Trip Overview
When: May (best weather in spring)
Duration: 3 days
Travelers: With friends
Budget: ~3,000 RMB (~$420 USD) per person
Transportation: Self-drive from Kunming to Lijiang
There's a saying: a hundred people visit Lijiang (丽江) and discover a hundred different landscapes. After nearly a decade of returning to this place—in different seasons, with different companions—I've come to understand why. This ancient town in Yunnan Province (云南省) has a way of revealing new facets each time you return.
Day 1: Shuhe Ancient Town (束河古镇) - A Reunion with an Old Friend
They say: "Shuhe is for one person, Lijiang is for a crowd." Smaller and more laid-back than its famous neighbor, Shuhe Ancient Town (束河古镇) has a peaceful charm that grows on you from the first step. I fell in love with this place the moment I first visited years ago, and every return visit only deepens that affection.
Walking on the weathered stone paths, with streams murmuring beside you and ancient trees swaying gently in the warm sun—this is the ideal life I imagined. The阳光 (sunlight) here has a way of loosening both body and mind, emptying your thoughts of everything but the present moment.
The dark red paint on ancient wooden shop fronts, craftsmen making手工 (handicrafts) by the road, elders sitting idly outside their homes—every corner of this town bustles with its own rhythm, painting an authentic picture of old-world charm.
Compared to previous years, the ancient town is much quieter now. Even Sifang Square (四方街) sees fewer tourists. That's when you realize how quickly time passes—seven years have slipped away in what feels like an instant. This place holds my most treasured memories of youth.
What hasn't changed is its unhurried rhythm—not trying to please anyone, just existing in its own little world, content with its own pace. Whether you come or not, it's always there.
The only thing that truly changes is us. In Shuhe, time slows down, giving us more moments to reflect on ourselves and our past. Over the years, I've traveled to many places and met many people, but the stories that happened in Shuhe are like a fine wine from last night—intoxicating now, but even better when回味 (reminiscing) later.
Accommodation: Huajian Tang Moxiang Courtyard (花间堂墨香院)
This is my go-to inn every time I visit Shuhe. Located in the heart of the ancient town, just steps from Sifang Square, it's known as the "land of phoenixes carrying books"—living up to its reputation as the most scholarly of all Huajian Courtyard properties.
Walking into the courtyard, there's that adorable小狗 (little dog) again, lazily sprawled on a bench basking in the sun, looking deep in thought. Every visit, I see it—it's like we're old friends. I sat beside it, patted its little head, and it seemed to recognize me.
The history of Moxiang Courtyard dates back to the first year of the Yongzheng Emperor (1723), when locals established an "义学馆" (charity school). In the 11th year of Qianlong's reign, descendants built "文昌宫" (Wenchang Palace), greatly promoting cultural education and establishing three private academies—earning Shuhe its reputation as a village of talent.
Today, Huajian Tang has woven Shuhe's unique "private school culture" into the inn's design. The overall style and layout are exactly my cup of tea. It was raining that day, making the courtyard exceptionally peaceful—a perfect setting to sit, read, and reflect.
Here, you can sit cross-legged on cushions with an ancient book, reciting poetry softly. The fragrances of tea, flowers, and ink swirl around you—suddenly, it's like time-traveling to an ancient private school. There's almost an illusion of Liang Shanbo and Zhu Yingtai studying together.
Many fates are discovered inadvertently—seemingly plain, yet deeply meaningful. For one fleeting moment, I wanted to hide away here forever, leaving worldly affairs behind, returning to the most primitive essence of life.
Day 2: Lijiang Ancient Town (丽江古城) - Memories Like a Storyteller
The first time I learned about Lijiang, I desperately wanted to see the ancient town. Stone-paved long alleys, wisps of ancient cooking smoke, occasionally a leisurely passerby—this was the ancient town of my imagination.
After visiting many times, I've seen its noise and superficiality, feeling far from my initial expectations. But this visit, I seemed to see its original appearance again—pure and beautiful.
Fewer tourists were around, and only half the shops had opened—this was the quietest I've ever seen it. Bars couldn't operate yet, so singers gathered in groups on the street, sitting on the ground, singing. Seeing this scene, I felt inexplicably moved.
You said that the real Lijiang exists between when tourists are asleep and when they wake up. But now, every day is its best moment. The tranquil streets, the gurgling streams beneath small bridges, ancient黛瓦红墙 (dark tiles and red walls), the mottled texture of countless stories—every unweathered trace is a poetic, picturesque narration.
Accommodation: Tinghua Tang Private Garden Inn (听花堂私人花园客栈)
How many inns are there in the ancient town? I don't know, but this one has the best view. Located on Lion Mountain (狮子山), it commands a panoramic view of the entire ancient town.
Walking into the inn, there's a错觉 (illusion) of entering a garden—flower fragrance fills the air, colorful flowers compete to bloom. Such a flower-themed courtyard, which beauty lover wouldn't adore it?
The entire inn consists of three adjacent courtyards, each with a different style. The concierge is very attentive—after booking, they'll contact you promptly and even pick you up if you don't know the way.
It had just rained, and the air in the courtyard was fresh. Unloading both luggage and fatigue, I enjoyed a comfortable, tranquil life like a local here.
Flowers are the eternal theme at Tinghua Tang—every corner has different blooms. When the breeze passes, flowers sway like dancers in beautiful long dresses.
Forgotten in this sea of flowers are all worries—the heart yearning for beauty and freedom is awakened. Listening to rain, appreciating flowers—the most beautiful isn't the rainy day, but the eaves we sheltered under together.
The courtyard is spacious, with a new Chinese design style. In the evening, you can lean on the railing on the second floor to view the moon. I used to worry about rain when I came before, but after arriving, I felt rain has its own charm.
Years ago, I had a dream—to have my own courtyard filled with various flowers. When they're in full bloom, I'd invite friends over to drink under the flower trees, chat until we can't walk. Coming to Tinghua Tang feels like stepping into that dream of mine—warm, romantic, with flowers blooming in all seasons. How wonderful.
The rooms are spacious, with a novel, stylish design that young people love. The bedding and amenities are comfortable—you can see the attention to detail. The staff are on call, helping with various problems like directions and luggage handling. Impeccable service.
With the concierge's permission, I also climbed to the roof and wore my Hanfu (汉服, traditional Chinese clothing). This rooftop is the inn's internet-famous photo spot—just be careful with safety when taking photos.
I didn't get the sunset I wanted—some regret. But I captured photos I love, making it a satisfying trip. Next time, I'll stay longer.
Food Recommendation: Dianzang Stone Pot Feast (滇藏石锅宴)
The ancient town has many food options, with spicy flavors and primarily Naxi (纳西) cuisine, plus Yunnan and Sichuan dishes. The restaurant I always visit is Dianzang Stone Pot Feast (滇藏石锅宴)—its taste is worth traveling far特意 (specifically) for.
The restaurant is located on Qiyi Street (七一街), Chongren Lane (崇仁巷). At meal times, it's always packed with customers needing to wait for seats. Those familiar with Motuo Stone Pot Chicken (墨脱石锅鸡) will know this is the only place in Lijiang to get authentic Motuo stone pot chicken.
In the Yunnan region, locals prefer cooking in stone pots. Motuo's (墨脱) stone pots are the most famous—they can only be made in Motuo itself. The pot itself contains various trace elements needed by the human body and gets thinner with use. These pots are expensive, but food cooked in them tastes excellent.
The head chef combines Motuo's stone pots with Yunnan's traditional organic cuisine, stewing native chicken soup, adding precious ingredients like bamboo fungus (竹荪) and truffle (松露). You literally can't stop eating.
If you come during mushroom season, the butter-roasted matsutake mushrooms (黄油烤松茸) here are so delicious you can't stop. This restaurant has operated in the ancient town for years—ingredients and taste are first-rate.
Around the stone pot chicken is stone pot barbecue—you can grill pork belly, beef, chicken wings, and more. The waiters are very attentive, afraid we wouldn't know how to grill, so they serve the entire process.
You must try the coated tofu (包浆豆腐) and plum wine (梅子酒)—even someone like me who doesn't usually drink finds this sweet and sour taste delicious. Having a small cup, that slightly tipsy feeling is just right.
After eating and drinking, the ancient town is already lit up at dusk. When all the noise fades with the sunset's afterglow, the ancient town's unique temperament reveals itself. Walking under the bright moonlight, on ancient stone paths, with a gentle breeze—how wonderful.
Day 3: Baisha Ancient Town (白沙古镇) - The Village the World Forgot
At the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (玉龙雪山), Baisha Ancient Town (白沙古镇) is a village the world forgot. This rustic village has maintained its original appearance over the years—rough earthen walls and tiles, elders walking leisurely with contented expressions.
This is where the Lijiang Tusi (丽江土司) "Mu Family" regime originated. It's also an ancient town with Naxi (纳西) heritage, called the most original Naxi village. Because there aren't many tourists, many foreigners live here—some stay for good.
The ancient town has only one old commercial street. Souvenir shops mainly sell two things: tie-dye (扎染) and various imitation antiques. Most vendors are leisurely local elders. Because there are few tourists, it's rather quiet.
Walking along, I arrived at a tie-dye workshop. The open courtyard had various tie-dye cloths drying in the sun. I slipped inside to take a photo and chatted with the elders in the yard.
Don't doubt it—besides elders, the streets have the most dogs. It seems every household has a little dog. They're lazily squatting by the road, not at all afraid of strangers.
Without the commercial atmosphere of Lijiang Ancient Town, even more primitive than Shuhe—this is the rustic, quiet Baisha Ancient Town (白沙古镇). Find a courtyard with flowers, stay for a few days, and you'll definitely be reluctant to leave.
Jade Lake Village (玉湖村) - The Road to Snow Mountain
The road from Baisha Ancient Town to Jade Lake Village (玉湖村) was the biggest surprise of this trip. We were self-driving, and the road conditions were excellent all along—a Jeep has no problems at all.
What satisfies me most is its appearance—there are many colors to choose from. For someone like me who loves taking photos, driving anywhere becomes a scenic view. Additionally, its fuel consumption isn't high, power and chassis clearance are good, and the trunk space is sufficient. Perfect.
I heard from friends that the scenery along the road from Baisha to Jade Lake Village is nice, but I didn't expect they'd now set up various photography bases. There are two relatively large photography bases along the way. If you want photos, you can drive in directly—30 RMB (~$4.20 USD) for self-photography, or photographers are available for a fee.
The location of these photography bases is excellent—Snow Mountain is right behind. That's why many tourists come specifically from other places to take wedding photos. There are many scenes: boats, swings, bathtubs, and various small cars.
My favorite is this church, built in water with Snow Mountain behind it. On sunny days, the reflections are super beautiful. When I took photos, it was cloudy, but it had snowed the day before—Snow Mountain was incredibly beautiful.
Chiliu Mountain Residence (迟留山居) - Poetic Rural Life
Continuing to drive toward Snow Mountain, passing through primitive villages and poetic countryside, you arrive at Chiliu Mountain Residence (迟留山居). It hides in the west of Jade Lake Village, backed by the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (玉龙雪山) range, with a green stream flowing down the mountain.
There's natural snow mountain spring water, a forest oxygen bar, far from noise and restlessness. The forest garden behind the mountain also connects directly to Snow Mountain. In spare time, walking around, you'll find this place like a桃花源 (paradise)—tranquil and beautiful.
By understanding Naxi culture, the designer preserved and renovated the original Naxi architectural features. Using modern minimalist expression to expand the original spatial structure, presenting the cultural connotation: "Using minimalism to counter complexity; Using modernity to listen to history's echoes."
What I love most is the hotel's atrium—the reflection pool integrates seamlessly with the entire building. I think: listening to the wind, embracing the mountain, understanding water—this is the ideal Zen life for modern people.
A gentle rain fell, the air slightly cool. The flowers in the backyard bloomed, the cherries ripened—at this moment, I just want to quietly feel the moisture and quiet beauty of time.
Sitting in an ancient Zen tea room, tasting tea, viewing the mountain, nurturing the heart—a leisurely afternoon. A卷书 (book), a cup of tea, a window of green-stained mood—time passes so slowly.
The hotel has only twenty guest rooms. The atrium is Phase One with nine rooms. I stayed in Phase Two—the building's design style differs from before.
Different rooms offer different views of mountain and water depending on their angle. Here, you can forget the noisy traffic, forget the brilliant lights, forget arrogant laughter, forget restless hearts.
The guest room is spacious, without a TV—simple enough, pure enough, without deliberately catering to guest preferences. If you can't sleep, then read—the house has prepared books, fresh fruit, and mineral water.
Besides the large bed, there are two tatami mats. The full floor-to-ceiling window design looks out to distant mountains. The hotel owner wants to bring people's body and mind from the city to a more rustic, natural village in a return to origin—between looking up and down, there's only heaven and earth.
A peaceful time in the courtyard, old matters becoming distant—staying at Chiliu for two days, reluctant to leave. The cool breeze comes, closing eyes and凝思 (contemplating), letting thoughts return to the past, forgetting all worldly noise, returning to the starting point of the soul. This is truly poetic dwelling.
Dragon Girl Lake (龙女湖) - A Solo Dance at the Foot of Snow Mountain
Jade Lake Village (玉湖村) at 2,900 meters elevation is called "Ngv lv Kee" in Naxi language. "Ngv lv" is the Naxi name for Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (玉龙雪山), and "Kee" means "at the foot"—the closest village to Snow Mountain.
Two kilometers from Jade Lake Village is a plateau lake with a beautiful name: Dragon Girl Lake (龙女湖). It lies quietly at the foot of Snow Mountain year-round, exuding tranquility and peace.
There are almost no tourists here—a very niche spot—yet it has Snow Mountain, grassland, lake... This lake is called Snow Mountain's "tears" and the Naxi people's "white moonlight."
When we arrived, the weather wasn't great—it had just rained. I once thought we wouldn't see Snow Mountain. Thankfully, we weren't disappointed. The lake surface isn't very wide—you can take in the entire Snow Mountain from a distance. The mirror-like lake reflects the连绵 (continuous) mountains and clouds—breathtakingly beautiful.
There are local people's horse herds on the grassland—this is one of the few experiences available by the lake. The price isn't expensive. You can ride around the lake—quite worth experiencing.
Dragon Girl Lake is the best place to view Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. On a clear day, the lake clearly reflects Snow Mountain's outline. When I stood in front of Snow Mountain, I took out my ballet shoes that I'd been wanting to wear—though not a professional dancer, I wanted to leave the most beautiful silhouette at Snow Mountain's foot.
Dragon Girl Lake is like a jade embedded in green land—pure and flawless. Sitting by the lake, closing your eyes to feel the breeze passing by—I truly wish time would stop at this moment.
Practical Tips
1. Lijiang Overview
Lijiang (丽江) is located in northwest Yunnan Province (云南省), at the junction of the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau and the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. It was once a transit point for the Silk Road and Tea Horse Road, with a long history. Due to its unique cultural and natural scenery, it has gradually become a highly popular travel destination in China.
Many travelers think Lijiang Ancient Town is all there is to Lijiang—but that's not true. Beyond the ancient town, the Lijiang area is much larger than Lijiang Ancient Town. There are many places worth visiting: the towering Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (玉龙雪山), the mysterious Lugu Lake (泸沽湖), the quiet Shuhe Ancient Town (束河古镇), the ancient Baisha Ancient Town (白沙古镇), and the beautiful Lashi Sea (拉市海), among others.
Travel Time: Lijiang's scenery differs completely across seasons—whatever time you visit, you'll have different experiences and gains.
February: View rapeseed flowers at farms near Lashi Sea; visit Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (rent a cotton jacket)
April: Best time for Lijiang Ancient Town and Jade Dragon Snow Mountain—bring T-shirts, sweaters, jackets, sunscreen, and rain gear
May: View various mountain flowers in bloom in Lijiang—note sun protection
September-October: View harvest scenes in Lijiang's fields—bring fleece jackets
Recommended Stay: 3-5 days
Since attractions in the Lijiang area are quite dispersed, most tourists spend 3-5 days visiting Lijiang Ancient Town, Shuhe Ancient Town, Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, and other spots. If going to Lugu Lake, you'll need 5 days or more.
2. Transportation
We flew from Nanjing (南京) to Kunming (昆明), then rented a car and drove ourselves. The road from Kunming to Lijiang is in excellent condition. Car rental is convenient—rent at the airport, return at the airport. Car rental prices are cheap now, and you can choose your preferred model. If you like taking photos like me, consider a Jeep—they come in several colors, are photogenic.
3. Kunming Accommodation
The first stop was Kunming because my flight arrived late at night, so I needed to stay one night in Kunming. I chose the newly opened Feiman Hotel (扉缦酒店), located in Wangfujing·Dianchi Town (王府井·滇池小镇), very close to Kunming Railway Station.
As an urban leisure hotel, from the lobby you can feel a relaxed, comfortable living space. The mix of self-service and semi-assisted check-in makes staying more casual and comfortable.
The hotel staff were very enthusiastic, personally taking me to my room. Comparing environment and price, the hotel's current lowest room rate is just over 100 RMB (~$14 USD)—so cheap!
The room is my favorite style—fashionable, spacious, warm, and cozy. The latex pillows and mattress are very comfortable; quality amenities make you want to stay in bed once you're there.
If you need to buy things, the hotel has delivery robots that can bring items directly to your room. If you're hungry at night, there are shops outside—very convenient.
The hotel's restaurant not only has delicious buffet but also provides free tea and snacks. Even if you're busy, you should take time to enjoy afternoon tea in the sunshine with friends or loved ones—chatting, heart-to-heart talks—moments like these should be treasured.
There's also an outdoor garden dining platform outside the restaurant with excellent views, surrounded by greenery. Although it was just one night, the hotel's value for money and experience were both excellent—full marks.
4. Important Notes
Travel During Special Periods:
1. Travelers from non-key pandemic areas going to Yunnan need a QR code before boarding—fill out forms to board
2. Wear masks throughout boarding—flight attendants measure passengers' temperature on the plane
3. After arriving, fill out Yunnan Health Code again—can only leave after one-on-one verification
4. During your time in Yunnan, wear masks when entering public places—hotels also measure guests' temperature and disinfect rooms
5. Bring plenty of masks, disinfectant wipes, hand sanitizer—cooperate with temperature checks at public places
Tips When Visiting:
1. Sunglasses, hats, umbrellas, and sun-protective clothing are essential—high altitude ultraviolet rays are strong unless you don't mind getting tanned
2. Bring umbrellas and raincoats—weather is unpredictable, sometimes changing suddenly
3. If you have altitude sickness, take some Hong Jing Tian (红景天) in advance. If going to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, bring an oxygen bottle (sold locally) and warm clothes
4. Lijiang's temperature difference between morning and evening is noticeable—warm during the day, cold at night—bring a jacket to avoid catching a cold
5. The streets of Lijiang Ancient Town and Shuhe Ancient Town are all stone paths—for someone with a suitcase like me, it's extremely torturous. It's best not to bring wheeled luggage, or hire a local tricycle to deliver you
6. The local Naxi people have some customs—please pay attention: don't sit on thresholds indoors, don't spit into ponds randomly, don't step on the hearth stone, don't cross others' fire pits
7. Many shops in Lijiang accept Alipay and WeChat Pay—no need to worry if you don't have cash. ATMs in the ancient town are concentrated near Sifang Square. I only brought a small amount of cash—everything else was done via WeChat and Alipay