Trip Overview
When: September (best time to see autumn colors is mid-October to early November)
Duration: 2 days
Travelers: With friends
Budget: ~500 RMB (~$70 USD)
Transportation: Subway + taxi
Getting There
Reaching Pofengling (坡峰岭) from Beijing is surprisingly easy despite the seemingly complex transfer. Take Line 1 to Military Museum Station (军事博物馆站), then transfer to Line 9 at Guogongzhuang Station (郭公庄站), continue to Yanzhuang East Station (阎村东站) on the Fangshan Line, and finally transfer to the Yanfang Line to reach Fangshan Chengguang Station (房山城关站). The whole transfer is remarkably smooth—most lines connect at starting stations, meaning you'll likely get a seat, and the transfers themselves require just a few steps across the platform rather than long winding corridors. From the station, a taxi costs about 40 RMB to reach the scenic area.
Day 1: Arrival and Homestay Experience
We stayed at Huanglu Huakai Homestay (黄栌花开), located about 2 kilometers from the mountain. As soon as we pulled into the parking lot, a friendly local大姐 (sister) greeted us and led us to Courtyard No. 5—my favorite, and where I always stay when visiting.
The courtyard features three bedrooms, a living room, and a kitchen—comfortably sleeping seven people including extra floor mats. The rooms come fully equipped with toiletries, so there's no need to bring your own.
Check-in starts at 2 PM, and a delightful afternoon tea was already prepared—强烈推荐 (highly recommend) the sweet corn, paired perfectly with a refreshing cup of mint tea. Sitting in the afternoon sun, absolutely still in that moment, I felt like I'd found the secret to happiness.
Pro tip: Book this homestay in advance during peak season—they're extremely popular!
Day 2: Hiking Pofengling
After a relaxing afternoon break, we headed up the mountain—the timing is perfect because the midday sun has faded, and most tourists are already heading down. This means you have the red leaf sea mostly to yourself for photos!
By now, the smoke tree (黄栌) leaves have transformed completely from their summer appearance. Each leaf has become a little精灵 (elf) in the mountains, releasing their vibrant colors to create the most beautiful autumn scenery. The大片 (vast areas) of red and yellow are so passionate, so unrestrained, while the green peeking through the dense forest feels so natural and peaceful.
Elevation and Trail Info: Pofengling has a gentle elevation gain with manageable slopes. The stone steps are marked with distance markers every section. Starting from 0 meters at the base, the Cloud Stone House (云上石屋) peak is at 600 meters, the famous Smoke Tree King (黄栌王) is at 1,700 meters, and Eagle Rock (鹰嘴岩) is even higher. Despite visiting several times, I've never completed the entire trail—my highest point was 2,500 meters. Due to varying altitudes, the leaves turn red at different rates—higher up means more red!
Foreigner tip: Wear appropriate shoes—the trails are easy, but you'll appreciate good footwear on the uneven steps. Surprisingly, many visitors attempt the hike in high heels!
Hidden Gem: The Suspension Bridge
I highly recommend a secret spot at the top of Cloud Stone House—there's a small suspension bridge. The aerial photography perspective is amazing! Try to arrive very early in the morning or around 4 PM when fewer people cross the bridge.
Where to Eat
Food options are available at the mountain entrance and below in the village. You'll find grilled corn, pancakes, stinky tofu, and tripe (爆肚儿) snacks, plus mountain produce like jujube dates and persimmon cake (柿饼) to take home.
Restaurant Recommendation: Red Backpack Restaurant (红色背篓餐厅)
Must-try dishes: Heluo noodles (饸饹面), wild mountain vegetable buns (山野菜包子), freshly ground soybean milk (现磨豆浆), and oil chicken (油鸡)—delicious and great value!
Price: About 40 RMB per person (~$5.50 USD)
Evening Special: Earthen Pot feast
As the weather cools and nights draw in earlier, don't miss the earthen pot feast (土盆锅)—tofu on top, dried beans and vegetables below, with additional dipping vegetables available once you've finished. It's absolutely delicious! The auntie's hand-rolled noodles are also top-notch. In these slightly chilly autumn evenings, this pot warms you from the inside out.
Visitor Information
Red Leaf Festival Period: October 1 - November 15 (2018 dates—check current schedule)
Address: Pofengling Scenic Area, Huangshandian Village, Zhoukoudian Town, Fangshan District, Beijing (北京房山区周口店镇黄山店村坡峰岭景区)
Tickets:
- Adults: 50 RMB per person
- Seniors (65+), students (with valid ID), active military (with ID): 25 RMB (half price)
- Children under 1.2 meters: Free
Transportation Options
By Car: Navigate to "Pofengling Scenic Area"—very convenient. About 55 km from Beijing's Liuliqiao area. Parking available.
By Bus: Take Line 917 from Liuliqiao, transfer to Room 32 (房32路) to Huangshandian Village entrance.
First/last bus schedule:
Sima Gou (泗马沟) - Zhoukoudian Passenger Station: 05:30 - 19:30
Zhoukoudian Passenger Station - Sima Gou: 05:30 - 19:30
Subway + Taxi (Recommended):
Line 9 (Guogongzhuang) → Fangshan Line (Yanzhuang East) → Yanfang Line (Fangshan Chengguang). Super convenient transfers—just walk a few steps across the platform. Taxi from the station to Pofengling is about 40 RMB.