Trip Overview
When: May 9, 2021 (Spring, best weather for outdoor sightseeing)
Duration: 1 day
Travelers: Family with child
Budget: ~50 RMB (~$7 USD)
Transportation: Subway + walking
Essential Foreigner Info
Getting There: Take Beijing Subway Line 4 to Yuanmingyuan Station (圆明园站). The site has multiple entrances—Zhengjue Temple (正觉寺) entrance is less crowded than the main south gate.
Money Matters: Most vendors accept mobile payment (Alipay/WeChat Pay). Bring 50-100 RMB in cash for small stalls and ticket counters.
Language: Basic Mandarin useful. Key phrases: 圆明园 (Yuánmíngyuán) - Old Summer Palace, 大水法 (Dàshuǐfǎ) - Great Waterworks, 西洋楼 (Xīyánglóu) - Western Palace.
Transportation: The park is huge—consider renting a boat or tram to cover more ground. Wear comfortable shoes!
Entering Through Zhengjue Temple
We entered through Zhengjue Temple (正觉寺) entrance—smart move, because other visitors warned us about 2-hour queues at the south gate. No waiting for us! Right at the temple entrance, a stone tablet bears the inscription "不能忘记" (Cannot Forget) written by Mr. Ouyang Zhongshi. It means: never forget the humiliation and suffering the nation endured. Walking through, we see the Twelve Animal Heads exhibition—national treasures that have returned to China. Standing before these relics, one thought sinks in: only a strong country commands respect.
Spring scenery: Lakes and Willows
Stepping into the Old Summer Palace (圆明园), I'm immediately captivated. Spring has painted this place in vivid colors—"春色墨黛景自开，碧水小桥入画来" (spring colors bloom naturally, azure waters and small bridges enter the painting). Walking along the lake shore, green willows sway in the breeze, absolutely stunning. Purple三角梅 (bougainvillea) and chrysanthemums bloom in交替 (alternating patches)—"接天杨柳无穷碧，映日鲜花别样红" (endless green willows reaching the sky, flowers reflecting the sun uniquely red).
Foreigner tip: The Western-style buildings are in a separate area requiring an additional 15 RMB ticket. Don't miss them!
Food Stalls: A Feast of Chaos
At the food vendors' area, chaos reigns supreme—everyone seems to be spending someone else's money, frantically scanning QR codes to pay. "名似云烟金如土，欢乐一时亦知足" (fame like clouds and smoke, money like dirt, momentary joy is enough). The prices are surprisingly reasonable for a tourist spot.
Water Views: Lakeside Serenity
The Old Summer Palace's water scenery is magnificent. Schools of fish swim joyfully, mandarin ducks and wild ducks play lazily. Different sections offer various boats—rowing or cruising on the lake lifts the spirit. Pay for the boat, get the happiness. "远近景色不住瞭，轻舟悠悠掏钱包" (distant and near scenery never ceases to admire, light boat drifts slowly, wallet opens willingly).
Full-Scale Model Exhibition
We took the tourist boat from翠鸟码头 (Kingfisher Pier) to全景模型码头 (Panoramic Model Pier), then paid another 10 RMB for the "Old Summer Palace Full-Scale Model Exhibition." Even though it's just a model, viewing it ignites emotions that won't settle. Such magnificent architecture—if it still existed today, it would be humanity's precious treasure. The garden's blend of Chinese and Western elements represents first-rate grandeur. "此景只应天上有，人间仅此一回闻" (this scenery should only exist in heaven, on earth only heard once).
Western Palace Ruins
Next, we visited the Western Palace (西洋楼) ruins—an extra 15 RMB ticket. This was the key landscape of the Old Summer Palace in its prime, a perfect example of Western architecture sinicized. Today, it's all ruined walls and broken pillars, heartbreaking to witness. Seeing the famous Great Waterworks (大水法) ruins and the Haiyan Tang (海晏堂) ruins, lines from a poem come to mind: "烧园耻，犹未雪，国之恨，何时灭。驾长鹰踏破八国山阙，壮志饥餐胡虏肉，笑谈渴饮洋肉血。待强时，重整旧山河，朝天阙。" (The shame of burning the garden, not yet avenged—national hatred, when will it end? Ride the long eagle to break through the eight-nation mountain passes...)
The Twelve Animal Heads that returned to China in recent years once stood in front of Haiyan Tang.
Huanghua Array: The Maze
Inside the Western Palace ruins lies a building restored to its original appearance—the Huanghua Array (黄花阵), also called the Ten-Thousand Flower Array. Modeled after European gardens, emperors, concubines, princes, princesses, and officials all held parties here. The maze has multiple paths from each entrance to the central pavilion, full of twists and turns—quite interesting. Secretly, I think only one path leads to the center; all others are part of the maze.
The Remnant Bridge
In its prime, the garden had many bridges. We see one remaining—this is the only bridge left after the Old Summer Palace's destruction. It witnessed the garden's rise and fall, and today's peaceful prosperity.
Epilogue: Reflection and Hope
The Old Summer Palace Ruins Park (圆明园遗址公园), though stripped of its former glory, still carries the charm of landscape gardening. While enjoying the scenery, one cannot forget history. Here, you can feel indignant; here, your blood boils.
Indeed:
季春将去临夏初，湖内锦鲤涟漪舒。
似毯绿茵垂杨柳，无边景致当翘楚。
残垣荒凉满血泪，难堪当年旧时路。
满目韶光今又是，东风着意谱新途。
(Spring is leaving, early summer coming—koi in the lake ripple comfortably.
Carpet-like green grass, drooping willows, boundless scenery stands out.
Ruins desolate, full of tears and blood, the old path unbearable to recall.
Looking around, beautiful sunshine once more—east wind intentionally writes a new journey.)