I spent four incredible days exploring Guilin and Yangshuo in the height of summer, where limestone karst peaks rise like dragon's teeth from the emerald waters of the Li River. From slurping authentic rice noodles at local hole-in-the-wall shops to drifting past the famous Nine Horse Fresco Hill on a lazy river cruise, every moment revealed why this region has inspired Chinese poets for millennia. I got lost in ancient alleyways, sampled mysterious Gongcheng oil tea that locals swear by, and learned which tourist traps to skip. This journey through Guangxi's crown jewels offers the perfect mix of iconic scenery and authentic local experiences—just don't expect to escape the summer heat!
Trip Overview
When: Late July (Summer)
Duration: 4 days
Travelers: With friends
Budget: ~1,800 RMB (~$250 USD) per person
Transportation: Taxi + Electric scooter + Li River cruise
Day 1: Arrival in Guilin – Noodles, Old Streets, and Night Views
When I arrived in Guilin on a steamy July afternoon, the first thing on my mind was food. A local friend had told me that no visit to Guilin is complete without trying the famous Guilin Mifen (桂林米粉) – rice noodles that are the heart and soul of local cuisine. I headed straight to Lao Dongjiang Mifen (老东江米粉), a beloved local spot that tourists rarely find. The noodles came with savory braised meat toppings, and I was surprised by how different they tasted from the instant versions I'd tried back home. My friend also convinced me to try the Luosifen (螺蛳粉) – river snail rice noodles famous throughout Guangxi. Unlike the pungent packaged versions, the fresh bowl here was surprisingly mild and deeply flavorful.
After checking into my hotel – the cozy Dongxiang Xiaoyuan Boutique Inn (东巷小院精品客栈) near the Two Rivers and Four Lakes area – I ventured out to explore. The hotel was perfect: warm decor, comfortable beds, and a location that put everything within walking distance.
🏨 Accommodation Tip
Dongxiang Xiaoyuan Boutique Inn (东巷小院精品客栈)
Location: Two Rivers and Four Lakes area (两江四湖店)
Why I loved it: Cozy rooms, great location, very comfortable beds
My first stop was Dongxi Alley (东西巷), a restored historic district near the city center. As I wandered through the stone-paved lanes, I admired the traditional architecture that now housed modern cafes and souvenir shops. Nearby, I strolled past the entrance to the Duxiu Peak (独秀峰) – part of the ancient Prince's Palace complex – admiring the imposing stone gateway without paying the steep entrance fee.
For a classic Guilin photo opportunity, I made my way to the Elephant Trunk Hill (象山景区). Instead of paying the full park entrance fee, I discovered that Gate 2 offers a small viewing area where you can still capture that iconic shot of the elephant-shaped limestone formation dipping its "trunk" into the river. If you want the best view with dinner, locals recommended the Jingxiang Restaurant – you can enjoy a meal while overlooking the complete Elephant Trunk Hill panorama.
On my walk, I stumbled upon Xu Ayi's Dessert Shop (徐阿姨甜品), a tiny local spot that became my favorite discovery of the day. The desserts were delicious, incredibly cheap, and authentically local. Next door, a traditional market bustled with activity – vendors selling fresh produce, live seafood in buckets, and locals haggling over prices. It was the perfect slice of everyday Guilin life.
For dinner, I tried A Gan Restaurant (阿甘酒家), a popular local chain. The pickled radish stir-fried with pig organs was surprisingly delicious – tangy and crunchy with just the right amount of heat. The roast goose was decent, though I made a mental note to save my goose expectations for the famous Chunji Roast Goose later in the trip. The steamed taro with cured pork was comforting, though again, I suspected I'd find an even better version soon.
As night fell, I walked through Zhengyang Pedestrian Street (正阳步行街), the city's main shopping corridor, toward the lakes. The Sun and Moon Twin Pagodas (日月双塔) were spectacular when illuminated against the dark water – golden reflections shimmering on the surface. I continued along the interconnected lake system: Shan Lake, Rong Lake, Gui Lake, and finally Mulong Lake. The evening breeze made the heat bearable, and the lit-up pagodas and bridges created a magical atmosphere that felt worlds away from the daytime chaos.
Before heading back, I grabbed a bowl of Qingbuliang (清补凉) – a refreshing sweet soup with various toppings that's perfect for cooling down on a summer night.
Day 2: The Li River Cruise to Yangshuo
I woke up early and headed to Haitian Changfen (海天肠粉) for breakfast. To be honest, after living in Shenzhen and visiting Chaoshan, I've had better rice noodle rolls. These were fine but nothing special – I'd recommend saving your stomach space for other delicacies instead.
The highlight of the day was the three-star Li River cruise from Mopanshan Wharf in Guilin to Yangshuo. I'd booked tickets through my hotel, and they arranged a taxi to the dock. As the boat pulled away from the shore, I understood immediately why this journey is considered one of the most scenic river cruises in the world.
For four hours, the boat glided through a landscape that seemed surreal – endless limestone karst peaks rising dramatically from the green water, their shapes changing with every bend of the river. I recognized the famous Nine Horse Fresco Hill (九马画山), where local legend says you can spot nine horses hidden in the cliff face (I only found five, but maybe you'll do better). Then came the moment I'd been waiting for: passing the exact spot featured on the 20 RMB banknote. Everyone rushed to the deck to capture their own version of that iconic view.
🎯 Practical Info – Li River Cruise
Route: Mopanshan Wharf (Guilin) → Yangshuo (~4 hours) Class: Three-star cruise (comfortable, good value) Book: Through your hotel or online in advance Pro Tip: Sit on the upper deck for best views
Upon arriving in Yangshuo, I checked into the Spring Blossoms Inn (春暖花开客栈) near West Street. I have to be honest – I wouldn't recommend this place. The hotel was under renovation, and construction noise started at 8 AM sharp. Being on a busy street with only double-glazed windows meant traffic noise filtered through all night. To make matters worse, the hallway was poorly soundproofed, so every conversation echoed into my room. When the upstairs guests used water, it sounded like a waterfall was crashing through my ceiling. If you're a light sleeper like me, look elsewhere.
After settling in, I explored Yangshuo town and grabbed lunch at a local rice noodle shop called "On the Tip of the Tongue" Mifen. It was fine but unremarkable – the kind of place that fills your stomach without memorable flavors.
The afternoon activity was Guilin Eternal Love (桂林千古情), a large-scale theatrical performance that combines music, dance, and acrobatics to tell stories of local culture and history. Ticket prices fluctuate wildly – definitely ask your hotel owner about current rates rather than buying at the door. The show was entertaining, though if you've seen other Songcheng performances in China, you'll notice familiar patterns.
Dinner at Wangjiang Restaurant (望江楼餐吧) made up for any disappointments of the day. This place is worth seeking out! The baked sweet potato with cheese was addictive – I could have eaten it as a dessert or main course, and kids would absolutely love it. The braised pork belly with secret sauce paired perfectly with local beer, each bite more flavorful than the last. But the standout was the tomato chicken hot pot – a tangy, slightly spicy, ginger-infused broth with incredibly fresh chicken. The combination sounded unusual, but it worked brilliantly.
Day 3: Electric Scooter Adventures and Silver Cave
For breakfast, I tried duck noodles – a refreshing change after days of rice noodles. The clear broth and roasted duck leg hit the spot, though I have to admit I was starting to crave something other than noodles by this point!
Today was scooter day! I rented an electric scooter from a shop near West Street – make sure to get the most powerful model (72V) for the hilly terrain. I bargained them down from 50 RMB to 40 RMB for the day.
🛵 Scooter Rental Tips
Get the 72V model: More power for hills Negotiate: Starting price 50 RMB/day, aim for 40 RMB Bring ID: Usually required as deposit Sun protection: Essential in summer!
I rode out to the Ten Mile Gallery (十里画廊), a scenic road flanked by karst peaks. To be completely honest, I found it underwhelming compared to the Li River views. It's essentially a road with some nice scenery on both sides, but the countless small attractions along the way all charge entrance fees, and none seemed worth the cost. I opted to just enjoy the ride without entering any paid sites.
Continuing along, I reached Gongnong Bridge (工农桥), where the stunning Yulong River (遇龙河) came into view. This smaller tributary is often called the "Little Li River" and has a more peaceful, pastoral charm. Further along the road, I spotted Moon Hill (月亮山) – a peak with a natural archway that resembles a crescent moon. Rather than paying to climb it, I admired the view from the roadside where you can clearly see the moon-shaped opening.
I continued riding past the Ruyi Peak cable car station (another paid attraction I skipped) all the way to Silver Cave (银子岩). This massive limestone cave system was one attraction I did pay for, and it was worth it! Book tickets in advance through your hotel or scooter rental shop for 50 RMB instead of the 65 RMB gate price.
🎯 Silver Cave (银子岩) Info
Entrance: ¥50 with advance booking (~$7), ¥65 at gate (~$9) Duration: 1-1.5 hours walk through Highlights: Massive stalactites, underground pools, colorful lighting Book through: Hotel or rental shop
The cave was impressive – vast chambers filled with stalactites, stalagmites, and underground pools, dramatically lit in various colors. The "snow mountain" formation and the "music stone" that produces different tones when struck were highlights. After the cave, I rode back to Yangshuo, returned the scooter, and grabbed lunch at Xie Da Jie's Beer Fish (谢大姐啤酒鱼). Beer fish is Yangshuo's signature dish, and while this ubiquitous chain served a decent version, it wasn't the mind-blowing experience I'd hoped for.
Afternoon rain forced me indoors for a rest – actually a welcome break from the heat. For dinner, I found a real gem called You Chi You He (有吃有喝), a restaurant packed with locals rather than tourists. The snail-stuffed pork (田螺酿) was absolutely outstanding – a local specialty where snail meat is mixed with pork and herbs, then stuffed back into the shells. The beer duck was tasty but reminded me more of dry pot duck than anything uniquely special. The蓑衣蛋 (fried eggs in sweet and sour sauce) were deliciously addictive, and the pickled beans with small fish made perfect drinking snacks.
After dinner, I wandered through West Street (西街), which transforms at night into a lively strip of bars, cafes, and shops. The bar scene was energetic, with live music spilling onto the street. If you're looking for nightlife, this is the place to be.
I changed hotels tonight to the Yishuiwan Resort (阳朔依水湾度假酒店) in a riverside balcony family suite. I can't recommend this place either – the location was inconveniently far from town, and I was assigned a room facing away from the river with no view at all. The furniture felt damp and slightly moldy, and the bathroom door was literally missing half its panel! Skip this one.
Day 4: Yulong River Morning and Final Feasts
For my final breakfast in Yangshuo, I couldn't resist one more bowl of luosifen and rice noodles – when in Guangxi, right? But I also tried something new: Gongcheng Oil Tea (恭城油茶), a traditional beverage I'd been curious about. The preparation was fascinating – the server first placed puffed rice, crispy fried dough bits, peanuts, and toasted grains in my bowl, then poured over a hot tea broth made by boiling tea leaves with ginger. You're supposed to add a pinch of salt to taste before drinking.
The first sip was surprising – slightly bitter from the tea, warm from the ginger, with interesting textures from the crunchy toppings. By the end of the bowl, I'd developed an appreciation for this acquired taste that locals swear by for digestion and health.
I rented another electric scooter for the morning and headed back toward the Yulong River area. This time I explored the riverside paths more slowly, finding stretches where you can actually walk along the riverbank. Ask locals for directions to the pedestrian sections – they're peaceful spots away from the main road where you can really soak in the rural beauty.
For my final Yangshuo meal, I splurged at Chunji Roast Goose (椿记烧鹅), and oh my goodness, it was worth every yuan! This place deserves all the hype. The roast goose was perfection – crispy skin, tender meat, and that savory glaze. But everything else shocked me with how good it was: the goose and snail stir-fry, the oil tea black tofu, and especially the steamed taro with cured pork – this was the version I'd been waiting for, creamy and fragrant and utterly delicious.
Before leaving, I found a riverside café where I sipped coffee while watching the Yulong River drift by. There's something magical about these lazy afternoons in Yangshuo – time slows down, the karst peaks frame every view like a painting, and you understand why artists have flocked here for generations.
My Honest Tips & Recommendations
🎭 Shows & Entertainment
Guilin Eternal Love (千古情) vs. Impression Liu Sanjie (印象刘三姐): I skipped Impression Liu Sanjie, but my friend saw both and confirmed what locals say – Eternal Love is more accessible and entertaining, while Liu Sanjie is more abstract and "artistic" (read: potentially confusing if you don't know the cultural context). However, if you've seen other Songcheng performances across China, Eternal Love will feel familiar.
Ruyi Peak (如意峰): This attraction features cable cars and glass walkways with panoramic views. It's pricey and a bit touristy, but if you have time and money to spare, the views are genuinely impressive.
Adventure activities: Yangshuo offers hot air balloon rides and paragliding if you want an adrenaline rush with your scenery.
🎫 Skip These (Save Your Money)
Guilin's entrance fees are shockingly expensive, and honestly, many aren't worth it:
Elephant Trunk Hill Park: Just view it from outside Gate 2 or have dinner at Jingxiang Restaurant Prince's Palace & Duxiu Peak: Expensive and reconstructed – the exterior views are enough Ten Mile Gallery attractions: All overpriced and underwhelming – enjoy the free scenery from your scooter
🍜 Where to Eat
Guilin has better and cheaper street food than Yangshuo! Load up on snacks before heading south.
✅ My Top Restaurant Picks
Lao Dongjiang Mifen (老东江米粉): Best authentic Guilin rice noodles Xu Ayi's Dessert (徐阿姨甜品): Cheap, delicious local desserts A Gan Restaurant (阿甘酒家): Solid local dishes, try the pickled radish stir-fry Wangjiang Restaurant (望江楼餐吧): Must-try in Yangshuo – tomato chicken hot pot! You Chi You He (有吃有喝): Authentic local spot, amazing snail-stuffed pork Chunji Roast Goose (椿记烧鹅): Worth the hype – everything is delicious
🛍️ Souvenirs & Shopping
Don't bother buying souvenirs locally – everything is available on Taobao at better prices. The "local" fruits aren't actually grown here either. The only exception is huangpiguo (黄皮果) – a small yellow fruit with a unique sweet-sour flavor. Try some while you're here, though I wouldn't bother carrying them home.
🌟 Don't Miss
Yulong River bamboo rafting: The traditional hand-poled rafts offer a peaceful, authentic experience with gorgeous scenery Sunset at the lakes: The Twin Pagodas at night are genuinely magical Local markets: Wander through for a glimpse of real daily life