Trip Overview
When: December 2021 (Winter - fewer crowds but cold)
Duration: 6 days
Travelers: Group of friends
Budget: ~3,000 RMB (~$420 USD)
Transportation: Self-driving / rental car
About This Route
The Qinghai-Gansu Grand Loop (甘青大环线) is one of China's most spectacular road trips, connecting Qinghai Province and Gansu Province in a circular route covering over 2,000 kilometers. This journey takes you through diverse landscapes: snow-capped mountains, vast grasslands, deserts, salt lakes, and ancient Buddhist caves. Most of the route sits at elevations above 3,000 meters, so altitude sickness is a real concern—but the views are absolutely worth it.
Day 1: Xining to Chaka Salt Lake
Departing from Xining (西宁), the capital of Qinghai Province, we headed south on the Lajia Mountain Tourist Road (拉鸡山旅游公路) at an elevation of 3,820 meters. The air got noticeably thinner up here—definitely take it slow if you're not used to high altitudes.
First stop: Qinghai Lake (青海湖), China's largest salt lake, also known as the "Sea of the Lost. At 4,600 square kilometers, it feels more like an ocean than a lake—you can't see the other shore. We visited the 151 Base area (青海湖151), a popular spot with local tour groups.
Continuing on, we passed through Heima River (黑马河) and crossed the Rubber Mountain (橡皮山, 3,817m) before reaching our destination: Chaka Salt Lake (茶卡盐湖). Known as "China's Mirror," this salt flat reflects the sky so perfectly on calm days that visitors often can't tell where the horizon ends and the clouds begin.
Foreigner tip: Visit Chaka Salt Lake in the early morning or late afternoon for the best reflection shots. The wind picks up during midday, ruining that mirror effect. Bring sunglasses—the white salt is blindingly bright!
Day 2: Chaka to Dachaidan
Leaving Chaka, we drove to Delingha (德令哈), a small town that serves as a convenient rest stop. From there, we continued to Emerald Lake (翡翠湖), a stunning jade-green salt lake that's less crowded than Chaka. The colors change throughout the day depending on the mineral content and sunlight.
Our final destination: Dachaidan (大柴旦), a small town that serves as the gateway to the Qaidam Basin, one of China's most important mining areas.
Reality check: Facilities in Dachaidan are basic. Don't expect luxury—this is a working mining town. But the surrounding scenery is breathtaking, and it's a strategic stop for the next day's adventures.
Day 3: Dachaidan to Dunhuang
Today was the longest drive of the trip. We took the Liuge Expressway (柳格公路) through the Qaidam Basin, passing through the Qinghai Yadan Landform (青海雅丹)—a spectacular landscape of wind-carved sandstone formations that look like a frozen wave. Locals call this "Yadan Landform" because the formations resemble ancient ruined cities.
Crossing over Dajinshan Mountain (当金山) and passing through Aksay (阿克塞), we finally reached Dunhuang (敦煌), our desert destination for the night. We opted for desert camping (沙漠露营)—an experience I highly recommend if you're up for it. Sleeping under the stars in the Gobi Desert, with no light pollution for miles, is unforgettable.
Pro hack: Desert camping operators often include dinner, bonfire activities, and ATV rides in their packages. Negotiate hard during off-season—prices drop significantly.
Day 4: Dunhuang Highlights
No trip to Dunhuang is complete without visiting the Mogao Caves (莫高窟), one of China's Four Great Cave Temple Sites and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. These caves contain some of the finest examples of Buddhist art spanning 1,000 years.
CRITICAL WARNING: During peak season (May-October), tickets sell out a MONTH in advance. Book early through the official Mogao Caves website or app. Alternatively, the Digital Exhibition Center offers an excellent virtual experience if you can't get tickets.
After the caves, we headed to Ming沙山月牙泉 (Mingsha Mountain and Crescent Spring)—a towering sand dune with a natural spring at its base. You can hike up the dune for sunset, then slide down (yes, literally slide—it sounds weird but it's a blast). Or take a camel ride for the full desert experience.
Senior alert: The sand dune climb is steep and physically demanding. There's a wooden boardwalk that makes it easier, but still challenging. Camel rides are available for those who prefer not to hike.
Day 5: Dunhuang to Zhangye Danxia
Leaving Dunhuang, we passed through Guazhou (瓜州), famous for its melons (the name literally means "Melon Prefecture"). We made a quick stop at Jiayuguan (嘉峪关), the western terminus of the Great Wall of the Ming Dynasty.
Honest assessment: Jiayuguan is worth a brief stop if you're a history buff, but it's heavily restored and crowded. Skip it if you're short on time—it won't compare to the natural wonders ahead.
Our main destination: Zhangye Danxia Geological Park (张掖丹霞), also known as the "Rainbow Mountains." These vibrant red sandstone formations were formed over millions of years and look like an artist's palette spilled across the mountainside. The best time to visit is during sunset when the colors glow intensel.
Foreigner tip: The park has multiple viewing platforms connected by shuttle buses. The most famous is Colorful Hills (五彩丘陵), but arrive at least 2 hours before sunset to secure a good viewing spot.
Day 6: Return to Xining
Our final day took us through some of the most diverse scenery of the trip: Bianzhangkou (扁都口), Ebo Ancient City ruins (俄博古城遗址), Qilian Grassland (祁连草原), Gangshika Snow Peak (岗什卡雪峰, visible from distance), Menyuan Rapeseed Flowers (门源油菜花, best in July), and Daban Mountain (大坂山, 3,820m).
We ended at Heiquan Reservoir (黑泉水库), a scenic lake about 70km from Xining, before returning to the capital.
Reality check: This final stretch crosses multiple mountain passes with elevations over 3,800 meters. The road conditions are generally good, but winter driving (our case) requires caution due to ice and snow.
Where to Eat
Xining (西宁) Food Scene:
The city offers excellent Qinghai-Tibetan cuisine. Don't miss:
1. Shouzhua (手抓羊肉) - Hand-grabbed lamb, served steamed or boiled. Tender, flavorful, and eaten by hand—exactly as the name suggests.
2. Su NPC (甜醅) - Fermented barley or wheat, slightly alcoholic and refreshing.
3. Nangpi (酿皮) - Cold wheat or potato starch noodles with spicy sauce.
4. Zaxi (杂碎) - Offal soup, a popular breakfast dish locals swear by.
5. Goujiaoniao (狗浇尿) - Don't let the name scare you! It's actually a fried pancake with sesame, a local specialty.
Recommended Restaurants in Xining:
- Ma Yidao Kaorou Meishicheng (马一刀烤肉美食城) - Xinghai Road location
- Yixin Yang Rou Shouzhuaguan (益鑫羊肉手抓馆) - Huayuan North Street
- Shalihai (沙力海) - Chengzhong District
- Ga Muba (尕穆萨美食城)
Zaxi (Breakfast Soup) Spots:
- Beimenquan Zaxi (北门泉杂碎) - 100m east of Xining Hotel
- Quan'ertou Zaxi (泉儿头杂碎) - Dongguan Street / West Wusi Road
- Ma's Offal (马家羊杂碎) - Xinghai Road
Tibetan Food:
- Xueyu Zangcan (雪域藏餐)
- Linggesa'er Theme Cultural Tibetan Style Palace (岭·格萨尔主题文化藏族风情宫)
- Yangnuobubu Zangcan (央格诺布藏餐)
Pro hack: Most restaurants in Xining accept WeChat Pay and Alipay. Carry 100-200 RMB in cash for small vendors and tips.
Clothing & Gear
This route covers high-altitude terrain (3,000-4,000m) with significant temperature swings. December temperatures ranged from -15°C to 10°C depending on elevation and time of day.
Layering is essential:
- Base layer: Moisture-wicking thermal
- Mid layer: Fleece or down jacket
- Outer layer: Windproof/waterproof jacket
- Accessories: Warm hat, gloves, scarf, sunglasses
Footwear: Waterproof hiking boots with good ankle support. The terrain is uneven and can be muddy or icy.
Reality check: Even in summer, bring a warm jacket—it can snow any day above 3,000m. In winter (our choice), be prepared for sub-zero temperatures and icy roads.
Accommodation Guide
Major Cities (Xining, Dunhuang, Zhangye, Qilian): Good hotel options ranging from budget to mid-range. Book in advance during peak season.
Small Towns (Heima River, Dachaidan): Infrastructure is limited—these are small towns, not tourist hubs. Most hotels are simple 2-3 story establishments. Don't expect luxury.
Heima River (黑马河): Known as the best place to see Qinghai Lake's sunrise, but accommodation is basic. In peak season, rooms are nearly impossible to find—book 2-3 weeks ahead.
Dunhuang: Options range from hostels to luxury desert camps. Desert camping is a unique experience worth trying.
Pro hack: In shoulder season (April-May, September-October), you can often negotiate hotel prices down by 20-30%. Peak season prices are non-negotiable.
Altitude Sickness Guide
Average elevation: ~3,000 meters. Most visitors experience some degree of altitude adjustment.
Symptoms: Headache, shortness of breath, fatigue, difficulty sleeping. These usually appear within 24-48 hours of arriving at altitude.
Prevention:
- Arrive in Xining (2,260m) 1-2 days before starting the loop to acclimatize
- Avoid strenuous activity on Day 1
- Stay hydrated—drink 2-3 liters of water daily
- Avoid alcohol at high elevations
- Consider altitude medication (consult your doctor)
Treatment:
- Descend to lower elevation if symptoms worsen
- Rest and limit activity
- Over-the-counter pain relievers for headaches
- Oxygen canisters available at pharmacies in Xining and larger towns
Foreigner tip: Many travelers report that symptoms are worse due to anxiety and lack of sleep rather than actual altitude effects. Rest well, stay calm, and you'll likely adjust within 48 hours.
Driving & Transportation
Road Conditions: The entire loop uses well-maintained national highways and expressways. Road quality is generally excellent.
Driving Tips:
- Two or more drivers recommended—the route is long (6-8 hours driving some days) and monotonous
- Rest stops are available every 50-100km
- Gas stations are plentiful in cities but limited in remote areas—fill up whenever possible
- Winter driving requires caution: carry tire chains and check road conditions before departure
Navigation: Google Maps doesn't work well in China. Use Baidu Maps (百度地图) or Gaode Maps (高德地图)—both have English interfaces and offer real-time traffic updates.
Alternative: If you prefer not to drive, consider joining a local tour or hiring a driver. Many travel agencies in Xining offer private car + driver packages.
Money & Payments
Digital Payment: WeChat Pay and Alipay are accepted almost everywhere—hotels, restaurants, gas stations, and most shops. You'll need a Chinese bank account or a foreign card linked to Alipay (possible but tricky).
Cash: Carry 500-1,000 RMB for small vendors, tips, and emergencies. Some remote areas still prefer cash.
ATMs: Available in all major cities and most towns. Rural areas have limited ATM access—withdraw cash before leaving urban areas.