I spent nine unforgettable days exploring Henan, the cradle of Chinese civilization where emperors rose and dynasties fell for over two millennia. Walking through the legendary Shaolin Temple where monks have practiced kung fu for 1,500 years, standing in awe before the colossal Longmen Grottoes carved into riverside cliffs, and discovering hidden mountain villages reachable only by treacherous cliffside roads—this journey took me deep into the soul of China. From the birthplace of Chinese Buddhism to ancient capital cities that shaped Asian history, Henan revealed layers of history I never knew existed. If you want to understand where China truly began, this is the journey for you.
Trip Overview
When: September 2024
Duration: 9 days
Travelers: With friends (12 people)
Budget: ~6,000 RMB (~$850 USD) per person
Transportation: Flight to Zhengzhou + Rental cars
Day 1: Arrival and Shaolin Temple
When our flight touched down at Zhengzhou Xinzheng International Airport (新郑机场) right on schedule at 9:30 AM, I felt a surge of excitement. Twelve of us—friends who had planned this trip for months—were finally here, ready to explore what locals call the "Cradle of Chinese Civilization."
We picked up two rental cars and hit the road immediately. Our first destination: Dengfeng (登封), home to the legendary Shaolin Temple (少林寺, Shàolín Sì).
Standing before the ancient temple gates, I couldn't believe I was actually here. Shaolin Temple sits deep in the Songshan Mountains (嵩山, Sōngshān), founded in 495 AD during the Northern Wei Dynasty. The name literally means "Temple of the Young Forest," referencing the dense woods surrounding it. As the birthplace of Zen Buddhism and Chinese kung fu, this place has shaped martial arts culture worldwide.
The main gate, with its ancient cypress trees and imposing stone lions, looked just like the temple Sun Wukong transformed into in "Journey to the West"—a cartoon I watched as a child. Suddenly, the legends felt real.
🎯 Practical Info
Entry Fee: ¥80 (~$11 USD) Best Time: Afternoon to catch the martial arts performance Distance: 106 km from Zhengzhou Airport Address: Shaolin Temple, Dengfeng City, Henan Province (河南省登封市少林寺)
Just as we arrived, we caught the afternoon martial arts performance at the Wushu Performance Hall. Watching young monks demonstrate incredible feats of strength, agility, and focus, I understood why Shaolin kung fu has inspired millions worldwide. The speed, precision, and seemingly impossible moves left me breathless.
Walking through the temple complex, I discovered ancient stone inscriptions everywhere, each telling stories of centuries past. The massive cooking pots (镬, huò) used to feed hundreds of monks still sit in the courtyard, reminders of the temple's grand scale.
In the monks' training hall, I noticed the floor was worn uneven from countless hours of practice. This wasn't a tourist attraction—it was a living, breathing center of martial arts tradition.
An ancient well, built during the Tang Dynasty, still provides water to the temple. Originally for monks, it now serves nearby residents too. Despite centuries of repairs, it remains perfectly functional—a testament to ancient Chinese engineering.
Our final stop was the Pagoda Forest (塔林, Tǎlín), a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This serene forest of 241 stone pagodas, built between 791 AD and 1803 AD, serves as the burial ground for generations of abbots. Each pagoda represents a monk's life and achievements, with varying heights and designs. Standing among these ancient towers, I felt the weight of history—over 1,000 years of spiritual devotion preserved in stone.
That evening, we drove 75 km to Luoyang (洛阳), where we stayed at Tangyun Holiday Hotel. Finding dinner proved challenging—we wandered through the area near Longmen Grottoes before finally discovering a local restaurant. After a few drinks, we joined locals in a plaza near the ticket office for some evening activities. Some of us tried cracking whips, a traditional local pastime. In the excitement, one friend lost his glasses without realizing it (perhaps due to the wine!). Amazingly, he found them the next morning.
Day 2: Longmen Grottoes and White Horse Temple
I woke up early, eager to explore Longmen Grottoes (龙门石窟, Lóngmén Shíkū), located just 50 meters from our hotel. This UNESCO World Heritage Site contains the largest collection of Chinese stone carving art, spanning over 1,400 years of creation. With 2345 caves and niches housing more than 110,000 statues, it's overwhelming in scale and artistry.
⚠️ Watch Out!
At the entrance, locals may offer "discounted" tickets. These are scams—they only take you to view the grottoes from the opposite riverbank. Always buy official tickets at the main entrance.
Walking across the Yi River Bridge (伊河大桥), I started my journey southward along the cliffside paths. The grottoes stretch for one kilometer along both banks of the Yi River, carved directly into the limestone cliffs.
I climbed up and down the wooden walkways, exploring cave after cave: Yuwang Pool (禹王池), Moya Three Buddha Niches (摩崖三佛龛), Ten Thousand Buddha Cave (万佛洞), Guyang Cave (古阳洞)—each more impressive than the last.
The highlight was Cave 1280, Fengxian Temple (奉先寺, Fèngxiān Sì), featuring the massive Lushena Buddha (卢舍那大佛, Lúshěnà Dàfó). Standing 17 meters tall, this colossal statue was commissioned by Empress Wu Zetian and allegedly carved in her likeness. The craftsmanship is extraordinary—every detail from the serene expression to the flowing robes shows mastery that defies the passage of 1,300 years.
Cave after cave, statue after statue—I was dizzy with wonder. Over 1,400 years of devotion, countless artisans devoting their lives to these carvings. The scale and dedication humbles you.
Crossing the Man Shui Bridge, I reached the East Bank, also known as Xiangshan (香山). From here, the view of the West Bank grottoes across the river is spectacular.
The East Bank features its own collection of caves stretching 500 meters along the cliff. Though damaged by time, the remaining statues still convey remarkable spiritual presence.
I made a solo pilgrimage to the tomb of Bai Juyi (白居易, Bái Jūyì), the famous Tang Dynasty poet known as the "Poet Demon." At just 16, he traveled from Jiangnan to Chang'an with his poetry collection. When he met the famous critic Gu Kuang, Gu joked, "Rice is expensive in Chang'an—it's not easy to live here!" But after reading Bai's famous lines "The grass spreads lush green, / Year after year it withers and flourishes. / Wildfire cannot consume it, / Spring winds revive it," Gu exclaimed, "With poetry like this, living here is easy indeed!"
Bai Juyi, who rose to become a Hanlin Academy scholar, died in Luoyang in 846 AD and was buried here on Xiangshan. His famous works include "Song of Everlasting Sorrow" (长恨歌), "The Old Charcoal Seller" (卖炭翁), and "The Pipa Player" (琵琶行).
Crossing back over the Yi River Bridge, I exited the site. This was my third of China's Four Great Grottoes—I've now visited Yungang, Longmen, and Mogao. Only Maijishan in Gansu remains. When will I complete the set?
Our second stop was White Horse Temple (白马寺, Báimǎ Sì), 26 km away. This is China's first Buddhist temple, founded in 68 AD—over 1,900 years ago.
The story goes that in 64 AD, Emperor Ming of Han dreamed of a golden man. Learning of Buddhism in the West, he sent envoys to India. They met Indian monks Kasyapa Matanga and Dharmaratna in the Kushan Empire, who agreed to return with them. White horses carried Buddhist scriptures and statues back to Luoyang. To commemorate their contribution, the emperor built this temple.
🎯 Practical Info
Entry Fee: ¥35 (~$5 USD) Highlights: Qiyun Pagoda, Qingliang Terrace Distance: 26 km from Longmen Grottoes
The temple bears inscriptions reading "Ancestral Court" (祖庭) and "Source of Buddhism" (释源)—distinctions no other temple in China carries. This unique status makes White Horse Temple irreplaceable in Chinese Buddhist history.
Though Buddhism originated in India, it truly flourished in China. From the capital region to remote villages, temples and pagodas spread across the land, all tracing back to this humble temple established by Emperor Ming.
White Horse Temple later spread Buddhism to Korea, Japan, and Southeast Asia, then to Europe and America. In the late 19th century, Japan donated funds to rebuild the temple's bell tower. Thailand, India, and Myanmar have all built their own-style Buddhist halls here, making it the only temple in the world featuring Chinese, Indian, Burmese, and Thai architecture side by side.
After paying our respects at this holy site, we drove 165 km to our next destination: Jiaozuo's Yuntai Mountain (云台山).
After dinner, our group—still energized despite the day's travels—unexpectedly joined locals for evening square dancing in the town square. Sometimes the best travel moments are the unplanned ones.
Day 3: Yuntai Mountain
I slept soundly that night, exhausted but content. Waking up in the quiet mountain town beneath Yuntai Mountain was refreshing.
The town exists purely for tourism, so breakfast options were abundant. As always, I ventured out alone to find local specialties—seeking dishes I'd never tried before is one of my travel rituals.
🎯 Practical Info
Entry Fee: ¥120 (~$17 USD), valid for 2 days Highlights: Red Stone Gorge, Phoenix Ridge, Diecai Cave, Waterfall Valley Distance: 81 km from Yuntai Mountain to Wanxian Mountain
Today's itinerary included exploring Yuntai Mountain's stunning geological formations: Red Stone Gorge (红石峡), Phoenix Ridge (凤凰岭), Diecai Cave (叠彩洞), and Tanpu Gorge (潭瀑峡).
Day 4-7: Mountain Adventures Continue
The journey continued through some of Henan's most spectacular landscapes:
Day 4: Wanxian Mountain & Guoliang Village
We drove 81 km to Wanxian Mountain (万仙山) to visit Guoliang Village (郭亮村), famous for its Cliff Corridor—a road carved directly into the mountainside by villagers over five years. We stayed at Maosheng Hotel in Guoliang Village.
Day 5: Linzhou Grand Canyon
Today we explored the Taihang Grand Canyon (太行大峡谷) in Linzhou (林州), staying in a local guesthouse called "Flower Inn."
Day 6: Anyang Ancient Ruins
We visited Yinxu (殷墟) in Anyang (安阳), China's oldest confirmed capital city and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This was the capital of the late Shang Dynasty, featuring oracle bones and ancient bronze artifacts. Later, we visited Yunmeng Mountain (云梦山) before driving 220 km to Kaifeng (开封) for the night, where we enjoyed an evening stroll through Qingming Shanghe Park (清明上河园).
🎯 Practical Info
Yinxu Entry: ¥70 (~$10 USD) Qingming Shanghe Park: Evening tickets recommended for the lantern show Distance: 85 km from Anyang to Kaifeng
Day 7: Kaifeng's Imperial Past
Our final full day took us to Kaifeng's famous sites: Daxiangguo Temple (大相国寺), Kaifeng Fu (开封府)—where Judge Bao once presided—and the Memorial Temple of Lord Bao (包公祠). In the afternoon, we drove 85 km to Xinzheng Airport for our 4:20 PM flight home.
Quick Reference Guide
Complete Itinerary
D1: Zhengzhou Airport → Shaolin Temple (106 km) → Luoyang (75 km) D2: Longmen Grottoes → White Horse Temple (26 km) → Yuntai Mountain (165 km) D3: Yuntai Mountain (Red Stone Gorge, Phoenix Ridge, Diecai Cave, Waterfall Valley) → Wanxian Mountain (81 km) D4: Wanxian Mountain (Guoliang Village) → Linzhou (69 km) D5: Linzhou Taihang Grand Canyon → Anyang (77 km) D6: Anyang Yinxu → Yunmeng Mountain → Kaifeng (220 km) D7: Kaifeng (Daxiangguo Temple, Kaifeng Fu) → Xinzheng Airport (85 km)
Budget Breakdown (Per Person)
Total: ~6,000 RMB (~$850 USD) Accommodation: ~200 RMB/night (~$28 USD) Food: ~100 RMB/day (~$14 USD) Transportation: Rental cars + gas Attractions: ~500 RMB total (~$70 USD)
Best Time to Visit
September and October offer ideal weather—warm days, cool nights, and autumn colors in the mountains. Spring (April-May) is also excellent.
Getting There
Airport: Zhengzhou Xinzheng International Airport (新郑机场) Flight time from Nanjing: ~1 hour Car rental: Available at airport; essential for this itinerary
Pro Tips
Book hotels in advance, especially near popular sites like Longmen Grottoes Bring comfortable walking shoes—lots of stairs and uneven terrain Download offline maps—some mountain areas have poor signal Learn basic Mandarin phrases or use translation apps Carry cash—some rural areas don't accept mobile payments
Reflections
As I boarded my flight home, I found myself reflecting on Henan's place in Chinese history. There's an old saying: "Forty years of history look to Shenzhen, one hundred to Shanghai, one thousand to Beijing, two thousand to Henan." While different versions debate which region is oldest, Henan remains the ancestral homeland for countless Chinese people.
Since the division of the Jin State into Han, Zhao, and Wei in the 4th century BC, China's political and military center shifted to Henan's superior geography. Dynasties rose and fell here. Humanity flourished here. To forget your origins is to lose your way home.
Henan's history isn't just legend—it's the foundation of Chinese civilization itself.