I spent six magical days at Shanshui Renjia, a cozy homestay tucked away in Beijing's Labagoumen Primeval Forest, and discovered a fairytale world of autumn colors I never knew existed so close to the city. Waking up to mountain views, sipping tea on the terrace while golden leaves danced in the wind, foraging for wild mushrooms in the forest, and falling asleep to the sound of the Tang River—this journey revealed a side of Beijing that most tourists never see. If you're seeking an authentic countryside retreat with pristine nature and genuine local hospitality, this hidden gem delivers unforgettable experiences.
Trip Overview
When: Late September (Peak Autumn Season)
Duration: 6 days
Travelers: With friends
Budget: ~150 RMB (~$21 USD) per person
Location: Shanshui Renjia Homestay, No. 79, Duijiaogoumen Village, Labagoumen Manchu Township, Huairou District, Beijing
Transportation: Private car or taxi from downtown Beijing (~2-3 hours)
Day 1: Arrival in a Colorful Wonderland
When I first arrived at Labagoumen, I couldn't believe my eyes. The mountains were ablaze with autumn colors—reds, oranges, golds, and lingering greens creating a canvas that looked almost too perfect to be real. Standing before Shanshui Renjia, the independent villa surrounded by this natural spectacle, I felt like I had stepped into a painting.
The homestay sits at No. 79, Duijiaogoumen Village, in the heart of Labagoumen Manchu Township. What struck me immediately was how close it was to major attractions—most scenic spots were just a 10 to 30-minute drive away, making it the perfect base for exploring the region.
The location couldn't be better. The courtyard faces south toward the mountains, with the Tang River flowing just to the west. It sits right along the Beijing-Mohe Highway, so access was surprisingly convenient despite the remote feel. I was delighted to discover that we were surrounded by incredible natural attractions: Ziyun Mountain Natural Scenic Area, Labagou Primeval Forest Park, Yunmeng Mountain National Forest Park, and the magnificent Baihe Canyon. The famous Birch Forest Scenic Area was particularly close.
One of my favorite discoveries was the Tang River right at our doorstep. The water here flows directly into Beijing's Miyun Reservoir, serving as drinking water for the city. Because there are absolutely no pollution sources along the Tang River, the tap water at the homestay actually meets mineral water standards—we could drink it straight from the tap! I spent my first evening just sitting by the river, watching the sunset paint the water in shades of gold.
Day 2-3: Life at the Homestay
The homestay itself became a destination. The first-floor living room spans 30 square meters with a dedicated dining area and kitchen. My friends and I decided to cook our own meals one evening, buying fresh local vegetables from nearby farms. There's something incredibly satisfying about preparing a feast in a countryside kitchen with ingredients that were harvested just hours before.
The second floor also features a 30-square-meter living room, but what made it special was the terrace. We spent hours up there—singing karaoke with the portable machine, grilling fresh meat on the BBQ, and simply soaking in the panoramic views. The sunlight was warm and gentle, and watching the mountains change color as the day progressed became our favorite pastime.
🎯 Practical Info
Accommodation: Independent villa with 2 living rooms, kitchen, terraceActivities Available: KTV, BBQ, river fishing, mushroom foragingWater Quality: Drinkable tap water (mineral water standard)Best Time to Visit: Late September to early October for peak autumn colors
Day 4: Into the Forest
We ventured into the Labagou Primeval Forest, and the experience was nothing short of magical. The air was crisp and smelled of pine and earth. Everywhere I looked, nature was showing off—trees in full autumn regalia, the ground carpeted with fallen leaves, and sunlight filtering through the canopy in golden shafts.
The forest trails were well-maintained but still felt wild and authentic. We encountered locals collecting wild herbs and berries, and they shared stories about the forest's history. I was struck by how peaceful it was—no city noise, just the sound of wind through the trees and birds calling to each other.
One afternoon, we explored the Baihe Canyon. The dramatic rock formations and the rushing river below took my breath away. Standing at the edge, looking down at the water cutting through the gorge over thousands of years, I felt incredibly small yet deeply connected to something much larger than myself.
Day 5: Mushroom Foraging Adventure
October 1st was the perfect time for mushroom foraging, and this became one of the highlights of my trip. Walking through the forest with a local guide, we spotted patches of mushrooms everywhere—growing on fallen logs, hiding under leaves, clustering on mossy rocks. The dappled sunlight filtering through the trees made each mushroom cluster glow like little treasures.
The mushrooms were incredibly fresh and tender, thanks to the perfect amount of autumn rainfall. Our guide taught us which varieties were safe to eat and how to identify them. That evening, we brought our harvest back to the homestay and the owner helped us prepare a feast. The taste was incredible—earthy, delicate, and nothing like the mushrooms I buy at supermarkets back in the city. Plus, knowing they were 100% organic and wild-foraged made them taste even better.
Day 6: The Simple Life
On my final day, I decided to simply wander around the village and absorb the countryside atmosphere. I watched smoke rising from chimneys as locals prepared lunch, saw birds returning to the forest as evening approached, and gazed at the stars appearing one by one in the night sky. Standing there, feeling like a speck of dust in the vast universe yet completely at peace, I understood why people call this place a fairyland.
I walked along the small river, watched fish swimming lazily in the clear water, and tasted wild jujubes and fresh vegetables from local gardens. Every corner brought a new sense of comfort and relaxation. The contrast with city life couldn't be starker—no traffic noise, no deadlines, just the gentle rhythm of nature.
Reflections: A Different Side of Beijing
As I sat on the terrace that final evening, counting the stars and dreaming under the vast sky, I realized how little I knew about Beijing before this trip. This wasn't the Beijing of skyscrapers and traffic jams—this was Beijing of mountains and rivers, of ancient forests and clear streams, of simple living and genuine human connection.
Everything I saw—the golden autumn leaves, the pristine Tang River, the friendly villagers, the star-filled nights—belonged to me now, stored away as precious memories. I left with a full heart, knowing that I had discovered a secret that most visitors to Beijing never learn: just two hours from the city center lies a world of natural wonder waiting to be explored.
If you're looking to escape the crowds and experience authentic Chinese countryside hospitality, Shanshui Renjia in Labagoumen offers an unforgettable retreat. Come for the autumn colors, stay for the peace and tranquility, and leave with memories that will last a lifetime.