) - mostly free attractions Total: ~¥2,300-4,000 (~$330-580 USD) for 6 days