Trip Overview
When:July 2020 Duration:5 days Travelers:With friends (和朋友) Budget:Approximately 300 RMB (~43 USD) per person, excluding major tickets Transportation:Local transport and walking
Life is a long journey. Life's stories aren't forever peaceful like calm waters under bright sunshine. I blend confidence, kindness, determination, and regret into my being, walking toward the scenery that belongs to me. I feel like I've walked a simple yet far-reaching path. During this time, I often recall that barren period of the soul, those days of solitude, asking myself repeatedly: if I could, would I seek my present self in the past? Moving forward with pen in hand is my spiritual anchor.
Day 1: Into the Devil's Domain – Camping in the Yardang Landform
We departed at 5 AM on our first day, crossing through the 雅丹 (Yǎdān) – Yardang landform, wind-eroded rock formations that create an otherworldly landscape of bizarre stone shapes. By nightfall, we were camping in the Devil City, and I cannot begin to describe what I experienced that night!
🗺️ What is Yardang?
Yardang (雅丹) is a term from the Uyghur language, originally meaning steep-walled mounds. It refers to a wind-eroded landform found in arid regions, where you can see stones of countless strange shapes.
Why is it called Devil City? The reason lies in the combination of strong winds and the unique terrain structure, which produces sounds like howling wolves. The deep interior of Devil City is a signal-free no-man's land. Trek another 100 kilometers deeper, and you'll reach the Lop Nur, known as the 'Sea of Death.'
🎯 Practical Info
Location: Yardang National Geological Park
Best Time: Sunset and night for camping
Experience: Desert camping under the stars
Note: No mobile signal in remote areas
Day 2: The Soul of China – Mogao Caves
Carrying the anticipation from our first day, we set off early the next morning for what is called the 'Soul of the Nation' – the 莫高窟 (Mògāo Kū) – Mogao Caves, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Before reaching our destination, I purchased a combined ticket online for the Mogao Caves and a local performance for 556 RMB (~79 USD).
The Mogao Caves are hailed as the most valuable cultural discovery of the century, the 'Oriental Louvre,' situated along the Hexi Corridor in 敦煌 (Dūnhuáng) – Dunhuang. They are world-renowned for their exquisite murals and Buddhist statues.
🎯 Practical Info
Entry Fee: Ticket packages vary (A-class ticket ~556 RMB / ~79 USD)
Includes: 8 cave visits with guided tour
Digital Center: Watch introductory films about Mogao Caves
Photography: Strictly prohibited inside caves
Best Time: Morning slots to avoid crowds
My A-class ticket included visits to 8 caves. First, I experienced the digital center, which mainly played films about the Mogao Caves. It felt very immersive, like being in a movie theater. Then I was led into the caves to begin exploring this place of Buddhist art. You cannot use your phone to take photos inside the caves. Coming to this kind of place, I was filled with awe and curiosity. To protect the cultural relics, photography is prohibited in the caves, which actually allows you to better listen to the guide's explanations. This is a must-visit for Dunhuang tourism.
Day 3: Culinary Delights and Desert Spectacle
After resting for a full day, I decided to explore the city's famous snacks and performances. Searching online for local food and shows, I tasted a representative local noodle dish: 驴肉黄面 (Lǘròu Huángmiàn) – donkey meat with yellow noodles.
🍜 Culinary Note
Dish: Donkey meat with yellow noodles (驴肉黄面)
Description: Yellow noodles topped with meat sauce, served with braised donkey meat
Tasting Tip: Dip the donkey meat in the provided sauce – the locals say this is the real highlight!
The noodles are primarily topped with a meat sauce similar to a bolognese. The locals told me the key is to taste the braised donkey meat, which you dip in the sauce provided by the shop. The flavor is truly something else! After all, I'm quite the meat lover.
Checking the guides, I learned there are two local performances: 'Dunhuang Celebration' and 'Encore Dunhuang.' Friends who had been here before recommended 'Dunhuang Celebration,' so I booked the combined ticket with Mogao Caves. It's an open-air performance starting at 9:30 PM daily. During the day, the theater doesn't look like much. According to staff, the show only becomes a visual feast after dark.
Finally, the performance began. Let me slowly describe this visual feast for you.
🎭 The Dunhuang Celebration (敦煌盛典)
Show Time: 9:30 PM daily
Duration: Approximately 75 minutes
Setting: Open-air desert theater with moving seats
Format: 5-act narrative performance
The performance consists of five acts with interconnected storylines. The first act dates back to 138 BC, depicting Zhang Qian's pioneering journey to the Western Regions, opening the Silk Road. The backdrop is the Crescent Moon Spring.
Then, the entire rotating chairs turned toward the second act – city patrol lights, dazzling iron flower fireworks, the glow of the ancient city, the hustle of wine shops, and 3D wall projections. It was a stunning light wall show, all integrated into this open-air performance.
In the fourth act, the seats moved into an enveloping cave setting, where flying apsaras descended from the sky with graceful, beautiful dance movements that captivated the eye.
The finale featured the Crescent Moon Spring as a backdrop, with graceful dancers performing as the moon rose.
Reflections: The Meaning of Travel
The meaning of travel, I suppose, is that the more you record, the more you remember.
Standing at the edge of the desert, watching the sun set behind those ancient wind-sculpted rocks, I realized something profound. We travel not just to see new places, but to be changed by them. Dunhuang has existed for millennia at the crossroads of civilizations, and for five brief days, I was privileged to walk in the footsteps of countless travelers who passed through before – merchants on the Silk Road, monks seeking enlightenment, artists creating timeless masterpieces.
As I sat under the stars that last night, surrounded by friends and the silence of the desert, I understood the truth of the original Chinese title: 'The more places I visit, the fewer landscapes I remember.' It's not about the quantity of sights we collect, but the quality of moments that settle into our souls. And Dunhuang, with its haunting beauty and ancient wisdom, has earned a permanent place in mine.
📍 Quick Reference
Destination: Dunhuang, Gansu Province
Best Season: Spring (April-May) and Autumn (September-October)
Must-Do: Mogao Caves, Yardang landform, Dunhuang Celebration show
Must-Try: Donkey meat yellow noodles, dried fruits, night market snacks
Tip: Book Mogao Caves tickets well in advance – they sell out!