I spent an unforgettable weekend exploring two hidden gems in Beijing's Changping District where ancient village life meets revolutionary history at the foot of the Great Wall. At Changyucheng Village, I watched villagers perform traditional opera (社戏, Shèxì) in a 600-year-old temple theater, devoured a feast of braised pork trotters that literally melted in my mouth, and hiked through birch forests to reach the border marker between Beijing and Hebei with panoramic views of the ancient Yan Dynasty Great Wall. Then at Langeryu Village, I walked in the footsteps of Red Army soldiers on the "mini Long March," explored revolutionary command posts and underground printing factories, and gained a powerful understanding of China's wartime history. This journey perfectly blends cultural immersion, outdoor adventure, and historical discovery—an experience that surprised me with its depth and authenticity, all within easy reach of central Beijing.
Trip Overview
When: September (Autumn is perfect for hiking)
Duration: 2 days
Travelers: With friends
Budget: ~500 RMB (~$70 USD)
Transportation: Private car recommended, or bus from Beijing to Changping
Day 1: Changyucheng Village – Opera, Feasts, and Ancient Walls
When my friends and I set out from Beijing on that crisp September morning, we had no idea what treasures awaited us just two hours northwest of the city. Our destination: Changyucheng Village (长峪城村, Chángyùchéng Cūn), a Ming Dynasty settlement nestled in the mountains at the foot of the Great Wall.
As we approached the village, the urban sprawl melted away, replaced by terraced hillsides and traditional grey-tiled farmhouses. The air immediately felt fresher, cleaner. This was the Beijing I had heard about but rarely experienced—raw, rural, and steeped in history.
A Village Frozen in Time
Changyucheng dates back over 500 years to the Ming Dynasty, and walking through its stone streets, I could feel the weight of that history beneath my feet. The village is split into old and new sections by ancient walls—complete with intact city gates and watchtowers. Local residents still live in traditional courtyard houses, and the pace of life moves to a rhythm that hasn't changed in centuries.
What struck me most was how welcoming the villagers were. As we wandered the narrow alleys, elderly residents sitting in doorways would smile and nod, some even inviting us to peek inside their homes. This wasn't a tourist performance—it was genuine rural hospitality.
The Living Temple: Yongxing Temple and Its Opera Stage
Rising above the village rooftops, a massive tree caught our attention—this marked the location of Yongxing Temple (永兴寺, Yǒngxìng Sì). But this isn't just any temple. Built over 600 years ago during the Ming Dynasty, it contains something truly special: an ancient opera stage where villagers still perform traditional 社戏 (Shèxì, community opera).
As dusk fell and we settled in for dinner at a local farmhouse, we heard drums and gongs echoing through the village. Following the sound, we found ourselves at the temple's courtyard theater, where villagers had gathered for an evening performance. The opera, which evolved from Hebei Bangzi opera, has developed its own unique local style over nearly six centuries.
I sat mesmerized as performers in elaborate costumes sang, danced, and told stories passed down through generations. The audience—mostly local villagers—shouted encouragement and appreciation. This wasn't a show for tourists; this was living culture, performed by and for the community, just as it has been for centuries. I felt incredibly privileged to witness it.
🎭 Practical Info: Village Opera
What: Traditional community opera (社戏, Shèxì) performed at Yongxing Temple When: Usually on weekends and holidays; evening performances around 7 PM Cost: Free to watch Best seats: Arrive early to sit on the stone benches in the courtyard Note: Performances are weather-dependent and scheduled by the village
The Legendary Pork Trotter Feast
No visit to Changyucheng is complete without experiencing the famous 猪蹄宴 (Zhūtí Yàn, Pork Trotter Feast). As the sun set and stars began to appear in the mountain sky—incredibly visible thanks to the minimal light pollution—we gathered around a wooden table at our farmhouse accommodation.
What arrived was a feast fit for emperors. The star dish: braised pork trotters (猪蹄) that had been simmered for hours until the meat was so tender it practically melted in my mouth. The skin was gelatinous and flavorful, the meat underneath succulent and rich. It was served alongside farmhouse braised pork, free-range chicken stew, tofu with cabbage, and a special local delicacy called 拔丝咯吱 (Básī Gēzhi)—crispy fried dough coated in spun sugar.
Between bites, we sipped 黄芩茶 (Huángqín Chá, Baikal skullcap tea), a herbal tea made from mountain herbs hand-collected by villagers. The combination of hearty pork, fragrant tea, and fresh mountain air created a dining experience I'll never forget.
🍽️ Practical Info: Pork Trotter Feast
Cost: ~60 RMB (~$8 USD) per person, all-you-can-eat Where: Any farmhouse restaurant in the village Must-try: Braised pork trotters, 拔丝咯吱 (crispy sugar-coated pastry) Tip: Make reservations in advance, especially on weekends
Day 2: Mountain Hiking – To the Great Wall and Beyond
I woke early the next morning to a sky full of stars—something I rarely see in Beijing. After a simple farmhouse breakfast of mantou (steamed buns) and congee, we set off for the day's adventure: hiking the mountain trail that would take us to ancient Great Wall ruins and the border between Beijing and Hebei Province.
Through Birch Forests and Mountain Meadows
The trail began as a wooden boardwalk winding through the village and gradually ascending into the hills. Soon, the boardwalk gave way to dirt paths as we entered a forest of white birch trees—their pale bark glowing in the morning light. The September air was crisp and cool, perfect for hiking.
The hike is approximately 8 kilometers round trip and takes about 4 hours to complete. The difficulty level is moderate—nothing too technical, but you'll definitely get a workout. The trail is well-marked, and we encountered other hikers along the way, though never so many that it felt crowded.
The Border Marker and Ancient Great Wall
One of the most exciting moments came when we reached the stone marker indicating the border between Beijing and Hebei Province. Standing there, with one foot in each province, we took photos and laughed about straddling two administrative regions.
But the real highlight came next: the ancient Yan Dynasty Great Wall (燕长城), dating back over 2,000 years. This is Beijing's highest and oldest section of Great Wall, and seeing it in its wild, unrestored state gave me chills. The stone foundations and crumbling watchtowers spoke of centuries of history.
At the High Tower Beacon (高楼烽火台), we discovered something deeply moving: this wasn't just an ancient structure, but a battle site from the Second Sino-Japanese War. The crumbling walls bear 108 bullet holes, scars from the fierce Nankou Campaign (南口战役) fought here 80 years ago. Standing among those bullet-riddled stones, I felt a powerful connection to the past and profound respect for those who fought and died here.
From the beacon tower, we had panoramic views of Guanting Reservoir (官厅水库), its blue waters sparkling in the valley below. On a clear day, you can see for miles—mountains, villages, and the sinuous line of the ancient Great Wall snaking across ridges.
There's also a fork in the trail leading to Huanghua Slope (黄花坡), where thousands of yellow flowers bloom in July, creating a spectacular golden carpet across the mountainside. We weren't there during peak bloom, but I can only imagine how stunning it must be.
🥾 Practical Info: Hiking Trail
Distance: ~8 km loop (4 km each way) Duration: 4 hours round trip Difficulty: Moderate (some steep sections) Trail surface: Wooden boardwalk → dirt path → rocky sections Best time: Spring (flowers) or Autumn (foliage) What to bring: Water, snacks, sturdy hiking shoes, sun protection Important: The ancient Great Wall is a protected historical site—do not climb on it Leave no trace: Pack out all trash to preserve the environment
Langeryu Village: Walking the Red Army's Path
After lunch, we drove about an hour deeper into the mountains to our second destination: Langeryu Village (狼儿峪村, Láng'ěryù Cūn). While Changyucheng offers ancient culture and natural beauty, Langeryu provides a different kind of experience—a powerful journey into China's revolutionary history.
Langeryu was a famous "red fortress" (红色堡垒) during the war against Japanese occupation. Walking through this quiet mountain village, with its traditional stone houses and narrow alleys, it was hard to imagine that this peaceful place had once been a hotbed of resistance activity.
The Revolutionary History Exhibition Hall
Our first stop was the Changwan County Revolutionary History Exhibition Hall (昌宛县革命历史展览馆), housed in a restored traditional building. Here, over 200 precious photographs from the war era tell the story of the local resistance movement.
I was particularly struck by the artifacts on display: replica hand grenades, old saddles, bellows for blacksmithing, flint stones, and even underground currency used by the resistance. Each item told a story of hardship, ingenuity, and sacrifice. A professional guide brought the history to life with passionate storytelling, explaining how this remote mountain village became a crucial base for the Red Army.
Walking in Revolutionary Footsteps
To help visitors truly understand the experience, Langeryu offers an immersive activity: the "Mini Long March" (微走长征路). We were given the opportunity to don authentic Eighth Route Army (八路军, Bālùjūn) uniforms—simple olive-green cotton outfits that immediately transported us back to the 1940s.
Walking the narrow village streets in these uniforms, with revolutionary slogans still visible on the weathered walls, I felt an unexpected emotional connection to the past. We visited the site of Nie Rongzhen's Command Post (聂荣臻作战指挥部)—the former headquarters of one of China's most famous military commanders. The simple stone building, with its crude wooden furniture and maps pinned to the walls, gave me a visceral sense of the harsh conditions these fighters endured.
We also saw the underground printing factory (地下印刷厂)—a hidden chamber where resistance newspapers and propaganda were produced under the noses of occupying forces. The ingenuity required to maintain this secret operation in such a remote location was remarkable.
After our village tour, we hiked the "Mini Long March" trail—a 2.5-kilometer path through the mountains that simulates portions of the actual Long March route. While nowhere near as arduous as the real thing, hiking in period costume through forested hills gave me a small taste of what those soldiers must have experienced.
The experience concluded with a traditional revolutionary storytelling session (红色评书, Hóngsè Píngshū)—a form of Chinese oral storytelling where a performer narrates tales of heroic resistance fighters. Even though I couldn't understand every word, the performer's passion and the audience's rapt attention conveyed the power of these stories.
🏛️ Practical Info: Langeryu Village
Distance from Beijing: ~70 km (1.5 hours by car) Exhibition hall: Free entry Mini Long March hike: 2.5 km, moderate difficulty Costume rental: Included in group tours or small fee for individuals Best for: History enthusiasts, educational trips, families Local specialty: Walnuts and walnut porridge (核桃粥)
Quick Reference Guide
Two-Day Itinerary
Day 1: Morning drive to Langeryu Village → Revolutionary exhibition hall → Mini Long March hike → Lunch → Drive to Changyucheng Village → Explore village → Pork trotter feast dinner → Evening opera performance → Overnight in village farmhouse
Day 2: Farmhouse breakfast → Hiking trail to Great Wall → Border marker → Return to village → Lunch → Drive back to Beijing
Transportation
By car: Most convenient option (~2 hours from central Beijing)
By bus: Take subway to Changping, then bus to Liucun, then local transport (more complicated but doable)
Accommodation
Changyucheng Village has basic farmhouse accommodations (~100-200 RMB per night). Langeryu has very limited lodging options. For comfort, plan this as a day trip or stay in Changyucheng.
What to Pack
Sturdy hiking shoes with good grip Layers (mountain weather can change quickly) Sun protection (hat, sunscreen, sunglasses) Basic first aid kit Cash (villages may not accept mobile payments) Toiletries and towel (farmhouse accommodations are basic)
Best Time to Visit
Spring (April-May): Wildflowers, mild temperatures
Autumn (September-October): Fall foliage, crisp air, best hiking weather
Summer: Green mountains but can be hot and humid
Winter: Snow-covered landscapes but some facilities may be closed
Useful Phrases
你好 (Nǐ hǎo) - Hello 谢谢 (Xièxiè) - Thank you 多少钱 (Duōshao qián?) - How much? 请问厕所在哪里？(Qǐngwèn cèsuǒ zài nǎlǐ?) - Excuse me, where is the bathroom? 长峪城村 (Chángyùchéng Cūn) - Changyucheng Village 狼儿峪村 (Láng'ěryù Cūn) - Langeryu Village
Final Thoughts
This weekend getaway exceeded all my expectations. Changyucheng offered me a window into a disappearing way of life—ancient villages where traditions survive not as museum pieces but as living culture. Watching the village opera, feasting on pork trotters with local families, and hiking to ancient Great Wall ruins gave me experiences that felt authentic and meaningful.
Langeryu, meanwhile, challenged my understanding of Chinese history. Walking in the footsteps of resistance fighters, wearing their uniforms, and hearing their stories transformed abstract historical facts into emotional, personal truths. I left with a profound respect for the sacrifices made by ordinary people in extraordinary circumstances.
If you're visiting Beijing and want to escape the tourist crowds of the Forbidden City and Great Wall tourist sections, make the journey to these villages. They're not just destinations—they're portals to different times and different worlds, conveniently located just a couple of hours from the capital. This is the China that guidebooks rarely mention, but that every traveler should experience.