I spent nine incredible days driving through some of China's most breathtaking landscapes, from the azure waters of Lugu Lake to the soaring peaks of Daocheng Yading. This 2,400-kilometer road trip took me through the heart of southwestern China, where I navigated the treacherous Tiger Leaping Gorge, wandered the cobblestone streets of ancient Lijiang, and camped under star-filled skies at 4,500 meters above sea level. Whether you're seeking the serene beauty of high-altitude lakes, the rich culture of Tibetan monasteries, or the adventure of driving through some of Asia's most spectacular mountain passes, this journey delivers an unforgettable mix of natural wonders and authentic experiences that few international travelers ever discover.
Trip Overview
When: April 2020 (Spring)
Duration: 9 days
Travelers: With friends
Budget: ~1,500 RMB (~$210 USD) per person
Transportation: Self-drive (shared costs among 5 travelers)
Total Distance: ~2,400 km
Day 1: Chengdu to Xichang – Gateway to the Mountains
When I started the engine in Chengdu that morning, I couldn't have imagined the adventure waiting ahead. The 450-kilometer drive to Xichang took about six hours, carrying us from Sichuan's bustling plains toward the rugged beauty of the Liangshan Yi Autonomous Prefecture.
We arrived in Xichang by late afternoon and checked into a local hotel. That evening, I experienced something truly memorable – sitting around a Yi ethnic group's fire pit barbecue (火盆烧烤, Huǒpén Shāokǎo), tearing into massive chunks of grilled meat and toasting with bowls of strong local liquor. The Yi people are known for their hospitality and bold flavors, and that first night set the tone for the cultural immersion to come.
🎯 Practical Info – Day 1
Distance: 450 km (~280 miles) Driving Time: ~6 hours Dinner Recommendation: Yi-style fire pit barbecue in Xichang Pro Tip: Start early (8 AM) to avoid traffic leaving Chengdu
Day 2: Xichang to Lugu Lake – Into Mosuo Territory
The real adventure began as we left Xichang and headed toward Lugu Lake (泸沽湖, Lúgū Hú). The 299-kilometer journey took us through some of the most dramatic scenery I'd ever seen – winding mountain roads, deep valleys, and the vast expanse of Qionghai Lake glittering in the morning sun.
Crossing the Daliang Mountains (大凉山, Dàliáng Shān) was an experience in itself. The road climbed and twisted through Yi ethnic villages where traditional wooden houses cling to steep hillsides. We arrived at Lugu Lake by mid-afternoon, and the first sight of that pristine blue water took my breath away.
After settling into our lakeside guesthouse, we took a traditional Mosuo wooden boat (猪槽船, Zhūcáo Chuán) out onto the lake. As the sun dipped below the mountains, painting the sky in brilliant oranges and purples, local Mosuo women sang traditional songs that echoed across the water. That evening, we sampled authentic Mosuo cuisine – hearty mountain dishes featuring locally grown vegetables and freshwater fish.
🎯 Practical Info – Day 2
Distance: 299 km (~186 miles) Driving Time: ~7 hours (mountain roads) Must-Do: Evening boat ride on Lugu Lake Entry Fee: ¥100 (~$14) for lake access
Day 3: Exploring Lugu Lake – The Kingdom of Women
I woke up early, determined to catch the sunrise over Lugu Lake. Standing on the shore as the first rays of light touched the water, I understood why the Mosuo people call this place home. The lake's crystal-clear waters reflect the surrounding mountains like a perfect mirror.
We spent the day driving around the 80-kilometer lakeside road, stopping at various viewpoints and villages. At Nise Village (尼赛村, Nísài Cūn), I found the famous Lover's Trees (情人树, Qíngrén Shù) – two trees that have grown intertwined for centuries, symbolizing eternal love in Mosuo culture.
Xiaoluoshui Village (小落水, Xiǎoluòshuǐ) offered a glimpse into authentic Mosuo life – one of the oldest settlements where traditional matrilineal customs remain strong. The Mosuo are one of China's few remaining matriarchal societies, where women head households and inheritance passes through the female line.
At Luyuan Cliff (泸源涯, Lúyuán Yá), I stood at the highest point overlooking the lake's source, marveling at how this massive body of water originates from underground springs. We walked across the famous Walking Marriage Bridge (走婚桥, Zǒuhūn Qiáo) at Caohai Lake (草海, Cǎohǎi), where local tradition says young couples must walk hand-in-hand from one end to the other for good luck.
The day ended at Goddess Bay (女神湾, Nǚshén Wān), where I sat on the pebble beach waiting for sunset. When the sun finally dipped behind Goddess Mountain (格姆女神山, Gémǔ Nǚshén Shān), painting the lake in shades of gold and crimson, I felt a sense of peace that city life could never provide.
🎯 Practical Info – Day 3
Driving Distance: 80 km around the lake Best Photo Spots: Lover's Trees, Goddess Bay at sunset Cultural Note: Respect local customs; ask before photographing residents Pro Tip: Rent an electric scooter for more flexibility
Day 4: Lugu Lake to Lijiang – Entering Naxi Kingdom
Saying goodbye to Lugu Lake wasn't easy, but the promise of Lijiang (丽江, Lìjiāng) pulled us forward. The 292-kilometer drive followed winding provincial roads through increasingly lush landscapes. Every turn revealed new vistas – terraced fields, rushing rivers, and distant snow-capped peaks.
We arrived in Lijiang by mid-afternoon and immediately felt the difference. While Lugu Lake felt remote and timeless, Lijiang's Old Town buzzed with energy. Yet as I wandered through the maze of cobblestone streets, canals, and traditional Naxi wooden architecture, I understood why this UNESCO World Heritage site draws travelers from around the world.
The iconic water wheels at the town's entrance have become the symbol of Lijiang – massive wooden structures that have been turning for centuries, powered by the clear mountain streams that flow through the town. I spent hours getting lost in the narrow lanes, discovering hidden courtyards, traditional teahouses, and local artisans practicing ancient crafts.
As night fell, Lijiang transformed. Red lanterns illuminated the canals, creating a magical atmosphere. We found a small bar along the water, ordered local Naxi snacks and rice wine, and listened to live music. Whether or not Lijiang truly is China's "city of romance" as the rumors suggest, there's no denying its enchanting nighttime atmosphere.
🎯 Practical Info – Day 4
Distance: 292 km (~181 miles) Driving Time: ~4.5 hours Accommodation: Stay inside Old Town for atmosphere, outside for quieter nights Entry Fee: ¥80 (~$11) maintenance fee for Old Town
Day 5: Lijiang to Shangri-La – Into Tibetan Heartland
The drive from Lijiang to Shangri-La (香格里拉, Xiānggélǐlā) would prove to be one of the most spectacular of the entire journey. We departed early, knowing we had two major stops ahead.
First came Tiger Leaping Gorge (虎跳峡, Hǔtiào Xiá). As I descended the trail toward the Jinsha River, the roar of water grew louder. Then suddenly, there it was – one of the world's deepest canyons, where the river squeezes through a mere 30-meter gap between towering cliffs. The power of the water crashing against massive boulders left me speechless. This 18-kilometer gorge, with a vertical drop of 3,790 meters, lives up to its reputation as one of China's most dramatic natural wonders.
After lunch, we continued toward Ganden Sumtseling Monastery (噶丹·松赞林寺, Gādān Sōngzànlín Sì), often called the "Little Potala Palace." Rising on a hillside above the town, this massive Tibetan Buddhist monastery complex dominates the landscape with its golden roofs and white walls. Founded in 1679, it's the largest Tibetan Buddhist monastery in Yunnan Province and serves as the religious center for the region.
In the evening, we explored Dukezong Ancient Town (独克宗古城, Dúkèzōng Gǔchéng), a 1,300-year-old Tibetan settlement that once served as a crucial hub on the Tea Horse Road. The town's giant prayer wheel – the world's largest – requires at least eight people to turn. As we joined locals in spinning it, I felt a connection to centuries of pilgrims who had passed through this same spot.
🎯 Practical Info – Day 5
Distance: 173 km (~107 miles) Driving Time: ~3.5 hours (plus stops) Tiger Leaping Gorge Entry: ¥65 (~$9) Sumtseling Monastery: ¥115 (~$16) including shuttle bus Altitude: Shangri-La sits at 3,200m – first signs of altitude for some
Day 6: Shangri-La to Yading – The Longest Drive
If Day 5 was about stunning stops, Day 6 was pure endurance. The 310 kilometers from Shangri-La to Riwa Township (日瓦乡, Rìwǎ Xiāng), the gateway to Yading Nature Reserve, took eight hours of challenging mountain driving.
The road climbed steadily, passing through alpine meadows where yaks grazed against a backdrop of snow-capped peaks. Prayer flags fluttered at every mountain pass, their colors vivid against the blue sky. We crossed multiple 4,000-meter passes, and I could feel the altitude with every step.
By the time we reached Riwa, exhaustion had set in, but the location made up for it. We decided to camp at a designated high-altitude campsite rather than stay in a hotel. As night fell and the stars emerged – more stars than I'd ever seen in my life – I understood why they call this region "the last Shangri-La." The Milky Way stretched across the sky in a brilliant band of light, and we even spotted several shooting stars.
🎯 Practical Info – Day 6
Distance: 310 km (~193 miles) Driving Time: ~8 hours (rough mountain roads, speed limits) Altitude: Riwa at ~2,900m, passes exceed 4,000m Accommodation: Hotels in Riwa or designated camping areas Warning: Start taking altitude sickness medication 3 days before arrival
Day 7: Yading Nature Reserve – The Blue Planet's Last Pristine Land
Yading (亚丁, Yàdīng) is often called "the last Shangri-La" and "the last pure land on the blue planet," and now I understand why. This protected area in Daocheng County showcases China's most pristine alpine ecosystem – crystal-clear lakes, ancient forests, and three sacred peaks that tower over 6,000 meters.
We started early, taking the shuttle bus from the visitor center to the trailhead at Chonggu Monastery (冲古寺, Chōnggǔ Sì). From there, I chose to hike rather than take the electric cart, wanting to experience the landscape at walking pace. The trail wound through forests of ancient pines, past rushing streams fed by glacial meltwater.
First came Pearl Lake (珍珠海, Zhēnzhū Hǎi), a small but stunning alpine lake reflecting the north face of Mount Chenresig (仙乃日, Xiānnǎirì), the 6,023-meter peak representing the Bodhisattva of Compassion. The turquoise water seemed almost unreal in its clarity.
From there, the serious hike began toward Luorong Pasture (洛绒牛场, Luòróng Niúchǎng) and beyond to Milk Lake (牛奶海, Niúnǎi Hǎi) and Five-Color Lake (五色海, Wǔsè Hǎi). The altitude – we were hiking between 4,200 and 4,700 meters – made every step an effort. I saw several hikers turn back, defeated by the thin air.
But those who persevered were rewarded. Standing before Milk Lake, its waters an impossible shade of milky turquoise surrounded by towering peaks, I felt overwhelmed by the raw beauty. Five-Color Lake, with its ever-changing colors depending on the light and viewing angle, seemed almost mystical.
The hike back down seemed to take forever, my legs trembling with exhaustion. But the memory of those alpine lakes, set against three of the world's most beautiful mountains, will stay with me forever.
🎯 Practical Info – Day 7
Entry Fee: ¥150 (~$21) + ¥120 (~$17) shuttle bus Electric Cart: ¥80 (~$11) round trip (optional, saves 6km) Hiking Distance: 10-15 km depending on route Altitude: 4,200m to 4,700m – severe altitude sickness risk Critical: Take altitude medication; turn back if symptoms worsen
Day 8: Riwa to Xinduqiao – Crossing the Tibetan Plateau
Leaving Yading meant saying goodbye to one of the most beautiful places I've ever seen, but the journey continued. Today's 450-kilometer drive to Xinduqiao (新都桥, Xīndūqiáo) would take us through the heart of the Tibetan Plateau.
The highlight was crossing Zheduo Pass (折多山, Zhéduō Shān), at 4,298 meters one of the highest paved roads in the region. Looking out over the endless sea of grasslands stretching to the horizon, dotted with black yak-hair tents and prayer flags snapping in the wind, I felt like I'd been transported to another world.
Xinduqiao is known as "the photographer's paradise" for good reason. Unfortunately, we visited in April, just before the peak season when wildflowers carpet the alpine meadows. Local photographers told us that June and July transform this area into a riot of colors – purple, yellow, and white wildflowers as far as the eye can see.
Even so, the scenery didn't disappoint. Rolling grasslands backed by snow-capped peaks, traditional Tibetan villages with whitewashed houses and golden roof ornaments, and the golden light of late afternoon creating long shadows across the landscape – Xinduqiao earned its reputation.
We camped again that night, this time at around 4,500 meters. The cold was intense, but watching the sunrise paint the surrounding peaks in shades of pink and gold made the discomfort worthwhile.
🎯 Practical Info – Day 8
Distance: 450 km (~280 miles) Driving Time: ~8 hours Best Season: June-July for wildflowers Altitude: Xinduqiao at ~3,500m, passes exceed 4,200m
Day 9: Xinduqiao to Chengdu – Homeward Bound
The final 350 kilometers back to Chengdu felt bittersweet. We had the option to stop in Kangding (康定, Kāngdìng), famous as the origin of the Chinese folk song "Kangding Love Song," but we were eager to complete the loop.
The road descended from the plateau, passing through increasingly lush valleys as we approached Sichuan's basin. By the time we reached Chengdu, nine days and over 2,400 kilometers after we'd started, I felt both exhausted and exhilarated.
This road trip had taken me through some of the most diverse and spectacular landscapes in China – from the serene waters of Lugu Lake to the thundering rapids of Tiger Leaping Gorge, from ancient Naxi towns to pristine Tibetan monasteries, from alpine meadows at 4,500 meters to the lush valleys of western Sichuan. I'd experienced cultures vastly different from anything I'd known, pushed my physical limits hiking at extreme altitude, and formed friendships that would last a lifetime.
For anyone considering this journey, my advice is simple: go. Share the costs with friends, take your time, respect the altitude, and prepare to be amazed. Southwestern China holds treasures that too few international travelers ever discover. I'm grateful I had the chance to experience them.
🎯 Practical Info – Day 9
Distance: 350 km (~217 miles) Driving Time: ~5.5 hours Optional Stop: Kangding (康定) – 2-3 hours detour
Quick Reference Guide
Complete Route Overview
Day Route Distance Time 1 Chengdu → Xichang 450 km 6 hrs 2 Xichang → Lugu Lake 299 km 7 hrs 3 Lugu Lake (loop) 80 km Full day 4 Lugu Lake → Lijiang 292 km 4.5 hrs 5 Lijiang → Shangri-La 173 km 3.5 hrs 6 Shangri-La → Riwa/Yading 310 km 8 hrs 7 Yading Nature Reserve – Full day 8 Riwa → Xinduqiao 450 km 8 hrs 9 Xinduqiao → Chengdu 350 km 5.5 hrs Total – ~2,404 km 9 days
Budget Breakdown (Per Person, Group of 5)
Car Rental + Fuel: ~600 RMB (~$84) Accommodation: ~500 RMB (~$70) – mix of hotels and camping Entry Fees: ~300 RMB (~$42) – Lugu Lake, Lijiang, Tiger Leaping Gorge, Sumtseling, Yading Food: ~100 RMB (~$14) per day × 9 = ~900 RMB (~$126) Total: ~2,300 RMB (~$320) per person
Note: Original estimate was 1,500 RMB, but actual costs with entrance fees typically run higher. Budget 2,000-2,500 RMB per person for comfort.
Essential Packing List
Warm clothing (temperatures drop below freezing at altitude) Sunscreen (UV is intense at 4,000m+) Altitude sickness medication (Diamox or local alternatives) Sunglasses and hat Snacks and water for long drives Portable charger (power outages common in remote areas) Cash (many places don't accept cards)
Driving Tips
Mountain roads are winding – expect average speeds of 40-60 km/h Fill up whenever possible – gas stations are scarce in remote areas Drive defensively – local drivers can be unpredictable Check weather – mountain passes can close due to snow or landslides Carry spare tire and basic tools
Altitude Sickness Warning
This route reaches altitudes over 4,500 meters. Altitude sickness can be life-threatening.
Start taking altitude medication (acetazolamide/Diamox) 2-3 days before ascending Ascend gradually – don't rush to high altitude Stay hydrated – drink 3-4 liters of water daily Avoid alcohol at altitude If experiencing severe headache, nausea, or difficulty breathing – DESCEND IMMEDIATELY