In September 2020, as the world slowly reopened, I embarked on a solo adventure to Guilin—a name synonymous with China's most legendary landscapes. Over five unforgettable days, I drifted down the mist-shrouded Li River on bamboo rafts, explored cavernous caves that felt like underground kingdoms, climbed peaks for panoramic views, and discovered why travelers have been enchanted by these karst mountains for millennia. From the tranquil waters of Yulong River to the bustling streets of Yangshuo, this journey revealed layers of natural beauty and local life that no postcard could ever capture.
Trip Overview
When: September 2020 (Autumn)
Duration: 5 days
Travelers: Solo
Budget: ~2,000 RMB (~$280 USD)
Transportation: Local buses, taxis, and bamboo rafts
Best For: Nature lovers, photography enthusiasts, first-time visitors to China
Day 1: Arrival and First Impressions
When I finally decided to venture out after months of staying home, Guilin (桂林, Guìlín) called to me like an old promise. I'd seen the photographs—the impossible limestone peaks rising from mirror-like rivers—but nothing prepared me for the reality of standing here, breathing in the humid September air, watching those same mountains turn gold in the late afternoon light.
My first day was intentionally slow. I wandered along the banks of the Li River (漓江, Líjiāng), letting jet lag dissolve into wonder. The sky here has a different quality than Beijing's—softer, hazier, like an ink wash painting come to life. I found a small teahouse overlooking the water and sat for hours, watching local fishermen prepare their cormorants for evening fishing. An elderly man noticed my camera and gestured for me to wait. At sunset, he demonstrated how the birds dive and catch fish—a tradition older than memory, now mostly performed for tourists, but still beautiful.
🎯 Practical Info
Getting There: Guilin Liangjiang International Airport (KWL) connects to major Chinese cities Best Time: April-October, though September offered perfect weather Language: Basic Mandarin helps; translation apps essential for solo travelers Pro Tip: Download offline maps—cell service can be spotty in rural areas
Day 2: Crown Cave (冠岩, Guānyán) – Into the Underground Kingdom
The morning began with a revelation. I'd expected another tourist trap cave with colored lights and concrete walkways. Instead, Crown Cave delivered one of the most surprising experiences of my entire trip.
Located in Caoping Township along the middle reaches of the Li River, this karst cave system is enormous—hence its reputation as "the crown of all caves." But the highlight? A miniature train that actually takes you into the mountain's heart. Yes, you read that right—a train, inside a cave.
Riding that small electric train through the cave's entrance tunnel, watching stalactites drip from the ceiling just meters above my head, I couldn't stop grinning. The journey felt both absurd and magical. Beyond the train ride, the cave opened into cathedral-like chambers with underground waterfalls, hidden rivers, and even an elevator that descends 36 meters deeper into the mountain.
🎯 Practical Info
Entry Fee: ¥80 (~$11 USD) for basic admission Combo Ticket: ¥120 (~$17 USD) includes train ride and elevator Duration: 2-3 hours Best Time: Morning, before tour buses arrive Getting There: Bus from Guilin Bus Station to Caoping (about 1 hour) Pro Tip: Definitely get the combo ticket—the train ride is worth every yuan
After emerging from the cave's depths, I climbed the nearby mountain trail. The view from the top revealed the cave entrance far below, with the Li River winding through karst peaks in the distance. There's a stone tablet here with calligraphy by Li Zongren, a former Chinese president—another layer of history in a place that already felt timeless.
I've visited caves across China and Southeast Asia, but Crown Cave stands out for its creativity and scale. If you only visit one cave in Guilin, make it this one. Skip the more famous Silver Cave (银子岩, Yínzi Yán)—it's overcrowded and underwhelming compared to this subterranean wonderland.
Day 3: Gudong Waterfall (古东瀑布, Gǔdōng Pùbù) and Xingping
I'll be honest—Gudong Waterfall was a maybe on my itinerary. The idea of climbing up waterfalls seemed gimmicky, and I almost skipped it. But something about the cool September morning made me say yes.
The site offers two experiences: a standard trail alongside the cascades, or the adventure route—climbing directly up the waterfalls using chains and footholds. I watched other visitors strapping into harnesses and decided to take the path less traveled. The climb was exhilarating and surprisingly safe, with well-maintained chains and guides positioned along the route.
🎯 Practical Info
Entry Fee: ¥75 (~$10 USD) Waterfall Climbing: Additional ¥50 (~$7 USD) for equipment rental Duration: 3-4 hours What to Bring: Water shoes or sandals (you WILL get wet) Verdict: Skip if you're short on time; worth it for adventure seekers
That afternoon, I made my way to Xingping (兴坪, Xīngpíng)—a small town that's the starting point for the most famous section of Li River bamboo rafting.
Day 4: Xingping River Drift – The Landscape of Dreams
If you do one thing in Guilin, do this. The bamboo raft journey from Yangdi (杨堤, Yángdī) to Xingping is the quintessential Li River experience, and I was blessed with the perfect conditions—a misty, drizzling morning that transformed the karst peaks into a living ink painting.
I boarded a four-person bamboo raft at Yangdi, joining three other travelers. The motor-powered bamboo poles pushed us gently downstream as our boatman pointed out formations along the way. The most famous? Nine Horse Hill (九马画山, Jiǔmǎ Huàshān), where legend says those who can spot all nine horses hidden in the cliff face will achieve greatness. I found four before giving up.
But the real magic wasn't in naming the formations—it was in the atmosphere. The light rain created veils of mist between peaks. Water buffalo grazed along the banks. Fishermen cast nets in timeless poses. For two hours, I forgot about cameras and simply existed in a landscape that felt too beautiful to be real.
🎯 Practical Info
Route: Yangdi to Xingping (the classic scenic stretch) Duration: 1.5-2 hours Cost: ¥216 (~$30 USD) per person (minimum 4 people, or pay for empty seats) Best Time: Early morning (7-9 AM) for mist and fewer crowds Weather: Light rain creates the most atmospheric conditions Getting There: Bus from Guilin to Yangdi (about 1 hour) Warning: Avoid weekends and Chinese holidays—rafts sell out fast
After disembarking in Xingping Ancient Town (兴坪古镇, Xīngpíng Gǔzhèn), I explored the narrow streets. Unlike the more famous West Street in Yangshuo, Xingping feels authentically lived-in—small shops, local restaurants, elderly residents playing cards in doorways. I found a supermarket and stocked up on fresh fruit (the pomelos here are incredible) before settling in for the night.
Day 5: Yulong River and Yangshuo
My final day brought me to the Yulong River (遇龙河, Yùlóng Hé)—often called the "Little Li River" but possessing its own distinct character. Where the Li River feels grand and dramatic, Yulong is intimate and serene.
The bamboo rafts here are smaller—just two passengers plus a boatman who poles the raft silently through the water. The banks are lined with graceful phoenix tail bamboo that sway in the breeze. For an hour, the only sounds were the pole dipping into water and birds calling from the banks.
🎯 Practical Info
Route: Various entry points; Jinlong Bridge to Jiuxian is popular Duration: 1-1.5 hours Cost: ¥160-200 (~$22-28 USD) per raft (2 people) Best Time: Late afternoon for golden light Note: More expensive than Li River but more peaceful and traditional
That evening, I explored Yangshuo's West Street (西街, Xījiē). After the tranquility of Yulong River, the crowds here felt overwhelming. It's the classic Chinese tourist street—bars, restaurants, souvenir shops, neon signs in multiple languages. Having visited Lijiang and Dali's ancient towns, I found West Street similar but less charming. If you've seen one, you've seen them all.
But Yangshuo redeemed itself when I discovered Yangshuo Park (阳朔公园, Yángshuò Gōngyuán), just across from the Party School guesthouse. Local elderly residents gathered here for tai chi and ballroom dancing. I climbed the small hill inside the park and found ancient stone inscriptions and, best of all, a panoramic view of Yangshuo town nestled among karst peaks.
My final stop was Moon Hill (月亮山, Yuèliàng Shān), named for the crescent-shaped arch that pierces through its peak. I didn't climb to the top—instead, I enjoyed lunch at a restaurant at the mountain's base, where the meadow offered perfect photo opportunities with the moon gate framing the sky.
Practical Summary: What I Learned
Don't skip Guilin city itself. Many travelers rush straight to Yangshuo, but Guilin offers its own treasures—Elephant Trunk Hill (象鼻山, Xiàngbí Shān), the Two Rivers and Four Lakes cruise, and Diecai Hill (叠彩山, Diécǎi Shān) for panoramic views. The Taohua River (桃花江, Táohuā Jiāng) area is perfect for quiet fishing and reflection.
Weather is everything. The famous Guilin landscapes look dramatically different depending on conditions. Clear days reveal sharp peaks and blue rivers, but misty, rainy days transform the scene into a classical Chinese painting. I experienced both and honestly preferred the moody, atmospheric weather.
Travel solo, but connect. As a solo traveler, I worried about language barriers and logistics, but I found the locals patient and helpful. Download Pleco (dictionary app) and use translation apps. Learn a few phrases: "Nǐ hǎo" (你好, hello), "Xièxiè" (谢谢, thank you), "Duōshao qián?" (多少钱, how much?).
Embrace the unexpected. The most memorable moments weren't in the guidebooks—the elderly man teaching me cormorant fishing, the boatman who shared his lunch, the wrong turn that led to a hidden viewpoint. Guilin rewards those who wander.
Quick Reference Guide
🌟 Must-Do Experiences
Li River Bamboo Raft (Yangdi to Xingping): The #1 experience—non-negotiable Crown Cave: Underground train and elevator—surprisingly awesome Yulong River Rafting: More peaceful and traditional than Li River Sunset from Yangshuo Park: Best view in town, free entry
💰 Budget Breakdown (5 Days)
Accommodation: ¥600-800 (~$85-110 USD) for budget-mid range Food: ¥300-400 (~$40-55 USD)—local restaurants are cheap and delicious Transportation: ¥200-300 (~$28-42 USD)—buses and taxis Activities: ¥600-800 (~$85-110 USD)—rafting, caves, parks Total: ~¥1,700-2,300 (~$240-320 USD)
📱 Essential Apps
Pleco: Chinese dictionary with OCR camera feature DiDi: China's Uber equivalent Alipay/WeChat Pay: Mobile payment (essential—bring cash as backup) Offline Maps: Maps.me or download offline Google Maps
🎒 Packing Essentials
Waterproof phone case (for rafting) Quick-dry clothes and water shoes Rain jacket (even in "dry" season) Power bank (sockets are scarce in rural areas) Snacks (for long bus rides between sites)
⚠️ Things to Avoid
Skip Silver Cave—overrated and overcrowded compared to Crown Cave Avoid West Street during evening peak hours—unpleasantly packed Don't book rafting through hotels—markups are significant; go directly to ticket offices Skip the Gudong Waterfall climb if you're short on time—not essential