Trip Overview
When: October 2022 (shoulder season, fewer crowds but occasional rain)
Duration: 11 days
Travelers: Couple
Budget: ~3,500 RMB (~$490 USD) per person
Transportation: Flight + train + bus + local taxis
Essential Foreigner Info
Getting There: Most visitors fly into Kunming (昆明), then take high-speed trains to Dali and Lijiang. The province has excellent tourism infrastructure with English signage at major attractions.
Money Matters: Mobile payment (WeChat Pay, Alipay) is standard everywhere. Bring some cash for small vendors in rural areas. ATMs are readily available in tourist towns.
Language: Mandarin is widely understood in tourist areas. In Dali, you'll encounter Bai language; in Lijiang and Shangri-La, Naxi and Tibetan influences. Basic English phrases plus your translation app will get you through.
Altitude Warning: This itinerary includes high-altitude destinations: Cangshan Mountain (苍山) at 3,900m, Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (玉龙雪山) at 4,680m. Take it slow, stay hydrated, and grab oxygen cans at tourist shops if needed—usually free with tour packages.
Day 1: Kunming to Dali
We caught a midday flight from Wuhan to Kunming—about 2 hours in the air. After landing at Kunming Wujiaba Airport, we hopped on Metro Line 6 to Tangzi Lane, transferred to Line 2, and arrived at Kunming Railway Station. From there, a high-speed train to Dali takes just over an hour.
Pro tip: There are numerous trains daily between Kunming and Dali. We arrived around 6 PM at Dali Railway Station. Stepping outside, we found Bus 8 waiting just a few minutes' walk from the exit. A quick ride to the East Gate of Dali Old Town (大理古城), and a short walk to our pre-booked guesthouse.
Reality check: The old town's streets are paved with stone cobblestones—literally brutal on luggage wheels. Pro hack: carry your bags or book a place with airport pickup. Our guesthouse, run by a friendly couple from northeast China, had a delightful surprise waiting: a fresh vase of lilies and a plate of seasonal fruit. Instant mood lifter after a day of travel.
We spent the evening wandering the old town's narrow alleys, sampling local snacks: roasted乳扇 (cured dairy roll), 饵丝 (rice noodle strips), and 饵块 (rice cake)—essentially Yunnan street food roulette. By the time we finished grazing, dinner was officially canceled.
Day 2: Erhai Lake (洱海) and Shuanglang (双廊)
After a leisurely morning at a legendary old-town米线 restaurant, we headed to Erhai Lake (洱海), Yunnanese for 'Sea of Ear'—named for its shape, not its seafood.
Transport options from the old town: shared minibus (15 RMB, ~$2.10 per person) or negotiate a private car (30 RMB, ~$4.20 per person). We scored a deal at 20 RMB (~$2.80) when two more passengers filled the van. The 50-minute drive delivers you to Shuanglang (双廊), the lakeside village that's basically Instagram heaven—brightly colored convertibles rental shops line the streets, and every young couple seems to be posing for photos.
We rented an electric bike for 50 RMB (~$7) for the day—no deposit, just an ID. From Shuanglang, we cycled north to Waipai (挖色) and Xiaopu'tuo (小普陀), a tiny lakeside temple. The scenic route along Erhai's eastern shore is relatively flat and stunning, with the Cangshan Mountains as your backdrop.
Foreigner tip: If you have time, continue north to蝴蝶泉 (Butterfly Spring)—but it's in the opposite direction from Xiaopu'tuo, so plan accordingly.
Returning to Dali old town, we grabbed dinner at 'Er Yue Xiao Chu' (洱月小厨), known for their mushroom hotpot. Pro tip: the set menu is vegetarian. We added a plate of beef for a complete meal—because vegetarian hotpot, while authentic, feels incomplete when you're paying for it.
Dali Old Town (大理古城)
Day 3: Cangshan Mountain (苍山) and Tianlongbaodu影视城
Our guesthouse served a simple but satisfying breakfast: celery and egg buns plus congee—gentle on the stomach after yesterday's snacking adventures.
Today's mission: Cangshan Mountain (苍山) and its famous洗马潭 (Ximatang, 'Washing Horse Pond'). We booked tickets online and walked to the scenic area entrance south of the old town. Staff handed us each a 1-liter oxygen canister—smart move given the altitude.
The cable car to Cangshan is no joke: 5.5 kilometers long, ascending 1,648 vertical meters. Claimed to be Asia's longest and most technologically advanced, the ride takes 30+ minutes with a transfer halfway up. We emerged at 3,900 meters elevation.
Senior alert: The walking trail from the cable car to Ximatang is relatively flat—much easier than expected. I didn't need oxygen, though some fellow travelers were definitely using theirs. The pond itself, at roughly 4,000 meters, is named after Kublai Khan, who supposedly washed his horse here during his conquests.
Descending the mountain, we exited at Tianlongbaodu影视城 (Tianlongbaodu Film City), a recreation of Dali's ancient capital and the setting for much of 'Demi-Gods and Semi-Devils.' It's not the real ancient palace (which no longer exists), but it does feature occasional actor performances. Bus Route 10 runs directly from here through the old town to our guesthouse.
Erhai Lake (洱海)
Erhai Lake Shuanglang (洱海双廊)
Erhai Lake Xiaopu'tuo (洱海小普陀)
Day 4: Dali to Lijiang
Rain greeted us this morning—a good day for travel. We pre-booked a bus departing from Dali Old Town's south gate (垒翠园客运站). Our host kindly drove us to the pickup point.
The 3-hour bus ride delivered us to Lijiang Old Town (丽江古城) south gate around 12:30 PM. A taxi to the north gate cost 11.9 RMB (~$1.70)—metered, surprisingly honest. Our guesthouse was only a few minutes' walk away.
Reality check: Like Dali, Lijiang's old town has cobblestone streets. Our host met us at the north gate to help with luggage—essential move.
Lunch at 'A Po La Piguot' (阿婆腊排骨)—the famous Naxi specialty: cured pork rib hotpot. The smoky, savory broth is uniquely delicious, and the price is remarkably reasonable. This place has clearly earned its reputation.
Lijiang Old Town (丽江古城), at 2,416 meters elevation, dates back 800+ years. Built by the Naxi people, it's a UNESCO World Heritage site with an intricate network of canals and bridges—truly a town that needs slow, contemplative exploration. Despite being off-peak season, it was still crowded, but that's part of the charm.
Lijiang A Po Lapo (丽江阿婆腊排骨)
Lijiang Old Town (丽江古城)
Day 5: Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (玉龙雪山) and Blue Moon Valley (蓝月谷)
Pre-booked a day tour to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (玉龙雪山)—the Naxi people's sacred mountain. Our driver picked us up at 9:30 AM from the old town north gate. Small group: just five guests. The tour included waterproof/warm jackets, bottled water, and small oxygen canisters—free.
First stop: Blue Moon Valley (蓝月谷), a crescent-shaped valley at the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. The water appears distinctly blue on sunny days—hence the name. On cloudy days like ours? Still beautiful, just less dramatically so.
Lunch was included:腊鸡 hotpot (cured chicken)—not bad for group food. Then onward to the main event: Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.
Altitude reality check: We took the cable car to 4,506 meters. From there, it's a wooden plank path hike to 4,680 meters—the highest point open to tourists. The rain made everything slippery, and at altitude, every step feels like three. I stopped multiple times to catch my breath and sip oxygen. One hour and fifteen minutes later, we reached the summit marker.
Foreigner tip: Snow typically covers the mountain from November to April. We visited in mid-October—no snow, but still a remarkable achievement at 4,680 meters. The sense of accomplishment was real.
Total time at the mountain: about 3.5 hours. Return to Lijiang by late afternoon.
Blue Moon Valley (蓝月谷景区)
Jade Dragon Snow Mountain cable car ascending to 4,506m
4,680m - the highest point open to visitors
Day 6: Shangri-La (香格里拉) - Tiger Leaping Gorge (虎跳峡)
Today began our 3-day Shangri-La adventure. Pickup at 7:10 AM from Lijiang's north gate—our driver was a Tibetan local, knowledgeable about the region. The weather started cloudy but cleared as we drove toward Shangri-La.
First stop: Tiger Leaping Gorge (虎跳峡), one of the world's deepest river canyons. The gorge sits between Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (to the south) and Haba Snow Mountain (哈巴雪山, to the north). The Golden Sand River (Jinsha Jiang), originating from the snowfields of Geladandong Peak in Qinghai, transforms into a raging torrent when forced through this narrow gap.
Legend: The gorge gets its name from a tiger supposedly leaping across the river on a massive mid-stream rock. The roar of the water against the rocks is absolutely thunderous—you can feel it in your chest.
We spent 1.5 hours at the gorge, then continued toward Shangri-La via winding mountain roads. Our driver pointed out the new expressway under construction—scheduled to open next year, making the trip significantly faster and safer.
En route, we stopped at a field of狼毒花 (Chinese stellera flowers)—distinctive red plants that carpet the高原 (highland) in late summer. Then we arrived atYila Grassland (依拉草原), where green grassland meets blue sky in every direction. Beside it liesNapa Sea (纳帕海), a seasonal freshwater lake at 3,266 meters, covering 660 square kilometers when full.
Our driver took us on a scenic环海 (lake loop) drive, stopping at viewpoint after viewpoint. We also visitedSongzanlin Monastery (松赞林寺), the largest Tibetan Buddhist monastery in Yunnan—often called 'the little Potala Palace.'
Dinner was a Tibetan homestay experience: butter tea (酥油茶), barley wine (青稞酒),yak hotpot (牦牛肉火锅), highland chicken soup, and fresh lamb. The food kept coming, and during the meal, local Tibetans sang and danced with guests. Afterward, a bonfire party (篝火晚会) brought the day to a perfect close.
Tiger Leaping Gorge (虎跳峡景区)
Shangri-La Stellera flowers (香格里拉狼毒花)
Shangri-La Yila Grassland (香格里拉依拉草原)
Shangri-La Napa Sea (香格里拉纳帕海)
Day 7: Pudacuo National Park (普达措国家公园)
Rain persisted as we headed to Pudacuo National Park (普达措国家公园), a UNESCO World Heritage site and part of the 'Three Parallel Rivers' (三江并流) scenic area. At 3,500-4,159 meters elevation, it's a biodiversity hotspot.
The park is supposed to include Bita Lake (碧塔海), Shudu Lake (属都湖), and Mili Pasture (弥里塘亚高山牧场). Reality check: Bita Lake and Mili Pasture have been closed to tourists for three years. Only Shudu Lake's 3.3-kilometer loop trail remains open.
Foreigner tip: This is a significant disappointment. The park should disclose this information upfront when booking tickets. We completed the loop in under 1.5 hours. On a sunny day, the blue sky reflecting off the lake would be spectacular. On our rainy day? Let's just say our expectations were... adjusted.
Returning to Shangri-La'sDukezong Old Town (独克宗古城), we dined at a popular Tibetan restaurant—apparently featured on a Chinese reality show. The menu included butter tea, barley cakes, roasted shiitake mushrooms, and yak hotpot. Verdict: significantly better than last night's homestay dinner.
Historical note: Dukezong is the largest and best-preserved Tibetan residential area in China. Its massive prayer wheel (转经筒) requires many people working together to spin—visitors line up to add their effort and prayers. In 2014, a devastating fire destroyed one-third of the old town; the current version is reconstructed.
Pudacuo National Park (普达措国家公园)
Pudacuo National Park (普达措国家公园)
Pudacuo Shudu Lake (普达措国家公园属都湖)
Dukezong Old Town - World's largest prayer wheel (独克宗古城,世界上最大的转经筒)
Day 8: Shika Snow Mountain (石卡雪山) - Closed + Mufu Palace (木府)
Rain continued as we set out for Shika Snow Mountain (石卡雪山), another sacred mountain for local Tibetans at 4,500 meters—just 7 kilometers from Dukezong. Result: the mountain entered maintenance and closed for one month. No visit possible.
Tour company refunded that portion. We pivoted: return to Lijiang. Four+ hours of winding mountain roads later, we arrived back in Lijiang. Reunion with our favorite: 'A Po La Piguot' for dinner.
Post-dinner, we visited Mufu Palace (木府)—the former residence of the local Naxi chieftains. The saying goes: 'The Forbidden City is in the north; Mufu Palace is in the south.' It's not wrong.
Historical context: The Mu family ruled Lijiang as native chieftains (土司) from the Yuan Dynasty through the Ming and Qing—22 generations over 470 years. Mufu Palace was the political and cultural center of the region. The drama 'Mufu Palace' (木府风云) was filmed here. Entry: 40 RMB (~$5.60) per person.
Pro tip: While not as grand as the Forbidden City, Mufu Palace offers an excellent window into Naxi culture and history. Allow time to appreciate the architecture and exhibits.
After Mufu Palace, we continued exploring the old town by the canals—strolling along waterways is the best way to navigate without getting lost. The rivers are lined with succulents and flowers, creating a photographer's dream. We wandered until evening, grabbed dinner, and called it a day.
Lijiang Mufu Palace (丽江木府)
Lijiang Mufu Palace (丽江木府)
Day 9: Lugu Lake (泸沽湖) - Part 1
Another early morning: 7:45 AM pickup for our Lugu Lake (泸沽湖) 2-day tour. The 200-kilometer journey from Lijiang to Lugu Lake is mostly mountain roads—and with continuous rain, conditions were sketchy. We spotted fallen rocks and minor landslides along the way. Our driver's expert handling got us there safely after roughly 5 hours.
Lugu Lake sits at the border between Sichuan's Yanyuan County and Yunnan's Ninglang County, managed by both provinces. This mysterious region is home to the Mosuo people (摩梭), known for their unique 'walking marriages.' The lake itself sits at 2,685 meters—Yunnan's highest lake and China's third-deepest.
We spent the afternoon on a环湖游 (lake circle tour). Evening brought a Mosuo cultural dance performance.
En route to Lugu Lake - roadside lunch stop
Lugu Lake (泸沽湖)
Day 10: Lugu Lake (泸沽湖) - Part 2
After breakfast, we headed to the docks for a猪槽船 (pig-trough boat)—the traditional wooden vessels used by Mosuo people. The lake's water is crystal clear, reportedly safe to drink directly.
Floating on the water, we observed clusters of white flowers the locals call '水性杨花' (water-flowering poplar)—delicate blooms on the lake's surface.
We wrapped up Lugu Lake around 11 AM and began the 5-hour return to Lijiang. Back by 5 PM, we enjoyed another evening wander through the illuminated old town.
Lugu Lake pig-trough boat (泸沽湖猪槽船)
Lugu Lake pig-trough boat (泸沽湖猪槽船)
Lugu Lake Lige Peninsula (泸沽湖里格半岛)
Lugu Lake 'Water Flower' (泸沽湖的水性杨花)
Day 11: Return Journey
Our final day in Yunnan. After 11 unforgettable days covering Dali, Lijiang, Shangri-La, and Lugu Lake, we headed home with memories—and probably a few extra pounds from all that mushroom hotpot and腊排骨.
Yunnan delivers on its promise: diverse ethnic cultures, breathtaking natural scenery, and unique culinary traditions found nowhere else in China. Yes, the rain was frequent, and yes, some attractions didn't meet expectations—but the highs far outweighed the lows.
Final verdict: Would we do it again? In a heartbeat. Would we recommend it? Absolutely. Just packlayers, bring good hiking shoes, and prepare for altitude. This is adventure travel at its most accessible.