I spent three unforgettable days rediscovering Beijing during the 2021 Spring Festival, returning to a city I first visited forty years ago as a wide-eyed student. From watching traditional crosstalk at Lao She Teahouse and exploring the historic Prince Gong's Mansion to wandering through Dongjiaomin Lane's former embassy district and experiencing a spectacular Peking Opera performance, this journey bridged my past memories with Beijing's present.
Trip Overview
When: Spring Festival (February)
Duration: 3 days
Travelers: Solo
Budget: ~40 RMB (~$6 USD) per day
Transportation: Subway + Bus + Bicycle
Day 3: Xidan, Tiananmen Square, and Lao She Teahouse
When I first arrived in Beijing on September 6, 1982, at 6 AM at Beijing Railway Station (Běijīng Zhàn), I was overwhelmed with excitement. Forty years have passed since then, and my affection for this city has only deepened. During my student years, I explored every corner of Beijing—from walking from Jianguomen to Fuchengmen to cycling through the hutongs of Xuanwumen and Guanganmen. Back then, Beijing was much smaller; beyond Xizhimen lay farmland.
I used to visit Tiananmen Square, the Summer Palace (Yíhéyuán), the Forbidden City (Gùgōng), the Temple of Heaven (Tiāntán), and many other landmarks regularly. But the most precious memory was visiting Chairman Mao's Mausoleum when it first opened—something impossible to do now due to the long queues.
During the Spring Festival, I wanted to revisit these familiar places. I had hoped to see the Summer Palace and Temple of Heaven, but couldn't get tickets.
The weather on the third day of the Lunar New Year wasn't great—drizzling rain and fog covered the city. I took the subway to Xidan (Xīdān), an area I frequented in my youth for shopping at the Xidan Department Store. I still remember buying my first cassette recorder there for 140 yuan—a fortune at the time. The streets and buildings have completely transformed, as have Wangfujing (Wángfǔjǐng), Qianmen Street (Qiánmén Dàjiē), and Dashilan (Dàzhàlán). Much of old Beijing has disappeared, leaving only names behind.
Walking along Chang'an Avenue (Cháng'ān Jiē) toward Tiananmen, I noticed how much security has tightened. Where we once walked freely now requires multiple security checks. I passed Xinhua Gate (Xīnhuá Mén) and entered Tiananmen Square—surprisingly uncrowded, a rare sight. Chairman Mao's Mausoleum (Máo Zhǔxí Jìniàntáng) was open with few visitors. I noticed the wooden walkways covering the green belt areas in the square—practical and aesthetically pleasing.
🎯 Practical Info: Tiananmen Square
Entry: Free, but bring ID/passport Security: Multiple checkpoints with bag checks Best Time: Early morning for fewer crowds Access: Subway Line 1 to Tiananmen East or West Station
After crossing the square, I reached Qianmen West Street. For lunch, I headed to Lao She Teahouse (Lǎo Shě Cháguǎn) to enjoy some crosstalk (xiàngsheng)—a perfect way to celebrate the holiday with laughter. The performance by young artists from the Beijing Quyi Troupe included Sun Guosong's kuaiban (rhythmic storytelling with bamboo clappers) and four crosstalk segments. While the atmosphere wasn't electric, there were constant chuckles—a wonderful way to embrace the festive spirit. The show lasted an hour and a half, with my ticket being the cheapest at 120 yuan.
🎭 Practical Info: Lao She Teahouse
Location: 3 Qianmen West Street, Qianmen Tickets: 120-280 RMB (~$17-40 USD) Show Duration: ~90 minutes Tip: Book in advance, especially during holidays
After the show, I walked through the newly constructed Beijing Fun (Běijīng Fāng) and arrived at Dashilan, bustling with visitors. I checked Sanqing Garden (Sānqìng Yuán) and Guangde Building (Guǎngdé Lóu) for performances, but found no announcements, so I took Bus 5 home.
Day 4: Prince Gong's Mansion, Shichahai, and Lao She's Former Residence
The fourth day dawned clear and beautiful—blue skies and sunshine perfect for exploration. I planned to visit Prince Gong's Mansion (Gōngwáng Fǔ), which hadn't been open to the public in the 1980s when I lived here. I purchased tickets online for 40 yuan and entered using my ID card.
The reconstructed buildings lacked the charm of traditional brick-and-wood structures, but the garden was magnificent—rockeries, water features, lakes, bamboo groves, pavilions, and towers. I was particularly drawn to the fantastically shaped stones that sparked endless imagination—looking like whatever came to mind. I spent forty-five minutes exploring and found it worthwhile overall.
🏛️ Practical Info: Prince Gong's Mansion
Entry Fee: 40 RMB (~$6 USD) Tickets: Book online, enter with ID Highlights: Garden with rockeries, lake, traditional architecture Duration: 1-2 hours
Leaving Prince Gong's Mansion, I walked to Shichahai (Shíchàhǎi) by the Back Lake (Hòuhǎi). The scenery was beautiful despite the lake being frozen—still attracting many visitors. I had hoped to visit Soong Ching-ling's Former Residence (Sòng Qìnglíng Gùjū), but discovered it was closed that day. I returned on the 24th and found it wonderfully preserved.
Instead, I cycled to Lao She's Former Residence (Lǎo Shě Gùjū). Lao She was a great writer whose works brimmed with local Beijing flavor. I've read many of his novels and loved "Four Generations Under One Roof" (Sìshì Tóngtáng), "Rickshaw Boy" (Luòtuo Xiángzi), and "Beneath the Red Banner" (Zhèng Hóng Qíxià). My first exposure to his work was "Dragon Beard Ditch" (Lóngxū Gōu). Visiting today felt like paying tribute to this literary giant.
📚 Practical Info: Lao She's Former Residence
Entry: Free Location: 19 Fengsheng Lane, Xicheng District Highlights: Former home of renowned writer Lao She Access: Walk or cycle from Shichahai
Leaving Lao She's Former Residence, I walked through Wangfujing Street, where the Spring Festival atmosphere was thick. I saw a traditional "pulling foreign film" (lā yángpiàn) show and wondered if anyone still appreciated this ancient art. A sugar figurine blower was charging 35 yuan per piece—quite steep. I took Subway Line 1 home.
Day 5: Dongjiaomin Lane, Dongdan Park, and Peking Opera
The fifth day brought strong winds, but I had tickets for the afternoon performance at Chang'an Grand Theatre (Cháng'ān Dàxìyuàn) and wanted to explore beforehand.
I took the subway to Qianmen, passed through security, and arrived at Dongjiaomin Lane (Dōngjiāomín Xiàng). This 1,550-meter lane is Beijing's longest remaining hutong and once housed the old embassy district. From 1840 onward, especially after the Boxer Protocol, Britain, France, America, Russia, Japan, Germany, and Belgium established embassies here—a witness to China's "century of humiliation." When the PLA entered Beijing in 1949, Mao specifically arranged for them to pass through this lane to demonstrate contempt for foreign aggression.
Today, remnants remain including the Six Nations Hotel, Belgian Embassy, French Embassy, French Post Office, Citibank Beijing Branch, and Yokohama Specie Bank Beijing Branch.
🏛️ Practical Info: Dongjiaomin Lane
Entry: Free Length: 1,550 meters—Beijing's longest hutong History: Former embassy district from late Qing Dynasty Access: Subway to Qianmen, walk east
Leaving Dongjiaomin Lane, I reached Dongdan Park (Dōngdān Gōngyuán), built in 1955 with calligraphy by literary giant Guo Moruo. The park features a workers, peasants, and soldiers sculpture. A young man around thirty asked me who the three figures were—a question that made me wonder about our education system.
The artificial hills were lovely, densely wooded with a hexagonal double-eaved glazed tile pavilion. The winding paths created an atmosphere of seclusion despite the park's small size.
I found lunch near Dongdan, then visited No. 75 Dongtangzi Hutong to photograph Cai Yuanpei's Former Residence (Cài Yuánpéi Gùjū). Cai was a great modern educator, revolutionary, and statesman who served as president of Peking University from 1917-1920.
After photos, I walked east along Foreign Ministry Street, passing the Peking Union Medical College Hospital residential area. The environment still looks excellent even by today's standards. Further on, I saw the entrance to the State Guesthouse where Sun Yat-sen once stayed, later used by the Foreign Ministry after liberation.
Finally, I arrived at Chang'an Grand Theatre. The original location was at the Xidan intersection, where I watched performances in the 1980s. Today's theatre is magnificent and luxurious with excellent facilities.
At 2 PM, the Beijing Peking Opera Company Youth Troupe performed "Youlong Xifeng" (The Wandering Dragon Toys with the Phoenix) and "Gaoliang Ganshui" (Gao Liang Chasing Water). "Youlong Xifeng" starred Zhang Kai as Emperor Zhengde and Zhu Hong as Li Fengjie—well performed. But I was most excited for "Gaoliang Ganshui," a rarely performed piece written by playwright Weng Ou. The story tells how Liu Bowen supervised Beijing's construction when the Black Dragon Pond Dragon King caused trouble, disguised as a hunchbacked old man, draining all wells. Liu sent Gao Liang to recover the water, leading to a dramatic battle. The opera featured excellent martial arts and acrobatics. My ticket cost 480 yuan for good seats, and the 2.5-hour performance left me thoroughly satisfied.
🎭 Practical Info: Chang'an Grand Theatre
Location: Jianguomennei Avenue, Dongcheng District Tickets: 120-480 RMB (~$17-70 USD) Show Duration: 2-3 hours Tip: Book online in advance; English subtitles sometimes available
After the performance, I took Subway Line 2 from Jianguomen home.
Day 6: Beihai Park and Jingshan Park Photography
On the sixth day, I planned to photograph Beihai Park (Běihǎi Gōngyuán) and Jingshan Park (Jǐngshān Gōngyuán)—places I've visited countless times. Despite some wind, the weather was good with blue skies perfect for photography.
After lunch, I took the subway to Beihai Park and Tuan City (Tuánchéng) to capture some shots. I still remember the delicious steamed buns sold from state-run mobile carts when I first visited in 1982—1 yuan for a jin (500g), buying 3 liang each time. After the state cafeterias dissolved, I never saw them again.
Today's biggest reward was photographing the newly opened Painted Boat Studio (Huàfǎng Zhāi) and Haopu Creek (Háopǔ Jiān).
🏞️ Practical Info: Beihai Park
Entry Fee: 10 RMB (~$1.50 USD); 5 RMB off-season Tuan City: Separate ticket required Highlights: White Dagoba, Nine-Dragon Wall, Painted Boat Studio Best Time: Morning or late afternoon for photography
Leaving Tuan City, I came to the Corner Tower (Jiǎolóu) of the Forbidden City to capture sunset shots. Many photographers come here for golden hour photos. Though sunset was over an hour away, enthusiasts were already claiming prime positions.
From the Corner Tower to the Gate of Divine Might (Shénwǔ Mén), I entered Jingshan Park—primarily for photography. I've been here many times and plan to return when the flowers bloom.
🏔️ Practical Info: Jingshan Park
Entry Fee: 2 RMB (~$0.30 USD) Highlights: Pavilion of Everlasting Spring, panoramic Forbidden City views Best For: Sunset photography over Forbidden City Tip: Arrive early for good sunset spots
Exiting Jingshan Park, I walked to Xihuamen and took Bus 5 home.
Quick Reference Guide
Must-See Attractions
Tiananmen Square: Bring ID; expect security checks Prince Gong's Mansion: Book online; don't miss the garden Dongjiaomin Lane: Historic hutong with embassy architecture Beihai Park: Combine with Tuan City; photography paradise Jingshan Park: Best panoramic Forbidden City views
Cultural Experiences
Lao She Teahouse: Traditional crosstalk performances Chang'an Grand Theatre: Authentic Peking Opera Lao She's Former Residence: Literary heritage site
Getting Around
Subway: Most efficient; Lines 1, 2 cover major sights Bus: Bus 5 connects Qianmen, Jingshan, and hutongs Bicycle: Great for exploring Shichahai area Walking: Wear comfortable shoes—lots of ground to cover
Budget Tips
Many attractions cost under 50 RMB (~$7 USD) Subway: 3-7 RMB per ride depending on distance Street food vs. restaurants: Save by eating local Cultural performances: 120-480 RMB depending on seats
Written by Da Song Wanjun, February 17, 2021