Trip Overview
When: March 2021 (spring, mild weather)
Duration: 1 day
Travelers: Group of friends
Transportation: Self-driving
Budget: ~200 RMB (~$28 USD) including tickets and food
Essential Foreigner Info
Getting There: Niushou Mountain (牛首山) is located in Nanjing's Jiangning District, about 30 minutes by car from downtown Nanjing. Self-driving is convenient with a large parking lot at the East Gate.
Money Matters: Ticket is 98 RMB (~$14 USD). Most vendors accept mobile payment (Alipay/WeChat Pay), but bring some cash just in case.
Language: English is limited at the site. Download an offline map or have a Chinese speaker help with navigation.
Timing: Arrive early (around 9 AM) to avoid tour groups. The mountain is steep—wear comfortable shoes!
Day 1: Exploring Niushou Mountain
We started our journey from the East Gate (东门) of Niushou Mountain Scenic Area. The entrance fee of 98 RMB gets you access to the entire park including all major attractions.
Spring flowers were in full bloom along the path—delicate and beautiful. At one turn, we found a Tang-dtyle pavilion that serves as the tourist bus stop.
We walked upward at a leisurely pace, chatting and enjoying the fresh air. The conversation made the walk effortless and pleasant.
Pro tip: After a few turns, the Nine-Tiered Pagoda (佛顶塔) suddenly comes into view. Standing atop the mountain, this 45-meter tower is one of the iconic landmarks of the Niushou Mountain Buddhist Complex—and visible from many parts of Jiangning District.
The two striking trees by the roadside caught my attention. Unique, pristine, with an air of proud solitude. (Reality check: the photo doesn't quite capture what I saw in person—the feeling was more dramatic than the image suggests.)
Halfway up the mountain, we encountered the "Chaotian Que朝天" (阙) archway—a pavilion-style structure built into the mountainside. It's a perfect spot for tourists to rest and catch their breath before continuing.
Foreigner tip: We spotted a sign pointing to "Ming Dynasty Cliff Carvings" (明代摩崖石刻) and decided to deviate from the main path to explore this hidden gem.
This mountain trail is likely the original登山道 from before Niushou Mountain was fully developed—it's steep and rugged. Such an authentic path makes the journey genuinely exciting!
Near the summit, we found the Ming Dynasty Cliff Carvings on the north崖 of Doushuai Rock (兜率岩) on the mountain's east peak. The carvings cover a relatively small area—a total of 5 Buddhist niches carved into the cliff (3 on the north wall, 2 on the east wall), containing 133 statues of various sizes. The central niche houses a statue of Shakyamuni Buddha.
Four Sanskrit inscriptions are carved on either side of the Buddhist niches.
A short walk from the carvings brings us to the Niutou Chan Cultural Garden (牛头禅文化园).
Niutou Chan Cultural Garden (牛头禅文化园): Built on the site of Hongjue Temple (弘觉寺), this garden features pavilions surrounding a green lawn. On one side of the lawn, against the mountain, stands the Hongjue Temple Pagoda (弘觉寺塔).
The garden's centerpiece is Hongjue Temple Pagoda (弘觉寺塔)—the oldest existing brick pagoda in Nanjing that mimics wooden structure. Built in 503 AD during the Liang Dynasty (originally named Tianjian 2), it was rebuilt during the Ming Dynasty. The temple is gone but the pagoda remains. (Fun fact: during the Qing Dynasty, it was renamed to avoid the same characters as Emperor Qianlong's name—Hongjiue became "Hongjue Temple.")
This 45-meter pagoda is a typical Jiangnan-style wooden brick pagoda—octagonal on the outside, square inside, with seven tiers and eight sides. Currently under protection, we can only admire it from below.
The courtyard follows traditional Jiangnan garden style with wooden structures, showcasing ancient Tang Dynasty architectural elegance.
This ancient pagoda stands silently through generations, witnessing countless lives passing below.
Reality check: From the long corridor, we could see the Nine-Tiered Pagoda (佛顶塔) and the Buddha Crown Palace (佛顶宫) in the distance, crowded with visitors. But here in the Niutou Chan Cultural Garden, the atmosphere is peaceful and contemplative—a true sense of "quiet" and "simplicity." We chose to rest here, escaping the crowds and enjoying the tranquility. We shared our snacks and gave our hiking companion a break from carrying supplies.
Leaving the Niutou Chan Cultural Garden, we headed to the grand plaza below to gaze up at the ancient pagoda.
And then... the main event of Niushou Mountain awaited...