Trip Overview
When: October (autumn, best weather for sightseeing)
Duration: 9 days
Travelers: Group of friends
Budget: ~2,700 RMB (~$390 USD) per person
Transportation: Flight from Guangzhou, train, local buses
Essential Foreigner Info
Getting There: Fly into Zhengzhou Xinzheng International Airport (郑州新郑机场), then take intercity trains to Kaifeng (开封) or Luoyang (洛阳). High-speed trains are fast and comfortable.
Money Matters: Most places accept WeChat Pay and Alipay, but carry some cash for small vendors and temples. ATM availability is good in city centers.
Language: English is limited outside major hotels. Learn key phrases or use a translation app. Hotel staff and younger locals often have basic English.
Transportation: Trains between cities are cheap and efficient. Within cities, use Didi (Chinese Uber) or taxis. For Laojun Mountain (老君山), book a local tour or taxi in advance.
Best Time: October-November offers pleasant weather and beautiful autumn scenery, especially at Laojun Mountain where early snow creates stunning winter landscapes.
Day 1-2: Arrival in Kaifeng
After flying into Zhengzhou from Guangzhou, I took an intercity train to Kaifeng (开封)—the ancient capital of eight dynasties. This city literally breathes history, with temples from Buddhism, Islam, and Christianity all within a 2-kilometer radius. That's rare anywhere in the world!
Kaifeng (开封): Known as the 'City of Eight Dynasties,' Kaifeng was the capital during the Northern Song Dynasty, one of China's most prosperous periods. The city preserves layers of history in its ancient streets and temples.
Daxiang Temple (大相国寺): A historic Buddhist temple founded in 555 AD, famous for its giant bronze bell. The temple's architecture and atmosphere offer a glimpse into ancient Chinese religious practice.
Kaifeng Prefecture (开封府): The historical government office of Kaifeng, similar to what you might imagine as a medieval city hall. Reconstructed to show what imperial Chinese administration looked like.
Local Food Highlight: Don't miss the Shui Ji Beef Soup and Pancakes (水记牛肉泡馍) at a Muslim restaurant near East Grand Mosque (东大寺). The beef broth is rich, and the torn pancake pieces soak up the flavor perfectly. About 25-30 RMB per bowl.
Day 3: Kaifeng Ancient City Wall and Iron Pagoda
Day three was all about exploring Kaifeng's ancient city wall, the Iron Pagoda (铁塔), and the Kaifeng Museum.
Iron Pagoda (铁塔): Built in 1049 AD during the Song Dynasty, this 55-meter tower is made of glazed bricks that shimmer in sunlight. Despite its name, it's not iron—it's called 'Iron' because the dark bricks looked iron-like to observers. The elaborate brick patterns include flying apsaras, lions, and musicians. Over 900 years old!
Shuanglong Alley (双龙巷): This narrow alley produced two emperors during the Song Dynasty—hence the name 'Double Dragon.' Walking here feels like stepping back into imperial times.
Fan Pagoda (繁塔): The oldest structure in Kaifeng, originally built with nine stories. Due to historical 'feng shui' concerns (local officials feared the tower's height would bring bad luck to the city), two-thirds of it was destroyed, leaving today's three-story version. A fascinating story of how superstition shaped a city's skyline.
Shanxi-Gansu-Guangdong Guild Hall (山陕甘会馆): A beautifully preserved guild hall from the Qing Dynasty, featuring exquisite wood carvings—particularly the 'Two Dragons Playing with a Pearl' and 'Phoenix and Peony' sculptures under the main hall's eaves. The craftsmanship is outstanding.
Kaifeng Museum (开封博物馆): The highlight here is the animated version of 'Along the River During the Qingming Festival' (清明上河图)—a famous Song Dynasty painting showing daily life in Kaifeng. It was fascinating to discover that food delivery services existed even in ancient China!
Day 4-5: Laojun Mountain (老君山)
Leaving Kaifeng, I took a train to Luoyang, then a bus to Luanchuan County (栾川县) to reach Laojun Mountain—the mountain where Taoism's founder Laozi is said to have taught.
Laojun Mountain (老君山): Also known as 'King of Taoist Mountains,' this 2,200-meter peak in Henan Province is one of the most sacred Taoist sites in China. The mountain features the 'Ten Miles Painting Screen' (十里画屏) cliffside walkway—an absolutely stunning trail.
My Route: Yunjing Cable Car (云景索道) up → Fenglin Cable Car (峰林索道) up → Ten Miles Painting Screen (十里画屏) → Mazong Ridge (马鬃岭) → Glass Viewing Platform (玻璃观景台) → South Gate of Heaven (南天门) → 66 Steps → Golden Palace Temple Group (金殿道观群) → Descent.
Reality Check: Snow had fallen on the mountain the night before our visit, creating an unexpected winter wonderland! The ice-covered trees and mist created a magical 'Silver World' (雾凇) that made the challenging climb absolutely worth it. If you visit in late October or November, check the weather forecast—you might get lucky like we did!
Senior Alert: The cable cars make the summit accessible, but the 'Ten Miles Painting Screen' walkway has some steep sections. Comfortable hiking shoes are essential. The 66 steps to the Golden Palace are particularly challenging.
Day 6-7: Luoyang—Thirteen Dynasties of Glory
Luoyang (洛阳) served as capital for thirteen different dynasties over 1,500 years. This is Chinese history compressed into one city.
Longmen Grottoes (龙门石窟): One of China's four great grottoes (along with Dunhuang, Yungang, and Cloud Mountain), these caves contain over 100,000 Buddhist statues carved into cliffs along the Yi River. The largest statue is the massive Vairocana Buddha—over 17 meters tall. Each cave tells a story of imperial patronage and Buddhist devotion. The scale is breathtaking.
Guanlin Temple (关林庙): Where Guan Yu (the legendary 'God of War' from the Three Kingdoms period) was buried. It's one of only three temples in China dedicated to Guan Yu where both his spirit and tomb are honored. The architecture features traditional Chinese temple layouts with elaborate stone carvings.
Luoyi Ancient City (洛邑古城): The old town of Luoyang, with文峰塔 (Wenfeng Pagoda), the Henan Provincial Confucian Temple, and sections of Ming Dynasty city walls. At night, the illuminated buildings create a magical atmosphere—some say even more beautiful than daytime!
Lijing Gate (丽景门): The 'must-visit' landmark of Luoyang, though honestly, it felt a bit touristy compared to the authentic historical sites. Still, the gate is iconic and worth a quick photo stop.
Day 8: White Horse Temple and Luoyang Museum
My final full day in Luoyang.
White Horse Temple (白马寺): Known as the 'First Temple of China,' White Horse Temple was founded in 68 AD—the oldest temple in China still at its original location. It was named after the white horses that carried Buddhist scriptures from India. The current structures are from Tang, Yuan, Ming, and Qing Dynasty reconstructions—original Tang Dynasty architecture is rare!
Luoyang Museum (洛阳博物馆): Ranking fourth among China's provincial museums (after Beijing, Nanjing, and the Palace Museum), this is a MUST-VISIT. The collection is extensive—you'll need half a day minimum. Key exhibits include:
• Three-Color Glazed Black Horse (唐代三彩黑釉马)—a stunning Tang Dynasty ceramic
• Bronze Cup from the Xia Dynasty (夏代乳钉纹铜爵)—over 4,000 years old
• White Jade Cup from Cao Wei (曹魏白玉杯)—elegant simplicity
• Gold-Wooden Pagoda from Qing Dynasty (清代金丝楠木塔)—intricate craftsmanship
• Stone Qilin from Eastern Han (东汉石辟邪)—mythical creature sculpture
Reality Check: The museum is massive. Wear comfortable shoes and plan for at least 3-4 hours. The exhibits span thousands of years of Chinese civilization—you'll leave with a deep appreciation for Luoyang's historical significance.
Day 9: Sui-Tang Luoyang Heritage Park and Departure
My final morning in Luoyang. News reports about COVID-19 restrictions in northwest China prompted me to wrap up the trip earlier than planned.
Sui-Tang Luoyang Heritage Park (隋唐洛阳城国家遗址公园): This park recreates the glory of the Sui and Tang Dynasty capital. Key sites include:
• Yingtian Gate (应天门): The main gate of the palace complex, where Empress Wu Zetian held court. The reconstructed gate is imposing and offers great views.
• Mingtang (明堂): The 'Hall of Light,' originally built by Wu Zetian as her audience chamber. The modern reconstruction is grand.
• Tiantang (天堂): The 'Heavenly Palace,' a Buddhist temple that was once the tallest building in ancient Luoyang.
Pro Tip: Visit in the evening when the buildings are illuminated. The golden lights against the night sky create a mystical, almost timeless atmosphere—you can almost imagine the grandeur of the Tang Dynasty capital.
Trip Summary: This 9-day journey through Kaifeng and Luoyang was a deep dive into Chinese civilization. From the eight-dynasty history of Kaifeng to the snow-covered peaks of Laojun Mountain and the imperial grandeur of Luoyang, every day brought new discoveries. The best part? Traveling with friends who share your sense of adventure—even when unexpected snow turns a mountain hike into a winter expedition!