Trip Overview
When: April 2021 (shoulder season, pleasant weather for sightseeing)
Duration: 8 days
Travelers: Couple (married couple)
Budget: ~3,000 RMB per person (~$420 USD) - excellent value for this comprehensive itinerary
Transportation: High-speed rail between cities, local buses, taxis, and tour buses within attractions
Essential Foreigner Info
Getting There: Most travelers fly into Zhengzhou (郑州) or Luoyang (洛阳) airports. We started from Shanghai Hongqiao Station, taking the high-speed rail directly to Luoyang Longmen Station (洛阳龙门站). The journey takes about 5.5 hours.
Money Matters: Mobile payment (WeChat Pay, Alipay) is widely accepted in hotels, restaurants, and most attractions. Keep 200-300 RMB cash for small vendors and tips. ATMs are readily available in city areas.
Language: English is limited outside major hotels. Learn a few key phrases: 谢谢 (xièxie - thank you), 请问 (qǐngwèn - excuse me), 多少钱 (duōshǎo qián - how much). Having Baidu Maps or Gaode Maps (高德地图) downloaded is essential - it works in English and shows bus routes.
Transportation: Taxis in Henan are remarkably cheap - typical rides within cities cost 10-20 RMB (~$1.40-2.80). Didi (China's Uber) is available in all three cities. For attractions like Yuntaishan, shuttle buses are included with your ticket.
Day 1: Arrival in Luoyang (洛阳)
After 5.5 hours on the high-speed rail from Shanghai, we arrived at Luoyang Longmen Station (洛阳龙门站) around 6:25 PM. Our pre-booked hotel offered airport pickup - the driver was a friendly young man who whisked us to our accommodation in the Xigong District (西工区). The room was clean and comfortable, though slightly far from the main tourist areas.
We explored the neighborhood and had dinner at a local eatery - our first taste of Henan's culinary scene.
Accommodation: Hotel in Xigong District, Luoyang - clean, quiet, about 15-minute drive from Longmen Grottoes
Day 2: Longmen Grottoes (龙门石窟) & China National Flower Garden (中国国花园)
We slept in and enjoyed the hotel's buffet breakfast before catching a Didi to Longmen Grottoes (龙门石窟) at 8:40 AM. After purchasing tickets, we boarded a scenic shuttle bus to the visitor center.
We hired a guide with audio earphones - highly recommended for understanding the historical significance of these Buddhist cave temples.
Longmen Grottoes (龙门石窟): One of China's four greatest cave temple complexes (along with Mogao Caves, Yungang Caves, and Maijishan). Carved over 400 years from the Northern Wei through the Tang Dynasty, this 1-kilometer stretch contains 2,345 caves with more than 100,000 Buddha statues and 2,800 inscribed steles.
The Binyang Middle Cave (宾阳中洞), built during the Northern Wei period, features stunning high-relief lotus carvings on the ceiling.
Lotus Cave (莲花洞): Named for its beautiful high-relief lotus carving, this cave houses some of the finest sculptures here.
The most famous statue is the Lokesshvara (卢舍那像) - a stunning S-shaped figure whose head was unfortunately stolen. Through collaboration between the Longmen Grottoes Museum, Shanghai Museum, and Zhejiang University, the original head's location was confirmed. A replica photo at the site shows how magnificent the complete statue would be.
Foreigner tip: The best views are from the opposite bank of the Yi River (伊河), looking back at the Western Caves (西山石窟). Take your time walking across.
We exited around 1:00 PM and took a taxi to China National Flower Garden (中国国花园). The Peony Festival (牡丹花节) had just opened on April 10th - perfect timing!
China National Flower Garden (中国国花园): A comprehensive park combining牡丹 (peony) culture with landscape design. The garden spans six major areas from west to west, featuring over 300牡丹 varieties with 200,000 plants.
The peonies were in magnificent bloom - petals of every shape and color. No wonder牡丹 is China's national flower!
We spent hours wandering through the gardens, camera in hand.
By 6:00 PM, we grabbed a taxi to the famous Luoyang restaurant "Zhen Butong" (真不同) - a百年老店 (century-old establishment) known for Luoyang's famous Water Banquet (洛阳水席), a national intangible cultural heritage.
Pro tip: The Water Banquet is meant for larger groups - with just two of us, we opted for a set menu. Still a unique experience!
After dinner, we walked through Lijing Gate (丽景门) on Luoyang's Old Street (洛阳老街) before catching a bus back to our hotel. We also booked a next-day tour to Shaolin Temple (少林寺) and White Horse Temple (白马寺) through a local Ctrip store.
Day 3: Shaolin Temple (少林寺) & White Horse Temple (白马寺)
Our driver picked us up at 7:00 AM - he'd arrived by 6:40, so we were on the road early. After collecting other passengers at the transport hub, we reached Shaolin Temple (少林寺) around 10:00 AM.
Shaolin Temple (少林寺): Founded by Emperor Xiaowen to house the Indian monk Bodhidharma, this temple is the birthplace of Chinese martial arts. The saying goes "All martial arts originate from Shaolin, and Shaolin martial arts rule the world."
Walking through the temple, the famous song "Shepherd's Song" (牧羊曲) from the 1982 film played in my head - "Sun rises over Mount Song, birds fly in the morning mist."
Forest of Pagodas (塔林): The burial ground for honored monks, with pagodas reflecting their achievement in Buddhism. Only 1, 3, 5, and 7-tiered pagodas exist here, in various shapes from square to hexagonal.
After a group lunch, we visited White Horse Temple (白马寺) around 4:00 PM.
White Horse Temple (白马寺): Built in 68 AD, this is the first official Buddhist temple in China, commissioned by the imperial government. Five main halls stand along a central axis.
Interestingly, newer temples from Thailand, Nepal, Myanmar, and India have been built nearby - a unique cultural fusion.
The return bus dropped us at Yingtian Gate (应天门) - we got off to enjoy the night view of this magnificent Tang Dynasty structure.
The Sui-Tang Heritage Park (隋唐遗址公园) was beautifully lit up - a perfect ending to a busy day.
Back at the hotel, we booked our bus to Jiaozuo (焦作) and Yuntaishan (云台山) for the next day.
Day 4: Shan-Shan Guild Hall (山陕会馆), Luoyang Old Street & Museum
After sleeping in and enjoying breakfast, we checked out and stored our luggage at the hotel. Then we took Bus Route 7 to the Shan-Shan Guild Hall (山陕会馆).
Shan-Shan Guild Hall (山陕会馆): Built by merchants from Shanxi and Shaanxi provinces during the Ming and Qing dynasties, this architectural gem showcases exquisite carvings and ancient craftsmanship. These two provinces produced the famous "Jin Merchants" (晋商) and "Shaanxi Merchants" (秦商) - two of China's most influential business guilds.
The wood carvings were extraordinarily detailed - every surface told a story.
Just a short walk away was Luoyang Old Street (洛阳老街) and Lijing Gate (丽景门).
We discovered the Luoyang Tricolor Art Museum (洛阳三彩艺术馆) on the old street - couldn't resist picking up an adorable little mouse figurine!
Luoyang Tricolor (洛阳三彩): A revolutionary achievement in Chinese ceramic history, these glazed pottery pieces feature distinctive three-color glazes - a treasure of Chinese culture.
For lunch, we tried the famous "Fanfan Tang" (不翻汤 - "don't flip soup") and Luoyang potstickers (锅贴) at a popular spot on the old street.
We noticed a famous non-heritage shop for Luoyang potstickers across the street - will have to try it next time!
After lunch, we took a taxi to Luoyang Museum (洛阳博物馆).
Luoyang Museum (洛阳博物馆): One of China's first national first-level museums, housing over 400,000 artifacts with 11,000 on display. It's the only comprehensive historical museum in Luoyang.
Reality check: The museum is massive - you could spend a full day here. We had to rush to catch our afternoon bus to Jiaozuo, so we focused on the Tang Tricolor (唐三彩) gallery - a highlight since these colorful ceramics were first discovered in Luoyang tombs.
We took a taxi back to the hotel, collected our luggage, then another taxi to Luoyang Long-Distance Bus Station. The 3:20 PM bus to Jiaozuo took just over 2 hours. At the Jiaozuo station, we shared a taxi with other passengers to reach our hotel near Yuntaishan - Tan Suo Homestay (探缩民宿), a Ctrip-partnered inn.
Accommodation: Tan Suo Homestay inside Yuntaishan scenic area - tastefully decorated with a rooftop terrace for tea and enjoying sunrise. Price was on the higher side for the area, but the experience was worth it.
The homestay street had everything - supermarkets, restaurants, whatever you need. We had a comfortable dinner at Lao Cun Restaurant (老村饭店), then explored the nighttime street scene.
We purchased next-day shuttle bus tickets online - one of the earliest dinners we'd had in Henan!
Day 5: Yuntaishan (云台山) - Part 1
We enjoyed breakfast at the homestay and headed out. Our inn was inside the scenic area - the bus stop was just a right turn from the door.
Yuntaishan (云台山 - "Cloud Terrace Mountain"): A UNESCO Global Geopark, AAAAA-level tourist attraction, and national scenic area spanning 280 square kilometers at the border of Henan and Shanxi provinces. The area includes Red Stone Gorge (红石峡), Tanpu Gorge (潭瀑峡), Quanpu Gorge (泉瀑峡), Qinglong Gorge (青龙峡), Fenglin Gorge (峰林峡), Zifang Lake (子房湖), Zhuyu Peak (茱萸峰), and more.
The main peak, Zhuyu Peak (茱萸峰), reaches 1,308 meters, with the Cloud Terrace Waterfall (云台天瀑) dropping 314 meters - one of China's highest waterfalls.
Pro tip: You cannot see all of Yuntaishan in one day. Tickets are valid for 3 days - we planned to cover it over two days.
Day 1: Red Stone Gorge (红石峡), Tanpu Gorge (潭瀑峡), Quanpu Gorge (泉瀑峡), Qinglong Gorge (青龙峡), Fenglin Gorge (峰林峡), and Zifang Lake (子房湖).
The landscapes were absolutely stunning - red cliffs, crystal-clear pools, and waterfalls at every turn.
We had lunch at one of the景区 restaurants - Henan's famous烩面 (wheat noodles) and rice dishes were available.
In the afternoon, we took Shuttle Line 2 to Monkey Valley (猕猴谷) and Tanpu Gorge (潭瀑峡).
Monkey Valley (猕猴谷): As the name suggests, wild macaques roam here - entertaining visitors!
Tanpu Gorge (潭瀑峡 - "Pond Waterfall Gorge", also called 小寨沟): The highlight of Yuntaishan, known as "three steps a spring, five steps a waterfall, ten steps a pond" - truly a Jiangsnan (outhern China) vibe in northern China.
We exited the scenic area around 4:00 PM and returned to the hotel. That evening, we booked our bus to Kaifeng (开封) for the next day, arranged a taxi to take us down the mountain, and reserved our hotel in Kaifeng for two nights plus the high-speed rail ticket back to Shanghai.
Day 6: Yuntaishan (云台山) - Part 2
Day 2 was reserved for climbing Zhuyu Peak (茱萸峰), the highest peak of Yuntaishan.
The shuttle bus passed through 14 mountain tunnels (the Diecai Caves / 叠彩洞) with a total elevation difference of 912 meters - quite an engineering feat!
At the mountain, we saw the statue of Tang Dynasty poet Wang Wei (王维), who wrote the famous poem "Alone in a Foreign Land" (独在异乡为异客) here, including the lines "On festive occasions, I think of my dear ones twice as much... When插茱萸 (wearing zhuyu), one person is missing."
Senior alert: There are two particularly steep stair sections on the way up - you may need to use your hands to climb. We made it, but it was challenging!
Reaching the summit was an achievement! The view was spectacular.
Looking out from Zhuyu Peak, you can see the endless mountains stretch to the horizon.
Next up: the famous Yuntaishan Glass Walkway (玻璃栈道) at Phoenix Ridge (凤凰岭).
Glass Walkway (玻璃栈道): Built on a 1,000-meter-high vertical cliff, walking on the transparent glass is absolutely thrilling. Looking down makes your legs tremble!
Reality check: Looking at the distant horizon isn't scary - but looking down? Definitely not for the faint-hearted!
We took the cable car down (10 minutes) instead of the 1.5-hour stair descent - much easier!
Back at the hotel, we collected our luggage. Unfortunately, the bus we had booked for 2:20 PM got delayed to 4:20 PM due to operational issues - we waited 2 hours at the station. We finally departed at 4:20 PM and arrived at Kaifeng Bus Station at 6:40 PM, then took a taxi to our hotel near Drum Tower Square (鼓楼广场).
Foreigner tip: Henan taxi prices are incredibly cheap - we were amazed at how affordable transportation was throughout the trip.
We stayed near Drum Tower Square (鼓楼广场), just 500 meters from the lively food street.
Day 7: Kaifeng (开封) - Iron Tower Park, Shan-Shan-Gan Guild Hall, Qingming Shanghe Garden
After breakfast, we took Bus Route 3 to Iron Tower Park (铁塔公园).
Iron Tower Park (铁塔公园): Located in northeast Kaifeng, this park is named after the existing Iron Tower (开宝寺塔) and covers 51.24 hectares. It's one of China's 100 famous gardens and a AAAA-level scenic spot.
Reality check: The Iron Tower isn't actually made of iron! It's called "Iron Tower" for two reasons: 1) The glazed brick tower body has weathered to an iron-like color over nearly a millennium, and 2) It stands resolute over Kaifeng like iron, witnessing centuries of change.
The Iron Tower and Fan Tower (繁塔) are the only remaining Song Dynasty buildings in Kaifeng.
Interesting fact: The Iron Tower has 168 internal steps - and the Northern Song Dynasty lasted exactly 168 years. Coincidence?
Next, we took the bus to the Shan-Shan-Gan Guild Hall (山陕甘会馆).
Shan-Shan-Gan Guild Hall (山陕甘会馆): Built in 1776 during the Qing Dynasty by wealthy merchants from Shanxi, Shaanxi, and Gansu provinces who were doing business in Kaifeng. It was built on the former site of Xuda, the founding marshal of the Ming Dynasty. This 200+ year old building covers 3,870 square meters with a quadrangle layout.
The stone carvings were magnificent.
And the 7-level wood carvings were incredibly intricate.
After lunch, we walked 1.5 kilometers to Qingming Shanghe Garden (清明上河园) - it was the weekend, so there were many visitors.
Qingming Shanghe Garden (清明上河园): Modeled after the famous painting "Along the River During the Qingming Festival" (清明上河图) by Zhang Zeduan, this park recreates Song Dynasty street life, imperial gardens, and ancient entertainment. The scale is impressive - you'll see structures like Fu Yun Ge (拂云阁) and the Rainbow Bridge (虹桥), plus live performances depicting Song Dynasty stories like "Bao Gong Inspects the River" and " Yue Fei Orders Troops."
The Rainbow Bridge (虹桥) is iconic - one of the few wooden arch bridges still standing.
We watched shadow puppetry (皮影) - a traditional Chinese art form.
There were impressive reenactments of Song Dynasty battles between Song and Jin troops.
Reality check: The nighttime view of Qingming Shanghe Garden is reportedly even more spectacular, with more lights and performances. We only saw the daytime version - next time!
For dinner, we first tried the famous "First Floor" (第一楼) restaurant near Drum Tower Square - there was a 45-minute wait. We then went to "You Yi Xin" (又一新) nearby, where we enjoyed Kaifeng's famous Sweet and Sour Soft-Braised Carp with Noodles (糖醋软熘鲤鱼焙面), a Henan intangible cultural heritage dish. The noodles on top require real skill to make!
Day 8: Kaifeng (开封) - Fan Tower, Baogong Temple, Yanqing Temple, Daxiangguo Temple, Return to Shanghai
After breakfast, we took the bus to Fan Tower (繁塔).
Fan Tower (繁塔): Located on the ancient Fan Terrace in southeast Kaifeng, built in 974 AD during the Northern Song Dynasty. Originally named Xingci Tower (兴慈塔) and Tianqing Temple Tower (天清寺塔), it's commonly called Fan Tower because of its location on the Fan Terrace. It's the oldest surviving building in Kaifeng and a key national cultural relic.
Interesting fact: The original tower was 9 stories - the tallest tower in Kaifeng at the time, even taller than the famous Iron Tower. A local saying goes: "Iron Tower is high, Iron Tower is high, but Iron Tower only reaches Fan Tower's waist!" (铁塔高，铁塔高，铁塔只到繁塔腰)
Sad reality: The lower Buddha statues have been deliberately destroyed, while those higher up survived. The carving technique is still visible and remarkable.
We took a taxi to Baogong Temple (包公祠) - no visit to Kaifeng is complete without honoring Judge Bao (包拯), known as the "Bao the Clear Sky" (包青天) in Chinese folklore.
Baogong Temple (开封包公祠): The largest and most comprehensive memorial to the legendary honest official Bao Zheng, located on the west bank of Baogong Lake (包公湖) in Kaifeng. It's a key attraction in the Central China tourism development plan.
We walked to Yanqing Temple (延庆观).
Yanqing Temple (延庆观): Originally named Chongyang Guan (重阳观), built in 1233 AD during the Mongol Yuan Dynasty to commemorate Wang Zhe (王喆), founder of the Quanzhen Taoist sect, who taught and died here. It's one of China's three famous Taoist temples, along with Beijing's White Cloud Temple (白云观) and Sichuan's Changdao Temple (常道观).
Pro tip: Baidu and Gaode Maps make navigation so much easier now. Years ago, travelers had to ask locals for directions - though the friendly people always helped!
Our next stop was Daxiangguo Temple (大相国寺).
Daxiangguo Temple (大相国寺): Founded in 555 AD during the Northern Qi Dynasty, it's one of China's ten most important Buddhist temples. The main buildings we see today are from the Qing Dynasty, and it's a key national cultural relic.
For lunch, we returned to Drum Tower Square and finally got a table at "First Floor" (第一楼) - there were far fewer diners at lunch. The soup dumplings (灌汤包) we'd traveled for were finally ours!
After lunch, we checked out, took a taxi to Kaifeng North Station (开封北站), and boarded the 3:02 PM high-speed rail. We arrived at Shanghai Hongqiao Station (上海虹桥站) at 7:13 PM - ending our 8-day Henan adventure.
Henan's Culinary Highlights
8 days in Henan meant we couldn't miss their famous dishes:
Luoyang Water Banquet (洛阳水席): The famous multi-course feast at Zhen Butong (真不同).
Kaifeng Sweet and Sour Soft-Braised Carp with Noodles (开封糖醋软熘鲤鱼焙面): The signature dish at You Yi Xin.
Henan Stewed Noodles (河南烩面): Hearty wheat noodles in rich broth - available throughout the region.
Henan Spicy Soup (胡辣汤): The perfect breakfast soup in Kaifeng.
First Floor's Crispy Pork (第一楼酥肉): Another specialty of the famous restaurant.
Independent travel allowed us to explore at our own pace, eat what we wanted, and truly experience this ancient region. Till next time, Henan!