I spent four unforgettable days exploring Nanjing, one of China's most historically significant cities and the capital of six ancient dynasties. As part of my epic 10,000-kilometer road trip across six provinces, I discovered a city where the mighty Yangtze River meets imperial heritage. From watching the sunset over Yuejiang Tower to walking the solemn grounds of the Nanjing Massacre Memorial Hall, from savoring street food at the 1912 District to marveling at the architectural grandeur of Dr. Sun Yat-sen's Mausoleum—this journey revealed why Nanjing has captivated emperors, revolutionaries, and travelers for over 2,500 years. If you're seeking a destination that perfectly blends ancient history with modern vitality, Nanjing delivers an experience that will stay with you long after you've crossed the Yangtze River Bridge.
Trip Overview
When: June 2021 (Summer)
Duration: 4 days
Travelers: Couple
Budget: ~800 RMB (~$120 USD) per person (including gas, tolls, accommodation, food, and entrance fees)
Transportation: Self-drive from Chuzhou, Anhui Province (40 km, 1 hour)
Trip Context: 34th stop of a 40-day, 10,200 km road trip through Hunan, Guizhou, Guangxi, Hubei, Anhui, and Jiangsu provinces
Day 1: First Impressions and Modern Nanjing
When I first arrived in Nanjing at 8:00 AM after a smooth one-hour drive from Chuzhou, I immediately understood why Dr. Sun Yat-sen praised this city so highly. The morning mist was lifting off the Yangtze River as I drove into the city, revealing a skyline where ancient pagodas coexist with modern skyscrapers. I couldn't wait to start exploring.
My first stop was the Nanjing 1912 District (南京1912街区 Nánjīng 1912 Jiēqū), a vibrant entertainment and dining area built to commemorate the founding of the Republic of China in 1912. Walking through its streets felt like stepping back in time—the Republican-era architecture has been beautifully preserved, with brick buildings and traditional courtyards now housing trendy restaurants, cafes, and boutiques. I was surprised by how seamlessly the district blends historical nostalgia with contemporary lifestyle. It reminded me of Shanghai's Xintiandi, yet with a distinctly Nanjing character.
Practical Info: 1912 District
Entry Fee: Free to walk around Best Time: Evening for nightlife, daytime for photos Tip: Great place for dinner and evening strolls
For lunch, I headed to Shiziqiao Food Street (狮子桥 Shīziqiáo), located near Gulou District. This 330-meter pedestrian street is a paradise for food lovers, and I found myself overwhelmed by the choices. The aroma of local specialties filled the air—duck blood vermicelli soup, sesame pancakes, and countless other Nanjing delicacies. I couldn't resist trying the famous Nanjing salted duck (盐水鸭 Yánshuǐyā), which has been a local favorite since the Ming Dynasty.
In the afternoon, I visited the Nanjing Olympic Sports Center (南京奥林匹克体育中心 Nánjīng Àolínpǐkè Tǐyù Zhōngxīn) in the Hexi New District. As an award-winning architectural marvel that hosted the 2014 Youth Olympic Games, the complex was impressive in scale and design. Walking around the exterior, I admired the modern aesthetic of what locals call "the fifth generation of sports architecture." The best part? It's completely free to explore the exterior grounds and take photos.
Practical Info: Olympic Sports Center
Entry Fee: Free (exterior), varies for events Location: Jianye District, Hexi New Town Tip: Great for architecture photography
Day 2: The Yangtze River and Imperial Heritage
The morning of Day 2 began with one of Nanjing's most iconic landmarks—Yuejiang Tower (阅江楼 Yuèjiāng Lóu). Perched atop Lion Mountain overlooking the Yangtze River, this "First Tower of Jiangnan" offers breathtaking panoramic views. As I climbed to the top, the morning breeze carried the sounds of the river below. Standing there, watching cargo ships navigate the Yangtze, I understood why ancient emperors chose this spot to "read the river" (阅江 Yuèjiāng).
Practical Info: Yuejiang Tower
Entry Fee: 40 RMB (~$6 USD), book on Ctrip for 30 RMB Parking: 10 RMB Best Time: Early morning for river views Must-See: The panoramic view from the top floor
Next, I drove to the Nanjing Yangtze River Bridge Park (南京长江大桥公园 Nánjīng Chángjiāng Dàqiáo Gōngyuán). This isn't just any bridge—it's a symbol of Chinese engineering pride. Completed in 1968, it was the first double-deck road-rail bridge designed and built entirely by Chinese engineers. Walking beneath its massive steel arches, I felt the weight of history. The park offers excellent photo opportunities of this architectural marvel.
The afternoon took me to several beautiful parks that showcase Nanjing's nickname as the "City of Gardens." First was Bai Luzhou Park (白鹭洲公园 Báilùzhōu Gōngyuán), a serene classical garden where I watched locals practice tai chi by the water. Then I visited Mochou Lake Park (莫愁湖 Mòchóu Hú), named after a legendary woman from the Liang Dynasty whose sorrowful story adds poetic depth to the scenic lake.
I ended Day 2 at Xuanwu Lake Park (玄武湖 Xuánwǔ Hú), one of China's largest imperial lakes, and walked along sections of the Ming Dynasty City Wall (南京城墙 Nánjīng Chéngqiáng). Standing on walls that have witnessed over 600 years of history, I watched the sun set over the lake, painting the sky in brilliant oranges and pinks. It was a perfect end to a day that perfectly captured Nanjing's imperial grandeur.
Practical Info: City Wall
Entry Fee: Free to walk on most sections Length: 35 km total, walk as much as you like Tip: Best views at Xuanwu Lake section
Day 3: Temples, Tombs, and Traditional Culture
Day 3 began with a journey to Gaochun Old Street (高淳老街 Gāochún Lǎojiē), located about an hour south of the city center. This ancient commercial street has preserved its Ming and Qing Dynasty architecture remarkably well. Walking along the cobblestone streets past traditional wooden storefronts, I felt transported to another era. Local vendors sold traditional handicrafts, and I couldn't resist buying some handmade bamboo products as souvenirs.
Back in the city, I visited the Jiming Temple (鸡鸣寺 Jīmíng Sì), one of Nanjing's oldest and most significant Buddhist temples. Founded in 300 AD, the temple complex clings to the hillside with its distinctive orange-tiled pagoda visible from across the city. As I burned incense and listened to the chanting of monks, I found a moment of peace amid the bustling city below. The temple's vegetarian restaurant serves excellent mock meat dishes—a perfect lunch spot.
Practical Info: Jiming Temple
Entry Fee: 10 RMB (~$1.50 USD) Opening Hours: 7:00 AM - 5:30 PM Don't Miss: Vegetarian restaurant Best View: Top of the pagoda
The afternoon was dedicated to exploring the Ming Xiaoling Mausoleum (明孝陵 Míng Xiàolíng), the tomb of the Ming Dynasty's founding emperor, Zhu Yuanzhang. Walking up the Sacred Way lined with stone statues of animals and officials, I was struck by the grandeur of imperial power. The Spirit Way leads to a magnificent complex of halls and pavilions set amid ancient forests. It's a UNESCO World Heritage site for good reason.
As evening approached, I found myself at the Fuzimiao Confucius Temple area (夫子庙 Fūzǐmiào) along the Qinhuai River (秦淮河 Qínhuái Hé). This is Nanjing's most famous tourist district, and for good reason—the riverfront comes alive at night with traditional lanterns, boat rides, and street food. I took a boat ride along the river, watching the reflections of ancient buildings dance on the water. It felt like traveling back to the Ming Dynasty when this was China's cultural capital.
Practical Info: Fuzimiao Area
Entry Fee: Free to walk around, temple entry varies Best Time: Evening for lanterns and atmosphere Boat Ride: ~80 RMB (~$12 USD) Tip: Try the street food but watch prices
Day 4: History, Heroes, and Reflection
The final day of my Nanjing journey was dedicated to understanding the city's complex modern history. I started at the Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum (中山陵 Zhōngshān Líng) on Purple Mountain. Climbing the 392 steps to the memorial hall, I felt a sense of reverence for the father of modern China. The blue-tiled roof and white walls are architecturally stunning, but it's the view from the top—overlooking the city Dr. Sun envisioned—that truly takes your breath away.
Practical Info: Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum
Entry Fee: Free (but requires reservation) Opening Hours: 8:30 AM - 5:00 PM Steps: 392 (take your time!) Tip: Book online in advance
Nearby, I visited the Meiling Palace (美龄宫 Měilíng Gōng), the former residence of Chiang Kai-shek and Soong Mei-ling. This elegant art deco mansion surrounded by a necklace of trees is one of Nanjing's most photographed sites. Walking through the preserved rooms, I gained insight into the lives of China's 20th-century power couple.
The afternoon was somber but essential. I visited the Memorial Hall for the Victims of the Nanjing Massacre (侵华日军南京大屠杀遇难同胞纪念馆 Qīnhuá Rìjūn Nánjīng Dàtúshā Yùnàn Tóngbāo Jìniànguǎn). This memorial is hauntingly powerful—the exhibits, survivor testimonies, and mass burial sites tell the story of the 1937 atrocities with unflinching honesty. It's not an easy visit, but it's necessary to understand Nanjing's resilience and the importance of peace. I left with a heavy heart but a deeper appreciation for the city's strength.
My final stop was the Presidential Palace (总统府 Zǒngtǒngfǔ), which served as the office for Sun Yat-sen and later Chiang Kai-shek. The compound blends traditional Chinese gardens with Western-style buildings, reflecting the complex cultural exchanges of the early Republic period. As I walked through the gates one last time, I realized how much history I had experienced in just four days.
Culinary Discoveries
Nanjing's cuisine is a highlight of any visit. During my four days, I sampled countless local specialties:
Nanjing Salted Duck (盐水鸭 Yánshuǐyā): The city's signature dish, with a history dating back to the Ming Dynasty. The delicate flavor comes from a special brining process. Duck Blood Vermicelli Soup (鸭血粉丝汤 Yāxiě Fěnsī Tāng): A hearty breakfast favorite made with duck blood, intestines, and vermicelli noodles. Crab Shell Yellow Pastries (蟹壳黄 Xièkéhuáng): Flaky sesame pastries with sweet or savory fillings, named for their golden crab-shell color.
Where to Eat
Shiziqiao Food Street: Best for variety and atmosphere 1912 District: Upscale dining in historic setting Fuzimiao Area: Street food and snacks Budget: ~100-150 RMB (~$15-20 USD) per day for two people
Quick Reference Guide
Getting There
Nanjing is easily accessible by high-speed train from Shanghai (1.5 hours), Beijing (4 hours), or Hangzhou (1 hour). If driving, the city has excellent highway connections.
Where to Stay
I stayed at a Home Inn (如家 Rújiā) near the city center—clean, comfortable rooms with breakfast for about 120 RMB (~$18 USD) per night. Budget travelers can find hostels for 80-100 RMB, while luxury hotels start at 500 RMB.
Getting Around
Nanjing has an excellent metro system, but I found driving convenient for reaching suburban attractions. Parking is generally 10 RMB at tourist sites. Taxis and Didi (China's Uber) are affordable options.
Best Time to Visit
Spring (March-May) and autumn (September-November) offer the most pleasant weather. Summer can be hot and humid, while winter is chilly but has fewer tourists.
Total Costs (4 days for 2 people)
Gas & Tolls: ~400 RMB (~$60 USD) Accommodation: ~480 RMB (~$70 USD) Food: ~600 RMB (~$90 USD) Entrance Fees: ~300 RMB (~$45 USD) Total per person: ~800 RMB (~$120 USD)
Final Thoughts
As I drove away from Nanjing on the morning of June 13th, crossing the Yangtze River Bridge one last time, I felt a profound sense of gratitude. This city had given me four days of extraordinary experiences—imperial grandeur, revolutionary history, spiritual reflection, and culinary delights. Nanjing is not just a destination; it's a journey through China's soul.
For international travelers seeking an authentic Chinese experience beyond the usual tourist circuits of Beijing and Shanghai, Nanjing offers the perfect balance. It's accessible enough for first-time visitors yet rich enough to satisfy seasoned China hands. The city's tragic history has given way to vibrant resilience, and walking its streets, you feel part of a story that spans millennia.
If my journey taught me anything, it's this: travel doesn't always need a reason. Sometimes, you go simply because the destination calls to you. Nanjing called, and I'm forever grateful I answered.
Safe travels, and may your own Nanjing adventure be as unforgettable as mine.