I spent four unforgettable days exploring Guilin and Yangshuo, the legendary landscapes that have inspired Chinese poets and painters for centuries. Cruising down the Li River (漓江, Lí Jiāng) with karst peaks rising like giant jade sculptures from the morning mist, wandering through ancient Lingqu Canal (灵渠, Líng Qú) that connected China's great waterways over 2,000 years ago, and marveling at the Dragon's Backbone Rice Terraces (龙脊梯田, Lóngjǐ Tītián) carved into mountainsides by generations of farmers—this journey revealed why Guilin's scenery truly lives up to its fame as "the finest under heaven." If you're seeking that quintessential Chinese landscape experience with your family, this four-day itinerary delivers moments you'll treasure forever.
Trip Overview
When: Summer (July 2022)
Duration: 4 days
Travelers: Family with child
Budget: ~1,500 RMB (~$210 USD) per person
Transportation: Flight + Rental Car + Local transport
Day 1: Arrival and Stepping into History
When I first heard that old song lyric—"I want to go to Guilin, but when I have time I don't have money, and when I have money I don't have time"—I couldn't help but smile. Guilin (桂林, Guìlín) has been the dream destination for countless Chinese travelers, and now I was finally here. The July heat was oppressive and humid, far from ideal travel weather, but that also meant fewer crowds—a silver lining, perhaps, along with the post-pandemic travel lull.
My flight touched down at noon, and I headed straight to my first stop: Duxiu Peak (独秀峰, Dúxiù Fēng) and Jingjiang Princes' City (靖江王城, Jìngjiāng Wángchéng). This princely residence was built even before Beijing's Forbidden City during the Ming Dynasty. Duxiu Peak stands majestically within the palace grounds—a solitary limestone karst rising dramatically from flat ground.
Jingjiang Princes' City main gate
Today, Jingjiang Princes' City is part of Guangxi Normal University (广西师范大学), so don't be surprised to see university signs at the entrance. The entrance fee includes a guided tour with audio devices. After entering, you'll wait in a lounge area until a group forms, then a guide leads you through the compound.
Chengyun Hall, the main palace building
Chengyun Hall served as the main palace building. The current structure was rebuilt in 1947 and once housed the Guangxi Provincial Government offices. However, the carved stone railings and steps before the hall are original Ming Dynasty artifacts. Inside, exhibitions detail the fascinating history of the Jingjiang princes.
Ancient stone carvings on Duxiu Peak
Duxiu Peak features two famous stone inscriptions. One is the massive "Pillar of Southern Heaven" carving, and the other is a poem containing the legendary phrase "Guilin's landscape is the finest under heaven" (桂林山水甲天下)—yes, this is where that famous saying originates!
The stone inscription where "Guilin's landscape is the finest under heaven" originated
After exploring Duxiu Peak, the guide leads you through an underground cave filled with carved images of historical figures and Ming Dynasty "fortune" characters. I found the guide's extensive talk about destiny and fortune-telling customs less interesting, but the history was fascinating. You then exit through a souvenir shop—standard tourist circuit procedure.
The final stop is the Imperial Examination Hall (贡院, Gòngyuàn). Despite being a frontier province, Guangxi produced numerous top scholars during China's imperial examination era. Here's where I encountered a tourist trap: visitors receive test papers and answer simple questions in small cubicles based on the guide's earlier explanations. Then two "winners" are selected to dress in scholar costumes for photos and certificates. The catch? By tradition, the selected winners must give the presenter a gift of money. Two teenagers were "randomly" chosen in my group—obviously staged. Their parents ended up paying 100 yuan each. My advice: enjoy the historical explanations, but skip the participation activities, even if advertised as free.
A performance reenacting the imperial examination process
After the guided portion, you're free to climb Duxiu Peak. At 66 meters from base to summit, it's an easy climb with stone steps. The summit features a "First Peak of Guilin" marker and offers panoramic views over the city.
The view from Duxiu Peak summit overlooking Guilin city
Guilin's downtown boasts Zhengyang Pedestrian Street, perfect for shopping and dining. I treated myself to the famous Li River Beer Fish (漓江啤酒鱼) here—a local specialty you shouldn't miss.
Zhengyang Pedestrian Street bustling with shops and restaurants
Li River Beer Fish—a must-try local delicacy
Near the pedestrian street lies a park featuring two pagodas called the Sun and Moon Twin Pagodas (日月双塔). I admired them from afar without entering—a lovely sight especially when illuminated at night.
The Sun and Moon Twin Pagodas reflecting in the lake
🎯 Day 1 Practical Info
Jingjiang Princes' City: ¥100 (~$14) entrance fee includes guided tour Best Time: Morning to avoid afternoon heat Warning: Skip the Imperial Examination "winning" participation—it's a money trap Dining: Try Li River Beer Fish on Zhengyang Pedestrian Street
Day 2: Dragon's Backbone and Ancient Engineering
The morning of day two took me to the spectacular Dragon's Backbone Rice Terraces (龙脊梯田, Lóngjǐ Tītián). Since I had a rental car and visitor numbers were low, I could drive directly into the scenic area. The terraces consist of several Zhuang ethnic villages, with Jinkeng Terraces (金坑梯田) being the most representative viewpoint.
The 23-kilometer drive from the entrance to Jinkeng takes about an hour on winding mountain roads—scenic but slow. Jinkeng is the only section with a cable car, whisking you up to Jinfo Peak viewpoint for breathtaking panoramic views of the terraced mountainsides.
The sweeping panorama of Dragon's Backbone Rice Terraces from Jinfo Peak
A closer look at the intricate terraced patterns carved into the mountains
Walking down from the summit to the parking area takes about 90 minutes, passing through Dazhai Village with its rustic guesthouses and family restaurants.
After leaving the terraces, I returned to Guilin city to visit the Guilin Museum. The building is quite new with impressive modern architecture. Exhibits cover Guilin's history, local ethnic minority customs, and gifts presented to the city by visiting international dignitaries.
The modern Guilin Museum building
Ancient gold coins on display
Calligraphy by Dr. Sun Yat-sen
🎯 Day 2 Practical Info
Dragon's Backbone Terraces: ¥80 (~$11) entrance fee Cable Car: ¥100 (~$14) round trip to Jinfo Peak Best Time: May (water-filled terraces) or October (golden harvest) Getting There: 2 hours from Guilin by car; tour buses available Guilin Museum: Free admission, closed Mondays
Day 3: Lingqu Canal and Arriving in Yangshuo
I spent the night in Xing'an County, and the next morning headed to the Lingqu Canal (灵渠, Líng Qú). This ancient hydraulic engineering marvel rivals Sichuan's Dujiangyan and stands as one of the world's oldest canals, completed in 214 BCE for military purposes during Emperor Qin Shi Huang's campaign to unify southern China.
Today's Lingqu Scenic Area is essentially a park preserving ancient waterworks structures alongside reconstructed buildings. I loved seeing local residents starting their day with morning exercises along the canal banks—a living connection to 2,200 years of history.
The ancient dam structure of Lingqu Canal
The Huazui (ploughshare) structure that divides the waters
Within the park stands Six Sages Temple, a courtyard complex honoring four historical figures who contributed to building the canal. In the temple courtyard, I discovered a remarkable sight called "Ancient Tree Swallowing Stele"—a 780-year-old Chongyang tree slowly engulfing a Qianlong Dynasty stone tablet, advancing 1 centimeter every three years!
Six Sages Temple honoring the canal's builders
The ancient tree slowly swallowing the stone tablet
Another important relic is the Doumen, or flash lock gates—these humble-looking structures functioned as boat locks over 1,000 years before modern lock systems were invented.
The ancient Doumen lock system—over 1,000 years old
Across from Lingqu's entrance sits the Xing'an County Museum, also serving as the Lingqu Exhibition Center with detailed explanations of the canal's history and engineering.
Leaving Lingqu, I drove to Yangshuo (阳朔, Yángshuò) County. It wasn't until the third day that I finally experienced the quintessential Li River scenery that makes Guilin famous worldwide.
The iconic view featured on China's 20 yuan banknote lies near Xingping Ancient Town (兴坪古镇) along the Li River. Several viewing platforms line this stretch of riverbank, offering the exact composition seen on the currency. Basic photography is free, though professional photographers charge 20 yuan per printed photo. Locals offer photo opportunities with cormorants on bamboo poles for 10 yuan—a classic tourist shot. Private parking lots surround the viewing areas, charging 20 yuan per vehicle with no time limit.
The karst peaks rising from the Li River—quintessential Guilin scenery
The exact view depicted on China's 20 yuan banknote
Xingping Ancient Town follows the familiar pattern of China's touristified old towns—commercialized streets with souvenir shops and restaurants. I took a quick stroll through but didn't linger.
A street in Xingping Ancient Town
From there I drove to Yinziyan (银子岩, Yínzi Yán), or Silver Cave, in Lipu County. This massive karst cave system features approximately 2 kilometers of developed pathways. Upon entry, you receive an audio guide that automatically activates at each formation.
Having visited several Chinese caves before, I found the experience familiar—as the guides say, "Three parts resemblance, seven parts imagination." Named formations include Buddha Preaching, Single Pillar Holding Heaven, and Mixed Origin Pearl Umbrella. While the cave stays cool in summer, the humidity is intense—I found it hard to breathe after extended time inside.
The entrance to Yinziyan (Silver Cave)
The illuminated formations inside the vast cave system
Intricate stalactite and stalagmite formations
🎯 Day 3 Practical Info
Lingqu Canal: ¥60 (~$8) entrance fee Best Time: Early morning to see locals exercising Xingping 20 Yuan Viewpoint: Free to view, ¥20 (~$3) for professional photos, ¥10 (~$1.40) for cormorant photos Yinziyan Cave: ¥65 (~$9), allow 2 hours for visit Tip: Wear non-slip shoes for the cave—paths can be wet and slippery
Day 4: The Symbol of Guilin
On my final morning, I visited Elephant Trunk Hill Park (象山景区, Xiàngshān Jǐngqū), home to Guilin's most famous landmark. Elephant Trunk Hill (象鼻山, Xiàngbí Shān) serves as the city's symbol, and the park feels like a large urban garden.
Entering from Gate 1, I first encountered the rear of the "elephant" with stone steps leading to the summit. Given the oppressive humidity, I skipped the climb.
Elephant Trunk Hill—Guilin's most iconic landmark
Crossing a metal footbridge brought me to a viewing platform offering the classic postcard view—the complete elephant shape with its trunk dipping into the water, the image that has represented Guilin for centuries.
🎯 Day 4 Practical Info
Elephant Trunk Hill: ¥55 (~$8) entrance fee Best View: From the viewing platform across the metal bridge Photography: Morning light is best for the classic view Time Needed: 1-2 hours
Quick Reference Guide
4-Day Itinerary Summary
Day 1: Arrival → Jingjiang Princes' City & Duxiu Peak → Zhengyang Pedestrian Street → Sun & Moon Twin Pagodas Day 2: Dragon's Backbone Rice Terraces → Guilin Museum Day 3: Lingqu Canal → Xingping Ancient Town & 20 Yuan Viewpoint → Yinziyan Cave → Arrive in Yangshuo Day 4: Elephant Trunk Hill → Departure
Budget Breakdown (Per Person)
Accommodation: ~500 RMB (~$70) for 3 nights Attractions: ~500 RMB (~$70) Food: ~300 RMB (~$42) Transportation: ~200 RMB (~$28)
Best Time to Visit
Spring (April-May): Pleasant weather, rice terraces filled with water Autumn (September-October): Golden harvest in the terraces, comfortable temperatures Avoid: July-August (hot and humid), Chinese public holidays (crowded)
Essential Tips
Rent a car if possible—gives flexibility for Dragon's Backbone Terraces and Lingqu Canal Skip the Imperial Examination "winning" participation at Jingjiang Princes' City Bring cash for rural areas—some places don't accept mobile payments Download translation apps—English isn't widely spoken outside tourist areas Wear comfortable walking shoes with good grip for cave and mountain visits