I spent eight unforgettable days exploring Zhangjiajie's otherworldly peaks, drifting down the Mengdong River, wandering through Furong Town's waterfalls, and getting lost in Fenghuang's ancient alleys. From hiking through the Avatar mountains that inspired the floating Hallelujah Mountains to watching the sunrise over seas of clouds, from navigating the terrifying glass skywalk at Tianmen Mountain to battling water fights while rafting—this journey revealed a side of China that left me breathless. Whether you're a nature lover seeking dramatic landscapes or a culture enthusiast wanting authentic experiences, this route delivers adventure at every turn.
Trip Overview
When: Late September to early October (avoiding the National Day crowds)
Duration: 8 days
Travelers: With a friend
Budget: ~2,200 RMB (~$320 USD) per person
Transportation: Train + Local buses + Shared tours
Route: Chengdu → Zhangjiajie → Tianmen Mountain → Mengdong River → Furong Town → Fenghuang → Chengdu
Day 1-2: The Journey Begins
When I first decided to visit Zhangjiajie, it was on a whim. I had an exam in October, and I initially planned to stay home during the National Day holiday. But then I thought—when was the last time I traveled? It had been over half a year! I absolutely had to get out. I requested two days off work (September 29-30) to extend my holiday to ten days, hoping to beat the Golden Week crowds.
I spent two frantic days researching and booking everything—train tickets, hotels, and guides. Since there are no direct trains from Chengdu to Zhangjiajie, we planned to transfer through Tongren. Looking back, transferring through Huaihua would have been better with more train options. Word of advice: allow at least two hours between trains because delays are common.
🎯 Practical Info
Train Route: Chengdu → Tongren → Zhangjiajie Train K424: Departs 20:25, arrives Tongren ~09:15 next morning Transfer: Allow 2+ hours between trains Transfer Tip: Huaihua has more train options than Tongren
Our train K424 was an hour late, but the conductor made up time, and we arrived at Tongren at 9:30 AM. Then tragedy struck—our connecting train K9063 was delayed until noon! I sat in the waiting room, bought an overpriced cup of hot water for 10 RMB just to use their WiFi, and waited. When the train finally arrived, we discovered it was an old green-skinned train—basic, slow, and full of character. My travel companion sighed, "Why do we always end up on these vintage trains?"
Despite the four-hour journey, we booked sleeper berths. After a restless night, I slept solidly and woke up to... still not there yet. Finally, at 6 PM, we arrived! Stepping off the train, we were greeted by a spectacular sunset. Life truly gives you lemons then offers sweet candy—arriving late meant witnessing this gorgeous sunset! Our pre-booked guide Xiao Qiao was waiting at the station, and we spent the night in Zhangjiajie city.
Day 3: Entering the Avatar World
At 7 AM, we set off for Zhangjiajie National Forest Park—a 40-minute drive. To save costs, our guide suggested sharing a shuttle van (12 RMB per person) with other travelers. Our group of seven quickly became travel buddies, making the journey more enjoyable.
🎯 Zhangjiajie Forest Park Entry
Full Ticket: ¥245 (~$35) Student Ticket: ¥160 (~$23) Insurance: ¥3 (~$0.50) – recommended Best Time: Arrive early (7 AM) to avoid crowds
After entering the park, we followed the Golden Whip Stream (Jinbianxi) trail—a relatively flat path that gives you a false sense of security. Trust me, savor this easy walk because later it's nothing but uphill and downhill! The main highlights along this route are the "First Bridge Under Heaven" and "Hallelujah Mountain" (yes, the one from Avatar!).
When I first saw Hallelujah Mountain, I understood why it inspired the floating mountains in Avatar. Its distinctive shape—tall, slender, and impossibly balanced—looks otherworldly. Walking the entire trail took until about 1 PM, including time for photos and rest.
At Tianqiao Station, we caught a shuttle bus (tell the driver "Dingxiangrong Road exit" or they might not stop). The ride took about 20 minutes. From the drop-off point, we walked right into Dingxiangrong village—our accommodation for the night. After dropping our bags and a quick lunch, we met our group at 3 PM for an afternoon hike.
Walking from the village to the main road, then right for five minutes, we reached Daguantai Scenic Area. The panoramic views here are absolutely breathtaking—I spent twenty minutes just soaking it in. Then we descended 600 steep steps (my knees were screaming by this point) to explore "One Step Difficult" and "Divine Chicken Pecking Food."
At "One Step Difficult," I stood at the edge of a deep chasm between two peaks. Looking down, I felt dizzy—the gap looked crossable but without the steel bars installed for tourists, it would be truly "one step difficult" to traverse!
The right path leads to "Immortal Bridge" and "Emperor's Seat"—in my opinion, more impressive views. Immortal Bridge is a natural arch that looks far more dramatic in person than photos can capture. By the time we hiked back up those 600 steps, I was exhausted but exhilarated.
🎯 Pro Tips for Day 3
Sunset Spot: Daguantai offers excellent sunset views Snack: Try the local kudzu jelly (3 RMB/bowl) from village vendors Evening: Book sunrise tour with your guide (30 RMB/person) Luggage: Hotel can arrange luggage transport to city for next day
Day 4: Sunrise, Peaks, and Endless Stairs
We woke at 5 AM for sunrise—freezing! I layered every piece of clothing I brought. When I stepped outside, my fatigue instantly vanished. When was the last time I saw so many stars? The sky was absolutely packed with them—no light pollution here. I regretted not bringing a tripod; the Milky Way would have photographed beautifully. All those stars meant clear weather—we were getting our sunrise!
By 5:30 AM, our hotel lobby was packed with other sunrise chasers. Our guide shared local stories during the drive. We were dropped off at a roadside viewpoint where we waited in darkness with a crowd of fellow travelers.
As dawn broke without any sun appearing, many people left disappointed. We asked our guide if we should give up. He assured us: "Today you'll definitely see it." We trusted him and waited. Ten minutes later—a golden edge peeked over the horizon! The remaining crowd cheered as the sun slowly emerged, painting the sky orange and pink. Our guide's experience paid off—patience brought us this magical moment.
After sunrise, we visited "Air Garden" and "Divine Soldier Gathering"—an undeveloped area with spectacular pillar formations that rivals the main park. The lack of crowds made it feel like we had the mountains to ourselves. Our group had a blast taking timed selfies against this incredible backdrop.
Back at the hotel by 8 AM for breakfast, we packed our bags and arranged luggage transport to the city hotel. Lightened of heavy bags, carrying only cameras and snacks, we headed out for our most challenging day.
From Dingxiangrong Road, we took the blue shuttle route to Wulongzhai (Wulong Village) entrance. The morning hike through Yangjiajie took about 5 hours. Here's a time-saving shortcut: after exiting the shuttle, walk about 2 minutes and look left for an information stone tablet. Behind it, there's a muddy path—not the paved trail—that leads to a pavilion in about 10 minutes.
From the pavilion, take the left path toward "Air Corridor" rather than right toward "Five Arhats Worshiping Buddha." The climb involves metal ladders attached to cliff faces—thrilling for some, terrifying for others! The summit offers breathtaking 360-degree views that made every step worthwhile.
After retracing our steps to the stone tablet, we took the right path toward "Five Arhats Worshiping Buddha" and "Wulong Village." The narrow passages required sucking in our stomachs—literally squeezing between rock walls! The final destination, Tianbo Mansion (Tianbo Fu), was crowded and honestly less impressive than Air Corridor.
We shuttled to Shentang Bay, then walked (or shuttled—we were exhausted) to Dianjiang Terrace. After that, Tianzi Mountain Park awaited, filled with tour groups. The "Cloud Green Rock" and "Imperial Brush Peak" viewpoints were beautiful but overly commercialized—constant photo service offers disrupted the experience.
🎯 Day 4 Costs
Tianzi Mountain Cable Car: ¥67 adult, ¥40 student (~$10/$6) Ten-Mile Gallery Train: ~¥30 one-way Shuttle Bus to City: ¥12 per person
After Tianzi Mountain, we walked to Tianzi Pavilion, passing "Fairy Offering Flowers"—a rock formation that actually resembles a beautiful woman. The cable car down offered terrifyingly high views (I'm not great with heights!).
Our final stop was Ten-Mile Gallery—a scenic valley walk. We took the tourist train one-way (30 RMB) and walked back (20 minutes). Walking back was smart—queues for the return train were massive! By 6 PM, we took the shuttle to Wulingyuan exit, then bus 1 to the bus station, and finally a 12 RMB bus back to Zhangjiajie city. Everyone slept the entire ride—we'd earned it.
Day 5: Tianmen Mountain and Glass Walkways
Finally, a relatively easy day! One attraction: Tianmen Mountain. We slept in until 9 AM—pure luxury after yesterday's 5 AM start.
I'd pre-booked tickets online (October 1st is peak season) to skip queues. A taxi to the entrance cost 8 RMB—negotiate prices beforehand as drivers often overcharge tourists. Staff verified our ID and handed over tickets. We took the cable car from the second floor.
🎯 Tianmen Mountain Tips
Book Online: Essential during peak season (saves money too) Best Route: West Route only (no need to complete full circuit) Glass Skywalk: ¥15 (~$2) including ¥10 deposit for shoe covers Elevator to Heaven's Gate: Free after 12 PM (avoid 999 stairs!)
I'll be honest—Tianmen Mountain disappointed me. As someone who loves raw natural landscapes like Zhangjiajie Forest Park, this felt like a theme park built on a mountain. The glass skywalk, while famous, was packed and underwhelming. The 15 RMB fee (10 refundable deposit for shoe covers) seemed steep for a short walkway.
However, the small open-air cable car to the summit was thrilling—terrifying for acrophobes like me! The summit's Tianwang Temple (Heavenly King Temple) was beautifully constructed. We didn't explore fully since my companion was exhausted from previous days.
The highlight? Discovering the newly-opened elevator (October 1st opening!) that bypasses the 999 stairs to Heaven's Gate. Following signs for 20-30 minutes through mountainside tunnels, we rode multiple escalator sections built inside the mountain—truly impressive engineering! Emerging from the mountain, we found ourselves directly below Heaven's Gate Cave without climbing those dreaded stairs.
We descended the stairs (much easier than climbing up!) and caught shuttle buses down. Total time: about 4 hours.
Day 6: River Rafting and Waterfall Town
At 7:30 AM, we joined a group tour to Mengdong River for whitewater rafting. October isn't peak season, and we lucked out with perfect weather—the next day brought rain!
After a 2-hour drive, we reached the rafting site. Since it wasn't scorching hot and due to personal circumstances, I opted for full waterproof gear rental while my companion risked it with just a raincoat. She got soaked below the waist—my full gear kept me completely dry! We bought a water gun for my companion to join water battles with other rafters. The 3-hour float offered small thrills—exciting for rafting newbies like us, though experienced rafters might find it mild.
🎯 Mengdong River Rafting
Duration: 3 hours Best Season: July-August (higher water levels) Protect Your Gear: Secure everything—glasses especially! Waterproof Gear: Recommended for cooler weather
We organized lunch through our guide—25 RMB per person for a decent meal including shrimp. In the afternoon, we visited Furong Town (Furong Zhen). Originally we'd skip it, but since our transfer to Fenghuang was arranged from here, and my companion qualified for free entry (under 18), we decided to explore—and I'm so glad we did!
Furong Town charmed me more than I expected. A large plaza at the entrance hosts Tujia ethnic performances—singing and dancing that welcomed each new group of visitors. The town's waterfall setting creates a unique atmosphere. Spending 1.5 hours wandering through was perfect—less crowded than major attractions, authentically beautiful, and the natural waterfall cascading through the ancient town was mesmerizing.
We arrived in Fenghuang around 10 PM—Golden Week had officially begun, and the town was packed. Traffic was at a standstill. After finally reaching our accommodation, we collapsed, planning to sleep in and explore the next day.
Day 7: Lost in Fenghuang's Alleys
We woke at 10 AM—a luxurious sleep-in while traveling! Stepping out, I was shocked. The narrow alleys were packed shoulder-to-shoulder with tourists. "Ah," I thought, "Golden Week has truly arrived."
We avoided buying the town entry ticket, instead exploring the free back alleys. Honestly, I felt Fenghuang loses its charm with crowds. The ancient town's atmosphere disappears when you're shoulder-to-shoulder with thousands of tourists. We wandered, snapped some photos, then retreated for an afternoon nap—yes, a nap!—planning to return for evening photography when crowds might thin.
🎯 Fenghuang Tips
Entry Fee: Many back alleys are free (avoid main gates) Best Time: Early morning or late evening Boat Ride: ¥15 per person (negotiable) Avoid: National Day week (Oct 1-7) if possible
We took a boat ride on the Tuo River—15 RMB per person seemed fair. The river journey offered different perspectives of the stilted houses and stone bridges. A small temple in the old town provided peaceful refuge from the crowds—Ironic that the least crowded spot was a religious site!
As evening approached, the town transformed. When darkness fell, the crowds became invisible, and the illuminated ancient buildings reflected in the river created a magical atmosphere. The local government had organized evening performances—colorful and culturally distinct, though not particularly impressive compared to other attractions.
Day 8: Farewell and Journey Home
We woke at 6:30 AM hoping for crowd-free photos. Stepping outside at 7 AM, we were shocked—how was everyone else already awake?! Golden Week travelers are serious about their sightseeing!
Still, I managed to capture some clean shots by being patient and waiting for gaps between tour groups. The morning light on the ancient architecture was worth the early wake-up. After a final wander through the awakening town, we packed and headed to the bus station.
🎯 Return Journey
Fenghuang → Chongqing North: ~7 hours by bus, ¥160 Chongqing North → Chengdu: High-speed train D5131 (21:10 departure) Arrival: 23:30 same evening
This trip combined intense early days with relaxed final days—a perfect balance. The first four days of hiking were exhausting but incredibly rewarding. The final days offered cultural immersion and relaxation. Total cost stayed under 2,200 RMB per person—excellent value for an 8-day adventure!
For travelers considering this route, I highly recommend hiring a local guide for Zhangjiajie Forest Park—the trail network is complex and confusing. Our guide Xiao Qiao was knowledgeable, friendly, and handled all logistics seamlessly. Having someone explain local customs and history enriched the experience tremendously.
The clear Tuo River waters, the peaceful ancient town atmosphere (when crowds allow), and the misty morning views created lasting memories. This journey convinced me that independent travel offers the most authentic experiences—freedom to adjust plans, linger at favorite spots, and discover unexpected gems.
Final Tips for Your Journey
What to Pack
Layers—including warm jacket for mountain sunrises Rain gear (raincoat + waterproof bag covers) Camera rain cover (essential for rafting) Personal toiletries (mountain hotels have basic supplies) Slippers (hotel slippers aren't always sanitary) Reusable water bottle (useful everywhere) Umbrella
Money-Saving Tips
Student discounts available everywhere (bring ID) Share shuttle vans to park entrances Book train tickets early for better prices Stay in Zhangjiajie city before/after mountain stays
Best Time to Visit
Spring (April-May) and Autumn (September-October) offer clearest views Avoid Chinese National Day (Oct 1-7) and May Day holidays Summer brings crowds but highest water levels for rafting Winter offers snow-capped peaks but limited accessibility