I spent an unforgettable day exploring Beijing's Grand View Garden (Daguanyuan), a living reproduction of the famous gardens from Dream of the Red Chamber (Hong Lou Meng), China's greatest classical novel. Walking through bamboo-lined paths that once framed the 1987 CCTV TV adaptation, discovering the opulent chambers of Jia Baoyu and Lin Daiyu, and standing in the very spots where epic scenes of love and tragedy unfolded—this journey transported me into the pages of a 250-year-old literary masterpiece.
Trip Overview
When: September 26, 2021 (Autumn)
Duration: 1 day
Travelers: Couple
Budget: ~50 RMB (~$7 USD) per person
Transportation: Walking along Beijing's 2nd Ring Road moat + taxi
🎯 Quick Facts
Location: 南菜园街, Xicheng District (西城区南菜园街) Entry Fee: ¥40 (~$6 USD) regular, ¥70 (~$10 USD) during flower exhibitions Opening Hours: 7:30 AM - 5:30 PM (last entry 4:30 PM) Best Time: Spring (April-May) for flowers, Autumn for mild weather Time Needed: 3-4 hours
Arrival: The Stone That Started It All
On a crisp September morning, my partner and I decided to take a different route to the Grand View Garden. Instead of hopping on the subway, we walked along Beijing's 2nd Ring Road moat—a peaceful path shaded by willows that most tourists never see. The morning light filtered through the trees as we approached the garden's south gate.
Just outside the entrance, a massive stone caught my eye. Carved with the characters "补天遗" (Bǔtiān Yí), it represents the legend of the Stone of Heaven's Remnant—supposedly the very stone left behind when the goddess Nüwa mended the heavens, which would later transform into Jia Baoyu, the novel's protagonist. I ran my hand over its cool surface, marveling at how a single stone could launch one of literature's most epic tales.
💡 Getting There
Subway: Line 4 to Caoqiao Station (草桥站), then 15-min walk
Bus: Routes 59, 122, 458 to Daguanyuan Station
Taxi: Tell driver "大观园" (Dàguānyuán) or "Nan Cai Yuan Street" (南菜园街)
First Impressions: A Mountain at the Door
Passing through the entrance gate, I was immediately struck by an artificial mountain rising before me. Built from elegant Taihu stones from Jiangsu province, this rockery creates the classic Chinese garden technique of "开门见山" (kāi mén jiàn shān)—"opening the door to see the mountain."
The inscription "曲径通幽处" (Qūjìng Tōng Yōu Chù)—"Winding path leads to secluded places"—was written by Jia Baoyu himself in the novel. As I wandered through its narrow passages, I couldn't help but feel I was being deliberately disoriented, just as visitors to classical Chinese gardens are meant to be, before the full beauty gradually reveals itself.
Yihong Courtyard: A World of Excess
Following the winding paths, I found myself at the Yihong Courtyard (怡红院, Yíhóng Yuàn)—the residence of Jia Baoyu (贾宝玉, Jiǎ Bǎoyù), the novel's central character and the garden's most lavish dwelling.
The plaque above the main hall reads "怡红快绿" (Yíhóng Kuàilǜ), meaning "Delighted by the Red and Green." Interestingly, this was changed by the Imperial Consort Yuan from the original "红香绿玉" (Hóngxiāng Lǜyù). Standing in the courtyard, I noticed the two plants Baoyu loved most: banana trees and crabapple flowers, their subtle fragrance drifting on the breeze.
Inside, the rooms were divided by exquisitely carved wooden screens displaying vases, antique books, and curios. The opulence was overwhelming—every surface seemed to compete for attention, perfectly reflecting Baoyu's character as a privileged young man surrounded by beauty and luxury.
Longcui An: Finding Peace
From the excess of Yihong Courtyard, I sought the tranquility of Longcui An (栊翠庵, Lóngcuì Ān)—the Buddhist nunnery where the mysterious Miaoyu (妙玉, Miàoyù) lived. This was the only place in the garden dedicated to spiritual practice, and the moment I stepped inside, the atmosphere shifted dramatically.
The incense smoke curled lazily in the air, and simple wooden furnishings replaced the ornate decorations of the courtyards. I sat on a stone bench for a few minutes, watching autumn leaves fall, and thought about Miaoyu's character—cultured yet aloof, spiritual yet somehow trapped by her own refinement.
Two Places for Moon Gazing
As midday approached, I discovered two pavilions specifically designed for moon viewing—an essential activity in classical Chinese gardens. The Aojing Pavilion (凹晶溪馆, Āojīng Xīguǎn) sits right at the water's edge, where the moon reflects perfectly in the pond below, creating the illusion of two moons competing for brilliance.
In contrast, the Tubi Villa (凸碧山庄, Tūbì Shānzhuāng) perches on higher ground. Standing there, imagining the moon high above while distant flute music drifts through the night air, I understood why the Jia family would climb here during Mid-Autumn Festival celebrations. The higher vantage point creates an entirely different mood—one of spiritual elevation rather than earthly reflection.
The Grand Archway
At the garden's ceremonial center stands the Shenqin Villa Archway (省亲别墅, Shěngqīn Biéshù)—a towering 8-meter structure that dominates the northern shore of Qinfang Pond. The golden characters "省亲别墅" (Villa for Visiting Parents) glittered in the afternoon sun.
I learned that the side inscriptions—"芳岸" (Fāng'àn, Fragrant Shore) and "玉津" (Yùjīn, Jade Ford)—are references to the garden's water features. The reverse side reads "国恩家庆" (Guó'ēn Jiāqìng, National Blessing and Family Celebration), flanked by "云影" (Yúnyǐng, Cloud Shadows) and "波光" (Bōguāng, Shimmering Waves). Standing before it, I could almost picture the imperial procession arriving for the family reunion scenes in the novel.
Guen Siyi Hall: The Ceremonial Heart
Beyond the archway lies the Guen Siyi Hall (顾恩思义殿, Gù'ēn Sīyì Diàn)—the main ceremonial hall where the family received imperial visitors. The scale is impressive, designed to accommodate grand audiences.
Flanking the main hall are two auxiliary buildings: Zhuijin Pavilion (缀锦阁, Zhuìjǐn Gé) to the east and Hanfang Pavilion (含芳阁, Hánfāng Gé) to the west. These were used for preparing banquets and storing props during ceremonies. I imagined the bustle of servants carrying dishes and arranging flowers while the family awaited the imperial summons.
Hengwuyuan: The Cold Beauty's Domain
Next, I visited Hengwuyuan (蘅芜苑, Héngwú Yuàn)—the residence of Xue Baochai (薛宝钗, Xuē Bǎochāi), the "Cold Beauty" whose character embodied Confucian propriety and emotional restraint.
True to her character, the courtyard contained no flowering plants at all—only strange vines and exotic grasses. The austere landscaping perfectly mirrored Baochai's personality: proper, controlled, and somewhat distant. I found the contrast with Yihong Courtyard's exuberance striking; these two courtyards seem to embody the novel's central conflict between passionate individualism and social conformity.
Huaxu: A Unique Corner
Among the garden's many scenic spots, Huaxu (花溆, Huāxù) stands out as something different. The name suggests a "flower islet," and indeed this area features unique water and rock arrangements that create a more intimate, contemplative atmosphere.
Daoxiang Village: A Rustic Retreat
In a corner of the garden, I discovered Daoxiang Village (稻香村, Dàoxiāng Cūn)—the residence of Li Wan (李纨, Lǐ Wán), the young widow who finds solace in simple rural life.
Unlike the elaborate courtyards of the other characters, this area is planted with vegetables and fruit trees. The name comes from the novel's description: "一畦春韭绿，十里稻花香" (A patch of spring chives glowing green, ten miles of rice flowers fragrant). Walking through the vegetable plots, I appreciated this deliberate contrast with the garden's other ornate areas—it represented an escape into authenticity amid all the artifice.
Xiaoxiang Hall: Bamboo and Melancholy
Saving perhaps the most atmospheric location for last, I arrived at Xiaoxiang Hall (潇湘馆, Xiāoxiāng Guǎn)—the residence of Lin Daiyu (林黛玉, Lín Dàiyù), the novel's tragic heroine.
The novel describes it as being surrounded by bamboo: "凤尾森森，龙吟细细，一片翠竹环绕" (Phoenix-tail bamboo dense and deep, dragon-whispers soft and fine, a ring of emerald bamboo all around). Standing there, surrounded by rustling bamboo that seemed to whisper ancient secrets, I finally understood why Lin Daiyu was called "潇湘妃子" (Xiāoxiāng Fēizǐ, Princess of the Xiao-Xiang Rivers)—the bamboo represented her noble spirit, her literary refinement, and ultimately her fragile, melancholy beauty.
Final Reflections
As the afternoon light began to slant through the bamboo, my partner and I sat on a stone bench, reviewing the photos we'd taken. Walking through the Grand View Garden had been like stepping into the pages of a novel I'd read years ago—every courtyard, every rockery, every carefully placed plant seemed to echo with the laughter, tears, and poetry of characters who lived nearly three centuries ago.
🎭 About Dream of the Red Chamber
Dream of the Red Chamber (Hong Lou Meng), written by Cao Xueqin in the 18th century, is considered China's greatest novel. It follows the decline of the wealthy Jia family and centers on the tragic love triangle between Jia Baoyu, Lin Daiyu, and Xue Baochai. The Grand View Garden was built in 1984 specifically as a filming location for the 1987 CCTV television adaptation, and was opened to the public in 1989.
What struck me most was how each residence seemed to embody its occupant's soul. The exuberant Yihong Courtyard, the austere Hengwuyuan, the melancholy Xiaoxiang Hall with its whispering bamboo—architecture as character psychology. It made me realize how deeply Chinese garden design encodes philosophical and literary meanings.
For Western visitors, I can't recommend this place highly enough. It's not just a beautiful garden—it's a three-dimensional literature lesson, a window into Chinese aesthetics, and a surprisingly intimate experience for a Beijing tourist site. Come with an open mind, perhaps read a chapter or two of Dream of the Red Chamber beforehand, and let yourself be transported.
Quick Reference Guide
Key Locations in Order
South Gate & Stone of Heaven's Remnant – The legendary stone that became Jia Baoyu Entrance Rockery – "Winding Path Leads to Secluded Places" Yihong Courtyard (怡红院) – Jia Baoyu's lavish residence Longcui An (栊翠庵) – Buddhist nunnery of Miaoyu Aojing Pavilion & Tubi Villa – Moon viewing spots Shenqin Villa Archway – Ceremonial entrance Guen Siyi Hall – Main ceremonial hall Hengwuyuan (蘅芜苑) – Xue Baochai's residence Huaxu – Unique flower islet Daoxiang Village (稻香村) – Li Wan's rustic retreat Xiaoxiang Hall (潇湘馆) – Lin Daiyu's bamboo residence
Essential Tips
Best Time: Spring (April-May) for flowering crabapples, Autumn for clear skies Photography: Morning light is best; afternoon can be crowded Reading: Chapter 17-18 of Dream of the Red Chamber describes the garden's construction Duration: Plan 3-4 hours minimum Gift Shop: Located near exit; sells Red Chamber-themed books and souvenirs