I spent five unforgettable days exploring Guilin's hidden cultural treasures, and the moment I stepped into the Xiaoyao Tower overlooking the Li River, I understood why scholars and poets have been drawn here for over a millennium. Walking through the Zhuangyuan Corridor lined with statues of Guilin's historical scholars, standing before an ancient stone tablet bearing the calligraphy of the legendary Tang Dynasty calligrapher Yan Zhenqing, and watching the karst mountains fade into the mist from this thousand-year-old vantage point—these moments revealed a side of Guilin that goes far beyond the typical tourist trail. If you're seeking authentic Chinese history and culture away from the crowds, this journey delivers experiences that will stay with you long after you return home.
Trip Overview
When: October (Autumn)
Duration: 5 days
Travelers: With friends
Budget: ~3,000 RMB (~$420 USD) per person
Transportation: Local bus + Taxi
The Hidden Gem: Xiaoyao Tower (逍遥楼)
The ancient stone tablet with "逍遥楼" inscribed in Yan Zhenqing's calligraphy
After visiting Guilin multiple times over the years, I had somehow never noticed the Xiaoyao Tower standing quietly along the Li River. This trip, I made it my mission to find it. What I discovered was far more than just another reconstructed tourist attraction—it was a portal to over a thousand years of Chinese literary and cultural history.
The tower sits at the intersection of Jiefang Road and Jiefang Bridge, part of the larger Dongxi Lane Historical and Cultural District. To reach it, you must first pass through something called the "Zhuangyuan Corridor" (状元廊)—a covered walkway that immediately transported me back in time.
The stunning view of the Li River from Xiaoyao Tower
🎯 Practical Info
Location: Jiefang Road, near Jiefang Bridge, Guilin Entry Fee: Free Best Time: Early morning (8-9 AM) or sunset Duration: 1-2 hours Chinese Name: 逍遥楼 (Xiāoyáo Lóu)
Walking Through the Zhuangyuan Corridor
The corridor is deceptively long, providing welcome shade and shelter from Guilin's occasional rain showers. As I walked, I noticed life-sized bronze statues standing on either side—each one representing a famous historical figure from Guilin's rich scholarly past. There were top scholars (状元, zhuangyuan) from imperial examinations, renowned poets, and influential thinkers who shaped not just Guilin's history, but China's cultural heritage.
The covered Zhuangyuan Corridor leading to Xiaoyao Tower
I found myself stopping at each statue, reading the inscriptions about their lives and achievements. One figure that particularly caught my attention was a poet who had been exiled to Guilin during the Tang Dynasty, only to find inspiration in this beautiful landscape and compose verses that are still studied in Chinese schools today. Walking this corridor, I felt I was following in the footsteps of centuries of scholars who had come seeking knowledge, inspiration, and perhaps a bit of solace.
The corridor stretches quite a distance, offering protection from sun and rain
A Thousand Years of History: The Story of Xiaoyao Tower
Stepping out of the corridor, I finally saw the tower itself. The Xiaoyao Tower was originally built in 621 AD during the Tang Dynasty's Wude era, commissioned by Li Jing, who was then the military governor of Guizhou. He constructed "Zicheng" (子城) with Duxiu Peak at its center, and the Xiaoyao Tower was built atop the eastern wall of this city fortification, serving as both a watchtower and a gathering place for the city's elite.
What struck me most was learning that this tower has been destroyed and rebuilt countless times over the centuries. It has weathered wars, natural disasters, and the passage of time. Yet each time it fell, it was reconstructed—testament to its importance in Guilin's cultural identity.
The reconstructed city wall, faithful to historical records
The current structure, rebuilt between 2015 and 2016, is a two-story pavilion with three-tiered eaves, designed in authentic Tang Dynasty architectural style. While the building itself is new, it houses something truly ancient—a stone tablet that dates back to the original tower.
📚 Historical Timeline
621 AD: Original construction during Tang Dynasty Mid-20th Century: Original tablet damaged during cultural upheaval 1972: Tablet restored by Guilin Cultural Relics Bureau using old rubbings 2015-2016: Tower reconstructed; tablet moved from Qixing Park back to its original home
The Treasure: Yan Zhenqing's Calligraphy
Inside a small pavilion near the entrance, I found what many consider the tower's greatest treasure—the original stone tablet inscribed with "逍遥楼" (Xiaoyao Tower) in the handwriting of Yan Zhenqing (颜真卿, Yán Zhēnqīng, 709-785 AD), one of China's most celebrated calligraphers from the Tang Dynasty.
The pavilion housing the ancient stone tablet
Standing before this tablet, I felt a profound connection to history. The characters are powerful and graceful, embodying the essence of Yan's distinctive style. Although the tablet suffered damage during the cultural disruptions of the 1960s, it was meticulously restored in 1972. For decades, it was kept safe in Qixing Park's Putuo Mountain area before finally returning to its rightful place here.
The ancient stone tablet bearing Yan Zhenqing's calligraphy
The View That Inspired Poets
The true magic of Xiaoyao Tower reveals itself when you look out from its vantage point. From here, the Li River stretches before you, with the distinctive karst mountains rising dramatically in the distance—a view that has remained virtually unchanged for a thousand years.
The majestic Xiaoyao Tower against the Guilin skyline
It's easy to understand why this spot became a pilgrimage site for literati. Song Zhiwen (宋之问), a famous Tang Dynasty court poet who was exiled to Guilin, stood exactly where I was standing and wrote:"逍遥楼上望乡关，绿水泓澄云雾间。北去衡阳二千里，无因雁足系书还。" (From Xiaoyao Tower I gaze toward my homeland, Where green waters blend with clouds and mist. Two thousand li north to Hengyang, Yet no wild goose brings letters back.)
His poem captures the bittersweet feeling of exile while marveling at Guilin's beauty—a sentiment that resonated with me as I stood there, even though I was thousands of miles from home by choice.
Xiaoyao Tower facing the Li River—poets' inspiration for centuries
After Song Zhiwen, countless others added their voices to the chorus. Fan Chengda and Liu Kezhuang from the Song Dynasty, Fang Furuo and Li Yanbi, Li Zengbai and Zhang Shi—all composed poems here. The Yuan Dynasty brought Bedu Luding and Wu Boyin, while Yang Fang represented the Ming Dynasty's contributions.
The Li River and Jiefang Bridge visible from the tower
One poem that particularly moved me was written by the Yuan Dynasty poet Bedu Luding:"身世云霄上，飘然思不穷。睛山排翠阔，暮霭閟琳宫。牧笛殘云外，渔歌落照中。蓬莱凝望眼，隐隐海霞红。" (My spirit rises above the clouds, My thoughts drift endlessly free. Green mountains stretch in the clear light, Evening mist encloses the jade palace. Herdsmen's flutes float beyond lingering clouds, Fishermen's songs drift in the sunset glow. I gaze toward Penglai's fairy isles, Where faintly crimson sea-clouds glow.)
💡 Pro Tips for Visitors
Photography: Best shots at golden hour (sunrise/sunset) when the karst mountains glow Combine with: Dongxi Lane historical district for a full day of cultural exploration Evening visit: The tower is beautifully illuminated at night Nearby: Walk along the Li River promenade after your visit Address: 逍遥楼, 解放路, 桂林市 (Xiāoyáo Lóu, Jiěfàng Lù, Guìlín Shì)
Inside the Tower
Though the second floor was closed during my visit, the ground floor offered fascinating exhibits. Most impressive was a detailed bronze relief map showing the original layout of Xiaoyao Tower and the ancient city wall—Zicheng—that once surrounded this area.
The ground floor hall—second floor was closed during my visit
Standing before this map, I could visualize how the ancient city was organized, with Duxiu Peak at its heart and defensive walls protecting its perimeter. The Xiaoyao Tower wasn't just a pretty building—it was a strategic watchtower guarding the eastern approach to the city.
Bronze relief showing the ancient city wall and Xiaoyao Tower layout
As I examined the intricately carved columns and traditional wooden architecture, I appreciated how faithfully the reconstruction had been executed. Every detail—from the upturned eaves to the decorative brackets—reflects authentic Tang Dynasty design principles.
The impressive columns of Xiaoyao Tower
Traditional Tang Dynasty architectural details
The two-story, three-tiered pavilion design
Reflections: Why This Matters
As my visit came to an end, I found myself reflecting on what makes places like Xiaoyao Tower special. Yes, it's been rebuilt many times. Yes, it's technically a modern reconstruction. But the stone tablet is real. The view is real. And more importantly, the cultural legacy—the poems, the stories, the thousands of years of human experience—is absolutely real.
In an era where so many travel experiences feel manufactured for Instagram, there's something deeply meaningful about standing where Tang Dynasty exiles stood, where Song Dynasty scholars composed verses, where Yuan and Ming poets found inspiration. You don't need to be a literature scholar or history buff to feel it—you just need to stand there, look out at the mountains, and let the place speak to you.
That evening, as my friends and I sat at a local restaurant overlooking the river, I raised my glass of Guilin's famous rice wine to the poets of the past. They came here seeking beauty, and they found it. I came here seeking their story, and I found that too—along with something unexpected: a deeper appreciation for how places can connect us across time and culture.
If you're planning a trip to Guilin, by all means, visit the Reed Flute Cave. Take the Li River cruise. See the stunning scenery that has made this region famous worldwide. But save an hour or two for Xiaoyao Tower. Walk through the Zhuangyuan Corridor. Stand before Yan Zhenqing's calligraphy. And when you climb to the viewing platform and see those misty mountains stretching into the distance, remember the poets who stood there before you, finding words for beauty that transcends language.
Quick Reference Guide
Getting There
From Guilin Railway Station: Bus 2, 16, or taxi (~15 minutes) From downtown: Walking distance from Zhengyang Pedestrian Street Chinese address: 逍遥楼, 解放路, 桂林市 (show to taxi driver)
Best Times to Visit
Spring (March-May): Pleasant weather, less crowded Autumn (September-November): Clear skies, best visibility Avoid: Chinese National Day (Oct 1-7) and major holidays
What to Bring
Camera with zoom lens for mountain photography Comfortable walking shoes Translation app (limited English signage) Cash for nearby street food vendors
Nearby Attractions
Dongxi Lane: Historical district with traditional architecture and shops Jiefang Bridge: Walk across for classic Guilin river views Li River Promenade: Perfect for evening strolls Duxiu Peak: Climb for panoramic city views