I stood before a 1,500-year-old Buddha statue that predates da Vinci's Mona Lisa by a millennium, and felt time itself pause. At Longmen Grottoes in Luoyang, I discovered the Lushena Buddha—a masterpiece carved into limestone cliffs during the Tang Dynasty, commissioned by Emperor Gaozong as a gift to his beloved Empress Wu Zetian. Unlike anything I'd seen in Europe, this 'Eastern Goddess' radiates a serenity that has witnessed the rise and fall of empires. Walking along the Yi River with friends, watching morning light illuminate her gentle smile, I understood why UNESCO calls this a treasure of human civilization. For just ¥100 (~$14), I experienced a profound connection to China's only female emperor and the timeless wisdom of Buddhist art.
Trip Overview
When: September 2021 (Autumn is ideal with clear skies)
Duration: 1 day
Travelers: With friends
Budget: ¥100 (~$14 USD)
Destination: Longmen Grottoes (龙门石窟 Lóngmén Shíkū), Fengxian Temple (奉先寺 Fèngxiān Sì), Lushena Buddha (卢舍那大佛 Lúshěnà Dàfó)
Transportation: Local bus or taxi from Luoyang city center
Day 1: Morning Arrival at the Gates of Eternity
When my friends and I arrived at Longmen Grottoes (龙门石窟 Lóngmén Shíkū) on a crisp September morning, I had no idea I was about to encounter one of the most spiritually powerful artworks in the world. The site—one of China's three great Buddhist cave temple complexes alongside Dunhuang's Mogao Caves and Datong's Yungang Grottoes—stretches along both banks of the Yi River (伊河 Yī Hé), creating a natural boundary that ancient craftsmen transformed into a sacred landscape.
🎯 Practical Info
Entry Fee: ¥90 (~$13 USD) for adults; discounted tickets available for students and seniors Best Time: Arrive at 8:00 AM when gates open to avoid crowds and capture the best light Location: 龙门石窟, 洛龙区 Longmen Avenue, Luoyang (about 13km south of city center) Getting There: Bus No. 53, 60, 71, 81, or taxi (~¥30/$4 from city center) Spend: 3-4 hours minimum to appreciate the site
Walking through the entrance, I immediately understood why UNESCO designated Longmen a World Heritage Site in 2000. Over 2,300 caves and niches honeycomb the limestone cliffs, containing more than 100,000 Buddhist statues ranging from thumb-sized figures to the monumental. But nothing prepared me for what awaited at Fengxian Temple.
The Crown Jewel: Fengxian Temple and the Lushena Buddha
Unlike the enclosed caves I'd seen elsewhere, Fengxian Temple (奉先寺 Fèngxiān Sì) is an open-air cliff carving—a bold architectural choice that allows natural light to dramatically illuminate the statues. As I climbed the stone stairs and turned the corner, I gasped. There she was: the Lushena Buddha (卢舍那大佛 Lúshěnà Dàfó), seated in meditation, her face turned slightly downward with a smile that seemed to contain 1,500 years of wisdom.
At 17 meters tall, the Buddha dominates the cliff face, surrounded by attendant bodhisattvas, disciples, and guardian kings. But what struck me most was her expression—that mysterious, gentle smile. Some travelers call her the 'Eastern Mona Lisa,' and standing there, I understood why. Yet unlike da Vinci's famous portrait created 500 years ago, this Buddha has watched over the Yi River for a millennium longer.
🏛️ Historical Insight
Construction Period: 650-683 CE during Tang Dynasty
Meaning of 'Lushena': In Sanskrit, 'Vairocana'—the Buddha of Universal Light who illuminates all realms
Unique Feature: Open-air cliff carving, unlike enclosed caves elsewhere at Longmen
Symbolism: Represents the universal light of Buddha's wisdom spreading to all sentient beings
The Empress Behind the Buddha: Wu Zetian's Legacy
As I learned from a local guide, the Lushena Buddha carries an extraordinary historical connection—to Wu Zetian (武则天 Wǔ Zétiān), the only woman in Chinese history to claim the title of Emperor. The statue was commissioned by Emperor Gaozong in 650 CE as a tribute to his beloved concubine-turned-empress. That year, Wu Zetian was 25 years old, at the height of her beauty and power.
Legend says the Emperor wanted to preserve Wu Zetian's beauty forever, transforming her into a divine image for worship. To fund this ambitious project, Wu Zetian donated 20,000 strings of coins—her entire year's makeup allowance—a gesture that demonstrated both her piety and her political savvy. Walking around the base of the statue, I couldn't help but imagine the 25-year-old empress-to-be, her features now immortalized in limestone, watching over the river as dynasties rose and fell.
Local people in Luoyang still sometimes call the statue 'Wu Zetian's Image' (武后像 Wǔhòu Xiàng), a name that has persisted for over 1,300 years. To them, Lushena and Wu Zetian are inseparable—the divine and the human, the eternal and the temporal, merged in stone.
👑 Empress Wu Zetian Quick Facts
Lived: 624-705 CE Reign: 690-705 CE as Emperor of Zhou Dynasty (self-proclaimed) Only female emperor in China's 4,000-year history Her name 'Zhao': Created by combining characters for sun (日) and moon (月), symbolizing her illumination of the heavens Legacy: Known for both wisdom and ruthlessness; expanded the empire and elevated Buddhism
Reflections on Time: 1,500 Years of Silence
Standing on the stone platform facing the Buddha, watching the Yi River flow past as it has for millennia, I found myself contemplating the nature of time. Is 1,500 years long or short? Wu Zetian has been dust for over 1,300 years. The Tang Dynasty she ruled fell centuries ago. Yet here sits the Lushena Buddha, unchanged, her smile as serene today as when craftsmen first chiseled the final details in 683 CE.
My friend turned to me and asked, 'What has actually changed?' I looked from the ancient statue to the modern city visible across the river, then back to the Buddha's eyes. 'Everything and nothing,' I replied. The empires have fallen, the technologies have transformed, but the river still flows, the sun still rises over the eastern hills, and that smile—that mysterious, knowing smile—still offers the same message: universal light, universal compassion, universal peace.
Beyond the Grottoes: Ancient Luoyang Reborn
As the afternoon sun began to lower, my friends and I took one last look at the Lushena Buddha, then walked back toward the entrance. About 13 kilometers north, the ancient Sui-Tang capital city once stood—now buried beneath modern Luoyang. But in one corner of the rebuilt city, local authorities have reconstructed an imperial palace complex based on historical records and archaeological findings, attempting to resurrect the glory of Wu Zetian's era.
I wondered what the Lushena Buddha would think of these reconstructions—memory made concrete, history commodified for tourists. Would she smile that same gentle smile, understanding that humans need to touch the past to feel connected to it? Or would she see the irony: we build replicas of what was, while the real treasure—her 1,500-year-old serenity—sits largely unnoticed by visitors rushing to take selfies?
💡 Pro Tips for Visiting
Best Photo Time: Early morning (8-9 AM) for soft light on the Buddha's face Guided Tours: Available at entrance for ¥100-150 (~$14-21); worth it for historical context Audio Guides: Rent for ¥30 (~$4) with deposit What to Bring: Comfortable walking shoes, sunscreen, water Nearby: Combine with a visit to Luoyang Museum or the reconstructed Sui-Tang Palace Evening Option: The site offers night tours with dramatic lighting (check seasonal availability)
A Final Thought
As I boarded the bus back to Luoyang, I took one last look at the distant cliffs where the Lushena Buddha sat, still smiling. I thought about how her face had witnessed the rise and fall of empires, the coming and going of countless visitors, the transformation of a riverside grotto into a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Unlike the Mona Lisa, protected behind bulletproof glass in the Louvre, the Lushena Buddha endures the elements—rain, sun, wind, and the breath of millions of visitors. Yet her smile remains unchanged, offering the same message of universal light and compassion that it did when Wu Zetian was still a 25-year-old empress-to-be.
I hope that smile continues for another 1,500 years, transcending time and becoming truly eternal. For in that serene expression, I found something I wasn't expecting: a moment of peace in our chaotic modern world, a connection to something larger than myself, and a reminder that some things—wisdom, compassion, and the pursuit of enlightenment—truly are timeless.
Quick Reference Guide
Destination Longmen Grottoes (龙门石窟), Luoyang, Henan Province Entry Fee ¥90 (~$13 USD), discounts for students/seniors Hours 8:00 AM - 6:00 PM (last entry 5:00 PM) Duration 3-4 hours minimum Getting There Bus 53, 60, 71, 81 or taxi (~¥30/$4 from center) Best Time Early morning (8-9 AM) for best light and fewer crowds Must-See Fengxian Temple and the Lushena Buddha English Name Longmen Grottoes / Dragon Gate Grottoes Chinese Address 河南省洛阳市洛龙区龙门大道 (for taxi)