I joined a convoy of 100 cars on an unforgettable self-drive journey to Baiyun Mountain (Baiyunshan), a mystical peak in Henan's Song County that remains one of China's best-kept secrets. From navigating hairpin mountain roads and breathing the world's purest air in the Forest Oxygen Bar, to witnessing spectacular sunrises above a sea of clouds at Jade Emperor Peak and standing before thundering waterfalls in the Nine Dragons Gorge—this journey revealed a landscape so breathtaking it earned the title 'China's Most Beautiful Place.' If you're seeking dramatic mountain scenery, pristine nature, and genuine off-the-beaten-path adventure, Baiyun Mountain delivers experiences that rival any famous Chinese landmark.
Trip Overview
When: Mid-April 2006
Duration: 5 days
Travelers: With friends (100-car convoy)
Destination: Song County, Luoyang, Henan Province
Transportation: Self-drive convoy
Trip Type: Organized group adventure
Day 1: The Mountain Ascent
When our convoy of 100 vehicles set off toward Baiyun Mountain on that April afternoon in 2006, I had no idea I was about to experience one of China's most extraordinary natural wonders. The journey began after wrapping up our previous adventure at Tianchi Mountain, and the energy in the air was electric—200 fellow travelers united by the promise of discovery.
The mountain road revealed itself as a serpentine challenge, with hairpin turns that demanded our full attention. Our two-way radios fell silent—the usual banter replaced by focused concentration as we navigated the steep ascent. I found myself gripping the steering wheel tighter with each switchback, watching the convoy snake upward through tunnels carved directly into the mountainside.
As we climbed higher, the landscape transformed. Baiyun Mountain National Forest Park (Baiyunshan Guojia Senlin Gongyuan) spans an impressive elevation range and represents Song County's premier development project. Since 2004, local authorities invested over 200 million yuan to transform this area into a world-class destination—and the results were immediately apparent.
🏆 About Baiyun Mountain
Recognition: Named "China's Most Beautiful Place" in national competitions Awards: "Henan's Most Beautiful Scenic Area" (Ranked #1) Rating: AAAA National Tourist Attraction Investment: Over 200 million yuan in recent development Known For: "Water hanging in air, clouds floating between mountains, birds singing in forests, people walking in paintings"
Crossing the mountain gate felt like entering another world. Our first stop was the legendary Forest Oxygen Bar (Senlin Yangba)—a 70,000-mu forest sanctuary that immediately overwhelmed my senses. According to Chinese Academy of Sciences measurements, one acre of these pine forests generates 49 kilograms of oxygen daily. The air contains 73,000 negative oxygen ions per cubic centimeter—3,650 times more than urban public spaces and 1,450 times more than typical indoor environments.
I couldn't help but take deep, deliberate breaths, filling my lungs with what felt like pure vitality. The pine fragrance, released through photosynthesis, carried subtle therapeutic properties—perfect for recovery from travel fatigue and mental exhaustion. Nearby, the Alpine Peony Garden (Gaoshan Mudan Yuan) showcased another Baiyun Mountain marvel.
🌸 Alpine Peony Garden Facts
Elevation: 1,530 meters—China's highest peony garden Area: 168 mu (11.2 hectares) Varieties: 156 alpine peony cultivars Plant Count: 56,000 peonies Bloom Season: May to August ("Luoyang peonies fade, mountain flowers just begin to bloom") Investment: 3.3 million yuan
Though we arrived too early for peak bloom season, learning about this engineering marvel—where gardeners protect roots with soil and medicine while wrapping stems in straw against -20°C winters—gave me profound respect for human determination.
A short walk brought us to Liuhou Temple (Liuhou Ci), the former hermitage of Han Dynasty strategist Zhang Liang. Nestled beside Baiyun Lake, this reconstructed complex covers 80 mu with traditional architecture including the Moon Imprinting Pavilion and Fishing Terrace. Standing there, surrounded by ancient trees and shimmering water, I could understand why a brilliant statesman would choose this sanctuary.
Baiyun Lake itself, constructed in 1997 with a 170,000-cubic-meter capacity, creates a mirror-like surface reflecting the surrounding peaks. Below it lies Qing Mountain Lake, and together these twin jewels form over 500 meters of open water—functioning as both scenic centerpiece and practical reservoir for downstream waterfalls.
We spent the late afternoon boating on these pristine waters. Colorful waterbirds darted across the surface while fish and tadpoles swam beneath our vessel. With no urban noise—only blue sky, white clouds, green mountains, and crystal water—I felt my accumulated stress dissolve completely.
As darkness fell, the temperature plummeted dramatically. Despite being mid-April, the mountain nights were freezing. Our accommodation at Baiyun Mountain Villa (Baiyun Shanzhuang) provided extra blankets, but I still felt the cold bite—a small price for experiencing Baiyun Mountain's famous summer retreat climate. The evening concluded with a vibrant bonfire party, complete with traditional ethnic dance performances that lifted everyone's spirits despite the chill.
Day 2: Sunrise Above the Clouds
At 3:00 AM, the most dedicated among us gathered for the trek to Yuhuangding (Yuhuangding)—the Jade Emperor Peak. Standing at 2,216 meters, this is the highest point in central China, named for its crown-like summit that seems to touch heaven itself. The 3,000-step climb took about 40 minutes one way, each step bringing us closer to something extraordinary.
When the sun finally broke over the distant horizon, I understood why people make this pilgrimage. Standing atop the "Central Plains Summit," I could see across three prefectures and six counties—from Lushan County in Pingdingshan to Nanzhao, Neixiang, and Xixia counties in Nanyang, plus Luanchuan and Song counties stretching westward.
The sea of clouds was perhaps even more spectacular. As the ancient poet Tao Hongjing wrote: "What does the mountain hold? Many white clouds upon the ridges." Baiyun Mountain sits at the transition zone between subtropical and warm temperate climates, surrounded by 40,000 mu of primeval forest. The resulting microclimate produces extraordinary cloud formations—half the year, these peaks are shrouded in mist.
☁️ The Cloud Experience
Climate: Transition zone between subtropical and warm temperate Forest Cover: 40,000 mu of primeval forest Cloud Coverage: 6+ months annually Characteristics: Pure, water-washed clouds unlike urban pollution Phenomenon: Waves of mist rising from valleys like ocean tides
These weren't ordinary city clouds—they were water-washed and pollution-free, rising from valley floors like ocean tides, sometimes revealing peaks like islands in a vast white sea, then moments later engulfing everything in pure white mystery. The transformation happened in minutes: turbulent waves becoming gentle ripples, then suddenly clearing to reveal red morning light painting the sky.
The Nine Dragons Waterfall
No visit to Baiyun Mountain is complete without experiencing the Jiulong Waterfall Scenic Area (Jiulong Pubu). We had two route options: hike 1.5 kilometers through Jiulong Grand Canyon to reach the upper falls, or take transportation directly to Jiulong Parking Lot. Most visitors choose the latter to conserve energy, but I couldn't resist walking at least part of the canyon.
Jiulong Grand Canyon serves as the source of the Bai River, a tributary of the Han River in the Yangtze watershed. Stretching over 3,000 meters with a 130-meter elevation drop, the canyon features Black Dragon Pond (Heilong Tan), Yellow Dragon Well (Huanglong Jing), White Dragon Pond (Bailong Tan), Pearl Pond (Zhenzhu Tan), White Dragon Waterfall (Bailong Pubu), and the magnificent Jiulong Waterfall (Jiulong Pubu).
Two paths descend to the valley floor: the inner route with over 2,000 steps through mountain tunnels, or the outer route with 1,000+ open-air steps. A sky bridge connects them mid-canyon. I chose the tunnel route, emerging to find the spectacular "White Dragon Collision" (Bailong Zhuang) waterfall—its 80-meter cascade thundering down with the force of thunder.
But the true masterpiece awaited below: Jiulong Waterfall itself. Dropping 130 meters across a 6-meter width, the falls feature nine natural rock striations resembling dragons. When sunlight hits the mist, rainbows arch across the canyon—an absolutely breathtaking phenomenon that draws visitors from across China and beyond.
🌊 Nine Dragons Waterfall Details
Height: 130 meters Width: 6 meters Unique Feature: Nine natural rock striations resembling dragons Special Phenomenon: Rainbow formations in the mist Recognition: "One of the world's most spectacular natural landscapes" Alternative Return: Cable car available (800m length, 246m elevation change)
For those unwilling to climb back up, the Jiulong Waterfall Cable Car offers salvation. As Luoyang's first alpine sightseeing cableway, this 8-million-yuan investment provides 50 gondolas soaring 246 meters above the canyon floor—a perspective that reveals the grand scale of this natural wonder.
Day 3: County Town and Luhun Lake
After lunch on the second day, our convoy departed Baiyun Mountain, making a spectacular procession through Song County town. Residents lined the streets, watching with curiosity and excitement as 100 vehicles passed through—a rare spectacle in this mountain community.
That evening, we settled in at hotels along Luhun Lake (Luhun Hu)—another of Song County's premier attractions. Centered on the Luhun Reservoir, this scenic area encompasses the lakeside town, Two Cheng's Hometown (Liangcheng Guli), Yi Yin's Hometown, and Jianggong Temple tourism zone. Combining rich cultural heritage with natural beauty, Luhun Lake ranks among Luoyang's top ten scenic areas.
🏛️ Cultural Highlights Around Luhun Lake
Two Cheng's Hometown (Liangcheng Guli): Birthplace of Song Dynasty Neo-Confucian philosophers Cheng Hao and Cheng Yi Yi Yin's Hometown: Birthplace of Shang Dynasty prime minister Yi Yin Yangshao Culture Site: Ancient civilization dating back millennia Pugou Grottoes: Ancient Buddhist cave temples
The Journey Home
On April 17th, our adventure drew to a close. The return journey brought our convoy's two-way radios back to life with cheerful banter. As always with these self-drive excursions, we'd progressed from radio voices to personal friendships—a transformation that happens naturally when people share experiences on the road.
I fondly remember our team's "Big Tiger" and "Little Tiger"—two Land Rover-driving women who embraced the nicknames derived from their vehicles. It's these spontaneous connections, forged through shared adventure, that make convoy travel so special.
At the Yuanshi Service Area on the Beijing-Zhuhai Expressway, we gathered for one final group photo before saying warm goodbyes. Many first-time participants, inspired by this journey, joined the 974 Car Lovers Club upon returning home. As for me, I carried home memories of cloud seas and waterfalls, ancient temples and pristine lakes—a "Hundred Cars Treading White Clouds" adventure that will stay with me forever.
Quick Reference Guide
Must-See Attractions
Forest Oxygen Bar: 73,000 negative ions/cc—world's purest air Alpine Peony Garden: China's highest peony garden (1,530m), best May-August Yuhuangding: 2,216m summit for sunrise and cloud sea viewing Jiulong Waterfall: 130m falls with rainbow phenomenon Liuhou Temple: Han Dynasty hermitage of strategist Zhang Liang Baiyun Lake: Mirror-like reservoir with boating
Practical Tips
Best Time to Visit: Summer (cool mountain retreat) or autumn (color foliage) Mountain Roads: Narrow and winding—experienced drivers only Temperature: Even in April, nights drop below freezing—bring warm layers Sunrise Trek: Allow 40+ minutes for the 3,000-step climb to Yuhuangding Waterfall Options: Hike the 1.5km canyon or take transport to parking area Return Transport: Cable car available from waterfall base (¥50-80)
Getting There
Location: Song County, Luoyang City, Henan Province
Distance from Luoyang: ~180km (3-4 hours by car)
Recommended: Self-drive or organized tour—public transport limited
Accommodation
Baiyun Mountain Villa: Mountain-top lodging with basic amenities
Lakeside Hotels: More comfortable options at Luhun Lake
Tips: Extra blankets essential—even summer nights are cold