I spent seven magical days exploring the southern coast of Hainan with my family, discovering hidden gems far beyond the tourist crowds of Sanya. From the pristine shores of Xiangshui Bay to the fascinating floating fishing villages of the Danjia people, from swimming with dolphins at Fenjiezhou Island to watching my son chase waves at Daidai Island—this journey revealed a side of Hainan that most international travelers never see. If you're looking for an authentic tropical paradise where your kids can run free and you can still find moments of tranquility, Lingshui County delivers an unforgettable family experience.
Trip Overview
When: April (Spring)
Duration: 7 days
Travelers: Family with young child
Budget: ~10,000 RMB per person (~$1,400 USD)
Transportation: Flight to Sanya + Car rental
Day 1: The Journey Begins
When my son Qi Xiaobao sighed and told me, "We haven't stayed in a hotel for so long," I knew it was time for another adventure. Even though we'd just completed a 2,000-kilometer road trip two months earlier, in a child's mind, two months might as well be two years. That innocent complaint became the catalyst for our Hainan escape.
My wife and I have visited Sanya countless times since 2010, almost annually. Even our four-year-old had been twice before. This time, we wanted something different. Instead of the familiar beaches of Yalong Bay or Haitang Bay, we set our sights on Xiangshui Bay (Xiāngshuǐ Wān) in Lingshui Li Autonomous County—about 80 kilometers northeast of Sanya.
🎯 Getting There
Flight: Beijing Capital Airport (PEK) to Sanya Phoenix Airport (SYX) Transfer: 1-hour drive from airport to Xiangshui Bay Best Time: April offers perfect weather before the summer heat
I watched my son's eyes light up as he spotted airplanes through the terminal window at Beijing Capital Airport's Terminal 3. He squatted there like a village chief admiring his flock of chickens—pure contentment on his face. That moment alone made the trip worthwhile.
The flight offered spectacular views as we circled over Sanya Bay. Through the window, I spotted the iconic Nanhai Guanyin statue—the massive Buddhist figure standing guard over the South China Sea. Local legend says typhoons have avoided Hainan since its installation. Whether you believe in such things or not, there's something comforting about traditions that give people peace of mind.
Day 2-3: Xiangshui Bay - The Extra-Large Blue Margarita
When I first laid eyes on Xiangshui Bay, I understood why we chose this place. Unlike the manicured beaches of Sanya, this coastline feels wild and untouched. The waves crash harder here, the rocks create natural formations, and the shoreline curves and dips in ways that make every view feel like a discovery.
We stayed at the Arcadia Resort, which offered five-star amenities at a fraction of Sanya prices. The hotel sits right on the beach, and despite the rocky coastline making swimming challenging, we found ourselves with entire stretches of sand to ourselves.
🎯 Where to Stay
Arcadia Resort Xiangshui Bay: ~600-800 RMB/night (~$85-115 USD) Location: Beachfront with multiple pools Why Here: Less crowded than Sanya, family-friendly facilities Nearby: Fenjiezhou Island (20 min), Nanwan Monkey Island (30 min)
The sea here is impossibly blue—like an extra-large blue margarita cocktail, as my wife put it. She judges destinations by their photogenic qualities, and her camera was working overtime. My son, meanwhile, was in his element. He ran tirelessly along the shoreline, chasing waves and kicking up spray. The boy is definitely solar-powered—the hotter it gets, the more energy he seems to have.
The second morning brought rain, transforming the ocean from deep blue margarita to pale lemon sea. The downpour acted like a master bartender, mixing a completely different drink. Where yesterday was bold and intense, today was light and delicate. Both moods, both beautiful in their own way.
After two sunny days, the evening light painted the sea in violet hues. The waves caught the sunset and transformed into ribbons of amethyst. My wife climbed onto a rocky outcrop, surrounded by crashing waves, to pose for photos. I couldn't resist capturing the moment—the color, the light, her dress, everything aligned perfectly.
Day 4: Fenjiezhou Island - Where the Boundary Meets the Sea
Fenjiezhou Island (Fēnjièzhōu Dǎo) sits just off the coast of Lingshui, supposedly marking the dividing line between Hainan's northern and southern climates. But for me, it marked the boundary between ordinary and extraordinary.
The island feels more like the Maldives than mainland China. Walking along the stone pathways that circle the island, I half-expected to see overwater bungalows around every bend. The tropical vegetation, the turquoise water, the sense of being somewhere truly removed from everyday life—it's all here.
🎯 Fenjiezhou Island Tips
Entry: 132 RMB (~$19 USD) including boat transfer Best Time: Morning to avoid afternoon heat Highlights: Marine aquarium, dolphin encounters, diving Duration: Half to full day Pro Tip: Book dolphin encounter in advance
The marine aquarium became an instant hit with my son. Giant sea turtles—each probably older than me—glided through the water with prehistoric grace. Massive groupers, fatter than pigs, lurked in their tanks. Colorful tropical fish darted about, so plump and energetic they seemed ready to burst through the glass during feeding time.
The highlight, though, was the dolphin encounter. Watching my son's face as he touched the smooth skin of a dolphin—pure wonder. He posed for photos with his trademark peace sign, already a seasoned traveler at four years old.
Day 5: The Danjia Fishing Villages - Life on the Water
No trip to Lingshui would be complete without experiencing the Danjia (Dànjiā) fishing villages—the famous "floating cities" where generations have lived on the sea. These aren't actually ethnic minorities but rather a distinct community of sea nomads whose history stretches back centuries.
We arrived at Nanwan Monkey Island, but the real show was the view from the cable car. Looking down, I saw what can only be described as a floating neighborhood—rows of red-roofed houses built on stilts above the water, connected by wooden walkways, surrounded by fish farms and boat channels.
🎯 Danjia Fishing Village Experience
Location: Nanwan Monkey Island area, Lingshui Boat Tour: 150-200 RMB (~$22-28 USD) for family Activities: Starfish catching, sea urchin harvesting Must-Try: Fish porridge at floating restaurant—"world's best" Duration: 2-3 hours
We hired a local fishing boat to take us through the maze of floating homes. The boat navigated narrow channels between the houses, and I marveled at this entire community built on water. The saying goes: "Home is the boat, the boat is home"—and you can feel the truth of that here.
Our captain took us to a shallow area famous for sea stars and sea urchins. Armed with a long-handled net, I became the family fisherman. One scoop brought up three starfish—my son danced with excitement. We collected sea stars, sea urchins, and conchs, examining them before carefully returning them to the water. We were just visitors here, after all. The real residents had been living this way for centuries.
After our sea harvest, we docked at one of the floating restaurants for lunch. The famous fish porridge—locals call it the "world's best"—lived up to its reputation. Rich, savory, and deeply satisfying after a morning on the water. I was too busy eating to take photos, which tells you everything you need to know.
Day 6: Nanwan Monkey Island & Daidai Island
The cable car to Nanwan Monkey Island (Nánwān Hóu Dǎo) offered the same spectacular views of the fishing villages below, but once we arrived, my son's enthusiasm waned. We had warned him that the monkeys might grab his legs if he misbehaved—perhaps too effective a threat. He walked through the park with a forced smile, clearly ready to leave.
The monkeys themselves put on quite a show—pairs grooming each other with obvious affection, others sampling flowers like connoisseurs tasting wine. But my son wasn't having it. We made a quick exit and headed to the main event: Daidai Island (Dāidāi Dǎo).
🎯 Daidai Island Essentials
Entry: Combined ticket with Monkey Island (~200 RMB/~$28 USD) Style: Instagram-worthy, minimalist tropical paradise Best For: Beach photos, swimming, relaxation Facilities: Limited—bring water and snacks Pro Tip: Visit in late afternoon for best light
Daidai Island is the new social media darling—an "Instagram island" with pristine beaches, coconut groves, and that perfect tropical aesthetic. No commercial developments, just palm trees, sea breeze, turquoise water, and endless sky.
My son immediately reverted to his default beach mode—chasing waves, getting soaked, and generally ignoring our calls to stay dry. We had packed multiple outfits, but it didn't matter. He was determined to embrace the ocean fully.
With our son happily occupied, my wife and I finally had a moment to ourselves. We took photos, enjoyed the silence, and remembered what it was like to travel before parenthood. But honestly? The photos looked better once our son joined us. There's truth to the saying that motherhood comes with its own glow—put a child in the frame, and everything becomes more beautiful.
Day 7: Homeward Bound
Seven days passed like a dream. As we packed our bags, my wife told our son: "The trip is over. If you work hard at school and we work hard at our jobs, we can travel again soon." He looked up with those expectant eyes, already plotting our next adventure.
This journey to Hainan's southern coast gave us something precious—a week of pure family time away from the tourist crowds of Sanya. We discovered Xiangshui Bay's wild beauty, experienced the unique culture of the Danjia sea nomads, and watched our son form memories that will last a lifetime.
Quick Reference Guide
Getting There
Fly: Sanya Phoenix International Airport (SYX) has direct flights from major Chinese cities From Airport: Rent a car or hire a driver (~200 RMB/~$28 USD to Xiangshui Bay) Best Season: April-May or October-November (avoid summer heat and typhoon season)
Where to Stay
Xiangshui Bay: Arcadia Resort—family-friendly, beachfront, excellent value Alternative: Stay in Sanya and do day trips (1-hour drive each way)
Budget Breakdown (Per Person)
Flight: ~3,000-5,000 RMB (~$420-700 USD) depending on season Hotel: ~500-800 RMB/night (~$70-115 USD) Food: ~200-300 RMB/day (~$28-42 USD) Activities: ~1,000-1,500 RMB total (~$140-210 USD) Total: ~10,000 RMB (~$1,400 USD) for 7 days
Must-Do Activities
✓ Xiangshui Bay beach hopping (free) ✓ Fenjiezhou Island marine aquarium and dolphin encounter ✓ Danjia fishing village boat tour and lunch ✓ Nanwan Monkey Island cable car ride ✓ Daidai Island beach time
What to Pack
Multiple swimsuits (kids will live in them) Strong sunscreen (SPF 50+) Hats and UV-protective clothing Waterproof phone case Snacks for island day trips
Useful Phrases
"Wǒ yào qù Xiāngshuǐ Wān" = I want to go to Xiangshui Bay "Duōshǎo qián?" = How much? "Zhè ge hěn hǎo chī" = This is delicious "Wǒmen yǒu xiǎo hái" = We have a child (useful for getting help)