I spent six unforgettable days exploring Guilin and Yangshuo, a region that had eluded me twice before until I finally discovered its magic with the right company and timing. From watching the sunrise paint the karst peaks in golden hues to climbing waterfalls barefoot, from drifting down the Li River at dawn to riding a white horse along its banks at sunset—this journey revealed why Guilin's landscape has inspired poets and painters for centuries. Walking through ancient villages, experiencing traditional crafts, and sharing moments with cormorant fishermen, I finally understood what makes this place so special. If you're seeking that perfect blend of dramatic scenery, cultural immersion, and outdoor adventure, Guilin delivers in ways that will stay with you long after you've returned home.
Trip Overview
When: Early October (Autumn)
Duration: 6 days
Travelers: With friends
Budget: ~5,000 RMB (~$700 USD) per person
Transportation: Flight + Car rental with driver
Day 1: Arrival and First Encounters
When my flight touched down in Guilin, I felt a mix of anticipation and déjà vu. This was my third visit to this legendary landscape, yet somehow the previous trips had left me feeling like I'd missed something essential. This time, with my friend Ting—who knows Guilin like the back of her hand—I was determined to finally experience the Guilin that had captivated travelers for millennia.
Our first stop was Zizhou Island (訾洲岛), a place I'd never heard of despite my previous visits. "This is where you get the best view of Elephant Trunk Hill," Ting explained as we stepped off the shuttle. And she was absolutely right. Unlike the crowded viewpoints on the opposite bank, Zizhou Island offered an unobstructed, picture-perfect perspective of the iconic elephant-shaped rock formation drinking from the Li River.
As I stood there, camera in hand, I couldn't help but whisper "wow" as the blue sky provided a stunning backdrop to the elephant silhouette. The river flowed peacefully by, bamboo rafts drifted past, and for the first time, I felt that connection to Guilin's landscape that had always seemed just out of reach.
🎯 Practical Info: Zizhou Island
Entry Fee: ¥30 (~$4 USD) Best Time: Late afternoon for golden light on Elephant Trunk Hill Don't Miss: The Hanbaiyu Bridge with ancient poetry inscriptions, the central lawn with Liu Zongyuan's statue Pro Tip: Rent traditional Zhuang clothing for photos with Elephant Trunk Hill
Beyond the elephant viewing platform, Zizhou Island revealed itself as a lush oasis. We wandered through bamboo groves that swayed in the breeze, stumbled upon hidden pavilions where locals practiced dance, and discovered a charming afternoon tea spot nestled among the trees. The purple wisteria corridor was particularly magical—an unexpected burst of color that seemed almost too perfect to be real.
By late afternoon, we made our way to Diecai Mountain (叠彩山) for what Ting promised would be an unforgettable sunset. After a moderate hike to a cave halfway up the mountain, we found ourselves looking out through a natural stone window that perfectly framed Guilin's skyline and the karst peaks beyond. As the sun began to dip, the sky transformed into shades of orange and pink, reflecting off the mountains in a display that left us speechless.
🎯 Practical Info: Diecai Mountain Sunset
Entry Fee: ¥25 (~$3.50 USD) Best Time: Arrive 1 hour before sunset (around 6:30 PM in October) Note: The park closes after sunset, so don't linger too long Bring: Snacks and water for the wait
Day 2: Ancient Villages and Waterfall Adventures
The morning found us driving along the winding Li River to Dongli Ancient Village (东漓古村), a meticulously restored settlement that preserves the traditional architecture and lifestyle of northern Guangxi. Walking through the stone-paved lanes, I felt like I'd stepped back in time. The village featured everything from ancestral halls to traditional schools, each building showcasing the distinctive architectural elements of the region—flying eaves, horse-head walls, and intricate wood joinery that required no nails.
What truly captivated me, though, were the living craftspeople demonstrating traditional skills. We watched a deaf artisan throw pottery on a wheel, creating perfect vessels in under a minute. An elderly woman wove palm-leaf fans with fingers that moved with decades of muscle memory. I even tried my hand at making chopsticks, sanding rough wooden blanks into smooth, personalized utensils I could take home.
The highlight was lunch served in a traditional manner—dishes arrived on a "human sedan chair," carried by staff in period costume, and we dined in the main hall of an ancient house surrounded by carved wooden furniture. Local performers entertained us with colorful traditional opera, creating an experience that felt genuinely authentic rather than touristy.
🎯 Practical Info: Dongli Ancient Village
Entry Fee: ¥60 (~$8.50 USD) Activities: Pottery making, grass weaving, chopstick crafting, tie-dyeing Duration: Half day recommended Wear: Hanfu or traditional Chinese clothing for immersive photos
In the afternoon, we headed to Gudong Waterfall (古东瀑布) for an experience unlike anything I'd done before—climbing a waterfall. After renting helmets and special rubber-soled straw sandals, we began our ascent through a forest rich with negative ions and ancient trees. The path wound past stone bridges and "fortune gates," with educational displays about Zhuang culture and environmental conservation.
The actual waterfall climbing was exhilarating. The first tier, called "Divine Turtle Drinking," had the steepest drop. I gripped the iron chains as I scrambled up the rock face, cool water rushing around my ankles. What surprised me most was the sense of community—strangers helped each other up difficult sections, creating an unexpected bond through shared adventure.
After reaching the top, we descended via a thrilling slide and zip line, emerging at the base exhilarated and soaked—but grinning from ear to ear.
🎯 Practical Info: Gudong Waterfall
Entry Fee: ¥75 (~$10.50 USD), equipment rental ¥15 (~$2 USD) Best For: Summer and early autumn Bring: Change of clothes and waterproof bag for valuables Note: Suitable for children on easier tiers
Day 3: Paradise Found
We set out early for Shiwai Taoyuan (世外桃源)—literally "Peach Blossom Spring Beyond the World"—a scenic area inspired by the classic Chinese fable of a hidden utopia. The experience began with a boat ride through tranquil waters, passing beneath ancient stone bridges and past traditional villages where locals actually live. The karst peaks rose dramatically on all sides, their reflections creating perfect mirror images in the still water.
The boat passed through Swallow Cave, a dark tunnel where we couldn't see our hands in front of our faces, before emerging into a narrow waterway that opened suddenly onto a grove of peach trees—just like in the ancient tale. The attention to detail was remarkable, creating a genuine sense of discovery.
On shore, we were greeted by members of the Dong ethnic minority performing traditional music. In a traditional drum tower, women sang the "Grand Song"—a form of polyphonic choral singing recognized by UNESCO as intangible cultural heritage. What struck me most was learning that the Dong people have no written language, yet they preserve their history and stories entirely through song.
We tried the traditional ball-tossing game, where unmarried Zhuang women throw embroidered balls to potential suitors. The entire experience felt celebratory and welcoming—a genuine glimpse into minority cultures rather than a staged performance.
The Wind and Rain Bridge (风雨桥), built entirely without nails using traditional mortise and tenon joints, offered breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape. Walking across it, I couldn't help but admire the engineering wisdom passed down through generations.
🎯 Practical Info: Shiwai Taoyuan
Entry Fee: ¥75 (~$10.50 USD), includes boat tour Duration: 3-4 hours Don't Miss: Dong Grand Song performance, Wind and Rain Bridge Pro Tip: Wear ethnic clothing for photos that blend with the scenery
Day 4-5: Living the Li River Dream
We arrived at Xingping (兴坪) as the afternoon sun painted the karst peaks in warm gold. This was the view from the back of China's 20 yuan note—one of the most recognizable landscapes in the world. As we waited for the ferry to cross to our accommodation, I watched the busy waterway with a sense of wonder. This had been my entry point years ago, but I was seeing it with completely fresh eyes.
Our home for the next two nights was Xianyunju Resort (闲云居), located on the north bank of the Li River in a small fishing village. Unlike staying in Yangshuo town, this location immersed us directly in the landscape. The Chinese-style room opened onto panoramic views of the river, and I fell asleep each night to the gentle sound of water lapping against bamboo rafts.
The rooftop terrace became our favorite spot—offering unobstructed views of Yuanbao Mountain (the 20 yuan note peak) and the surrounding karst formations. We spent hours up there, reading in the book-filled pavilion, sipping tea at the outdoor table, and watching the changing light on the mountains throughout the day.
One evening, we arranged for a candlelit dinner on the terrace. As the sun set and thousands of white egrets flew overhead in formation, returning to their roosts along the river, I felt a sense of peace that I hadn't experienced in years. The combination of good food, stunning views, and the gentle river breeze created a moment of pure magic.
Morning Bamboo Raft on the Li River
The next morning began before dawn. We had arranged a private bamboo raft to experience the Li River at its most peaceful hour. As we pushed off from the shore in the pre-dawn darkness, the world felt absolutely still. The only sounds were the gentle dip of the boatman's pole and distant bird calls.
Gradually, the sky began to lighten, revealing the silhouettes of the karst peaks against a gradient of purple and orange. We passed the famous 20 yuan view, trying to spot the cormorant fisherman who famously appears on the note. Herons and egrets took flight around us, their white wings catching the first rays of sunlight.
At Huangbu Reflection, where the water creates a perfect mirror of the mountains, we turned the raft and simply drifted, waiting for the sun to crest the peaks. When it finally broke through, the entire landscape transformed—warm light flooded the valley, turning the karst formations golden and casting long shadows across the water.
We ended our journey at Nine Horse Fresco Hill, where local legend says that those who can spot all nine horses hidden in the rock face will achieve great fortune. Our boatman pointed out three or four, but the rest eluded me—perhaps that's why I'm still a travel writer rather than a millionaire!
🎯 Practical Info: Li River Morning Raft
Cost: ¥200-300 (~$28-42 USD) for private raft, depending on route Best Time: Depart 30 minutes before sunrise Duration: 2-3 hours Bring: Warm layers for the morning chill, camera with zoom lens for birds Pro Tip: Book through your accommodation for best rates and timing
Ancient Bridges of the Yulong River
Later that morning, we explored the Yulong River (遇龙河), a tributary of the Li that offers a more intimate, rural experience. Instead of taking another bamboo raft, we focused on the ancient stone bridges that span the river. Our first stop was Fenghuang Bridge (凤凰桥), originally built during the Qing Dynasty. Though overgrown and no longer in use, its single arch created a perfect circle when reflected in the water below.
Our second bridge, Fuli Bridge (富里桥), was far more impressive. Ancient banyan trees had wrapped their roots around the stone structure, creating a scene that looked like something from a fairy tale. This was the starting point for bamboo rafting on the Yulong, and watching rafts drift beneath the arch gave us a perfect perspective of the "Little Li River" scenery.
Sidecar Adventure Through the Countryside
From Old County Village (旧县), we rented a vintage-style motorcycle with a sidecar—the kind of vehicle you might see in old war movies, but painted in cheerful pastel colors. Our route took us through golden wheat fields backed by karst peaks, creating a landscape that felt almost Tuscan except for the distinctive Chinese mountains.
We drove along narrow lanes, crossing low dams where the water barely covered the road, creating perfect reflections of the scenery. The sidecar turned out to be the perfect vehicle for this terrain—slow enough to enjoy the views, small enough to navigate the narrow village roads, and stylish enough to make us feel like we were in a movie.
🎯 Practical Info: Yulong River Area
Sidecar Rental: ¥150-200 (~$21-28 USD) for half day Route: Start from Old County Village, follow river north Best Season: Late September for golden wheat fields Safety: Drive slowly on wet dam crossings
Sunset with the Cormorant Fisherman
Our final evening brought perhaps the most iconic Guilin experience—a photo session with a traditional cormorant fisherman. These elderly men, with their white beards, bamboo rafts, and trained cormorants, have become famous symbols of the Li River. What was once an actual fishing method is now largely a photographic service, but that didn't diminish the magic.
We met our fisherman at a shallow beach as the sun began to set, casting an orange glow across the water. After arranging the lighting and positioning, he began his performance—casting nets, posing with his cormorants, and lighting traditional oil lamps as the sky darkened. The trained birds sat patiently on their perches, occasionally diving into the water to demonstrate their fishing skills.
As the sky transitioned to deep blue, the fisherman lit his lamp and left the raft with us, trusting us to return it. We spent the next hour creating our own photos against the backdrop of mountains silhouetted against the twilight sky—a truly unforgettable experience.
🎯 Practical Info: Cormorant Fisherman Experience
Cost: ¥300-500 (~$42-70 USD) for 1-2 hours Best Time: 30 minutes before sunset through blue hour Booking: Through accommodation or online in advance Note: Be prepared for other tourists who may try to photo-bomb your session
Horseback Riding at Sunset
For our final adventure, we rode white horses along the Li River as the sun made its final descent. There's something surreal about riding a horse against a backdrop of karst peaks—the combination of animals and landscape created scenes that felt like they belonged in ancient Chinese paintings.
The horses were gentle and well-trained, perfect for riders of any experience level. We walked along the riverbank, through shallow water, and across sandy beaches as the last light of day painted everything in golden hues. It was the perfect way to say goodbye to this magical landscape.
Day 6: Sunrise Over the Peaks and Departure
Our final morning started at 4 AM for one last magical experience—watching sunrise from a mountaintop viewpoint. We chose to skip the famous (and crowded) Xianggong Mountain in favor of a lesser-known spot that our host recommended. The climb was steep in parts, but when we reached the summit and looked out over the endless sea of karst peaks stretching to the horizon, every step felt worthwhile.
In the pre-dawn darkness, we set up our cameras and waited. Gradually, the sky began to lighten, revealing layers of mountains fading into the distance like waves on an ocean. When the sun finally broke through a gap in the peaks, it cast long shadows across the valley and turned the landscape into a painting of gold and green.
We celebrated with a mountaintop picnic—bread, fruit, and coffee enjoyed while sitting on ancient rocks, surrounded by one of the world's most spectacular landscapes. As I looked out at the view, I realized that after three visits, I had finally found the Guilin I'd been seeking all along.
🎯 Practical Info: Mountain Sunrise Viewpoints
Xianggong Mountain: ¥60 (~$8.50 USD), 20-minute climb, most popular Damian Mountain: Free, 45-minute climb, no crowds Best Time: Arrive 45 minutes before sunrise Bring: Headlamp, warm jacket, breakfast picnic
Where to Stay
Guilin City
Sheraton Guilin Hotel (桂林喜来登饭店)—Located near Elephant Trunk Hill and the Two Rivers and Four Lakes scenic area. The central location makes it perfect for exploring the city. The hotel features a photogenic spiral staircase and excellent seafood buffet dinner with lobster.
Yangshuo/Xingping
Xianyunju Resort (阳朔闲云居度假酒店)—Located on the north bank of the Li River in Xingping's fishing village. This Chinese-style boutique hotel offers panoramic river views, a rooftop terrace with stunning mountain vistas, and a peaceful atmosphere away from tourist crowds. The perfect base for exploring the best of the Li River scenery.
What to Eat
Guilin Rice Noodles (桂林米粉)
The quintessential Guilin dish. Authentic local style is dry first—mix the noodles with the savory meat sauce, then add broth. Must-try toppings include "guoshao" (crispy roast pork) and intestines.
Recommended spots:
Honghuang (洪荒): Generous portions, add extra sauce to taste Laodongjiang (老东江): Famous local institution, may need to stand during rush hours
Beer Fish (啤酒鱼)
Yangshuo's signature dish—fresh Li River carp cooked with beer, creating tender, flavorful meat. A must-try when in the area.
Stuffed Tofu (酿豆腐)
A Hakka specialty where firm tofu is hollowed out and stuffed with seasoned pork, then simmered until the tofu absorbs all the savory flavors.
River Snails with Beef (螺蛳牛排)
Tender beef braised in a rich, spicy broth flavored with river snails—the same broth used in the famous "luosifen" noodles. The snails themselves are also edible for the adventurous.
Getting There & Around
By Air
Guilin Liangjiang International Airport has flights from major Chinese cities and some international destinations. From Shanghai, the flight takes 2.5-3 hours. Off-peak tickets can be as low as ¥200 (~$28 USD).
Airport to City: Airport shuttle bus to Civil Aviation Building (¥20, ~$3 USD), stopping at the railway station. Runs hourly.
By High-Speed Rail
Guilin has three stations: Guilin Station (city center), Guilin North, and Guilin West. Yangshuo also now has a high-speed rail station near Xingping, making it convenient to start your trip directly in the scenic area.
Getting Around
For the itinerary described, hiring a car with driver is highly recommended. Public buses are point-to-point and infrequent outside the main tourist routes. Renting a car and self-driving is another option if you're comfortable navigating Chinese roads.
💡 Quick Tips
Best Season: Spring (April-May) or Autumn (September-October) for clear skies and comfortable temperatures Avoid: Chinese national holidays when crowds are overwhelming Cash: Bring cash—many smaller villages don't accept cards or mobile payment Sun Protection: The karst landscape offers little shade—sunscreen and hats essential Photography: Early morning and late afternoon offer the best light