I spent three unforgettable days at The Lalu Nanjing (南京涵碧楼, Nánjīng Hánbì Lóu), a seven-star sanctuary where the poetry of China's Six Dynasties (六朝, Liù Cháo) comes alive in every detail. From the moment I drove through the bamboo forest path and saw those imperial hitching posts, I knew this wouldn't be an ordinary hotel stay. Sipping Taiwanese winter melon tea while gazing at 180-degree river views, experiencing ancient tea ceremonies, listening to the ethereal music of ceramic bowls, and watching white geese wander beside pavilions inspired by Wang Xizhi—I discovered that luxury here isn't about ostentation, but about connecting with centuries of Chinese culture. If you believe hotels should be destinations in themselves, The Lalu offers a masterclass in transforming accommodation into art.
Trip Overview
When: Spring (April)
Duration: 3 days
Travelers: Solo
Budget: ~3,000 RMB (~$420 USD)
Location: Jiajiang riverside, Nanjing
Day 1: Arrival and First Impressions
When I first heard about The Lalu (涵碧楼), I was already familiar with its legendary reputation from Taiwan. This Nanjing property marks the brand's second location in mainland China, and I arrived with high expectations that, remarkably, were exceeded within minutes.
Nanjing has always struck me as a city wrapped in poetry and history. From Wuyi Lane (乌衣巷, Wūyī Xiàng) to the Qinhuai River (秦淮河, Qínhuái Hé), from Mochou Lake (莫愁湖, Mòchóu Hú)—virtually every corner has inspired centuries of Chinese verse. The Lalu embraces this legacy completely.
True to its heritage, the hotel sits beside the water—every room commands 180-degree unobstructed river views. Yet what truly sets it apart is how it weaves Nanjing's identity as the ancient capital of six dynasties into its very bones.
The transformation begins the moment your vehicle enters the bamboo-lined drive. The urban chaos of Nanjing melts away, replaced by the hush of an imperial garden. Imperial hitching posts stand guard beside the entrance—an immediate nod to the city's royal past. Traditional palace lanterns cast warm light on polished surfaces. The grand lobby unfolds with understated elegance.
At check-in, they served me Taiwanese winter melon tea—a sweet, amber-colored welcome drink that somehow tasted perfectly suited to Nanjing's own sweet tooth. It was my first taste of the hotel's signature blend of Taiwanese hospitality with local culture.
The lobby design reveals itself in layers—from the Moonlight Treasure Box to the Glass Treasure Box, each space unfolds like chapters in a book. Celadon ceramics complement massive stone backdrops. Hand-woven Yunjin brocade (云锦, Yúnjǐn)—the imperial silk once reserved for emperors—appears as landscape screens. But what stopped me in my tracks was the plum tree sculpture: thousands of brass leaves, each one hand-attached, glittering like frozen fire.
Every detail speaks of painstaking craftsmanship. I found myself moving slowly, deliberately, allowing each space to reveal its secrets. This isn't luxury that shouts—it's luxury that whispers, inviting you to lean in closer.
Day 2: Exploring the Grounds and Cultural Immersion
I woke early, drawn by the promise of discovering every corner. The Lalu rewards curious wanderers—nearly every space frames its own perfect scene. In the main hall, the air carries the scent of old books mixed with the recorded sounds of insects and birdsong—ancient music that transports you centuries back.
Outside, I discovered the "winding stream" pavilion—a contemporary interpretation of the ancient Chinese drinking game where poets floated wine cups downstream. But the real scene-stealers were the white geese, wandering the emerald lawns just as they did in Wang Xizhi's (王羲之, Wáng Xīzhī) legendary garden over 1,600 years ago. The famous calligrapher loved these birds so much that their graceful neck movements inspired his brush strokes. Watching them glide across the water, I understood his obsession.
I'd never associated Nanjing with "resort vacation" until experiencing The Lalu. The property brilliantly separates public and private spaces. You can entertain friends in the expansive living room with its floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the river. Then retreat to your sanctuary, soaking in the tub while watching boats drift past on the Yangtze's tributary, before sinking into a bed positioned to capture that same river view.
Beyond the expected five-star amenities, it's the details that elevate The Lalu beyond ordinary luxury. The towel rack with built-in heating—perfect for those crisp spring mornings. The bathtub that fills astonishingly fast (trust me, this matters). The writing desk that makes you want to pen poetry. The compact but charming balcony. The bedside control panel with its ingenious gradual dimming feature that slowly extinguishes lights as you drift toward sleep.
The all-wood speakers play custom-composed resort music created in collaboration with a Balinese orchestra. Within minutes, I felt my urban stress dissolving into something approaching tranquility.
Then came the evening turn-down service—an art form I rarely encounter. They delivered local delicacies, left ice for drinks, and lit candles that flickered against the darkening river. Sipping wine by candlelight with that view? Pure magic.
🎯 Room Tips
Best Views: Request a high floor for unobstructed river panoramas Room Size: Even entry-level rooms are spacious (~60 sqm) Unique Feature: All rooms face the river—no bad views Turn-down Service: Includes local snacks and candle lighting
Day 3: Cultural Classes and Culinary Discoveries
Sitting on the relatively secluded Jiajiang riverside means The Lalu isn't conveniently located near public transportation, and taxis depend on timing and luck. But that seclusion becomes the point—you're meant to sink into the experience without urban distractions pulling at your attention.
All guests can reserve complimentary tea ceremony classes. During my visit, they were also offering free incense ceremonies for early bookers. These represent intangible cultural heritage—traditions slowly fading from modern Chinese life. Under the instructor's patient guidance, I found myself mesmerized by rituals I'd never properly appreciated before.
But my absolute favorite was the "celadon bowl music" (青瓷瓯乐, Qīngcí Ōu Yùe), a tradition dating back to the Eastern Han Dynasty. Watching women in Hanfu (汉服, traditional Chinese clothing) play "Ode to Joy" on ceramic bowls was surreal—the clear, resonant tones lingering in the air long after each note. When I tried it myself, I discovered the genuine joy of "playing dishes." These porcelain instruments produce crystalline sounds that seem to hang suspended in space. I left already planning my return to hear the full ensemble of bowls, bells, and chimes.
I genuinely fell in love with the sound of those ceramic vessels!
Culinary Experiences
No luxury hotel experience is complete without exceptional dining, and The Lalu delivers on multiple fronts.
Shui Sha Lian Chinese Restaurant (水沙涟)
The name itself evokes poetry—Shui Sha Lian (水沙涟, Shuǐ Shā Lián) offers refined Chinese cuisine with strong Nanjing characteristics. The presentations approach art, and the flavors match the visual elegance. Most seating is in private dining rooms—a thoughtful nod to Chinese dining customs that makes this ideal for business entertainment or family celebrations.
Hojia9 All-Day Dining
The name derives from the Taiwanese Hokkien phrase "hōo tsia pa" (好吃)—simply meaning "delicious." But this is no casual eatery. The restaurant serves sophisticated international buffet cuisine with global influences.
During my visit, the buffet service remained suspended (pandemic-related), but the set menus offered remarkable variety. Both Western dishes and desserts achieved that rare combination of Instagram-worthy presentation and genuinely satisfying flavor. Rumor has it the executive chef is quite easy on the eyes too!
The Legendary Afternoon Tea
The Lalu's afternoon tea has become a genuine social media phenomenon—and deservedly so. At just 298 RMB (~$42 USD) for two to three people, the "Sunshine Lawn" afternoon tea represents exceptional value by luxury hotel standards.
I chose to take mine on the manicured lawn, creating the perfect picnic aesthetic without any of the work. The tiered presentation of pastries and savories looked almost too beautiful to eat—almost. Unlike many high-end hotel teas where appearance exceeds substance, these treats delivered genuine culinary craftsmanship. The balance of flavors, textures, and visual presentation placed this among the finest afternoon teas I've experienced anywhere in China.
🍽️ Dining Guide
Shui Sha Lian: Chinese fine dining, private rooms available, local Nanjing specialties Hojia9: International buffet (check current availability), set menus ~200-400 RMB/person Afternoon Tea: 298 RMB for 2-3 people, book lawn seating in advance Room Service: Available 24 hours with curated menu
Exploring the Surroundings
The hotel sits adjacent to Wan Jing Yuan (万景园), a landscaped riverside greenway perfect for post-meal walks or cycling. I spent a contemplative afternoon strolling the path, watching the river flow by.
The scenery shifts constantly—one moment suggesting the gardens of France, the next evoking Italian landscapes. Beyond natural beauty, I encountered thoughtful art installations dotting the landscape. I found myself wandering from "France" to "Italy" in the space of an hour, each turn revealing new visual surprises.
Final Reflections
Only after experiencing it can I truly understand the meaning behind "you must stay at The Lalu at least once in your lifetime."
For me, The Lalu transcended the concept of "hotel." It became a portal into Nanjing's deep history, a living classroom for traditional culture, and a masterclass in design that honors nature and humanity simultaneously. The ceramic bowl music still echoes in my memory. The sight of white geese against emerald lawns remains vivid. The taste of that winter melon tea lingers.
This wasn't merely accommodation—it was transformation. In three days, I didn't just rest my body; I fed my curiosity, my aesthetic sense, and my understanding of what happens when heritage meets hospitality.
If you come to Nanjing and seek more than a place to sleep, The Lalu offers something increasingly rare: genuine immersion in place, history, and art. Book the river view. Stay longer than planned. Let the bamboo path work its magic.
You won't regret it.
Quick Reference Guide
📍 Location & Access
Address: No. 9 Binjiang Avenue, Jianye District, Nanjing (南京市建邺区滨江大道9号) Location: Jiajiang riverside, near Wan Jing Yuan park Transportation: No nearby subway; taxi recommended (~30 min from city center) Best for: Travelers seeking resort-style stays rather than city exploration
💰 Budget Planning
Room Rates: From ~1,200 RMB/night (~$170 USD) Afternoon Tea: 298 RMB for 2-3 people (~$42 USD) Chinese Restaurant: ~300-500 RMB/person (~$45-70 USD) International Restaurant: ~200-400 RMB/person (~$30-55 USD)
🎯 Best For
Culture enthusiasts wanting immersive experiences Couples seeking romantic getaways Design and architecture aficionados Travelers needing urban escape without leaving the city Special occasions and celebrations
💡 Pro Tips
Book tea ceremony and cultural classes in advance through concierge Request high-floor rooms for best river views Allow extra time for the riverside park exploration Sunset views from rooms are spectacular—plan to be there Combine with visits to nearby Nanjing attractions (plan taxi rides accordingly)