Trip Overview
When: October 30, 2020
Duration: 1 day
Travelers: Solo traveler
Budget: ~300 RMB (~$45 USD)
Day Trip to Shajiabang (沙家浜)
Departing from Shanghai (上海), a two-hour drive brought us to Shajiabang Scenic Area. The name immediately evokes the classic Beijing opera "Shajiabang"—a story that holds deep memories for generations born before the 1970s, featuring the legendary characters Ah Qing (阿庆嫂), Diao Deyi (刁德一), and Hu Chuankui (胡传魁).
Shajiabang seamlessly blends the natural reed marshes with traditional water-town architecture, all designed around the narrative of the Beijing opera. The vast reeds, expansive waterways, and lush greenery create a quintessential Jiangnan water-town ecological landscape. Combined with historical facts, the opera's legendary story, and the area's rich cultural heritage, the scenic spots are thoughtfully arranged—a 5A national tourist attraction featuring Revolutionary History Museum, National Defense Education Area, Red Stone Village, Reed Dwelling, Reed Wetland, and Reed Maze. Definitely worth a visit.
For the younger generation unfamiliar with the background: The modern Beijing opera "Shajiabang" artistically depicts the heroic resistance of the New Fourth Army and Jiangnan water-town people against Japanese invaders. In May 1939, Ye Fei (叶飞) led over 500 soldiers from the New Fourth Army's Sixth Regiment, marching east under the name "Jiangnan Anti-Japanese Volunteers" (江南抗日义勇军), arriving at the Yangtze River area near Changshu. After a period of fighting, the anti-Japanese forces grew stronger and the guerrilla base was consolidated. In September 1939, Ye Fei withdrew the main force to Zhenjiang for reorganization. Thirty-six seriously wounded soldiers, unable to retreat, were protected by underground party members and local people. Not only did they recover, but they also expanded the anti-Japanese forces. In 1960, the Shanghai People's沪剧团 created "The Reed Marsh Fire Seed" (芦荡火种) based on these true events. In spring 1963, famous writer Wang Zengqi (汪曾祺) and his team adapted the opera into Beijing opera, and under Chairman Mao's suggestion, renamed it "Shajiabang." From then on, vivid characters like Ah Qing and Guo Jianguang became famous throughout the country, deeply ingrained in people's hearts.
The area around Changshu, "Shajiabang," was merely a small water-town village 800 years ago. Historically known as Lutang Township, there's still a Lutang Village today. With provincial government approval, Lutang Township was renamed Shajiabang Town in March 1992.
First, the guide led us to a large stone tablet, with Ye Fei's (叶飞)—commander of the New Fourth Army's Sixth Regiment and late Vice Chairman of the National People's Congress Standing Committee—inscription on the facing wall.
Taking the sightseeing tram to the Old Street, we immediately heard performers on the opera stage presenting "The Battle of Wits" (智斗) from Shajiabang. The actors sang with precise pronunciation and rhythm, leaving the audience mesmerized, constantly taking photos and videos.
Walking across Dongjin Bridge (东进桥), this stone bridge was named to commemorate the New Fourth Army's eastward march. The bridge is 39 meters long, commemorating the Sixth Regiment's 1939 eastward advance; the bridge is 7.7 meters wide, to remember the "July 7" Incident.
Looking out at Red Stone Village (红石村) in the distance, the evening breeze rustles through the reeds like a Jiangnan girl pouring out endless emotions—exquisite and moving.
Free to wander the Hengjing Film and Television Base (the Old Street), a cool breeze from the river surface was refreshing and comfortable.
The Hengjing Old Street Film and Television Base preserves the old look of rural architecture, absorbing the essence of Jiangnan towns, recreating the style and cultural characteristics of Jiangnan countryside in the 1930s-40s. The 30-episode TV series "Shajiabang" was completed here, and other TV dramas like "San Yan Er Yu," "Golden Years," "King of Chinese Wine," and "Jasmine Flower" have also filmed here.
Hengjing Old Street has shops stacked side by side, small bridges over flowing water, and homes. Occasionally, beaming newlyweds stroll elegantly past, and in Liushun Hall (六顺堂), couples tie the knot for life.
The Spring Coming Tea House (春来茶馆) recreates the original form of small tea houses scattered throughout Shajiabang villages: "Setting up seven-star stove, brewing three rivers with copper pot; laying out eight immortals table, entertaining sixteen directions."
Next to the Spring Coming Tea House, Ah Qing's "Battle of Wits" with Diao Deyi—from blooming youth to weathered face.
The Diao Family Courtyard (刁家大院) has high door pillars, vermillion doors slightly ajar—what dramas of joy and sorrow played out here?
The specialty foods on Old Street are numerous, delicious, and reasonably priced. The streets are filled with Yangtze River crabs (阳澄湖大闸蟹) for you to enjoy.
There's also the "Wu Dalang" selling sesame cakes—he'll cooperatively pose when you take his picture.
Unlike other scenic areas, because of the model opera Beijing opera "Shajiabang," the stage here performs "Shajiabang" daily, as well as flower-carrying and wedding customs performances—the most obvious distinction from other attractions.
In Xichun Pavilion (熙春社), the Ah Qing and Diao Deyi who performed "Battle of Wits" on stage earlier teach you to sing "Battle of Wits" sentence by sentence,一遍遍地, and finally invite you to perform with them on stage—though none of the group members dared to go up.
Reed marshes are everywhere, and Jiangnan water-town style appears from time to time. Deep among the reeds, reed flowers sway gently, soft as Shajiabang, now with a wintry melancholy. Unfortunately, the lotus on the water pond are gone, lotus leaves withered—a beautiful incompleteness.
Shajiabang Scenic Area not only has beautiful natural reed marshes but also unique row boats on the water surface of the water-town countryside. Speaking of reed marshes and boat rowers, one cannot omit Jin Fagen (金发根). He was the first to contract hand-rowed boats in the Shajiabang Reed Marsh Scenic Area. Six years ago, the scenic area asked him to contract the hand-rowed boats, but he was unwilling. However, after just a week of rowing, he found business particularly good, sometimes earning over 200 yuan per day. "Singing folk songs while rowing, earning 20,000 yuan a year—I'm very happy," said the 60-year-old Jin Fagen cheerfully. Now, the hand-rowed boats in the scenic area have increased from 2 to 70, and each boat rower's annual income reaches 14,000 yuan. Another ironclad proof that tourism drives local people to prosperity.
Waiting for the boat at Spring Coming Dock (春来码头). There are two types of boats here: the row boats mentioned above and another mechanical type. We took the mechanical one, without hearing the boat lady hum local fishing songs, only the engine's sound. The tour boat twisted and turned in the river; we had long lost our sense of direction—no wonder the New Fourth Army wounded soldiers hid here, why the Japanese devils couldn't find the New Fourth Army in the reed marshes.
This is a row boat.
Captured while on the boat—the reed marshes.
That opera performance once made Shajiabang famous, but today's Shajiabang people have taken that opera off the stage, singing prosperity throughout the town—and they will continue to perform. One can't imagine what great plays Shajiabang will encore!