I spent two unforgettable days exploring Qixia Mountain in Nanjing, one of China's four great maple viewing destinations that most international travelers have never discovered. Walking through crimson forests that blazed like fire against ancient temple walls, capturing the moment when monks strolled past fiery red maples, and discovering hidden valleys where every leaf seemed painted by nature's own brush—this journey revealed an autumn side of China that took my breath away. If you're seeking that perfect fall foliage experience away from the usual tourist trails, Qixia Mountain delivers magic that will stay with you long after the last leaf falls.
Trip Overview
When: Late Autumn (late November to early December)
Duration: 2 days
Travelers: With friends
Budget: ~2,000 RMB (~$280 USD)
Transportation: Taxi + Walking
Day 1: Arrival and First Impressions
When I first stepped onto the forest path at Qixia Mountain (栖霞山 Qīxiá Shān), I couldn't believe the explosion of color before my eyes. The maple trees burned crimson on both sides of the trail, their fiery red leaves creating a canopy that seemed to set the entire mountain ablaze. Qixia Mountain is hailed as one of China's four great maple viewing destinations, alongside Beijing's Fragrant Hills, Suzhou's Tianping Mountain, and Changsha's Yuelu Mountain.
Located in Nanjing's Qixia District, this mountain was originally called She Mountain (摄山 Shè Shān) until the construction of Qixia Temple gave it its current name. Known as "Jinling's First Elegant Mountain" since the Ming Dynasty, it has attracted visitors for centuries who come to witness this spectacular autumn transformation.
The Golden Hour of Maple Viewing
Walking through the mountain, I found myself surrounded by over 500,000 maple trees of various species—red maple, sweetgum, Chinese zelkova, and more. The leaves had reached their peak transformation, painting the mountainside in shades of scarlet, orange, and gold. Sunlight filtered through the canopy, creating dancing patterns of light and shadow that made every step feel like walking through a living painting.
I visited with a friend on what might be the last weekend of peak season—miss this window, and we'd have to wait an entire year. As we entered through the main gate, rows of glass wind chimes inscribed with blessings caught the breeze, their gentle tinkling creating the perfect soundtrack for our autumn adventure.
The main pathway was lined with maples burning like wildfire, and I understood immediately why Nanjing locals claim autumn's beauty peaks right here at Qixia. The variety of maple species creates a constantly shifting tapestry of colors—deep burgundy, bright crimson, golden yellow, and lingering green. With the ancient temples as a backdrop, the scene felt like stepping into a fairy tale. The only downside? We weren't the only ones who'd discovered this secret—the mountain was bustling with fellow autumn enthusiasts.
Passing Through Ancient Qixia Temple
To reach the best maple viewing spots, we first passed through Qixia Temple (栖霞寺 Qīxiá Sì), nestled on the western slope of the central peak. Founded during the Southern Dynasties period over 1,500 years ago, this temple once ranked among the four great Buddhist temples of China, alongside Guoqing Temple in Zhejiang, Lingyan Temple in Shandong, and Yuquan Temple in Hubei. Its historical significance in Chinese Buddhism cannot be overstated.
In front of the temple sits a tranquil pond where the red maples mirror themselves in the still water under blue skies—a photographer's dream. I stood there for several minutes, watching the perfect reflection dance with the gentle ripples.
Spot #1: Red Leaf Valley (红叶谷 Hóngyè Gǔ)
After passing the temple, we climbed higher to reach our first prime viewing location—Red Leaf Valley. Here, a small pond reflects the surrounding maples as the afternoon sun casts warm golden light across the scene. The interplay of light and shadow on the multi-colored leaves created an absolutely stunning visual feast.
Tourists gathered around, phones held high, trying to capture this fleeting beauty. I found myself reluctant to leave, soaking in the warmth of the late afternoon sun on my face while surrounded by this explosion of autumn colors. The moment felt suspended in time, a perfect snapshot of nature's grandeur.
Spot #2: Thousand Buddha Rocks (千佛岩 Qiānfó Yán)
Continuing along the main path toward the summit, we encountered maples blazing like fire everywhere we looked. Some leaves were still transitioning from yellow to red, creating that coveted "layered forest" effect where the entire mountainside appears painted in gradients of autumn colors.
The diversity here amazed me—common red maples, trident maples, five-point maples, Japanese maples, field maples, and Manchurian maples, totaling over 500,000 trees. No wonder Qixia stands as Jiangnan's premier maple viewing destination, drawing visitors from across the country every autumn. Yet each "best spot" is really just where the leaves happened to be most vibrant that particular day. Beauty, I realized, is truly in the eye of the beholder.
We discovered the most intensely red maples along a path in front of a temple. My friend couldn't wait to start photographing, and when I looked down, beautiful red leaves carpeted the ground. Picking one up, I realized the fallen leaves made perfect photo props—holding them against the backdrop of crimson trees created stunning compositions.
🎯 Photography Tip
What to Wear: White or dark-colored clothing creates the best contrast against red maples. Avoid orange or red unless you want to blend in with the foliage!
Some maples towered above us, and I discovered that looking up offered an entirely different perspective—the canopy overhead created a cathedral-like effect that was even more impressive than the ground-level views. Never forget to look up when surrounded by these ancient giants.
The Ultimate Photo Spot: Peach Blossom Lake (桃花湖 Táohuā Hú)
If you're hunting for that perfect Instagram-worthy maple shot, the entire mountain delivers, but Peach Blossom Lake offers something special. Just as we were heading toward the lake, we stumbled upon several maple trees in their peak crimson glory, surrounded by patches of green and orange for that perfect layered effect.
A group of enthusiastic aunties were already photographing there, and as my friend posed for pictures, they crowded around complimenting her, saying her outfit color matched the maples perfectly. The scene was pure joy—strangers bonding over shared appreciation of autumn beauty.
My friend sat on a stone ledge, and the composition was perfect—burning red maples behind her, a small pond reflecting the scene, with maple branches arching over the water creating mirror images below. It felt like stepping into a colorful fairy tale world, and I found myself marveling at nature's artistry. This was exactly what we'd come for, and missing it would have meant waiting another year.
Throughout our walk, I noticed families with children everywhere—the little ones' delighted faces as they held maple leaves, parents capturing these precious autumn memories. The mountain rang with laughter and joy as children experienced the magic of fall foliage for perhaps the first time.
Instagram Hotspot: The Red Gate
Near the main entrance, we discovered a Buddhist academy with a freshly painted bright red gate that looked almost too perfect to be real. The vibrant red complemented white outfits beautifully—a popular photo spot for visitors. We saved this for our exit, and sure enough, several young women were already posing there when we arrived.
The red gate against white clothing created stunning compositions. Qixia Mountain transforms with the seasons—green leaves giving way to crimson, then falling to blanket the ground, waiting for spring's renewal. Nature's own color palette puts on a show that keeps visitors returning year after year.
Final Thoughts
As I walked through those flaming maple forests, I understood why Qixia Mountain has captivated visitors for over a millennium. The autumn beauty here is simply unparalleled—crimson leaves against grey temple walls, monks wandering through scarlet groves, and that sense of Zen tranquility that permeates everything.
Qixia in autumn is poetry made visible, a painting come to life. Beyond the golden ginkgo trees that usually dominate autumn discussions, these fiery red maples create a different kind of magic altogether. The deeper the autumn chill, the more brilliant the red becomes—as if the trees themselves are putting on their finest show before winter's rest.
I found myself intoxicated by this charming scenery, losing track of time among the crimson leaves. Missing this window means waiting another full year, and trust me—once you've experienced Qixia's autumn, you won't want to miss it again.
🎯 Practical Information
Best Time to Visit: Late November to early December (peak maple season) Entry Fee: ~40 RMB (~$6 USD) during peak season Opening Hours: 7:00 AM - 5:30 PM Getting There: Take Metro Line 2 to Xianlin Center Station, then taxi (~20 RMB) or bus to Qixia Mountain Address: 南京市栖霞区栖霞街88号 (88 Qixia Street, Qixia District, Nanjing) Pro Tips: Arrive early (before 8 AM) to avoid crowds Weekdays are less crowded than weekends Wear comfortable walking shoes—the mountain paths involve significant climbing Bring a portable charger for your phone/camera White or dark clothing photographs best against red maples
Quick Reference Guide
Must-See Spots:Qixia Temple → Red Leaf Valley → Thousand Buddha Rocks → Peach Blossom Lake Best Photo Locations:Peach Blossom Lake pond area, Red Gate near entrance, temple reflections Maple Species:Red maple, Sweetgum, Trident maple, Five-point maple, Japanese maple, and more Estimated Walking:8-10 km for full circuit Food:Bring snacks and water, limited options on mountain