I spent four unforgettable days exploring Qinghai's highland wonders, where every turn revealed landscapes that took my breath away. From the mirror-like reflections of Chaka Salt Lake to the golden rapeseed fields surrounding Qinghai Lake, this journey across the Qinghai-Gansu loop felt like visiting ten different destinations in one trip. Walking on the "Mirror of the Sky," watching the sunrise over snow-capped mountains, and discovering hidden gems like the Emerald Lake and Devil City—these experiences showed me a side of China few international travelers ever see. If you're seeking raw natural beauty, rich Tibetan culture, and adventures that will fill your camera and your heart, Qinghai delivers beyond imagination.
Trip Overview
When: April 2021 (Spring)
Duration: 4 days
Travelers: With friends
Budget: ~1,800 RMB (~$250 USD)
Transportation: Private car with driver/guide
Route: Xining → Qinghai Lake → Chaka Salt Lake → Gangcha → Qilian → Menyuan → Xining
Day 1: Arrival in Xining and First Impressions
When I stepped off the plane at Xining Caojiabao Airport, the crisp highland air immediately hit me—we were already at 2,300 meters above sea level. Our local guide, "Big Brother" (大阿哥), had arranged everything perfectly. A friendly driver was waiting for us, and within an hour, we were settled into our hotel in downtown Xining.
That evening, we ventured out for our first taste of Qinghai cuisine. The lamb clay pot (羊肉坑锅) and grilled lamb chops were incredible—succulent, flavorful, and nothing like the lamb I'd tasted elsewhere. We also tried the famous Xining yogurt (老酸奶), which was surprisingly tart and creamy. A local tip: if you find it too sour, don't hesitate to add extra sugar!
🎯 Practical Info
Altitude: Xining sits at ~2,300m. Take it easy on your first day. Best Time to Visit: June-August for the best weather and rapeseed flowers. Currency: ¥1,800 (~$250 USD) per person covered accommodation, transport, and most meals. Pro Tip: Bring sunglasses and sunscreen—the high altitude means stronger UV rays.
Walking through Xining's streets that evening, I could feel the unique blend of Han, Tibetan, and Muslim cultures. The city felt calm and unhurried, a perfect introduction to the highland region.
Day 2: Qinghai Lake and the Journey to Chaka
We hit the road early, and as we drove southwest from Xining, the landscape transformed dramatically. Rolling grasslands gave way to vast blue waters—Qinghai Lake (青海湖, Qīnghǎi Hú), China's largest inland lake, stretched before us like an ocean in the sky.
The lake was more magnificent than I had imagined. Even in late April, the temperature was only around 15°C, but the sight of the deep blue water against the snow-capped mountains was worth every moment. Our guide told us that in July and August, the surrounding fields explode with golden rapeseed flowers—a spectacle I definitely need to return for.
Before reaching Qinghai Lake proper, we made a stop at Daotang River (倒淌河), near Riyue Mountain (日月山, Rìyuè Shān). This river flows uniquely from east to west, hence its name which means "flowing backward." Standing there, I learned about the historical Princess Wencheng who passed through this region on her journey to Tibet for a diplomatic marriage, bringing Han culture to the Tibetan plateau.
After Qinghai Lake, we climbed over Mount Rubber (橡皮山, Xiàngpí Shān), with its steep 30-40 degree slopes. At the pass, the view opened up to alpine meadows dotted with sheep and yaks grazing peacefully. The air was thin and fresh, and I found myself stopping every few minutes just to take photos.
By afternoon, we arrived at Chaka Salt Lake (茶卡盐湖, Chákǎ Yánhú)—the famous "Mirror of the Sky." As I stepped onto the white salt flats, I couldn't believe what I was seeing. The perfectly still water created mirror-like reflections of the sky and clouds, making it feel like I was walking on air. This 105-square-kilometer salt lake sits at 3,100 meters elevation and is one of China's most photographed destinations for good reason.
🎯 Practical Info - Chaka Salt Lake
Entry Fee: ¥60 (~$8 USD) Best Time: Early morning or late afternoon for best reflections What to Wear: Bright colors (red, yellow) contrast beautifully against the white salt Pro Tip: Bring waterproof shoe covers or rent them at the entrance
That evening, we stayed near Chaka, tired but exhilarated from the day's visual feast.
Day 3: Through the Qaidam Basin to Qilian
The third day took us through the vast Qaidam Basin (柴达木盆地, Cháidámù Péndì), one of China's three major inland basins. Covering 250,000 square kilometers and surrounded by the Kunlun, Qilian, and Altun mountain ranges, this basin feels like another planet. The name means "vast" or "wide" in Mongolian, and it couldn't be more appropriate.
Our first stop was Dongtai Jinaier Lake (东台吉乃尔湖), near Golmud. The lake's turquoise waters against the barren landscape created surreal colors that I had only seen in photoshopped images—except this was real. The mineral-rich waters create striking blue-green hues that seem almost artificial.
Nearby, we visited the Yardang Landform Park (雅丹地质公园), also known as the "Water Yardang." These wind-eroded rock formations rising from the water create an eerie, otherworldly landscape. Located about 340 km from the capital Delingha, this area is a key node on the Qinghai-Gansu loop route.
In the afternoon, we explored South Eight Immortals (南八仙, Nánbāxiān), named after eight female geological workers who lost their lives here. The endless rows of eroded clay mounds stretching to the horizon looked like a ghost city. When the wind blows through these formations, it creates haunting sounds—locals call it the "Devil City."
We also passed by the Yu Pass (玉门关, Yùménguān), an ancient fortress on the Silk Road's western frontier. Standing at this historic gateway where Chinese civilization once met the西域 (Western Regions), I could almost hear the echoes of merchants and travelers from two millennia ago.
The evening brought us to Qilian, a small county town nestled in the mountains. After three days of dramatic landscapes, the peaceful mountain setting was a welcome change.
Day 4: Danxia Landforms and Return
Our final day began with a visit to Zhuoer Mountain (卓尔山, Zhuó'ěr Shān) in Qilian County. From the summit, we could see the stunning red sandstone formations known as Danxia landforms, contrasting beautifully with the green valleys below and snow-capped peaks in the distance.
The Zhangye Danxia Landforms (张掖丹霞), which we viewed from a distance, are unique in China as they're the only place where Danxia formations coexist with colorful丘陵 (hilly terrain). These "Rainbow Mountains" truly deserve their name—the layered red, orange, yellow, and white stripes look like paintings.
🎯 Practical Info - Danxia Landforms
Entry Fee: ¥75 (~$10 USD) Best Time: Sunset for the most vibrant colors Photography: Bring a wide-angle lens to capture the vast scale Note: The area covers 536 square kilometers with two main scenic zones
We also glimpsed the magnificent Gangshka Snow Peak (岗什卡雪峰), standing at 5,254.5 meters above sea level. As the highest peak in the eastern Qilian Mountains, its perpetual snow cap glistened in the sunlight like a silver dragon.
Our last major stop was Menyuan (门源), famous for its vast rapeseed flower fields. Though we were visiting in April before the bloom, our guide showed us photos of July when millions of yellow flowers carpet the valley floor for dozens of kilometers. "The flowers here are more vibrant than in the south," he explained, "because of the intense high-altitude sunlight."
As we drove back to Xining through Daban Mountain (达坂山) and past Heiquan Reservoir (黑泉水库), I reflected on the incredible diversity we'd experienced in just four days. Alpine lakes, salt flats, desert basins, snow-capped peaks, ancient passes, and colorful mountains—Qinghai truly packs an unbelievable variety into one province.
Culinary Discoveries
Beyond the stunning landscapes, Qinghai's cuisine left a lasting impression. The high-altitude lamb is leaner and more flavorful than lowland varieties, and the yogurt—thicker and more sour than what most Westerners are used to—became my daily breakfast staple.
We also tried Tsampa (糌粑), a traditional Tibetan staple made from roasted barley flour mixed with butter tea. It's an acquired taste but provides incredible energy for high-altitude activities. The butter tea (酥油茶) itself was warming and rich—perfect for the cool evenings.
In the Qilian area, we discovered highland barley wine, a mild alcoholic beverage that locals drink to combat the cold. And everywhere we went, the hand-pulled noodles (拉面) were freshly made, chewy, and served in rich broth—comfort food at its finest.
Quick Reference Guide
Must-See Attractions
Qinghai Lake – China's largest inland lake, best visited July-August Chaka Salt Lake – The "Mirror of the Sky," prepare for stunning photos Zhangye Danxia – Rainbow mountains that defy belief Menyuan Rapeseed Fields – Spectacular yellow blooms in July Yardang Landform – Otherworldly wind-eroded formations
Practical Tips
Altitude Sickness: Take it easy the first day; stay hydrated Weather: Even in summer, nights are cool. Bring layers. Sun Protection: Essential at high altitude Photography: Bring extra batteries and memory cards Cash: Some rural areas don't accept cards or mobile payments Guide: Highly recommended—a good local guide like "Big Brother" makes all the difference
Sample Itinerary
D1: Arrive Xining, local food exploration
D2: Xining → Qinghai Lake → Chaka Salt Lake
D3: Chaka → Gangcha → Dongsheng Pass → Qilian
D4: Qilian → Zhuoer Mountain → Daban Mountain → Menyuan → Heiquan Reservoir → Xining
💡 Final Thoughts
Qinghai exceeded every expectation I had. This isn't just another Chinese province—it's a vast, wild landscape that feels more like Tibet than the urban China most travelers know. With its diverse ethnic cultures, pristine natural beauty, and the genuine hospitality of people like our guide Big Brother, Qinghai offers an authentic highland experience that will stay with you forever.
If you're looking for China's most photogenic landscapes away from the tourist crowds, the Qinghai-Gansu loop is the answer. Just be prepared: once you see these views, you'll be planning your return trip before you even leave.